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Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.
| 2002 July | 2002 September | 2002 November |
| 2002 August | 2002 October | 2002 December |
July
2002
Franck Peillot Altesse (Roussette de Bugey) 2000
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Curious about white varietals beyond standards such as chardonnay and sauvignon blanc but already checked out viognier, gruner veltliner, vermentino, and even other non-V sounding exotics? Enter Altesse, the local name for Roussette (which itself is barely familiar). Don’t worry, it’s not going to be the “next big thing” because there is not much produced. What it is though is an intriguing and almost forgotten wine that offers a true sense of place, namely Bugey.
Bugey is a small area between the Savoie and Jura regions of northeastern France, whose wines are little known outside of the region, except the bistros of nearby Lyon, France’s gastronome capital. Winemaker Franck Peillot has four generations of family winemaking in his blood and maybe better yet, their old vines. These old vines coupled with low yields and high ripness produces a concentrated flavorful wine that is still balanced and lively.
So...what does it taste like it? Its peach and apricot flavors are reminiscent of pinot gris but with more body, yet somehow a more tangy liveliness. This lack of easy description begs always another sip and is part of the fun. After all, that’s the point, isn’t it? $14.99/$12 case.
Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 1999 - Six months ago, this little-known cab won a tasting. No big deal. A few months later, same thing. People were picking up on it but still not outrageous. Then I hear a great story, mythic perhaps in its own way. In preparation for sumptuous dinner party for Very Important People, the host, otherwise known as Bill Gates, had agents seek out as many Washington Cabs as they could find for a blind tasting in order to offer the best one to his distinguished guests (how do I get that job?). Guess who won.
Now it is sold out at the winery, and soon will be in Portland. Fact or fiction, perhaps a little of both? You decide. Either way, it is a fantastic bottle of cabernet: plush, velvety smooth, and full of dark fruits, mocha, and toasty oak. If you missed our “Can’t get Cab” tasting, here’s a chance to get a possible future contestant.
$34.99/$28 case.
Château La Canorgue Luberon Rosé 2001 - $14.99/ $12 case
Bergerie de l’Hortus Languedoc Rosé
2001 - $11.99/$9.50 case
Mas Champart St. Chinian Rosé
2001 - $11.99/$9.50 case
All three of these summertime favorites are back in stock and ready for immediate consumption. Each one is dry and refreshingly delicious, offering up light red fruit flavors and thirst quenching goodness. Rosés say “summer” more than any other wine, and the key to enjoying them is not expecting too much, but rather viewing them in context of time and place, namely summer and out-of-doors. Like many things (turkey at Thanksgiving, champagne on New Year’s Eve), what they represent is ultimately worth more that what they are. With fewer and fewer traditions to mark the passage of seasons, a cold glass of rosé in the garden makes one realize and be thankful it’s summer before it’s gone.
Wines to
Beat the Heat
Edna Valley Chardonnay 2000 -
Edna Valley has long been one of our favorite Chardonnay producers due to their elegant Burgundian style that has plenty of intense flavor and complexity without being heavy. Their location practically on the Pacific coastline gives them an extremely long growing season thanks to cooling breezes which helps develop flavor as well as acidity. The 2000 vintage has enticing ripe tree fruit flavors balanced by lively citrus-tinged acidity. Notes of oak pop in and out but never dominate. Also highly praised by both
The Wine Spectator and Robert Parker, this was a good value at its regular price around $16 but is a total deal this month with a lower price in order to introduce their new syrah.
Speaking of, their 2000 Syrah is a serious effort, being more robust, meaty and smoky than many California versions, yet retaining it’s telltale lush texture. This month, both wines are just
$12.99/ $10.50 case.
J. Christopher Christo Misto 2001 -
Inspired by the white wines of the Friuli region of Italy, Jay Somers blends 55% sauvignon blanc, 30% pinot gris (grigio), 12% chardonnay, and 3% riesling to achieve this classy summer wine. Clean, crisp and bright, the somewhat uncommon blend keeps things interesting for your taste buds without overtaxing your brain.
$11.99/$9.60 case. Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2001
- Intense and vibrant white from New Zealand with amazing grapefruit flavors, this was a 1st place class winner recently. Although focused like a laser beam, there is enough body to sink one’s teeth into, ending with a long mouth-tingling finish.
$13.99/$11 case.
INDEX
August
2002
Woodward Canyon Pre-Arrival
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Woodward Canyon Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 will be released September 1st. Similar to here in the Willamette Valley, 2000 was another great vintage, not as warm as ’98 but not as cool as ’99. Talking with winemaker Rick Small and sensing his excitement for the wine, it promises to be another in a long string of top quality wines from this vaunted producer. With lower yields and later harvest dates, the goal was excellent concentration while retaining clear definition. So far, he has not let us down as the wine is always fabulous and always sells quickly.
Artist Series Cabernet 2000 $33/$365 (reg. $38.99)
Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2001 $27/$295 (reg. $30.99)
1997 Brunello di Montalcino - They are here and mostly going quickly. After a blind tasting of eight available wines, we do not consider hyperbolic James Suckling’s (of The Wine Spectator) comment “these are truly great wines and probably the best expression of Sangiovese ever” or his overall vintage rating of 99 points. All the wines were of the highest quality, and taster’s preferences were mainly based on style. Below are some quick notes on the top rated wines from this tasting and/or newly arriving wines with “decent” availability. Call or come by for up to date info.
La Fortuna – Favored for its flashy sexy style, this had most of its components already perfectly lined up, with delicious
now results.
Camigliano – Another crowd favorite with its dark thick ripe heady fruit that gives some immediate pleasure now, and promises much more to come.
Altesino – Slightly tighter than the above (very understandable) but with more perfumed aromatics, wood spice notes, and wonderful mouth-feel.
Argiano – (not tasted, review from Wine Spectator) Very jammy on the nose, with strawberries and mint. Full-bodied and very polished, with loads of fruit and velvety
tannins. Other producers are available in small quantities, call or visit for info.
Summer Loving
(Baba) O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2001 -
The official pinot noir of the Who’s new tour is back in stock only a week and already cases are flying out the door. The 2000 was our best-selling pinot last fall until it ran out, and we expect the 2001 to be the same. If there is one dominant feature to Maestro David O’Reilly’s wines, it is their palate-massaging texture. Silky smooth and supple with weight, depth, and breadth; it’s like measuring a large three-dimensional object. Throw in a perfumed bouquet of violets and roses along with juicy cherry and strawberry fruit and you have yourself a clear winner. Although it’s one of the youngest pinot noirs currently available, it is made in a drink-me-now style that is hard to resist.
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
Txomin Etxaniz Txakoli de Guetaria 2001 -
No, that’s not one long typo, nor are your eyes going bad (not that quickly anyway). Everybody’s favorite Basque white wine, as the importer likes to say, is a blend of two grapes that are just as difficult to pronounce as the wine itself, Hondarribi beltz and Hondarribi zuri, but after you throw caution to the wind and down a few glasses you’ll think you can pronounce them just fine. Coming from vineyards clinging to the spectacular Pyrennes mountains where they fall into the Atlantic, Txakoli (pronounced something like chack-o-li) is a perfect August wine, somewhat lower in alcohol, bright and crisp with fresh grapey tangy flavors and similar to Portugal’s Vinho Verde, slightly pétillant (sparkling). Refreshing and quite simply delicious, Portland is lucky to even have some imported as most of it is consumed in the Basque region, notably at Arzak the three Michelin-starred restaurant/mecca of Basque cuisine in San Sebastian where it is the house wine.
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
Fife Zinfandel Mendocino County Uplands 2000 -
Fife has always been one of our favorite zinfandel producers but unfortunately hasn’t been in the Portland market for a few years. Now it’s back and as good as ever. We put this bottling (Uplands) in a tasting recently to see if it was still up to snuff, and were happily relieved/surprised when it held its own against some of the big names including Turley, Ridge, and Dasche. Showing complexity, depth and even a bit of class (never easy for zin), it offered up ripe blackberry fruit tinged with bramble and peppery spice. A complete and well delineated wine from nose to finish.
$17.50/$14 by the case.
Cedrick Bardin Sancerre 2000 -
We’re always on the lookout for some quality juice from the Loire valley and this small producer caught our eye for the quality and price. Floral and honeysuckle aromatics lead to flavors from lemon-lime grapefruit to green tea and mineral notes. Although succulent and mouthwatering, there is a laser beam of acidity screaming through to give structure and liveliness. Overall, a very pretty wine that gets the taste buds racing.
$12.99/$10.35 case.
INDEX
Welcome
to the GWB family,
Amelia
Rita Kennedy
Born August 23, 2002.
Thanks to all of those who offered warm wishes, congratulations, and
support.
Hit Parade
Andrew
Rich Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2000
Simply put, this is one of the best Oregon Pinot Noir for the money.
In tasting after tasting, people are choosing this as a favorite,
regardless of price. In two blind tastings of quality (and relatively
costly) Pinot Noir worldwide, this came in 1st place both nights. The
key is intense fruit balanced by just the right amount of tannin,
acidity, and oak. It is a wine on the brink; verging on sweet ripe
cherry fruit, yet structurally held together, verging on tasting
“big” and oaky yet still seeming restrained and delicate. It is
delicious now, but shows promise of even better things to come. As with
all of his wines, Andrew here strives for balance, purity of fruit, and
a pretty yet powerful style. Once again, he has succeeded, and we are
all the gladder. $24.99/$20 by the case.
Edmond
Burle Vacqueyras 2000
Finally the wines of Edmond Burle that we tasted in France in April have
arrived. Now I just need to remember which fellow travelers on that
beautiful spring morning told me “Hold a case of this for me when it
arrives”. It seems like everyone did, and with good reason. The
southern Rhône valley was again blessed with an exceptional vintage in
2000, and Burle made some impressive wines. Out of his three wines, Côtes
du Rhône, Vacqueyras, and Gigondas, his Vacqueyras is much closer in
style to his Gigondas, but much closer in price to his Côtes du Rhône.
Edmond says that Gigondas and Vacqueyras are pretty much the same thing,
a debatable comment that nevertheless has merit regarding his wines. The
2000 is 80% grenache and 20% syrah and loaded with dark spicy fruit,
intriguing grapefruit notes, and some still young tannins. As usual, the
style is straight from the farm: dense and hearty, with aromas redolent
of the surrounding countryside. $12.99/$10.40 by the case.
Owen Roe Abbot’s Table 2001
This favorite autumn release is back, heralding cooler weather and
shorter days, all the better I suppose, to shutter oneself in from the
rain with a friend and a bottle of this. A heady blend of syrah,
zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot that redefines terms such as
“concentrated” and “fruit forward” with its ripe blackberry and
marionberry fruit. Amazingly however, the texture is ultra silky,
seamless, and at times almost weightless on the palate. The fruit all
comes from excellent vineyard sites and purchased by the acre (as
opposed to by the ton) which renders bigger yields pointless. A long
hang time guarantees all that ripe fruit, as well as complexity based on
its physiological maturity. This wine always sells out long before we
want it to; don’t miss it. $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
René
Muré Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Saint Landelin Vorbourg 1995
Alsatian fans, come on down! Due to an importer change, the
wonderful wines of René Muré are leaving Portland at giveaway prices.
Our voracious Alsatian customers gobbled up all the ’97 vintage of
this wine, prompting us to dig deeper into the list to satiate them. For
that, we thank them, because with two more years of bottle age, this is
even more impressive. My notes are scribbled as I couldn’t keep
up…luscious, viscous, layers of complexity, waves of fruit, lanolin,
creamy smooth, just enough acidity to hold the richness together.
Vibrant honeyed peach, botrytis, long intense finish. Almost Vendange
Tardive (late harvest). A beautiful wine. Parker lists the retail price
of the 1999 at $45; here’s a chance to get the 1995 for $24.99/$20
by the case.
INDEX
A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2001
Sam Tannahill, Cheryl Francis, and Bill and Debra Hatcher are the faces behind the A to Z label. Sam had a seven year stint as a winemaker for Archery Summit, Cheryl has been making wine at Chehalem for many years, and the Hatchers had been with Domaine Drouhin for thirteen years. With this new project they put on a negociant hat, bought finished wine from reputable producers (who exactly is top secret info.), and blended them. The result is an elegant pretty wine with subtle spicy aromas and high toned red fruit. Medium-bodied with depth and a classy finish, this is very tasty Oregon Pinot Noir.
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Daedalus Cellars Oregon Pinot Noir 2000
Aron Hess had been assistant winemaker at Rex Hill for several years and is now their head winemaker. Daedalus is a very small scale project of his (along with Pam Walden) and is interesting as an example of rarely getting the same style of wine in side projects as their main gig. Whereas generally speaking Rex Hill wines are fruit forward, soft and easily accessible, this wine is darker and earthier with a solid structure of acid, tannin, black cherry fruit, and toasty oak. Big in style, it will age well and satisfy those seeking a fuller bodied Pinot Noir.
$27.99/$22.40 by the case.
Affordable (and good!) alternatives to Brunello di Montalcino
We’ve been talking Brunello quite a bit lately, but admittedly some of those wines need several years to come around, not to mention that they are not the least expensive wines out there. Bert and I were discussing that sad state of affairs recently, and borrowing from his notes from last month’s Sangiovese class, came up with these two knockout wines that will give you something similar to drink for a lot less money while you wait for the big ones.
Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 1998
From another hill town in Tuscany comes this dark chewy red made with 85% sangiovese and aged two years in wood. As Bert puts it “the Bindella rocks.” Somewhat funky and sweaty (in a good way of course), with typical Italian smoky meaty notes, layers of complexity, and a big structure. It stood out in a blind tasting due to its hearty spicy full flavored profile. It will age well, but for drinking now, some actually preferred it to Brunello.
$21.99/$17.50 by the case.
San Vincenti Chianti Classico 2000
A contentious wine of sorts. Some love it, others find it a tad massive. It is HUGE for Chianti, packed with dark fruit and peppery spice. “So deep, dark, and brooding, I would swear it was a young Brunello-great blackberry fruit and smoky aromas. Top notch, but not a light pizza wine.” There is so much Chianti out there, but this one clearly stands out.
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
INDEX
November 2002
Clos du Caillou Cotes du Rhone Bouquet des Garrigues 2000
Two years running, this has been the best Cotes du Rhone in the shop, bar none. With the 2000 vintage being what it was in southern France (awesome) we were eagerly anticipating this release. Quality-wise, we were not disappointed, but quantity is another story. This drinks better than several Chateauneuf du Pape for twice the price: A velvety carpet of silken crushed berries seduces your palate, belying the power behind the pretty fruit. Truffle, oak, and roasted notes combined with a little tannin grip on the back palate shows the wine has pedigree way beyond its simple Cotes du Rhone appellation. The bad news is only two hundred cases were produced, so availability obviously is low. Grab some while you can, you won’t be disappointed.
$17.99/$14.40 case.
Balduin Von Hovel Riesling 2000
Okay, I know this is not from the celebrated 2001 vintage, but in a tasting with more than fifty 2001 Rieslings, “it made us sing” (to borrow then reverse a phrase of Bert’s). Vibrant, intense, and focused, the lime and green apple fruit is tinged with an intriguing minerality and whiffs of smoke and white spice. Despite the succulent fruit, it’s body/structure is taut and teasing, finishing dry and excuse the term, lip-smacking. Lively, refreshing, and delicious, this is a stellar wine to get things rolling on Turkey day.
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
Provenza Lugana Superiore Ca Molin 2000
Who would have thought that Trebbiano could taste so good? This dry white comes from northeastern Italy just south of Lake Garda, and is proof that with very low yields, old vines (45+), and a deft hand with the new oak, this grape can shine. More mellow and restrained than the Riesling above, it has inviting aromatics of pears, white peaches, almonds, and toasty oak. Medium bodied yet with some authoritative weight, the balanced fruit, supple mouthfeel, and lingering finish give an overall impression of polish and class. An interesting and versatile alternative to your standard white line-up.
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
Dorigo Refosco dal peduncolo rosso 2000
The Italian varietal refosco has been recognized since Roman times for making excellent wine that is deeply colored and intense. The Dorigo swept a recent wine class, stunning the eager pupils by its combination of power, class, and finesse. The aromas and flavors are incredibly complex and layered with lush supple plummy fruit, hints of almonds, and a long exotic finish. It has the focus and complexity to tie together the disparate flavors on a typical Thanksgiving plate.
$15.99/$12.75 case.
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2001
To celebrate the harvest with something closer to home, you can’t go wrong with this brand new release from eminent winemaker Russ Raney. Always an exceptional value for Oregon pinot noir, this 2001 is possibly even better yet. With riper fruit than in previous vintages for this bottling, the wine is more concentrated, more structured, and more flavorful. The bright straightforward cherry fruit is juicy, generous, and easy-drinking. Mild mushroom and spice notes are interspersed and add complexity, but the exuberant fruit is the star here. Not too heavy, not too light, it’s juuuust right.
$12.99/$10.40 case.
And now for dessert…?
Jean Sipp Gewurztraminer Vieilles Vignes 1998
Another stunning wine from one of our favorite underdog Alsatian producers. Bert’s notes from a recent blind tasting class were peppered with “yum” and “perfect”. Ripe apricots and peaches abound in this opulent and thickly-textured wine whose beautiful rose petal and spice aromatics scream from the glass. So why the question mark? Despite the honeyed and luxurious texture, this wine remains essentially medium-sweet. The impression on the palate is of a perfect balance that would work in any setting: alone, with turkey, sweet potatoes et al., or with dessert. The mild spice and not-over-the-top sweetness begs for pumpkin pie. I can hardly wait.
$17.99/$14.40 case.
Veuve Clicquot Brut - What can one say? The name (and yellow label) of the most popular Champagne in the US speaks for itself. This fabled Champagne house founded in 1772 has been treasured over the centuries and continues today to produce wines of the utmost quality and allure. Rich, round, and full-flavored, Clicquot satisfies on so many different levels. Although immediately appealing and seductive with its fruit forward accessibility interlaced with vanilla biscuit complexity, it always retains a sophistication and elegance that betrays its distinguished pedigree. This year, celebrate with the Veuve, and check out that sale price, you can’t beat it! Retail: $45 GWB: $39.99 Sale: $31.99
Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée
- Two years ago we quoted wine writer Serena Sutcliffe who said “Bollinger is not merely a champagne – it is an institution”, which certainly has become true here at GWB. Always one of our best-selling Champagnes, the current release is intensely vibrant, shimmering like liquid diamonds. Upon tasting the new release, we couldn’t pass up featuring it again. Full-bodied and richly textured in style, Bollinger is dominated by Pinot noir and approximately 1/2 the final blend is barrel aged giving it a toasty, nutty complexity. This batch, however, seems brighter and more focused than usual, offering a lively kick that is the perfect foil to “Bolly’s” trademark slightly mature yeasty style.
Retail: $44 GWB price: $33.99 Sale price: $26.99
Duval-Leroy Cuvée Paris Brut - We poured this during our anniversary sale and people loved it. Duval-Leroy is a small family run establishment, and just recently started exporting to the US. This bottling is juicier and more medium-bodied than Clicquot or Bollinger but it is no lightweight. Bright
apple and honey notes, tiny bubbles and aromas of baking bread make this a real winner. And wait until you see the bottle! It has quickly become one of our best sellers, treat yourself and find out why.
Retail: $30 GWB: $25.99 Sale: $20.99
Roederer Estate Brut - We can’t help ourselves. Blind tasting through several bottles, we again picked the Roederer as the best sparkler in this price range. (It tastes more French than some of the French!) Although riper and juicier than last year, it still has opulence, depth, and a long intense finish. Rich focused flavors of apple butter, pear, and nuts hang on the creamy silky frame, and the finish lasts and lasts.
Retail: $22.50 GWB:$19.99 Sale: 15.99
Mont-Marçal Reserva Brut 1999 - We blind-tasted 12 different inexpensive sparklers this year and this one stood out immediately. After I did a bit of research, I wasn’t surprised. Its importer brings in world-class Spanish wines (such as Pesquera and Hidalgo sherries), and I found a Parker quote: This offering is the best Spanish sparkler I have tasted. Hmmm... Produced by Methode Champenoise (2nd fermentation occurs in the bottle, as opposed to an enormous tank) the bubbles are tiny giving a smooth creamy mouth-feel. Complex and flavorful with toasty spiced apple notes, this tastes worlds better than its price would suggest.
Retail: $13 GWB:$8.99 Sale: $6.99
Great Holiday Wines: Here Today, Gone Tomorrow
Chateau de Pez St. Estephe 1999
Purchased recently by the Champagne house of Roederer, the new owners have been “tinkering in the cellar”, and it shows. They upgraded and made changes, and the new de Pez is a rising star. In our November Bordeaux class, it shocked everyone by beating out much more expensive wines. Cabernet Sauvignon predominates in St. Estephe, but this has a higher than normal percentage of Merlot which softens the hard edges of Cab. Comments included elegant, classy, first rate, balanced, spicy, toasty oak, and long rich finish. Being Bordeaux, it will age, but it is drinking wonderfully now and compared to the exorbitant prices that some 2000 Bordeaux may come in at, this is a steal.
$24.99/$240 per case (and since this is Bordeaux, you get one of those wood boxes that people are always lusting after.)
L’Ecole No. 41 Schoolhouse Red 2001
This juicy, almost scrumptious, blend used to be only sold at the winery, and we had to turn people away who had heard the rumors of its quality. No longer. It’s here, for a while anyway, and it is as good as people say it is. Gobs of bright berry fruit mixed with subtle oak in a smooth and supple package. Very appealing and very popular.
$17.99/ $173 case.
Marquis Phillips Shiraz 2001
This is an easy one. For those who enjoy densely packed, opulent, and luscious wines, this can’t be beat. The most recent Wine Advocate had Parker gushing about this wine as ’probably one of the greatest red wine values in existence’. Rating it a 93 and using words such as stunning, superb, and seamless, he says it drinks like a $50 wine. We think you’ll agree, but don’t dally, with praise like that it won’t be around for long.
$14.99 (6 bottle limit).
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