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January/February 2011
Chapoton Côtes du Rhône 2009
Now into the great 2009 vintage, we couldn’t pass on this one. Dark
smoky and sappy with a throbbing intensity, the blackberry coulis is
accompanied by swirling violet lavender aromatics and the occasional pop
of high-toned raspberry. Smooth and polished, it is semi-modern in
style, open-knit and delectable. $10.99
Leithner Gruner Veltliner 2008
Think big in 2011! Drink more 1-Liters! Still packaged in its lovable
squat 1-Liter bottle with the crown cap, this has bonus written all over
it. From the lively 2008 vintage, this is bursting with snappy lime zest
and freshly ground white pepper. Plenty refreshing and thirst quenching,
the thriving-garden-in-the-sun aromatics keep it interesting as well.
It’s good that there’s the extra 250ml; once you pop the top, it
disappears quickly. $9.99
Vale do Bomfim Douro 2007
Sneakily popular and deservedly so (the popular part, not the sneaky
part). A dry red produced by the famous Port house Dow, this handily
over-delivers quality for the price. Capturing a snapshot of the rugged
beauty of the Douro river valley tamed by the aristocratic “House of
Dow”, this seesaws between meaty wild blackberry notes and a more
civilized appealingly sappy mouth-feel. The tannins are slightly chewy
yet ripe, the dusty funk suggested but faded, like a fond memory. $9.99
NW Vine Project Pinot Gris 2009
Hands-down summer white favorite. Finally, some punchy party Gris at a
party price. NW Vine Project is a collection of wines from different
winemakers blah blah…listen, forget that. All you need to know is that
this delivers a blast of fleshy pear/melon fruit and zesty spice that
will make even the worst hay fever sufferer notice. Lushly flirtatious,
bordering on promiscuous, this says “fun” from first whiff to last sip,
perfect for all kinds of occasions. $9.99
Reverdito Barbera d’Alba 2008
The charming Reverdito family gave us wonderful year-end bargains with
their Barolo and Barbera. Let’s keep the party going. A fantastic basic
Barbera, this well-priced direct import seems like a Piedmont secret.
Medium-weight and smoothly textured, there’s lots of white pepper and
black earth notes surrounding the black raspberry fruit, and the finish
is juicy and clean. $11.99
Beretta Soave 2009
Is this new vintage even better than the 2008 or is that just the muse
of spring calling? Another Italian stroll-through-the-meadow white,
perfect for Primavera and lazy weekend lunches. Clean and fresh with the
delicate melon, grape skin and lemony notes typical of this region,
subtle and mild yes, but such is its charm. Grigio-ish in weight and
style but more compelling than many in this price range. $9.99
Celtus 2005
Still good. Really. Laconic in name and label art, fortunately this
Spanish red does have something to say. Layered and deep, the dense
black fruit is lightened by rosy perfume aromatics and mild woodsy
baking spice notes. Starting to open up and soften after five years in
bottle, there remains enough tangy grip on the finish to give a pleasant
bite.85% Tempranillo, 10% Cab Sauv and 5% Syrah. $9.99
Tormaresca Neprica 2008
Interestingly, customer response mirrored an open bottle’s evolution:
initially subdued but once it gets going there’s lots going on. NEro
d’avola, PRImitivo and CAbernet Sauvignon add up to…this, a red from the
sunny wilds of Puglia in southern Italy. Although plenty sunny there,
this wine is all about the dark: black plum, ripe blackberry, and a deep
dark loamy soil note full of warm spices. But, one needs the light to
become the dark, and the more the light, the more the dark; a maxim best
pondered over a glass of this heady beast. $9.99
Castle Rock Cab Sauv. Napa 2007
Napa. 2007. $9.99. No surprise that it was so popular. With classic Napa
Cabernet flavors of dark plum, cassis and mocha toast, this is richly
flavored and plush but still shows elegance and restraint. Simply put,
for Cabernet fans, this is a lot of wine for the money. $9.99
Palo Alto Reserva 2008
For those who can’t escape to a desert isle, this rum-esque red provides
a warmth all its own. There’s a veil of tropical-inspired cocktail
flavors (think Pina Colada, Mai Tai) draped over a dense ball of smoky
oaky deep dark fruit. Birthing the term “Coco-OakoT”, this is
mouth-coatingly rich and hyper-saturated with flavor. Cabernet
Sauvignon, Carmenere and Syrah from Chile. $9.99
St. Vincent Muscadet 2009
The “dry French white in the tall bottle” is back . Young Muscadet is
supposed to be light and crisp, a quintessential oyster wine. The good
ones however offer much more. Like this one. Sure it’s appropriately
light but there’s so much going on: meyer lemon, lime, white peach, a
salty biscuity note followed by slightly grassy white pepper ending with
a terrific finish, tangy and electric. $9.99
Trumpeter Malbec 2009
Goofy name, good wine, great price. A second label of Rutini, this new
vintage again does wonders for the price. It’s a slurper, no doubt, all
sappy blackberry pie and cocoa powder, but offers a nice beam of
freshness up the middle to keep it all together. Not overblown and oaked
to within an inch of its life, it’s surprisingly balanced for just
$7.50.
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March 2011
Corsini Matot 2009
This young-vine Piedmont red offers a full-flavored mouthful of juicy
wild blackberry, all tangy and fresh, with hints of earth and savory
underbrush aromatics. Pure and vibrant throughout with a nice kiss of
smoky tannin on the finish. Predominantly Barbera with Nebbiolo and
Dolcetto. $10.99
Argiolas Costamolino 2009
A beauty of a Sicilian white that blends a fleshy tropical fruit-laden
texture with aromatics that transport you to the scrubland by the sea.
The white peach, pineapple and pear fruit is full-on yet dry and the
aromatics intoxicating: white pepper, lemon verbena and even a mild
saline note. $10.99
Notro Sangiovese-Bonarda 2009
"A classic mid-range quaffer that you look for in a case of the month
wine" commented one taster with less than stellar grammar. Grammar
aside, the reasoning is spot-on. Medium-weight smooth and juicy, the
floral high-tone coffee bean notes are invitingly pretty and the wild
berry fruit is bright and clean. Snappy and fresh, this is versatile
enough to pair with a range of frozen microwaveable entrees. $8.50
Alamos Torrontes 2010
Second place winner in the New York Times recent Torrontes taste-off,
Alamos' version of this off-beat Argentine white has been a good pick
for years. Pulling together much of what makes Torrontes so compelling
(and leaving out that which makes it not), this is florally fragrant
without being overpowering and offers a nice mild bitter herb and
tangerine citrus note to balance the fleshy peach fruit. $9.99
Charles & Charles 2009
One of these Charleses is Smith, the bushy-haired brains behind K
Vintners, the original "House Wine" and a host of other starkly-labeled
Washington slurpers. Not one to mess with a winning formula, this hews
to his trademark style: full-bodied and brash with plenty of dark fruit
and enough smoky hickory notes to make you want to fire up the BBQ.
50/50 Cabernet/Syrah and lots of both. $9.99
Torrederos Ribera del Duero 2009
This young 100% Tempranillo shows its Ribera del Duero roots- the dark
plum and blueberry fruit is firm, dusty and minerally before softening
slightly on the creamy textured finish. More powerful than most Rioja
yet less fruity than most modern-style Tempranillo, this is really solid
wine for the money. Pair with hearty savory dishes for best results.
$9.99
Feudi Bordonaro Nero d'Avola
Bordonaro is a small winery owned by Firriato, a highly respected
Sicilian producer who just switched importers- good for us as prices are
now lower. This tastes like a more serious wine than the price suggests,
and changes dramatically as it opens; initially tangy minerally, the
mild cherry fruit is joined by thyme and rosemary notes before turning
darker and meatier the longer it sits open. $9.99
Vina Gormaz Rueda 2009
Grapefruit, passionfruit, whatever-kind-of-fruit, this tickles the
tastebuds and primes the palate for the first stirrings of spring. A
blend of 70% Verdejo and 30% Viura from Spain's rising white wine region
that nicely balances a limey zestiness with a round gentle texture.
$9.99
Camplazens Syrah 2009
The warmth of the 2009 vintage is apparent in this new arrival of an old
favorite. Still tasting more like northern Rhone than Languedoc (which
is where it is from), the fruit is gently plump yet pure and clean with
good acidity and focus. The flavors are classic French: floral violet,
light peppery spice, black raspberry and a creamy graham crackery
finish. $11.99
La Croix Belle Chardonnay 2009
Is this a French-leaning domestic Chard or an internationally-styled
French Chard? The latter. The underlying minerality and crisp acidity
keep it fresh and bright while the butterscotchy fruit and vanilla crème
give it an outré sex appeal. $9.99
Caposaldo Chianti 2005
A classic Trattoria wine that offers typical Sangiovese flavors of
macerated black cherry and dusty red plum in a open-knit user-friendly
style. Broad and smooth on the palate with enough backbone to stand up
to many dishes, the five years in bottle have given this time to mellow,
soften and develop. $9.99
Vina Borgia 2009
This 100% Grenache standby still boasts an incredibly low price and
consistent quality. Medium-weight, moderately fruity and built for
casual uncritical enjoyment, the dark cherry fruit is joined by spicy
herb notes and an earthy backbone. $7.99
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April 2011
Wayne
Gretzky No. 99 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005
Don’t laugh, this is good. And it’s not a high-priced vanity project
either; à la Paul Newman, profits help fund sports programs for
disadvantaged youth. Having just poured it at a Saturday tasting at its
old $13 price, we jumped when the price dropped. With intimations of
Stag’s Leap District, this tastes like old-school classy Napa Cab:
smooth black plum and cassis fruit, mild savory notes and
well-integrated oak on the finish. $8.99
Ippolito Ciro Rosso 2007
A cool southern Italian red of great complexity, this offers a wealth of
subtle flavors in a decidedly non-fruity style. Although inedible, the
aromatics fire the imagination: wet leaves of autumn and dry leather
mixed with a cedary woodsy spice. Edible fruit does appear on the palate
though, mostly black plum and dried cranberry, before sinking into a
gently chewy finish. 100% Gaglioppo, this is a nice old world detour in
our increasingly modern world. $10.99
Brunori Verdicchio 2009
A fresh and zesty Italian white from the Marche region, this is blessed
with ample pear and white peach fruit, supported by a slight saline
minerally note and crisp acidity. Classic Italian white but better than
most in this price range. $9.99
LAB Tinto 2008
Sporting a shameless label designed to appeal to dog lovers everywhere,
this Portuguese red tastes much better than the simple label and price
suggest. Clean and precise with an appealing dusty licorice-tinged
sweetness, the juicy red plum fruit is fleshy yet balanced by enough
acidity and lift to make it stand out. Light to medium-bodied and fresh,
we tasted it ever-so-slightly chilled; to us the perfect temperature for
a late afternoon early season BBQ. $8.50
Delas Côtes du Rhône 2009
An easy choice: 90 pts. from Parker who sez: “The brilliant 2009 is the
best Côtes du Rhone I have ever tasted from Delas. The wine has great
fruit and a sweet raspberry and black cherry nose with some herbs,
licorice, and pepper. Aged all in tank, the wine is medium to
full-bodied and possesses sweet tannin as well as a long finish.” $10.99
Corvidae Crowe 2009
An inspired Columbia Valley white blend whose clean racy structure is
enveloped in a range of surprising flavors including citrus peel,
grapes, tropical fruit and melon. Sounds like a stretch but it is all
nice balanced, the texture tidy, the flavors fresh. $9.99
Kiona Lemberger 2007
Lemberger (or its Austrian version, Blaufrankisch) is not a varietal on
the tip of many tongues but if more were like this Red Mountain
(Washington) bottling, they should be. Delivering a big mouthful of
smoky black fruit and oaky peppery spice, this tastes a bit like
Washington Syrah, rich in flavor and body with dried cherry and
cranberry on the finish. $9.99
Albaflor Tinto 2008
One of only a few wines from the Spanish island Mallorca that is
available in Portland, this is a gustatory glimpse into yet another cool
Spanish wine region to explore. Comprised primarily of Mantonegro,
Mallorca’s dominant varietal, this is an intriguing wine of strong
opinions, barely tamed by the winemaker’s hand. The edgy mineral fruit
offers piercing flavors of hard cherry candy and cola while peppery herb
notes linger on the grippy finish. Not as austere as I just made it
sound, but no juice-ball either. $9.50
Vinum Cellars Pinot Noir 2008
A 2008 Pinot Noir for $10? Well, it is from California but hey, it’s
still pretty darn tasty for the price. Sourced from cooler-climate
vineyards, this is medium-bodied and restrained with black tea and spice
notes complementing the mild black plum fruit before finishing with a
lively snap. $9.99
Selbach Riesling 2009
After tasting about 50 wines one day, it was such a relief to take a
swig of this, as refreshing as a beer or sparkling water but a lot more
complex. Fresh and floral, the apple and lemon flavors are light on
their feet yet succulent and citrus-ly mouthwatering. Definitely not
sweet but not so painfully dry as to have no flavor, this will make a
lovely companion in the garden one fine spring day. $9.99
Andeluna Malbec 2009
Straight-up good Malbec that offers a little of this, a little of that
whose sum total equals a nicely balanced wine. The fruit leans dark and
dense overall but with enough juicy red raspberry and cocoa spice to
make it pop. $9.99
El Portillo Sauvignon Blanc 2008
An interesting and complex Argentine white that offers a mix of floral
grassy aromatics, racy grapefruit and almost Gruner Veltliner-like white
pepper notes on the finish. The flavors are well-developed yet clean,
the fruit rich yet very dry. $8.99
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May 2011
Domaine L'Abbé Abymes 2009
A white from France's Savoie region that is as fresh and invigorating as
the spring Alpine air. The varietal is Jacquère and it offers a lemony
sweet-tart tanginess and medium-bodied succulent texture finishing with
fresh floral notes. With suggestions of new grass and crushed rock, it's
a picnic in a bottle. $9.99
Laila Rosso Piceno 2009
Raisinets! Balsamic! And more! So many different flavors kept popping
out of this bargain Italian red that my notes have a confused disheveled
look. Round dark plummy fruit envelopes the palate while hints of dust,
smoked meats, mocha and espresso ply the fruity sea. Mostly modern in
style with enough tiny tannins creeping in to hold it all together.
$8.99
Vinosia Falanghina 2009
A surprisingly good Italian white for the money, this is a new venture
from the original founders of Feudi di San Gregorio, a benchmark of
quality for southern Italy. Showing classic Falanghina characteristics,
the nose is all lemon blossom and mild greenness while the palate offers
fleshy tangerine and pineapple fruit draped over a mineral backbone,
with a dry volcanic kick on the finish. $9.99
Arbor Crest Cliff House Red NV
This under-the-radar Washington red blend is a value winner, offering
much more drinking pleasure than the label or its non-vintage status
might suggest. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Sirah and Malbec
that was aged 18 months in French oak, it is full-bodied, dark and deep
with spicy oak notes accenting the ripe berry and cassis fruit. An
interesting blend that works as the Cab Franc savory aromatics and
Merlot fruitiness nicely balance the Petit Sirah beefiness. $8.99
Cuvée de Pena VdP Pyrenees 2008
A charmingly rustic country wine from the French side of the Pyrenees
that offers flavors typical of the region in a quietly confident way.
Spicy garrigue and floral violet aromatics lead to a palate full of
black and blue fruits shot through with a wet earth/loamy note. $9.99
Giesen Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Fast, cheap and nearly out of control, this delivers plenty of racy
limey punch while staying far away from the searing acidity sometimes
found in Marlborough whites. A white to rouse the tastebuds from their
winter slumber, this will pair nicely with the first grilled jumbo
prawns of the season. $9.99
Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria '07
Capturing the moodiness that May weather can often bring (sunny one day,
cold and rainy the next), this traditional blend pairs the robust
Sicilian mainstay Nero d'Avola with the fragrant lighter-bodied
Frappato. Mouth-filling yet bright and zesty, the lively Frappato is the
perfect foil for the bass-note richness of Nero. Aromatics of violets,
lavender, and dried cranberry give way to dark cherry and dried plum on
the palate with flashes of wild herb and mild country funk in the
background. $9.99
Anciano Tempranillo Reserva 2004
One look at the bottle with its ornate label and wire cage and you
should know what to expect: a traditional-style red that emphasizes
subtle secondary flavors over primary fruit. Medium-bodied and
restrained, the dried cherry and blueberry aromatics lead to a creamy
yet dusty mouth-feel with grippy tannins on the finish. $9.99
Scalabrone Rosato 2009A close-out deal to move the last of the
2009, this 100% Syrah rosé is from the Guado al Tasso estate in
Bolgheri. Given the sad possibility of a continuation of April's lousy
weather, this full-flavored barely-a-rosé was about as rosé-ish as we
could muster. But no matter, it's drinking great and will do double-duty
as warm weather refreshment or commiserating partner as you sit by the
fire watching the rain. Regularly $16, now $9.99.
Fabla Garnacha Vinas Viejas 2008One of the nicest bargain
old-vine Spanish Grenache we have had in a while, this received the
coveted "really nice flavors" comment, a vague but telling observation.
Full-bodied and smoothly textured, the fruit is dark and spicy like a
hearty Rhône, finishing with a juicy vinous burst of freshness. $10.99
Pine Ridge Chenin-Viognier 2009
A favorite springtime California white, this is round, soft and generous
yet overall remains somehow light and airy. Vinous and fresh with
flavors of juicy green grapes, melon and a squirt of saucy peach from
the 20% Viognier. $10.99
Oxford Landing GSM 2008
A playful juicy summery fun red that is fragrant and sappy with lots of
tangy raspberry, strawberry and pie crust flavors. Not overblown or
heavy, it walks a fine line between appealingly fruity and staying light
on its feet. $8.99
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June 2011
Trentadue Old Patch Red 2009
Despite a name that invited teasing, we had to admit it's really darn
good. 77% good quality Zinfandel (mixed with Petite Sirah) and sourced
entirely from their Alexander Valley estate, this could be labeled
simply as Zinfandel and easily be more expensive. Offering complexity
not found in cheap bulk juice California reds, this has dusty red fruit
overtones, all deep cherry kirsch and bright raspberry, mild brambly
spice and a dose of sexy vanilla oak, flavors that sail on through the
long succulent finish. $10.99
Legado Munoz Tempranillo 2009
Unabashedly modern in style, this offers a blast of peppery blackberry
fruit, juicy and creamily textured, followed by a long finish where the
flavors echo and echo and echo and echo. $9.99
Ique Malbec 2009
A new-to-us version of that grape folks can't seem to get enough of,
this isn't icky at all. With a plush entry and taut mid-section, this
sports a fruit-driven style that narrowly avoids driving into too much
fruit. Floral, fresh and brimming with baking spice aromatics, the
palate is clean with red/black fruit and a little wood, trailing
boysenberries on the finish. $9.99
Riff Pinot Grigio 2010
Riff is a second label of top Alto Adige producer Alois Lageder. With a
state-of-the-art facility and great vineyard sources, this is a leading
name in the region whose reputation for quality extends to this, their
value line. Fresh off the boat and charmingly demonstrative, this 2010
is graced with a fine balance between cantaloupe melon richness and a
vaguely minerally zip, making it clean and refreshing while satisfying
those demanding taste buds. $9.99
Ferrandière Marselan 2008
A hybrid varietal born in 1961, Marselan is a cross between Cabernet
Sauvignon and Grenache and is truly a rare sight. A cool red that isn't
easily compared to others in the Languedoc region, the main flavors in
this bottling seem to be bright red plum, fig paste and candied orange
peel. Medium-bodied yet flavorful, there's an unexpected yet appealing
citrus lift mid-palate that imparts freshness and just a hint of bitter
chocolate on the finish. $9.99
Lezaun Rosado 2010
A bargain favorite year after year, this 100% Garnacha again offers
mouthwatering watermelon jolly rancher high notes to complement the
darker cherry fruit. $8.99
Ken Forrester Pinotage 2009
Normally I see danger signs when encountering an inexpensive Pinotage. A
hybrid between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, it is South Africa's vinous
claim to fame, yet cheap versions generally leave a lot to be desired.
That said, this is a great example and tastes like versions twice the
price. Offering some of that spicy sweet funk that marks it as Pinotage,
this also delivers plenty of saturated soft blue fruit flavors and a
kiss of savory herb on the finish. $9.99
Monte Vehlo Tinto 2009
Dark and moody like the never-ending rain clouds, this comes from a
lesser-known region of Portugual, Alentejano, and is a blend of regional
varietals Trincadeira, Aragonez and Castelao. Structured and "old world"
in style, the warm black plum fruit is accented by dried cherry, briar
woodsy notes and a light dusting of cocoa powder. Perfect for the winter
stew leftovers in the freezer or one of those unavoidable cool rainy
June nights. $9.99
Moulin de Ferrand Entre-deux-Mers 2010
A classic Bordeaux blanc that pits the racy crispness of sauvignon blanc
(60%) against the softer waxy texture of Semillon (40%). With pretty
saline grassy aromatics and mild yet persistent fruit, there's more here
than initially meets the eye. Common as a de facto Parisian bistro
white, it's a great choice for oysters, mussels and other shellfish.
$9.50
San Felice Perolla Rosso 2009
A new world style Super Tuscan from the Maremma region, this is tangy
and bright with sweet red cherry fruit and shades of warm oaky spice.
Juicy and vinous overall but with enough tannin on the backend to hold
it all together. $10.99
Santa Julia Torrontes 2010
A lighter crisper version of Argentina's preferred white, this offers
telltale floral aromatics and tropical fruit notes in a clean fresh
style. Very pretty and flavorful without being too much of a good thing.
$8.99
Natura Carmenère 2009
Surprisingly good Chilean red, this plays the Carmenère card spicy and
firm with characteristic notes of cured tobacco, leather and pungent
spice to shore up the powerful black fruit. Rich in body and
occasionally juicy, this cries out for grilled peppercorn steak, garlic
rosemary lamb, or other grilled savory fare. $8.50.
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July 2011
Marchetti Montepulciano 2008
Newly arrived from our Small Vineyards Direct Import order, this new
vintage is rocking good. Darker denser and meatier than your average
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, this offers a chewy mouthful of dark ripe plum
balanced by elegant high-toned cranberry notes, smoky spicy salami, and
a graham cracker buttery note. $11.50
Chateau Blouin Bordeaux 2009
The spectacular quality of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage is on full display
here, proving once again that the cheapest wines often have the most to
gain in top vintages. With layered fresh herb aromatics, deep cassis
fruit, excellent concentration and gently gripping tannins on the
finish, this rises well above its humble price. $9.99
Vinha Real Vinho Verde 2010
As bracing and invigorating as a slap of aftershave, this Portuguese
summertime white is brand new to Pdx. Refreshing as always, this dazzles
with a tangerine zestiness and mild spritz while offering a bit more
plumpness than many others. Looking deceptively like a bottle of Grey
Goose vodka, this has much less alcohol than that, making it a great way
to cool off on a hot summer day. $8.50
Evodia Old Vine Garnacha 2009
The clear winner among the Spanish Garnacha flight we sampled, this
offered the best of all worlds, everything in its proper place. With
both red and black fruit, dusty wild herb notes and a silky mouthfeel
with the mildest of tannins, this seemed a much more complete wine that
some one-note versions. Moderately restrained and elegantly styled, this
tastes like the label looks. $9.99
Corvidae Rook Cab/Merlot/Syrah 08
That's right! A steal of a deal on this popular NW red as the winery
(Owen Roe really) said "move it" to make way for the new vintage. Big
and juicy, the grapey berry fruit slides across the palate while shades
of smoky oak and cocoa linger on the sidelines. A multi-purpose
crowd-pleaser par excellence, this is an easy choice for parties, BBQs,
weddings and the like. Maybe a whole case just for yourself. Regularly
$15, now only $8.99.
Massamier la Mignarde Rosé 2010
From the Minervois region of southwestern France, this is predominantly
Cinsault, the favored varietal for southern French rosé due to its
bright acidity, aromatic lift and ability to convey flavor without
weight. Just as it should be, this is pretty and lively with
roundly-textured strawberry and watermelon fruit, finishing dry and
stony. $10.99
Pazo Serantellos Albarino 2010
The little wedge of northwestern Spain sitting atop Portugal is home to
the appellation Rias Baixas and its famous white varietal Albarino. A
wonderful accompaniment to the fresh fish caught nearby along the
Galician coast, Albarino is dry and crisp, often delivering a brisk
saline note. This bottling captures those flavors at a great price:
medium-bodied and fresh, it offers a hint of guava and peach fruitiness
before turning decidedly dry on the salted biscuit finish. $9.99
Merum Monastrell 2006
Tasting more like a Bandol or French mourvèdre than a fruitified Jumilla
Monastrell, this is lightly smoky, dusty and subdued with medium-weight
high-toned black raspberry fruit, earthy black olive notes and a long
spicy finish. $9.99
Brancott Pinot Noir 2007
At a recent New Zealand earthquake charity tasting, we were all reminded
how nicely different Kiwi Pinot can be. Commonly offering the fruitiness
of American Pinot Noir paired with an earthiness reminiscent of
Burgundy, they taste like Pinot but have their own distinct personality.
The Brancott is typical NZ with a carpet of plush concentrated kirsch
and framboise flavors balanced by a spicy black tea gamy note. Pretty up
front yet beefy on the finish, it's a nice change of pace, especially
for the price. $10.99
Les Perles Viognier 2010
A pleasantly plump and fragrant white perfect for when your palate wants
a break from all those "refreshingly crisp and dry" whites that dominate
summer drinking. Peachy and grapey, fleshy and sassy, this delivers a
floral mouthful of fruit backed by enough vibrant acidity to hold it all
together. $9.50
Gougenheim Bonarda-Syrah 2008
The Gougmeister has pulled another delicious rabbit out his wine hat.
Full-bodied and velvety, the ripe marionberry and dark plummy fruit has
accents of white pepper and grilled meaty notes, flavors that stretch
across the palate before turning chewier on the finish. $9.99
Indaba Chenin Blanc 2010
A bargain slurper version of South Africa's signature white, this is
clean and pure with succulent tropical fruit and nectarine balanced by
fresh limey notes on the finish. $9.50
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August/September
2011
Vina Mayor Ribera del Duero 2005
A whizbang distributor switcheroo closeout deal shaves five bucks off
this nicely aged Spanish red. Marked by its voyage in American oak and
entry into middle age, this is starting to get quite interesting. The
fruit is dark overall with splashes of framboise high notes while toasty
oak spice mingles with dusty tannins and the texture is mellow, turning
slightly waxy on the finish. $10.99
Paso a Paso Verdejo 2009
Picture if you will, a limey beam of acidity encased in a cocoon of
plush tropical fruit, surrounded by fresh green grapes and star fruit,
all sprinkled with shavings of lemon zest. When you need a hand
relaxing, it's time for a little Paso a Paso. $9.99
La Croix Belle Chardonnay 2010
The 2010 of this now favorite French Chard just arrived and thank God,
it's just as good as ever. Despite the overall profile leaning French
(mild mineral notes, good acidity, dry finish), there's a punch of
richly-flavored spiced apple fruit and the creamy texture lends an
easy-going party vibe. $10.99
Healdsburg Ranches Zinfandel 2009
"Smells like a killer summer berry pie to me" says Murray. Or maybe a
vanilla cream soda. Or maybe just what it is, a north coast Zin with a
cooler climate personality. Milder blue fruits instead of red, whiffs of
white pepper as opposed to spicy black, medium-bodied and firmer than
most with a brambly chew on the finish. $9.99
Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
A burly sultry beast of a wine that seems tailor-made for meats hung
over an open flame, this starts sexy and finishes firm. Choclately oaky
spice aromatics give way to a load of concentrated blackberry and red
cassis fruit before tightening up on the smoky back-end. $9.99
Pico Maccario Barbera d'Asti 2009
An easy pick after little discussion. From its lovely nose to its clean
gentle finish, this is quite the class act. The candied red cherry fruit
is medium-bodied, smooth and round with enough cinnamon spice and bright
acidity to keep it fresh and zesty. An excellent warm weather red. $9.99
Les Capucins Languedoc 2008
Time again to taste the monkey! A favorite powerhouse red from last
summer, this new vintage once again over-delivers for the price. A blend
of Grenache and Syrah, this opens with violets, iris and wet earth on
the nose followed by taut black raspberry, dusty yet fresh herb notes
and wisps of smoke. $9.99
Lorelle Pinot Grigio 2010
Although labeled Grigio, this is 100%Willamette Valley from Chehalem
Mountain producer J. Albin. Definitely dry but with an intriguing
powdered sugar note, the fruit bounces from pear to honeydew to lemon
before sealing the deal with a slightly yeasty zesty kiss on the finish.
This is nice Oregon Gris at a happy price. $9.99
Montmarin Rosé 2010
I can think of worse ways to mourn the passing of another NW summer than
a bottle of this and a passel of friends on the porch, everyone raising
a glass. One of this summer's bargain faves, this is appropriately
pretty and fragrant but stands out for its balance: big on flavor yet
light on its feet: dry, zingy and fresh. $9.50
Castillo del Baron Monastrell 2009
A more-than-solid bargain whose style falls somewhere between old world
and new, this is perfect for late summer parties and potlucks, being
both good and cheap. The usually burly Mourvèdre varietal is tamed here,
with purple flower aromatics, juicy marionberry fruit and a lacework of
peppery spice and tannin to hold it all together. $6.99
Beretta Bianco di Custoza 2010
A charming northern Italian white that delights with aromas of fresh
hay, citrus zest and the salty spray of an ocean breeze. The just-ripe
white peach fruit is a lovely backdrop for this sensory mélange and the
lemon crème finish is tangy and refreshing. Pretty darn good for just
$8.50
Di Majo Norante Sangiovese 2009
Not as fruity as vintages past but no barnyard visit either, this still
easily wins as a tasty, traditional trattoria red and what's not to like
about that? Medium-bodied with plummy fruit some bright orange rind-y
acidity and mellow tannins on the finish. $9.99
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October 2011
For a Song Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Made by a high-scoring winery (whose name must remain a secret) this
Washington red lives up to its playful name. Firm in structure, this
plays to the dark side of Cab: black plum and deep cassis fruit with
notes of roasted coffee, leather and smoky oak, flavors that ride the
persistent tannins on the powerful finish. $11.99
Berail Lagarde Corbieres Blanc 2009
This fleshy dry white from southern France seems just the ticket as we
head into fall and cooler weather. Round and ample, the musk melon and
quince fruit flavors are joined by very mild grassy herb notes and
balancing acidity. $10.99
Celebration Beaujolais-Villages 2008
Although the name Beaujolais can conjure up light-hearted autumnal
images of grape harvests and village festivals, this ain't no Beaujolais
Nouveau. Drinking more like a single-village cru bottling, this shows
the more serious side of the region: a wine of depth and structure
sprung forth from hard granite soils and made more like red Burgundy.
With aromatics of dried flowers and incongruous root beer notes, this
has mild cherry and wild berry fruit and a brambly cola edge. Regularly
$12, out with the old and in with the new makes it just $7.99.
Telmo Rodriguez Al Muvedre 2007
A distributor-switch Spanish deal, this takes a $17 wine all the way
down to $8! Non-irrigated vines, low yields and no oak interference
allow plenty of Mourvedre varietal character to shine, but engaged
winemaking keeps the end result easy-going and appealing. Inky dark with
damp earth aromatics, the marionberry fruit is polished and smooth with
hints of cocoa and briar on the finish. Heck of a wine for only $7.99
Cosme Palacio Rioja 2006
How about this Portland favorite Rioja at a terrific price (it's
normally $17). Neither too traditional nor too modern, it offers a very
expressive nose of blue fruits and refined oak spice that continue on
the palate. Medium-bodied yet concentrated with a dusting of firm
tannins on the finish, this changed dramatically from start to finish,
always a welcome sign in this price range.$11.50
Titolato Strozzi Vernaccia 2009
This flavorful white comes from San Gimignano, a Tuscan village famous
for its stone towers. Aromatically complex and soft on the palate,
there's flavors of almond, honeysuckle, just-ripe apricot and white cake
(happy birthday!). This mouthful is kept lively by an undercurrent of
lemon crème acidity before gently tapering off on the whispery finish.
$10.99
Val de Salis Malbec 2009
Southern French in provenance yet a far cry from the rusticity of
Cahors, this leans more internationale in style while retaining just
enough dusty gamy earthiness to claim its EU subsidy. Floral and bright,
the raspberry and juicy red plum fruit is soft enough for casual
drinking but offers a handle of tannin that starts mid-palate and
lingers on the finish. $9.99
Hermanos Frias Rioja Blanco 2010
"I'm surprised at how good this is" commented one taster - a great
reaction, right? Of course now I've blown the surprise... Anyway, this
has much more going on than one would expect for $10. The powdered sugar
green apple jolly rancher flavors turn to white peach and pear
mid-palate before finishing with a brisk lemony iced tea note. $9.99
La Celestiere Vdp Vaucluse 2009
This Rhone red is pure country wine, slightly rustic and unvarnished,
and thank God for that. One whiff transports you to the vineyard and all
its accompanying scents: lavender, thyme, marjoram, dusty earth ...
happily the palate doesn't quash these with overripe fruit.Rather it
accentuates the aromatics by staying high-toned and offering its own red
vermouth botanical notes to the bright red berry fruit. Chewy yet
medium-bodied, this is versatile enough to pair with many a dish. $9.99
Stephen Vincent Crimson 2009
Pull out your old King Crimson LPs and pour a few fingers of this, a
mellow yet juicy Cali. blend of Syrah and Petite. The soft wash of
blueberry and marionberry fruit is buffered by brambly spice notes,
subtle fresh acidity and a happy cherry cola vibe. $11.99
Colosi Nero d'Avola 2008
A big Sicilian mouthful of fruit, this is rolling in dusty black cherry
and spicy plum that is smooth on top and firm underneath. Sun-drenched
notes of cured meat and Mediterranean savory herb say cue up the hearty
pastas. $9.99
La Chablisienne St. Bris 2010
Sauvignon Blanc from Chablis...let's see, will this be dry? Heck yeah!
And crisp, minerally, zippy, bright...you get the idea. From a tiny
appellation and little seen in Portland, this is awfully refreshing and
festive. $11.50
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November 2011
Brooks Amycus 2008
One of our favorite NW whites, this is modeled on Alsatian Edelswicker,
blends of regional varietals designed for daily drinking in which the
variety of flavors makes for more interesting drinking than any one
varietal on its own. This 2008 has autumn drinking written all over it
with amazing aromatics and loads of citrus (orange peel, tangerine,
grapefruit) to jazz up the white peach and pear plumpness. An easy
crowd-pleasing T-day choice especially if you want to go local. $11.99
Domaine des Forges Anjou red 2010
Not often seen this side of the Atlantic, Anjou rouge is Loire Valley
Cabernet Franc and this new arrival from a small local importer is a
nice example. Aromatic with mild pepper and savory notes, the fruit is
just-ripe black cherry, tangy and fresh, with light tannins on the
finish. $9.99
Bacchantes Côtes du Rhône 2009
Juicy and open-knit, this very Grenache-y red offers ripe strawberry
and dark cherry fruit with mild cinnamon and licorice notes before
firming up gently on the finish. Easy-going and accessible without being
boring. $9.99
Peachy Canyon Incredible Red 2008
Although picking Zinfandel for November could end up seeming like a
chore, the fine folks at Peachy Canyon made it easy for us- this 2008
certainly deserves its spot here. Juicy and medium-weight, there's
plenty of plush red berry fruit to keep a pre-occupied palate happy
while touches of bramble, woodsy notes and zesty spice keep it much more
than simple. $9.50
Liberty School Chardonnay 2010
A tasty Cali chard that balances light butter and oak notes with bright
citrus and apple, offering a generous mouth-feel without going
overboard. $9.99
Martin de la Garrigue Languedoc 07
Despite having a rather boring label (or simple to be polite), the wine
itself is anything but. traditional Languedoc flavors of turned earth
and a mild gamy funk have been dressed up for dinner and there is a
classiness that supersedes the basic appellation. The macerated
blackberry fruit is smooth, pretty in a rugged way and long on the
palate finishing with a cigar ash smokiness and dried cherry. $11.50
Renegade Wine Co. Red 2009
A fairly goofy label from the fun-loving guys at Washington's Sleight of
Hand winery, there's nothing too renegade about this, just a rock-solid
Cab Sauv-Merlot blend (80/20) at the right price. Medium-weight with
broad brush strokes of blacker Cab fruit and highlights of red cherry
with just a nip of vanilla oak flavors on the finish. $9.99
Sara Sangiovese 2009
This consistent favorite from the Small Vineyards crew is sporting a new
label and vintage but thankfully the quality is the same. With a little
more structure than the 2008, this is taut on the palate with good
richness and depth, the dark cherry fruit is dusted in cocoa and mild
herb and the freshness of acidity cleans the palate. $10.99
Les Perles Piquepoul 2010
Although this rarely-seen white hails from a wide-open plateau in
southern France it reminds me of Gruner Veltliner from mountainous
Austria. The surprisingly expressive nose offers white pepper,
gooseberry and lime, flavors that continue on the fresh snappy palate.
Very dry but not acidic, there is structure and power without excessive
fruitiness, traits that make it awfully interesting for just $8.99.
Archangelo Primitivo 2010
We've dropped the price on this current favorite in November
(distributor switch deal) so even more people can enjoy its southern
Italian charms. The lush blackberry headiness is balanced by a tangy red
plum elegance and floral perfume aromatics mix with notes of tobacco,
citrus and dried wild herbs. Although the fruit is rich and ripe, it
remains bright and fresh. $10.99
Anfora Tinto Alentejano 2008
Alentejano is an inland Portuguese appellation, a hot dry land of arid
soils and dust in the air. Amazingly vines thrive in such inhospitable
conditions and the quality of this wine is proof. Although comprised of
different varietals and darker in profile, this has a Bordeaux-like
personality (Lafite-Rothschild is part owner) bringing a taming elegance
to the otherwise brawny fruit. Rich and dark with black plum and savory
spice, this will be a welcome winter weather companion. $9.99
Basa Rueda 2007
Another distributor-switch deal from the winery that brought us last
month's popular Al Muvedre, we can send this out the door for pretty
much half its original price. Light zippy and refreshing (too bad summer
is over), the main varietal here is Verdejo which delivers a lemony
burst of flavor with mild cantaloupe and saline notes. Great as a light
aperitif or when you need that second (or third) bottle and want to
protect the cellar. $6.99
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December 2011
El
Chaparral Grenache 2008
A close-out deal shaves several bucks off this meaty old-vine Spanish
red giving it excellent bang-for-the-buck credentials.
Powerfully-styled, this has firm black cherry fruit and a swirl of spicy
cigar-box cedary earthy notes followed by a tangy kiss on the finish. A
big wine for $10.99
Archangelo Negroamaro 2010
We chose his Primitivo for the November case, forgetting that we had
pre-ordered this months ago, but no worries: it's just as good but the
flavor profile is quite different. Medium-weight fresh and relatively
polished, this shows more black tea, brown spice and earthy notes than
the Primitivo, flavors that are balanced by tangy macerated raspberry
fruit. $9.99
Masi Modello 2008
A producer of killer Amarone, Masi also makes this inexpensive red
perfect for washing down a pizza or two and keeping those holiday guests
lightly buzzed without breaking the bank. Offering traditional
Valpolicella flavors in a lighter mood, the dark cherry and tangy berry
fruit accented by light cinnamon notes make for a happy holiday quaffer.
$7.99
Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 10
We were pleasantly surprised at how tasty this was and how it was true
to its varietal without having taken too many trips to the veggie bar.
Showing good depth and body, there is a core of dusty wild blackberry
that is smooth and barely plush while notes of peppery savory herb and
chewing tobacco lurk in the background. $9.99
Lafleur de Haute-Serre Cahors 2008
This wine is full of surprises; not only is it a great buy (regular
price is $18), it's really classy, which is not a term often used to
describe this southern French appellation at any price. Although true to
type, there is an elegance and sense of restraint to its brooding dark
fruit and wet earth aromatics. 100% Malbec. $11.99
Virgile Costieres de Nimes Blanc 2010
This was a nice find, a pleasantly plump winter white that gives your
palate something to ruminate on while your mind is otherwise engaged
with holiday mayhem. A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, the
white peach and ripe melon/canteloupe fruit is floral and mildly spicy
and the texture succulent and intriguingly waxy. $8.99
Zellina Pinot Bianco 2010
Offering a bit more mouth-feel and flavor than their zesty Grigio, this
has lightly spiced Asian pear and crisp green apple fruit. A tasty fresh
white option when you're looking for something clean and lively but want
it to have some punch (like a fist, not a bowl of fruit juice). $8.99
Corsini Matot 2010
The "young one" returns! A popular blend of Barbera, Dolcetto and
Nebbiolo from Piedmont, the new vintage is fresh and juicy with grapey
violet aromatics and a concentrated blackberry coulis persona. Smoothly
textured yet firm just below the surface with mild spicy licorice notes
on the finish. $10.99
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2010
Despite being stricken by the southern hemisphere's penchant for animal
labels, this tastes more like it hails from the Rhone. (I guess the
winemaker and marketing team should discuss desired identity). Both deep
and open-knit, the aromatics are all purple flowers and brambly spice
while the palate offers saturated red fruit with a slightly gamy edge.
$9.99
Ponga Sauvignon Blanc 2010
With a name like Ponga and a fluorescent orange label, you can guess
what's coming next right? Yes, zippy and zesty to be sure but this new
arrival boasts decent fleshiness and even a flinty bite on the finish
adding interest to the lime and nectarine spark of flavors. Wintertime
palate fatigue? A glass of this will change that. $9.99
Compass Cabernet Sauvignon 09
A small Sonoma winery is behind this innocuous-looking California label
and the quality is higher than expected for the price. A stylish
Cabernet that isn't overblown, this is medium-bodied and balanced with
high-toned red cassis and darker plum fruit mixed with lots of spicy oak
notes. $9.99
+ & + Cava Brut NV
In our blind taste-off we were down to this: a zippy citrusy racehorse
of a sparkler and its stylistic opposite, a boisterous mouthful of
caramel and cognac. Both had its fans but as we re-tasted, Señor
Boisterous started to fall apart like a fancy-looking toy that breaks
the first time you play with it, while this one kept getting better and
better. From a family estate that specializes in Cava, you can tell that
care went into its making, even at this price. A blend of the
traditional Spanish varietals used for sparkling (Parellada, Xarello,
and Macabeo), this offers a refinement more often found in more
expensive bubblies without sacrificing flavor pizzazz. Creamy and
balanced, with fresh lime and nectarine notes and a sweet-tart
playfulness, this is classy fizz for the dough. $9.99
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