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on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have
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check with us for current pricing and availability.
January/February 2009
Perrin
Côtes du Rhône Réserve 2006
These guys know how to make a great Rhône. Let's just get out of the
way. A bargain from the brothers who make the legendary Beaucastel
Chateauneuf du Pape, this is textbook Côtes du Rhône: mouth-filling
Grenache flavors with a dose of earthy spice, all for a price that
reflects the Rhône's reputation as a well of excellent-value wines.
Candied strawberry aromatics are followed by darker bass notes of black
raspberry and wild herb spice with chewy yet yielding tannins on the
finish. $9.99
Quattro Mani Montelpulciano 2007
The new vintage of this early summer favorite is darker and meatier,
perfect for the remaining winter months. As the sun's rays linger
longer into the evening, I've been craving more wines like this:
medium-bodied and oddly refreshing, with its tart cherry, mild meaty
spice and mocha notes. Big hearty reds are great, sure, but sometimes a
wine with an easy-going personality and seeming insouciance brings a
breath of fresh air and signifies that change is around the corner.
Change of seasons, change of menus, change of whatever, it's sure
refreshing. $9.99
Colosi Nero d'Avola 2006
Even at a slightly higher price, the new vintage of this Italian
favorite is hard to beat. Our favorite Sicilian red is back and wow,
I forgot how good this wine is. When tasting wines for the newsletter,
there are many "no!" bottles, several "yes!" bottles, and very few "yes!
yes!" bottles. This 'yes! yes!" bottle has an intensity and depth rarely
found in this price range. Loaded with juicy plum and millions of
cherries dusted with cocoa powder, this is smooth and long on the palate
ending with fine tannins on the lively finish. Medium-weight yet packed
with flavor, this would be a joy to drink with many a meal. $11.99
Foris Fly Over Red 2002
Even though we just featured it in December, it was a huge hit. Might
as well run with it while it's still available. Back from its visit
to wonderland, this 2002 Cab-based blend from southern Oregon is finally
ready for sale. Thankfully time has been kind to this wine, having
slowly revealed the layers of flavor that must have been shrouded in a
tannic haze in its youth. Long on the palate and developed in flavor,
the juicy Merlot balances the Cab Sauv richness while 15% Cab Franc adds
depth and aromatics. This well-aged multifaceted red is a bargain at
$9.99.
Monte Oton Grenache 2007
Move over, Fuego, we've got a new under $10 Spanish Grenache favorite
and this is it. Another eminently drinkable Spanish Grenache from
importer Jorge Ordonez and Borsao (who produces shop fave Tres Picos)
whose flavors and value mimic the legendary Fuego Garnacha.
Medium-weight and sappy smooth, the ripe cherry fruit is shot through
with peppery smoky briary notes and the finish is surprisingly long.
It's tough to beat the Spaniards when it comes to value. $8.99
Loredona Pinot Grigio 2006
Folks loved this idiosyncratic white and you can't beat the price for
good Pinot Gris. This Californian Pinot Grigio is wildly fragrant
with Muscat floral notes floating above the apricot, melon and pear. All
this light fruitiness however turns dry, rich and fleshy on the palate
where its flavors are amped up by a kiss of salty tang. Ah, the secret
ingredient to everything. Surprisingly good for Pinot Gris (from
California!), just don't read the back label. $9.99
Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda 2007
This new vintage is even juicier than the 2006 and for now, it's even
a dollar cheaper! A relative to Piedmont's Dolcetto that colonized
Argentina like a tribe of jackrabbits, Bonarda is more widely planted
than Malbec but remains less well-known. The locals love it for its
idiot-proof quaffability, and here is a good example. With ripe berry
and mocha flavors, this is invertebrate-smooth, medium-weight and juicy
with enough jazzy acidity and wispy tannins to avoid an all-out fruit
pie. Perfect for casual partying, it goes down great with grilled
rabbit. $7.99
Cave de Saumur Chenin Blanc 2007
Slightly suprising hit from the summer, this turned many on to the
subtle charms of French Chenin Blanc. This lovely Chenin from
France's Loire Valley displays the elegance and easy charm that is so
typically French. Floral honeyed notes, crisp apple, tangy peach, and
lemon zest are all balanced in a dry airy style. $9.99
Andeluna Torrontes 2007
Turned on by Torrontes, that's what we are. Such a cool white wine
for the money. Plenty of Portlanders woke up to the joy of Torrontes
this summer as Katherine Cole's article (and several tastings here)
spurred people to try this relative newbie. We did a mini Torrontes
taste-off to see how they stacked up. Some were intriguingly vermouth-y,
but too much so and others took the trademark floral perfume a bit too
far. The Andeluna settled comfortably in the middle; sure it offers the
classic heady perfume and mild herb notes but does it in an elegant
restrained manner with spikes of orange zest and a wonderfully balanced
texture. $9.99
Now and Zen Alsatian White 2006
This suggested that Alsatian whites would be much more popular if
there were more values like this. The name and label are all
marketing but the wine in the bottle is true Alsatian. A four-varietal
blend that tastes as it should and actually even better than expected.
Dry overall, the honeyed richness of the fruit is balanced by an
underlying acidity. With notes of dried flowers, lemon curd and peach
pie, this is way interesting for the price and will do wonders on the
Thanksgiving table. $9.99
Quinta da Espiga 2007
A Portuguese favorite that still bewilders with its incredible
price-to-quality ratio. $8? Really, all you want is $8 for this
delicious, complex, polished, balanced bottle of wine? We've been happy
with this wine before but this new vintage, really, how do they do it?
It's lip-smackingly juicy but not simple; it's light on its feet
(mid-weight) but offers a substantial mouth-feel; it has red fruits and
black, cocoa and Asian spices but all in harmony. $8? Cool.
Casa Gualda Tempranillo C&J 2004
The one traditional newbie. Many of you are familiar with the
regular Casa Gualda Tempranillo as it is glass-poured around town and
Matt Kramer seems to write it up every few months. The C&J is their
reserve bottling and offers all the goodies of the regular but with more
punch, richness, complexity and polish. Normally $15, this month only
$10.99.
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March 2009
Las
Rocas Garnacha 2006
A distributor-change price reduction makes this an even better deal
than it already was. 91 points from Parker's Wine Advocate who says
"[this] is dark crimson-colored with an alluring nose of spice box,
mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Smooth-textured, round, and
with no hard edges, this tasty effort is designed for immediate
gratification." $9.99 (regularly $13)
Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Palate need to be jolted out of hibernation? Looking to put a little
spring in your step? This lemonfest Sauv Blanc is sure to do the trick.
Zippy, lively and many other synonyms, all this raciness is deftly
balanced by a mango-tinged plush-ness. $9.99
Grilos Dao 2006
We keep getting turned on to these cool Portuguese reds that offer a
little bit of everything for a ridiculously low price. Like this one:
fragrant with violets and iris, it starts out pretty and elegant and the
tangy red berry fruit is long and juicy. Midway, it turns darker with a
smoky note and a kiss of Old World tannins. $9.99
Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet 2007
Maybe it's too early to pump up one of our favorite summer white
categories but this newly available Languedoc white brings the total of
Picpoul choices in Portland to around six overall, certainly a cause for
celebration. Offering the varietal's trademark lively acidity, white
peach fruit and chalky tang, this version seems a little richer and
fuller on the palate than many others making it an excellent
transitional white (winter to spring). $9.99
Semeli Mountain Sun Red 2005
An undervalued gem from the wilds of Greece that could be twice the
price if from a better-known region. 100% Aghiorgitiko (a varietal
that's on the tip of everyone's tongue these days, right?) from the
Peloponnese, this is reminiscent of a meaty Rhône: wild red and black
berry fruit, spicy herb aromatics and a slight gamy note hang on a firm
backbone of minerality. For as rustic as that all sounds, it's
ultimately pretty polished and finely crafted. $9.99
Feudo Arancio Grillo 2006
A cool Sicilian white varietal that is rarely seen in Portland, this
offers a wealth of subtle aromatics and flavors yet stays focused and
refreshing. Baking brioche, toasted nuts, lemon curd and mild herbs all
make an appearance and the texture is smooth and generous. $8.99
Gougenheim Malbec 2007
One of our best-selling Argentine Malbecs has changed vintages and
thankfully they didn't screw it up. Admired for its dark fruit profile
and dusky spice, this new vintage keeps it solid, even upping the ante a
bit; baking spices, vanilla oak notes, and a sappy shot of red fruit on
top of the smooth darkness below make this may even be better than the
2006. $10.99
Castillo de Fuendejalon 2005
A Grenache-Tempranillo blend that is rich and mouth-filling but offers
a surprising array of old school Rioja-like secondary flavors to play
off the dark earthy fruit. Tobacco, leather, wood smoke and dried fruit
may not sound like something you want in your wine but in this case...
$7.99
L'Ameillaud Vaucluse 2007
We've been working with this wine since at least the 1998 vintage and
with a couple of exceptions, the quality has increased every vintage.
True, the Rhône has had a stretch of excellent vintages (especially
2007) but what's in this bottle seems much too good and serious to be a
humble vin de pays. With classic Rhône flavors of floral garrigue spice
and chewy dark fruit, this once again over-delivers for the price. $8.99
Ruffino Pinot Grigio 2006
Lots of flavor and flesh here especially considering what's typical at
this price. Smooth and roundly textured, the notes of honey and ripe
melon add richness and contrast to the background of clean dry grapey
fruit. $9.99
Il Monili Sangiovese 2007
Sangiovese from southern Italy's Puglia region and you can taste the
sun's heat. Soft and darkly fruity, there's an earthy wildness creeping
around the edges of the ripe fruit. Not as bright as a typical Chianti
but it offers a nice hearty mouthful of wine as we ride out winter's
last gasps. $7.50
Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Big cabby blackberry fruit, seductive oaky vanilla notes, and a beefy
muscular frame made this the winner out of all the recent inexpensive
Cabs that have come our way. I left some in a glass and it actually got
better as it opened up, something not many in this price range can
claim. $8.50
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April 2009
Corsini Matot 2007
This blend of Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo offers a true taste of
Piedmont in a juicy and accessible style for a fraction of the price of
most of the region's wines. Bursting with black licorice, tangy wild
marionberry and whiffs of mocha, this excites the palate with its
jump-off-your-tongue liveliness but there's enough wet earth notes and
gently yielding grip on the finish to keep it real. $9.99
Selbach Riesling 2007
Built for spring in so many ways from Easter brunch to
can't-wait-for-summer picnic forays, this is classically-styled Riesling
from a master. Clean, fresh, and lively, the lemon-lime flowery fruit
gives a shock of energy to the palate and the lower-than-normal alcohol
won't slow you down. If you drink it before noon, consider it a
breakfast juice; quenching your thirst while gardening, it's like a
Sprite; in the evening, pair with spicy Thai or Indian food and watch as
its flavors come alive. $9.99
Greenstone Point Sauv. Blanc 2007
Marlborough New Zealand Sauv Blanc at its finest (for the money,
anyway). Limey, grassy and herbal, the fleshy tropical fruit finishes
with an intriguing quinine note. All you need now is a shot of gin.
$9.99
Deloach Zinfandel 2006
It's almost BBQ weather, time to break out some Zin. From a grand old
name in Zinfandel, this opens with hard candy cherry aromatics that
continue through on the lively zesty palate. $9.99
Wrongo Dongo 2007
This oddly named Spanish red is the baby brother to the very popular
Juan Gil Jumilla. Although also 100% Mourvedre, it is clearly made in a
more accessible, juicer, less serious style. Like a shadow on the wall,
this still betrays its varietal and tastes like a paler, more juvenile
version of its older sibling. Nothing wrong with that since the Juan Gil
is rocking. Floral violet aromatics, juicy tangy berry and yearnings of
mineral and earth make for pleasant yet not uninteresting drinking.
$9.50
Montecillo Rioja Crianza 2005
March's featured Rondan Reserva 2001 generated lots of excitement for
Rioja; keeping our eyes open for similar beauties landed us here.
Montecillo is a big producer but the winemaker in charge has been there
seemingly since wine was invented. Montecillo's style is consistent and
winning, and the winery's size allows for some great pricing. This '05
Crianza (Crianza = two years before release, minimum one year in oak
cask) hits the mid style perfectly offering traditional notes of dried
fruits, cedary sandalwood, coffee and tobacco without being dried out,
washed up, flat and blasé. (Sadly we taste too many like that). Taut,
sturdy, smooth, possessed of depth of character and only $9.99
J. Lohr Valdiguie 2008
"This wine makes you happy" is as apt a description as any. A dead
ringer for high-quality Beaujolais, upon tasting this you can get a
sense of how appealing Beaujolais must have been to the palate back in
the day when almost all French red wines started their lives tannic and
astringent (i.e., before technology allowed even Bordeaux to be
enjoyable almost immediately). Fleshy, juicy and soft but with a
tantalizingly refreshing acidity, the aromatics are captivating and
speak of spring flowers and fields in bloom (minus the allergies).
Medium-weight, light on its feet and supple, the wild berry/boysenberry
fruit is ripely tart and invigorating. $9.50
Waldshutz GV Gruner Veltliner 2007
A new contestant in the 1 Liter Gruner category, this comes armed with
nice richness and complexity in addition to the expected citrus fruit
salad sprinkled with white pepper. Decidedly dry with mild yeasty nutty
notes and flavors of ripe red apples and tangerines. $9.99
Col de Vents Corbieres 2007
A Languedoc red that lends a rustic country-ish edge to this month's
case without tasting completely like an old leather glove. Wild berry
and notes of underbrush are a great complement to the season's first
grilled lamb burger. $9.99
Colores del Sol Malbec 2008
A brand new project from the Aussies at Penfold's (yes, Aussies in
Argentina; sounds like a movie) and they're not messing around.
Well-developed and offering an array of likable characteristics, the
flavors are smooth broad and long on the palate. The lushness is
immediately followed by a gentle grip and the fragrant crushed red and
black berry fruit is accented with just the right amount of vanilla and
spice. $9.99
Ferraton Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007
There seems to be a lot of Rhone white in Portland all of a sudden and
this one in particular caught our eye. High-toned and lively, the fruit
runs the gamut from orange zest and lemon to lusher more tropical
flavors. Dry and fleshy, serve with baked fish or pasta primavera.
$10.99
Delas Cotes du Ventoux 2007
Can't stay away from these '07 Rhones, I tell you. The Delas has become
a shelf mainstay and after doing two short stints as a substitute in the
Case of the Month (when a distributor shorted us for a few days), we
figured it had earned its stripes and deserved a place at the table. As
beguiling as a $9 wine can be, this has the nervy intensity and
vivacious personality of the 07 vintage and should please both the Rhone
neophyte and old dog alike. Mid-weight and juicy, the bright peppery
strawberry fruit is underscored by darker chewier cherry notes. $8.99
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May 2009
Viridian Pinot Noir Oregon 2006
To borrow an old exhortation from Robert Parker "run, don't walk" to
snap up some of this, the rarest of wine deals: good Oregon Pinot Noir
for just over ten bucks. I know, you're thinking "how good could it be?
If it were that good, they'd charge more." Well, that's a long story but
the short story is this: it's dark and rich (courtesy of the ripe 2006
vintage) and the juicy black cherry fruit has enough peppery spice and
acidity to keep it lively. Suspicious because of its price, we tasted it
five times in a row looking for flaws but found none. We suggest further
rigorous study by all of you just to make sure. A good Oregon Pinot Noir
priced for daily drinking? Come on down! $11.99
Mandarossa Fiano 2007
Kudos to Sicily for offering up so many case-o-month winners lately:
Colosi Nero d'Avola, Arancio Grillo, and now this. Fiano is one of
southern Italy's prized white varietals and usually does not come
cheaply. Mandarossa is the second label of Sicily's top estate, Planeta,
and its whole raison d'être is good wine done cheaply. Kudos to you,
Planeta! With flavors falling somewhere between a Viognier and pineapple
juice (is this big island Sicily or Hawaii?), this is medium to
full-bodied, lush yet balanced by good acidity with layers of tropical
fruit, creamed lemon, and yes, pineapple. Perfect for spring brunches
(Mother's Day will soon be here) or festive cocktail hour with friends.
$8.99
Maison L'Aiglon St. Chinian 2007
A classic southern French country wine that despite its humble
rustic provenance has enough self-respect to clean itself up and show
some elegance and class. With pretty floral aromatics of roses and
violets, the juicy red berry-tinged fruit has just the right amount of
dried herb and dusty tannins to be considered authentique without
scaring off the tourists. $9.99
Bob's African Cabernet-Shiraz 2005
One has to give Bob Lynde credit: he flies to South Africa to make wine,
returns to the States to sell it (inexpensively) and often donates $1 of
every bottle sale to Mercy Corps or other worthy charities. We like to
support such altruism and luckily the wine is good to boot. This blend
is fleshy and broad-shouldered, soft and easy-going with just a touch of
tannin on the finish. Black plum mixes with wild berry and a bit of
earthy spice - classic South Africa. $9.99
Evodia Old Vine Grenache 2007
Boasting the sexiest case-o-month label we've seen in a long time,
luckily the silky suavity follows through with the wine. Pretty and
demure, the smoky cherry fruit is medium weight and smooth with
occasional outbursts of chewy meatiness and savory herbal spice, as a
reminder that this cute little kitty still has claws. $9.99
Dry Creek Fumé Blanc 2007
Most California Sauvignon Blanc have an identity crisis. Either they are
trying to be a Chardonnay or they are desperately trying to pass
themselves off as a non-Californian Sauvignon Blanc. This has settled
comfortably in between. It wears its "Fumé" label proudly (most don't
anymore) but offers plenty of fresh grassy and green tea notes to mimic
Sauvignon from someplace else. Fleshy, round, and sassy, this doesn't
take itself as seriously as a typical Napa Sauvignon Blanc and thank God
for that. It's cheaper, more fun to drink, and gives you the opportunity
to say "Foo-may" over and over again without being called a fool. $9.99
Zellina Pinot Grigio 2007
I figured we should jump on this before Murray drinks it all at
Nostrana's happy hour. A favorite "by the glass" option at many of
Portland's savvy restaurants, with good reason. Deemed "the perfect
cheap grigio" by one drinker, this is light fresh and creamy with pretty
floral notes and a kick of citrus. $8.99
Di Majo Norante Sangiovese 2007
A perennial crowd-pleaser and perennial best buy, we recently tasted
this new vintage and were reminded why. The talented scribe Robert
Parker sums it up nicely: "[This] is made in a super-ripe, racy style,
with plenty of forward, plump fruit. In the glass, notes of earthiness,
spices and tobacco emerge, adding further complexity. I loved this
soft-textured Sangiovese for its sheer appeal." Sheer appeal, I like
that. $9.99
Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc 2007
A fruity and succulent version of this versatile Loire Valley varietal
that mixes bright lime zest notes and honeyed pear. Offering both an
ample fruitiness and refreshingly crisp acidity, this is a perfect match
for spicy Asian cuisine, something the folks at Pacific Rim (hint hint)
hope you remember. $9.99
Vaca Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
A new Cali Cab from just outside of Napa, this dark lush beast gets a
steroid boost from a good dose of Syrah (20% to be exact). Nothing wrong
with that as this drinks like wines priced much higher. Polished smooth
black fruit, caramel and toast, it packs the punch one looks for in
California Cab...and then some. $10.99
Vistalba Corte C Malbec-Merlot 2006
With a complexity and depth uncommon for this price range, this new
vintage jazzes up the Malbec section, offering something a wee bit
different but essentially the same. The plummy fruit is dark but
restrained, juicy yet firm. Impressively polished and refined, this
stays intriguing for its persistent spiciness and fruitcake-like
funkiness. $10.99
Quinta do Espirito Santo 2006
Displaying the chameleon-like qualities that make these Portuguese reds
such interesting bargains, this goes from spicy dusty to cocoa powder
with plenty in between. The cranberry/raspberry fruit has that
just-picked freshness before bottoming out into darker fruit with mocha
overtones. We tasted many inexpensive Portuguese reds last month, this
was the stand-out. $9.99
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June 2009
Chateau Haut-Rian Blanc 2008
New vintage, new lower price, same great quality. A Sauvignon-Semillon
blend that plays to its Sauvignon strengths when young, this is focused
and citrus-fruit driven with mild notes of fines herbes. As it opens up,
the Semillon gains strength, fleshing out the texture and adding notes
of fig and almond. $9.99
Guicharde Côtes du Rhône 2007
Murray nods approvingly: "how much?" A shocked look appears on his face:
"what? how much?...really?" Yes, really. The magic of the '07 vintage is
obvious even at this price. Full-flavored and fleshy with a sappy
polished texture, violet peppery aromatics and deep cherry liqueur
fruit. Loads of wine for the money. $10.99
Quinta do Aveleda Vinho Verde 2007
Not all Vinho Verde are created equal. Sure, they're all about the same
price and most fulfill admirably their duty of slaking your thirst while
tickling your tongue but some are simply better. Like this one: tasty
tangy zippy, of course, but also floral creamy and a little bit rich. If
you're going to drink one (and you should), you might as well drink the
best. $9.50
Lezaun Tempranillo 2007
A little gem of a wine that will probably get lost amongst the flashier
competition, this delivers a true and elegant expression of Spain's
best-known varietal for a winning price. Medium-weight and fresh, the
pretty fruit flavors veer toward tangy marionberry (even mulberry)
complemented by notes of cinnamon and baking spices. Clean and simple,
grab this when you're looking for some under-stated elegance. $8.99
Perezzeta Sara Sangiovese 2007
We had the chance to re-taste this Small Vineyards favorite at a recent
Italian 101 class here and ouch! is it drinking well. So well in fact
that it elicited a string of approving expletives from one taster (not
me); isolated incident? Let's find out. Made in the same come-hither
style as the popular Rita and Erio bottlings, this emphasizes a mass of
smoky cherry fruit and a luxurious texture while retaining its Tuscan
roots. $10.99
O'Reilly's Pinot Gris 2007
Oh, David O'Reilly, is there any varietal you can't charm, any wine you
can't make delicious? Ok, maybe such flowery prose is excessive but for
ten bucks, this is awfully good. With clean precise flavors of ripe pear
and mild spice, a fleshy mouth-feel and a long juicy finish, this local
favorite is ready to impress your out-of-town guests at weddings,
graduations, or wherever. $9.99
La Bastide Douce Folie 2006
Oddly appealing in a subtle stealthy way, this non-traditional French
blend from the middle of "somewhere" is quietly charming given its
humble origin. The red fruit is high-toned, medium-weight and a touch
delicate while the dusty spiciness adds depth and bass notes. 25% each
Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Merlot. $9.99
Calcu 2006
Here's a mouthful of a wine that makes deft use of Chile's signature
varietal (Carmenère). Start with big black Cabernet Sauvignon fruit, add
a splash of Cab Franc for aromatics, then spice it up with Carmenère.
Plush smooth and juicy, this has BBQ crowd-pleaser written all over it.
$10.99
Chateau du Campuget Rosé 2008
Classic southern French (Provençal) style rosé from just southwest of
the Rhône, this captures beautifully this delicate style. Dry and very
pretty with just hints of ripe strawberry and tangy cherry. We've tasted
loads of newly arrived rosé and this one is spot on. $9.99
Monte da Capela Adega de Pias 2006
Deemed "one of the best values we have found in a while" by the
importer, it's easy to agree. With lively ripe red fruit, spicy clove
and that tangy dusty "Portuguese thang", this marries a high-toned
delicacy with a bass note heavy earthiness. Great combo. $10.99
Beauvignac Viognier 2008
An appealingly expressive white from the south of France that offers
delicate floral perfume notes, grapey melon fruit and a gently creamy
mouth-feel. Fruity aromatics and a dry finish give you the best of both
worlds. $9.99
Penfolds KH Cab-Shiraz 2007
All right, who's ready for a nice juicy Australian to get the party
going? Penfolds continues to be one of Australia's most consistently
quality producers. This delivers plenty of ripe blackberry fruit and
spicy vanilla oak without going overboard. For burgers on the grill or
just when you're jonesing for a "fruit-bomb", this'll do the trick.
$9.99
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July 2009
Villa Wolf Pinot Gris 2007
Man, this wine is tasty. Vivacious and generous, it offers the best of
both (pinot gris) worlds: mouthwatering floral lemon-lime notes balanced
by fleshy vinous fresh grape flavors, all topped with a dusting of white
pepper. $9.99
Marigny-Neuf Sauvignon Blanc 2006
From the wild edges of the Loire valley's grape-growing regions comes
this Haut-Poitou curiosity, imbued with a personality that matches its
location. It tastes Loire but there's something else... The aromatics
are all mineral, rock, even gunflint. The palate is dry and structured,
offering toasted nut and brioche flavors that stand out against the
subtle white fruit background. $10.99
Montgras Carmenère 2008
This varietal is all the rage in Chile but most examples available in
the US often disappoint. The Montgras is not one of those examples.
Built like a powerful Bordeaux, this offers smoky savory herb aromatics,
fleshy yet subtle black fruit flavors and a smooth yet structured
texture. At once familiar and new, this will pair well with grilled or
smoked meats especially a beefy hanger steak with herb butter. $10.99
Lezaun Rosado 2008
Our favorite "cheap" rosé again so far this year this 100% Garnacha pink
is made by the same family as last month's elegant tinto. With its dark
color, you expect heavy, but color can be deceiving. Fragrant and spicy,
the strawberry cherry fruit is round, fleshy and decidedly dry. Like the
tinto, this is way better than the price suggests. $7.99
Velvet Devil Merlot 2007
Wildman Charles Smith likes to give pet names to his wines. Doesn't a
velvet devil merlot taste better than a mere Charles Smith merlot? Of
course! Really though, this plays to Merlot's darker more structured
side and drinks more like a Cabernet. Velvety smooth and devilishly
delightful, this should pull former Merlot fans back under its seductive
spell. $10.99
Castano Monastrell 2007
A bombshell when it appeared on the scene a few years back for its
price/quality ratio, this new vintage proves it can still wow. Sure, 90
points from Parker's Wine Advocate is probably a bit excessive but it is
awfully good: smooth and polished with lifted red fruit aromatics
framing the darker slightly earthy black fruits on the palate. All this,
just $8.50.
Felline Rosso Salento 2006
Packed and loaded in that distinctly Southern Italian way, you can
almost see the heat shimmering over the rocky landscape as the sun-baked
fruit flavors slide down your throat. Vaguely rustic, broad-shouldered
and dense with ripe plum, raisin and mocha flavors and a mouth-filling
richness. $9.99
DuBoeuf Macon-Villages 2007
The man deserves his legendary status. Vintage after vintage, he
consistently produces an amazing array of quality wines, most of them
priced crazily low, like this one. Although made in stainless steel,
this goes 100% through malolactic fermentation, giving it a toasty
pain grillé richness to back up the light floral apply flavors.
Crisp, lively and a mere $7.50, this is perfect for casual hot weather
sipping.
Paraza Minervois 2006
Can't travel to the empty spaces of southwestern France this summer?
Close your eyes, drink this and pretend...It's all here, the savory
spice, the dusty earth, the chewy blackberry fruit- and it all comes
together in a medium-weight intriguingly foreign yet accessible package.
$9.99
Alamos Torrontes 2008
This deftly walks a fine line, offering enough of Torrontes' trademark
floral perfume without smothering you while keeping it dry and clean on
the finish. From rose petals to tropical fruit to a citrus aftertaste,
this is light and lively, a refreshing summertime alternative. $9.99
Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda 2008
Bonarda is Argentina's workhorse varietal. It's a daily drinker,
quaffer, BBQ red, all these and more. Suspiciously smooth and juicy with
ripe berry and mocha flavors, with just enough lively acidity to keep it
fresh. $8.99
Travignoli Chianti Rufina 2007
Who doesn't like a good Chianti to wash down this or that pizza or
meatball sub? The Travignoli is like a trusted sidekick, a dependable
stand-by when the Italian craving hits. This 2007 seems more polished
and approachable than past vintages with fleshy dark cherry fruit and
just hints of wild earthiness on the finish. $9.99
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August/September
2009
Broadbent Vinho Verde 2008
"Exactly what Vinho Verde should be." That comment by one taster says it
all. Fresh and lightly bubbly, the tangy peach and nectarine flavors
float on the palate, delicate and aromatic and the texture is light as a
feather. An excellent companion while harvesting tomatoes or puttering
around the garden. $9.99
Marques de Caceres Rioja Rosé 2008
The back label actually sums it up pretty well: "Full of fruit, yet
still light on the palate". That it is as well as being round fleshy and
supple in the mouth, with fresh strawberry and cherry notes and a dry
citrus-y finish. Sit back with a glass of this and watch the sun set on
another glorious Oregon summer. Tasty and cheap. $8.99
Vina Alarba Old Vine Grenache 2007
Before Monte Oton there was Fuego; before Fuego there was Alarba. We
used to sell oceans of this until it disappeared from the scene a few
years ago. Well, it's back and offers the same bang-for-the-buck as
before. With rich fleshy strawberry cherry fruit and piercing spice,
it's a mouthful, but there's enough structure and elegance to keep it
altogether. $9.99
Domaine d'Augeron Sables Fauves 2008
Discovered in classic P-S wines fashion (P-S is a longtime small local
importer), this Cotes de Gasgogne-ish white comes from a tiny family
winery at the end of a dirt road in a forested area that used to be a
swamp in Armagnac country. All of which has little to do with its taste
or quality I suppose, but I'm still amazed at what can be found down
France's many unpaved roads. Lip-smackingly tangy and bright with fleshy
peach fruit, it is refreshingly simple and uncomplicated yet offers a
satisfaction that transcends its simple-ness. $8.50
David Hill Farmhouse Red NV
A perfect northwest wedding wine (and plenty enjoyable without a
wedding), this is crowd-pleasingly smooth, soft, fruity and evokes
pastoral post-nuptial bliss with its simple farmhouse label. A blend of
several varietals, the high-toned raspberry fruit is balanced by a
Zinfandel-like spiciness and darker concentrated cassis flavors. Fleshy
and medium-bodied on the palate with a gentle whispery finish, its own
tender moonlight kiss. $9.99
Chapoton Côtes du Rhône 2007
Brand new to the Portland market and it makes a great first impression.
A nice dose of Mourvedre takes the typical Côtes du Rhône flavors in a
blue/black direction: floral iris notes, blueberry/blackberry and subtle
herbal earthy notes on the finish. Firm yet gentle and silky, this is
another 2007 Rhone winner. Organically farmed to boot, only $9.99.
D'Astruc Marsanne 2008
A new vintage of last year's surprise French white hit that once again
delivers zingy fresh grapey flavors in a round fleshy package. Richly
creamy with honeysuckle green herb notes. $9.50
Easton House Red 2005
Pitched as an everyman's "house wine", this California Cabernet-Syrah
blend has a lot more structure, depth, and brooding intensity than your
average quaffer (which in this case is a good thing). The dark black
fruit is joined by little flashes of high-toned red berry flavors and
smoky peppery herb. Best served with grilled meats. $10.99
Farnese Sangiovese 2007
Classic Sangiovese flavors presented in a fresh fruity style, this is
all tangy cherry and raspberry with a dusting of cocoa and cinnamon.
Supple and smooth with nice grip on the finish. $10.99
Principi di Butera Insolia 2006
There's lots of adjectives for this one, from rich buttered toast and
waxy honeycomb to tangerine and lemon curd. Creamy and mouth-filling but
beautifully balanced by just enough bright lively acidity, all topped
off with sprinkles of spicy minerality. Insolia is a not-often-seen
varietal from Sicily; after tasting this one, I'd like to see some more.
Regularly $13, an end-of-vintage deal knocks off over 20%. Now just
$9.99
Les Heretiques 2007
This longtime Portland favorite can still work its heretical charm
drawing the unsuspecting wine drinker into a cauldron of sin...or
something sordid like that... A side label from the fine French folks at
Chateau d'Oupia in Minervois, this has the earthy herbal floral vibe
typical of the Languedoc region followed by a wave of marionberry fruit.
Juicier than the 2006, it's ready for a warm evening under the stars.
$9.99
Campos Reales Tempranillo 2008
The label represents a tree (of life?) made up of all the animals that
would pair well with this wine...hmmm....yes, the label is playful and
in a sense, so is the wine. Like many wines today, it's a dependable BBQ
stand-by with its lush smoky black cherry and oaky spice flavors, but it
also has that extra zing!! that helps it stand out from its peers. It's
not Muga but for $8.99, you won't be disappointed.
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October 2009
Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Blast into fall with this zippy race car of a white from New Zealand's
Marlborough region. 90 points from the gurus at Wine Spectator who call
it "vivid, refreshing and brimming with lime-accented pear, star fruit
and light vanilla flavors, lingering nicely on the expressive finish".
That excellent description is followed by a recommendation that we
heartily endorse: "drink now." $9.99
Calosm Villa Valentino Primitivo 2008
A new southern Italian red that packs quite the punch for the money.
Dark fragrant and spicy, with candied raspberry fruit and dried plum.
Medium-weight dry and faintly pastoral tasting in that classic country
Italian way, this is ready for tonight's pizza. $9.99
Durand Syrah VV 2007
The VV stands for Vieilles Vignes (old vines) an attribute that shows
clearly in the wine. Hailing from Corbières in the Languedoc, this has
the expected profile of a wine made from old vines planted in the vast
hinterlands of southern France. Slightly coarse and rustic but
intriguingly so, with heady aromatics and a real mouthful of wild fruit.
Lavender spice and a wee bit of earthy herb is followed by tangy
raspberry and black plum. This has been a Case-of-the-Month-er many
times over the years and every time a hit. $9.99
Daniel Belda Tempranillo 2005
Here's a great example of how captivating Tempranillo can be while
remaining maddeningly difficult to describe. What is it about the vague
dark fruit and leathery funk that is so appealing? Perhaps the
juxtaposition between that (the wild side) and its more dominant
personality trait, the smooth and polished façade whose flavors hang on
the palate before heading into a long dust-tinged finish. $9.99
Gaussen VdP Mont Caume 2006
It's almost hearty stew weather, which begs for wines like this, a
charmingly rustic vin de pays from one of our favorite small Bandol
producers. Although not truly a "baby Bandol" (there's a little Cabernet
which isn't permitted), it still drinks like its hearty cousin. Smoky
spicy and throbbing with mellow bass note black fruit accentuated by
bursts of orange rind, black olive, and herbes de Provence. $9.99
Cave de Saumur Les Epinats 2008
A multi-faceted Loire Valley white that vividly displays many of Chenin
Blanc's charms. Lurking below a wash of lime-y tanginess is a swirl of
flavors; honeysuckle, peach, a mild gunflint minerality, citrus peel and
just-ripe red apples all make an appearance before finishing on a
delicate floral note with a hanging tanginess. $9.99
Dante Reserve Cabernet Sauv. 2007
This longtime Portland stand-by recently upped the ante by adding the
coveted "reserve" designation to its label; could it possibly live up to
its new status? And the answer is...for eight bucks, it's awfully good.
Bright, deep and long, the dark red-to-black fruit is framed by a touch
of spicy woodsiness and there's a nice tannic structure to hang all the
fruit on. Reserve? Sure, why not. $7.99
Alamos Malbec 2008
We tasted a dozen similarly priced Malbecs to see "what's happening"
with this popular Argentine varietal. While there were a several solid
examples (and just as many bad) the Alamos once again stood out as the
best of this bunch. A second label of the great Malbec producer Catena,
my notes read as if describing a more expensive wine: pretty, balanced
and elegant with zesty fresh red currants floating above a sea of
concentrated dusty cassis flavors. $9.99
Capestrano Passerina 2008
Passerina is a little-known white varietal that is planted across
central Italy and rarely shows up in Portland. It is a cool wine from
start to finish: powerful aromatics of white pepper, cantaloupe, and
some fancy French melon Murray can't remember the name of; mouth-filling
and structured on the palate where the flavors turn more honeydew and
wax before leaving on a dry finish that echoes with notes of candied
lemon. A little more cerebral that most whites in the price range and a
fun way to shake up your tasting regimen. $9.99
Peachy Canyon Zinfandel 2006
A nice "transitional" Zin from a Paso Robles mainstay, this is bright,
smooth and juicy with high-toned red berry and spicy plum. Elegant and
medium-bodied, this delivers a final summery Zin-fruit blast before we
head into the darker months. $8.99
Unus Old Vine Grenache 2007
The local importers keep finding exciting new wines to freshen our
shelves. This crowd-pleasing Spanish red bested the competition with its
fleshy sweet strawberry fruit and clean tasty profile. It deftly
straddles the wide gap between fake-o oaky goo and a brutally tannic
mouthful of dirt. $9.99
Revelry Chardonnay 2006
A steady off-the-shelf seller all summer, Revelry has succeeding by
taking the Cali Chard profile and dialing it back a bit. The appley
fruit is mild and fresh but still intensely-flavored, with light hints
of oak and zesty lemon thyme. It finishes dry and clean. $9.99
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November 2009
Palo Alto Reserva 2008
This one generated much commentary which I'll try to sum up: there's a
veil of tropical-inspired cocktail flavors (think Pina Colada, Mai Thai)
draped over a dense ball of smoky oaky deep dark fruit. Birthing the
term "Coco-Oako™", this is mouth-coatingly rich and hyper-saturated with
flavor. A hell of a lot of wine for the money. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenere and Syrah from Chile. $10.99
Cabanon Augurio 2004
From a forgotten corner out in the wild expanse of Lombardy Italy comes
this authentic peasant red. An adventurous blend of Bonarda, Pinot Nero,
and Barbera, it's rustic and wild with a sweet funk note that grows more
compelling the more you drink. The fruit is dark yet tangy with a meaty
herbal iron note that heads toward spiced plum cake on the finish.
Again, a lot of wine for the money but in a very different way than the
Palo Alto. $9.99
Beretta Bianco di Custoza 2008
Another surprisingly delicious and interesting Italian white that seems
perfectly ripe while balancing bright clean freshness with a creamy
lemon curd richness. Subtle floral blossom notes mix with cool honeydew
melon and buttery shortbread. Light on its feet but texturally
satisfying, this makes a lovely apéritif. $8.50
Camplazens Syrah 2007
Hailing from a southwestern French locale dubbed "camp of pleasure" by
the Romans, this wine carries on the tradition two thousand years later.
Brought in direct by a small importer, this value gem delivers northern
Rhône complex flavors for a vin de pays price. Beginning with an
aromatic whiz-bang of middle eastern spice and smoky tobacco, the fruit
tastes of just-ripe blackberries with meaty, dark earthy undertones and
dusty tannins on the finish. Gothic trappings aside, it remains bright,
medium-weight, even juicy at times, delivering lots of personality for
its modest price. $10.99
L'Ameillaud Côtes du Rhône 2007
Our preferred '07 Côtes du Rhône du jour (or du mois in this case), this
is mouth-filling yet vibrant as the ripe Grenache fruit leaves the red
spectrum for the black. Definitely not "one note," the marionberry and
candied cherry fruit is tamed by slight gamy notes, dried thyme and
affable tannins on the finish. $10.99
Guenoc Petit Sirah Lake County 2006
A substantial red that captures both sides of the coin that good Petit
Sirah can be. It's beefy and rich with layers of dense black fruit and
cocoa-y spice. Smooth and polished, the flavors hang on the palate
before finishing with a gentle crescendo of ripe tannins. A satisfying
crowd-pleasing red, sure to be a hit on Turkey Day. $10.99
Auratus Alvarinho 2007
A great "distributor switch" deal brings the price of this classy
Portuguese white way down to Case O' range. Alvarinho is the same as
Spanish Albarino, with its mild peachy fruit and refreshing saline note.
This offers that and more: very dry, minerally and reticent at first
with hints of peachy pear flavors, the intensity mounts as it warms and
opens up. Stony becomes flinty, the light earthiness turns smoky, and
austerity is replaced with a creamy almost oily texture. We've been
drinking its more expensive "big brother" all summer/fall and continue
to be amazed at the Auratus' quality. $10.99
Monte Toro Tinta de Toro 2007
Welcome to the wild and crazy side of Tempranillo. Spain's favorite
varietal typically takes on a powerful and meaty personality when
produced in the Toro region, apparent even at this price level. Brash
bold and feisty, the muscled red plum fruit is festooned with flashes of
toasty American oak and like a bar-room brawl you're not part of, it's
exciting to watch the tannin, acidity and fruit fight it out on your
palate. $8.99.
Wallace Brook Pinot Gris 2007
$10 Oregon gris, eh? Let's see...hmm...smells and tastes like gris,
that's a start...little spice, mild herb...ok, good...little ripe pear,
some heirloom apple (which variety?...can't recall), fleshy, soft, touch
of tangy nectarine on the finish...hey, this is actually really good!
2nd label of Adelsheim. $9.99
La Quercia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2008
A new vintage of an old Small Vineyards favorite, this excels on so many
levels. Intensely flavored fruit that runs the gamut from dark black
cherry to high-toned cranberry, plenty of cinnamon spice and a plush
inviting mouth-feel that firms up just enough on the finish. $9.99
Pennautier Viognier 2008
After a recent glass of this, the lightbulb went off: "that should be in
the case o' for November." Fruity and fleshy, this is a real
crowd-pleaser and a great bargain choice for the Turkey table.
Aromatically expansive and unique enough to stand out from the crowd of
flavors yet balanced enough not to cause too much of a stir. Floral and
peachy, dry and tangy, good and good. $9.99
El Reposo Bonarda 2006
Here's a great example of why Bonarda (a little-known varietal in the
US) apparently outsells the assumed favorite Malbec in Argentina. Not
only did we like this more than several other South American reds we
tasted, it's only 7 and a half bucks! Polished smooth and luscious with
pretty perfume aromatics, concentrated raspberry fruit and a grippy
sappy finish. $7.50
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December 2009
St. Bartholomew Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008
I already see this as the season's go-to holiday party red and why not?
A side label from Walla Walla's Reininger Winery, it's spectacular wine
for the money. Made from 15-20-year old vines, this is dark and rich
with shades of toasty oak and cocoa. What really makes it shine is
balance, depth and length, proving it to be a better wine than the price
suggests. For "big" Cab close to home, this is tough to beat. $11.99
Chaussynette 2008
This Case O' favorite is essentially Côtes du Rhône. The fruit comes
from just over the Châteauneuf du Pape border and is produced by CDP
heavyweight Mas de Boislauzon. Boasting strapping young fruit typical of
the region, the hard candy cherry fruit is sappy and layered while
aromatics of violets and garrigue-y spice swirl above. $9.99
Dievole Sangiovese 2007
This came as a real palate-refresher after tasting through a string of
heavy-handed reds and it should be a winner with tonight's pasta. The
tangy cherry fruit is smooth, medium weight and clean and the cinnamon
spice notes get the olfactory bulb humming. Not too earthy, not too
fruity, just a solid satisfying Tuscan red that tastes like classic
Chianti. $9.99
Jouclary Cabardès 2006
Cabardès is one of the rare southwestern French appellations that allows
blending Bordeaux varietals with traditional Languedoc ones. This starts
with a burst of proper Bordeaux-esque Cabernet Sauvignon dark plum and
red currant fruit before looking to Syrah to spice things up and get a
little beefy. Charmingly rustic and proud, like a slightly faded country
manor house, its structure and fruit profile make it a perfect companion
on a cold winter night. $9.99
Drouhin Laforet Chardonnay 2008
This seemingly simple Bourgogne blanc has really developed into a
thoroughbred in this price range. It has improved vintage after vintage,
and the brand-new release tops 'em all. With well-defined pure
Chardonnay flavors, there's impeccable balance between the creamy rich
fruit and bright lively acidity. Throw in notes of spiced nuts and
honeycrisp apples and you have a pretty serious white Burgundy for the
money. $9.99
Gougenheim Malbec 2008
We went to the bullpen for this one. After tasting through a handful of
uninspiring new Malbec candidates, we scanned the shelf and realized we
hadn't yet trotted out the new vintage of the "Goug". Although the dark
brooding profile of past vintages has been tempered by brighter red
fruit flavors, this offers more complexity and liveliness than in the
past. A smoky dark nose gives way to jazzy boysenberry and marionberry
fruit that is fleshy and plush yet doesn't spill out of its shirt. $9.99
Zellina Pinot Grigio 2008
The 2007 was a big hit here (and around town as a favored glass pour)
until it sold out. This new arrival picks up where the '07 left off.
Focused and bright with fleshy pear fruit and a touch of spicy herb on
the finish, this offers lots of true pinot grigio character for a great
price. $8.99
Monte Oton Garnacha 2008
The Spanish wine with the colorful dots all over the label is back. Last
year's vintage was one of our best selling Garnachas all year and this
new vintage keeps up the tradition. Still full-bodied and generous,
there's good structure lurking beneath the ample fruit, with plenty of
peppery spice to zest it up. $8.99.
Pajzos Furmint Tokaji 2007
Huh? This rare addition to the Case of the Month is as fun to drink as
it is to say. Hailing from Hungary's famous Tokaji region, this is an
excellent winter white. Richly textured and multi-dimensional, the fruit
is mellow with suggestions of lychee, grapeskin, orange zest and lime,
while the aromatics speak of rose petals and white pepper. A deliciously
different white, this is really interesting wine for the price. $9.99
Bon Ventos Tinto 2008
Flashy and fleshy, this is another one of those "can't believe it's that
good for the money" Portuguese reds that happily come our way with
increasing frequency. Super smooth and broad shouldered, this is jammed
with ripe blackberry fruit and spicy violet aromatics. Ripe fruit, yes,
but there's plenty of perky acidity to keep the ball bouncing. $8.50
Arancio Nero d'Avola 2006
Another great tasty bargain from Sicily, this starts with dark plummy
fruit and wild herb notes before turning chewy and spicy on the finish.
Nero d'Avola is quickly becoming a shop favorite and at this price, you
can see why. $7.99
Delmas Blanquette de Limoux '06
Three years in a row? Are we getting lazy? Not at all; believe me,
we tried to find something new. We tried about thirty to be precise.
Brown-bagged, lined-up, may the best wine win. And not surprisingly,
here's the winner. It again clearly out-classed everything else we
tasted in this price range. It has a delicate mousse, rich yet subtle
flavors of fresh green apples, and a floral lemony finish. Although
Limoux is a stone's throw from hearty-red territory (Corbières,
Minervois) in southern France, its vineyards are a bit higher and
consequently cooler, allowing them to produce fresh and vibrant
sparkling wine which has been done here since 1531 (the locals claim
Blanquette was being crafted here long before Dom Pérignon arrived in
Champagne). Made mostly from the local favored varietal Mauzac blended
with some Chardonnay and certified organic. $9.50
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