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Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.
| 2003 Jan/Feb | 2003 March | 2003 April | |
| 2003 May | 2003 June | 2003 July | 2003 August |
| 2003 September | 2003 October | 2003 November | 2003 December |
January/February
Rhone Valley Redux
The word on the street is that more
Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape 1999 (Wine Spectator Wine of the Year) is arriving in January. Along with it comes the
2000 vintage which was a better vintage overall and received better reviews than the 1999 from Parker’s Wine Advocate. Quantities for both are limited, and both should retail right under $30. Call or stop by for more information or to place an order.
We also might be receiving more of the spectacular
Clos du Caillou Bouquet des Garriques 2000, and if so, availability should be good through February.
International Red Values
Travignoli Chianti Rufina
2001 -
This is a great value Chianti from the Rufina zone just northeast of Florence. There is so much variability in Chianti that it isn’t easy to just order one and know what to expect, especially in this price range. The Travignoli has a beautiful rich body and flowing texture but none of the heaviness that can sometimes be found in wines from the Rufina zone. Bright cherry and black currant fruit are followed by a very subtle earthiness and soft tannins.
$9.99/$7.99 by the case.
Desvignes Morgon Cote du Py Javernières 2000 -
Wines from the Morgon Cru in Beaujolais are some of the longest lasting; a customer recently had a bottle of this in France, from the 1976 vintage! Beaujolais Nouveau it ain’t. The Javernières vineyard is located in the Cote du Py on the Montagne de Py in the center of Morgon, which produces better quality fruit than the surrounding vineyards. This bottling is surprisingly powerful and full bodied while maintaining a supple gracefulness, and is chock-full-of dark cherry, raspberry and cassis fruit. If you have the patience and trust, hold on to a few bottles and allow them to pinotize (the term used in Beaujolais) when they will become similar to fine red Burgundy, with more mellow coffee and earthy notes.
$14.99/$11.99 case.
Bodegas Breton “Lorinon” Crianza Rioja 1999 -
Tradition meets the modern in this well balanced, hearty yet multifaceted Spanish red. Comprised mostly of Tempranillo and aged in American oak, this wine offers a lush mouth-feel filled with black cherry, cinnamon and clove spice, and a roasted wood smokiness. It is not overly oaky but hints of vanilla are evident especially on the finish. Although seemingly soft and supple, there is enough tannin and acid structure to hold it all together.
$11.99/$9.50 case.
Owen Sullivan Red Table Wine 2000 -
This is much closer to home, Owen Sullivan being on Vashon Island just outside of Seattle. This blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot shows off the power and richness that comes from marrying Syrah with Cabernet, while the Merlot softens it up just a bit. Full bodied, dark, and dense fruit is complemented by sandalwood and peppery spice. Relatively chewy for a Washingtonian, this is a winter wine that you can really sink your teeth into.
$15.99/$12.75 by the case.
Montaribaldi Barbera d’Asti La Consolina 2001 -
Fruit forward, easy-drinking, and delicious were a few of the comments this wine elicited. Medium bodied and more approachable than some heartier versions, this has all the charm and appeal of Barbera without excessive earthiness, tannin, or acid. Bright red fruits, subtle licorice notes, and a finish that leaves you wanting another glass.
$9.99/$7.99 case.
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March
2000 Vintage Bordeaux
- The hullabaloo surrounding this mythic vintage has been swirling for almost two years and finally the wines are beginning to arrive. Hype such as Wine Spectator’s cover “The Best Vintage since 1961” coupled with feverish futures buying has pushed prices upward, but as always there are the little-noticed gems (“sleepers” as Parker likes to say) that can be found. Even if you only buy Bordeaux occasionally, you should not miss experiencing such an exciting vintage.
Chateau La Garde Pessac–Leognan 2000 -
Pessac-Leognan is an appellation just south of the Bordeaux city limits in the large area known as Graves. Ownership changed hands in 1990 and since then quality has increased year after year. In his book on Bordeaux, Robert Parker lists this as the most underrated winery of the appellation. Not surprisingly, the 2000 made his “sleepers of the vintage” list where “top quality intersects with value”. “This remarkably extracted heavyweight possesses an opaque purple color as well as huge ripeness, richness, and chewiness that are atypical for this appellation. With medium to full body, moderate tannin, and impressive length, this sleeper of the vintage will surprise many. 89-91 pts.” Considering the overheated Bordeaux market, we are thrilled to be able to offer this.
$22.99/$18.35 by the case.
Chateau Les Grands Maréchaux Premières Côtes de Blaye 2000 -
Another excellent buy from a lesser-known appellation, this winery is located across the Gironde river from Margaux and other Médoc communes. Since Merlot is the dominant grape in this area, wines from this appellation tend to be earlier-drinking and less austere than those from across the river. The recent Wine Spectator Bordeaux issue had this to say: “Beautiful aromas of bright berries and Indian spices, with a hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, silky finish. 88 pts.”. This is very high quality for the price; as my importer said to me “you can’t go wrong with the Grands Maréchaux”. Indeed.
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Kees-Kieren Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2001 -
Believe the hype. In tasting after tasting of 2001 German Rieslings, almost every wine has been delicious. Unable to choose between so many awesome wines, some tasters have practically bought at random. The Kees-Kieren, however, is a new arrival that recently won the hearts, palates (and wallets) of virtually everyone in this particular tasting. Graacher Himmelreich belongs to the group of Germany’s pre-eminent vineyards located on the ultra-steep slate slopes of the Mosel river. How steep? They harvest the grapes using tow ropes! This wine displays such vibrant intensity, purity of fruit, and incredible balance for the price that even reluctant Riesling drinkers had to yield a smile.
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Chateau St. Martin de la Garrigue Bronzinelle Coteaux du Languedoc 2001
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This perennial best-seller always seems to get a blowout review...right after it is sold out. Quite inconvenient, really, so this is fair warning. The 2001 is as good as ever: dark and heady yet with a polished luscious texture. Aromatics of kirsch and garrigue (the wild herbs that give the winery its name) lead to sappy black raspberry fruit, peppery and just a bit chewy, and the finish is like a pool cue, long and smooth. A superb blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and old-vine carignan.
$14.99/$11.99 case.
And the #1 wine is…(Notes on winners from our classes)
René Muré Lutzeltal Tokay Pinot Gris 1999 -
Yet another Muré bargain dragged out of the warehouse to the delight of Alsatian fans everywhere. Due to a distributor change, this is priced at about two-thirds the regular price, and when it is a great bottle even at that price...you can’t lose! Typical Muré style here: voluptuously textured, the complexity of flavors runs the gamut from apricot, orange peel, and honey to slate and spice nuances. Although it is lush, plush, and weighty, enough vibrant acidity sings above the chorus of flavors to keep it lively.
$16.99/$13.60 by the case.
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April
Cherrywood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2001 -
Many Willamette Valley Pinot Noir producers are getting on the value bus with new “Second Label” releases, which is often juice culled from their regular higher-priced offerings (one is even wryly named “Deuxième Etiquette” which literally means “Second Label” in French). Cherrywood, which is made by Patton Valley Vineyards in Gaston, is an excellent example of the quality/value ratio that is the hoped-for hallmark of these wines. The 2000 sold out very quickly and this new release is moving fast as well. Medium-bodied and focused, it is relatively forward and generous for pinot noir with its range of black and red fruit flavors complemented by jabs of spice and oak notes. Classy yet flavorful, complex yet easy-going, an all-around winner.
$15.99/$12.70 by the case.
J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2001 - Another excellent value in Oregon Pinot Noir, this also has been an impressive bottling for the last few vintages. Darker and bigger-bodied than the more mellow Cherrywood, this is plump with black cherry fruit, more noticeable oak, and a long finish of shifting flavor dimensions. Although this is not a second label wine, some juice was diverted from single vineyard bottlings in order to really make this a fantastic deal.
$17.99/$14.35 by the case.
Sineann Pinot Gris Oregon 2002-2002 already? -
Yep, one of our favorite (and best-selling) Oregon whites has just been released, offering a delicious first look at 2002, a vintage that many winemakers (and wine lovers) are eagerly anticipating. If you are familiar with previous vintages, the 2002 is similarly beautifully aromatic and rich, its lush fruit bursting with pear, melon, and white peach notes. It finishes slightly drier and more intensely than the 2001, making it, in some people’s opinion, a better wine. If you are not familiar with previous vintages, do yourself a favor and get on down here and try some!
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Chateau Vieux Chevrol Lalande de Pomerol 2000 -
The 2000 vintage Bordeaux wines continue to slowly roll in (next month will bring many more), and the quality is truly living up to the hype. Lalande de Pomerol is a lesser-known commune just north of Pomerol on the right bank where Merlot is the predominant varietal. Because they are less famous than their southern neighbor, they can offer excellent value for comparable quality. This wine comes from a small traditionally-run estate that has been in the family for generations. With an average vine age of 30 years, no chemical pesticides and a late harvest, the purity of the fruit shines through. Medium to full bodied with red berry and plum fruit that is velvety and mouth-filling. Although its density suggests that it will taste even better in a few years, there is a giving open-ness which is immediately appealing.
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon DuBrul Vineyard 2001 -
We are extremely pleased to have some of this to offer as the ridiculously low production (144 cases) sells out immediately from the winery (being the highest rated Washington Cab in 1999 [Wine Spectator] doesn’t hurt). This remarkable wine, one of the best that Washington has to offer, is a paean to poise, balance, power and longevity. Violently low yields from an almost barren rocky hilltop vineyard produce tiny concentrated grapes of stunning complexity.
Very Limited. $59.99.
Recent Class Hits and Other Winners
Fairview/Charles Back Goat-Roti 2001 - Perhaps you’ve chuckled at the irreverent “Goats do Roam” wines, the South African Rhone imposters that are actually quite good. Well, the “council of Billy goats” (as the label proclaims) has upped the ante, making a Cote-Rotie look-alike that is amazingly good. Complex and flavorful, the dark brooding blackberry fruit and peppery spice may not be a dead ringer for the Northern Rhone, but it comes awfully close. Syrah, Mourvedre and Viognier. $17.99/$14.35 by the case.
Silvano Strologo “Julius” Rosso Conero 2000 -
Wildly popular quintessential Italian red from the calf of Italy that is intense and packed with complex flavors. Made from 100% Montepulciano grapes, it’s description reads like a grocery list of what so many people look for in Italian reds: deep dark color, aromatics of freshly tilled black earth and spice, and smoky meaty notes wrapped around a core of black cherry and mulberry fruit. Considering all that power, there is no impression of aggression; the feeling is rather of a soft spoken seriousness and authenticity.
$11.99/$9.60 case.
Lake Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 1999 -
An underdog wine that seems to always fly just beneath the radar, that is until we put it in a class or tasting. Then a flurry of activity follows after which it recedes into the background again. Alexander Valley is “big California Cabernet Country” as the bumper sticker might read, and the fruit from this wine comes from vineyards very close to the famed Silver Oak vineyards. Big and extracted cassis and black plum fruit flavors are complemented by well-integrated oak and mint notes. If you’re looking for bold and brawny as opposed to some juicier California offerings, look no further.
$19.99/$15.99 case.
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May
Rhône Revelry
This time last year we were packing our bags for a wonderful wine romp through the storied countryside of the Rhône valley and Provence. Although no trip was feasible this year (couldn’t leave the 8-month-old home alone yet), thanks to the wonderful art of freight transport we can reminisce and travel with our taste buds without leaving Portland. These three new arrivals offer exceptional bang-for-the-buck, which is part of this region’s enduring appeal.
Domaine Les Aphillantes Côtes du Rhône Villages Cuvée des Galets
2000 -
A new producer and quickly rising star in the southern Rhône, winemaker Daniel Boulle used to sell his grapes to a local cooperative until friends familiar with his incredible fruit convinced him to bottle it on its own. Boulle is first and foremost a
vigneron, the French term for wine-grower with connotations more of grape farmer than winemaker, which his style reflects. Extremely low yields of ripe fruit and minimal intervention produces concentrated powerful wines. This cuvée is comprised of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre, and is relatively open and immediately gratifying for such a powerful wine. Characteristic Grenache perfume, sweet berry and cherry notes and a sun-drenched warm quality makes this difficult to resist. $17.99/ $14.35 by the case.
Domaine Les Aphillantes Côtes du Rhône Villages Cuvée Trois Cépages
2000 -
This cuvée is a blend of equal parts Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre and all three are harvested at the same time in October. Normally only the late-ripening Mourvedre is still on the vine at this point, and the extra hangtime for the Grenache and Syrah is evident in the power this very ripe fruit possesses. Similar flavor profile as above but denser and if possible, more concentrated. We agree with Parker’s 92 point review, this is an exceptional wine for the money. $21.99/$17.60 by the case.
Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes 2001 -
This name certainly is familiar as it is consistently one of our best selling Côtes du Rhônes, although due to sad circumstances, changes have taken place at this top producer. Winemaker Jean-Denis Vacheron was killed last year in a car accident and 2001 was his last vintage. If you have followed this winery the last few years, you know the quality has risen immensely. If you are a Rhône fan and have not had the pleasure, the time is now. I quote Rhône fanatic Robert Parker: “The 2001 Côtes du Rhônes from Caillou are as sensational, perhaps even better than the 2000s. These wines would embarrass many Châteauneuf du Papes and
Gigondas.” The sheer opulence and richness go way beyond its simple CdRhône appellation, as does the complexity of flavors including black/red berries,
garrigue herbs, spice, and roasted notes. $17.99/$$14.35 by the case.
Early Summer Drinking
Cameroni Giovanni Pinot Bianco 2002 - We always look forward to this release, partly because it means summer will soon be here but also because it’s such a joy to drink. Bright and vivacious with green apple notes, it has just enough juicy fruit to sink your teeth into but overall remains dry and clean. A dash of Chardonnay was added this year for a rounder fleshier texture, but its still light on its feet, or on your palate, as the case may be. $11.99/$9.60 by the case.
Martinsancho Rueda Verdejo 2001 -
Intriguingly authentic Spanish white whose cavalcade of aromatics include floral and mineral notes, as well as a citrus tanginess. On the palate the wine is creamy and smooth, with the mineral notes almost turning to juniper and mild herb. Intense and seemingly ripe fruit finishes quite dry but the flavors return for reprise after reprise. Organically grown in (basically) gravel at high elevation, this wine is traditional in every good sense of the word, which is becoming all too rare these days. $12.99/$10.40 by the case.
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June
Edmond Burle Gigondas 2000 $15.99/ $12.80 by the case.
We’ve waxed poetic many times about the wines of Edmond Burle whose
rustic style seems to go back centuries. They have always been
remarkable values for the quality and authenticity, yet this month the
pot sweetens further; The 2001 has arrived and it’s time to move out
the handful of cases left of the outstanding 2000. In a blind tasting
last autumn, almost everyone there bought at least a few bottles. Chewy,
hearty, and full of life, this wine is straight out of the French
countryside, redolent of herbes de provence and peppery blackberry
fruit. With plenty of tannin, this is excellent with full-flavored
grilled meats such as lamb with rosemary. Not only will it cellar well
for years, it’s THE perfect choice for drinking over a couple of days;
it’s almost better the second day! Decant it, or give it some time to
open up in big glasses, the changes will amaze.
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 1997 $26.99/ $21.65 by the
case. —– LIMITED ——
The infamously excellent 1997 Italian vintage rides again with this “warehouse
cleaning up” deal. Normally $36 and around $50 nationally (it is
direct-imported into Portland for better pricing), this is an awesome
deal, especially for those of you who wished you had bought more 1997
when you had the chance. With the Euro the way it is (high), I don’t
think we’ll see Barbaresco priced this low for a long time, especially
of this quality. “Extremely ripe red, yet complex, with cloves and
cinnamon. Full-bodied, with ripe and polished tannins and a long finish.
A beauty.” 90 pts. —Wine Spectator
O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir Oregon 2002 - It’s back! Our
best-selling Pinot Noir two years running has landed and is available
for immediate consumption. Every local winemaker that we have talked to
is very excited about vintage 2002 and judging from this early release
it should be a fine vintage indeed. Then again, this wine consistently
delivers high quality for a low quantity of cash. Professor David O’Reilly
crafts his wines with texture in mind, making them supple, caressing,
and inviting without being so soft that they fall apart in your mouth.
They can be so pleasurable and easy to drink that the complexity and
depth are surprising. Otherwise the fruit shines through with pretty
floral aromatics and bright strawberry flavors. Load up, kick back, and
relax. $12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Arregi Txakoli de Getaria 2002 - Another encore performance from
a wine who had a short life span last summer (kind of like Portland
summers in general) as it sold out in a few weeks. As our importer likes
to say, Txakoli is everyone’s favorite Basque white wine (“everyone”
being vaguely defined), and although you might need to polish off a
bottle or two before pronouncing it correctly, you’ll be glad you did.
Coming from vineyards clinging to the spectacular Pyrennes mountains
where they fall into the Atlantic, Txakoli (pronounced something like
chack-o-li) is the perfect summer wine, somewhat lower in alcohol,
bright and crisp with fresh grapey tangy flavors and similar to Portugal’s
Vinho Verde, slightly pétillant (sparkling). Refreshing and quite
simply delicious, Portland is lucky to even have some imported as most
of it is consumed in the Basque region. Only fifty cases were imported;
our importer says that is all Alejandro Arregi would sell outside of San
Sebastian, meaning there is likely more of this in Portland than in
Madrid. $12.99/ $10.35 by the case.
Torbreck Woodcutter’s Red Barossa Valley 2001 - It was after we
tasted this wine and loved it that I saw Robert Parker’s unyielding
praise for this winemaker: “the spectacular current and upcoming
releases are among the most exciting wines being made on planet
Earth...that’s how good this guy is!” Wow. This blend is
predominantly Shiraz and although it is deep, intense and velvety, it
also possesses wonderful balance and finesse especially for an
Australian Shiraz. Just the ticket when you’re hankering after a spicy
full-throttle red with a “lusty, heady finish” but the temperature
is over 85 degrees. $17.99/$14.40 case.
Domaine Terres Blanches Rosé Les Baux de Provence 2002 - Fresh
off the boat and just in time. Terres Blanches is one of our favorite
rosés year after year, being full of strawberry and raspberry fruit yet
still has the hallmarks of rosé being dry, clean, and refreshing. Of
all the rosés out there, this style is slightly darker and fuller
flavored making it a good choice for red drinkers easing into something
new. $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
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July
3 Must-Have Blockbusters
Owen Roe Abbot’s Table 2002 $19.99/ $15.99 by the case.
Very possibly the absolute best-selling wine out of this shop in years, people ask about this wine year-round unaware that there is but a few-month window when it is available. “Catnip for people” is how I describe this wine to initiates who have yet to experience the pleasure. If 2002 is the vintage that many winemakers are saying it is, this should be as great as last year, if not, is it possible, better?
Marquis Phillips Shiraz 2002, etc.* $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Parker set off a stampede last autumn when he reviewed these wines and exhorted readers to “run, don’t walk...and secure as much as you can of these wines”. With scores ranging from 92 to 96 points for $15 to $30 wines, there was a frenzy leaving many empty-handers brooding and waiting for their next chance. Here it is. Since the wines have not yet arrived, we have not tasted them nor know of any reviews except the comment from Parker last autumn: “Unbelievably, the 2002s are supposed to be even better since the vintage materials are considered phenomenal”. Don’t wait until it’s too late, these wines will sell out quickly.
*besides Shiraz, there is also Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and a blend of the three
Thorn-Clarke Shiraz Shotfire Ridge 2002 14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Ok, Ok, another teeth-stainer from down under that Parker loves, but these are hot wines and I consider it my civic duty to keep you informed. After “teeth-stainer”, what more can one say? How about “awesome, profound, astonishingly pure, riveting, don’t miss it, almost too good to be true”! Even if it’s not your style, you have to try it once to taste what could possibly elicit such praise.
Red (and White) Hot Deals
Patricia Green “Dollar Bills Only” Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2001 - Although the first thing that catches your eye is the enlarged head of Phil Collins on the jukebox on the label, he will soon be left behind as you work your way through this surprisingly dark and powerful pinot noir from the wonderful folks at Patricia Green Cellars. For those of you who like a little structure and intensity in your pinot, this has it. Culled from barrels that otherwise went into their top-notch single vineyards bottlings, this juice is admittedly not as polished or smooth as those, but it makes up for it by offering a fuller-bodied heartier-styled wine for cheap. The spicy dark cherry fruit has a young pinot’s charm, somewhat wound up and seeming in a hurry to get somewhere; Give it some time, either in your glass or in the cellar, and as all things, it will mellow.
$11.99/$9.60 case.
Vollenweider Riesling Spatlese Wolfer Goldgrube 2001 -
We had this wine in a November tasting just as people were starting to realize the awesome-ness of the 2001 vintage and it sold out that night. Rarely have I seen so many customers take a sip and immediately say “I need a case of this” or “how much of this is left”. They (and all you other Riesling fans) are in luck: 10 more cases arrived last month, giving many who missed it a second chance. Daniel Vollenweider is a young Swiss who worked with and learned from Ernie Loosen and got the opportunity of a lifetime to purchase a large part of the tiny Wolfer Goldgrube vineyard. This vineyard, which is not much more than an incredibly rocky south-facing cliff, was listed by Hugh Johnson as one of the top ten vineyards in Germany. Working with very old vines (they haven’t been replanted for ages), Vollenweider keeps yields low which produces wines of luxurious intensity and complexity. Think of why you love Riesling Spatlese and you will probably find it here. Almost immediately after his first vintage, he was hailed as one of Germany’s hot new winemakers and rising stars. Unfortunately most of his wine goes to his homeland, Switzerland; Fortunately however, we too have some.
$23.99/ $19.15 case.
Capcanes Mas Donis 2001 -
“MoRe Donuts” is back! No it’s not another new Krispy Kreme, and the Mas Donis that was corrupted into “more donuts” never actually went away but this new vintage just arrived and it is stellar– lush, mouth-filling, and complex with red berry fruit and smoky spicy undercurrents woven into a richly textured frame. Sappy, sassy, and juicy, the grip of tannins on the finish do however suggest that this wine will last for several years. Although from Spain, its 80% Grenache/ 20% Syrah composition means it has hallmarks of the southern Rhone wines including sun-drenched ripe fruit and spice-laden aromatics. 91 points from Parker.
$12.99/$10.35 case.
J. Christopher Christo Misto 2002 -
Another returning favorite that we like (really we do) more than last year’s excellent version. An intriguing blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Pinot Gris, 10% Chardonnay, and 7% Riesling, this is, as one might expect, hard to pin down, which is part of the fun. The other part is that it is deliciously refreshing, dry yet with plenty of fruit, and with a certain “snap” that is hard to find in many wines.
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
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August
Can someone call me a Cab?
Annabella Cabernet Sauvingon Napa Valley 2001 - If you did not see Matt Kramer’s review in the Oregonian and are still unaware of this spectacular deal on Napa Cab, here goes. Annabella is the creation of Michael Pozzan, a Californian who purchases extra juice from high-quality wineries that want to unload a lot of wine quickly, even if that means for a price well below their normal price (I see the spectre of Two-Buck-Chuck hovering above). This wine is definitely below its “normal” price, being as good as wines twice its price. Alluring aromatics of spice and subtle oak lead to red berry and cassis fruit on the palate. Medium bodied, the texture is silky smooth supported by just enough tannin to provide some structure. So far, so good; this wine has been selling like Bruce Springsteen concert tickets in New Jersey. Yep, that fast.
10.99/$8.79 by the case.
Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2001 -
Abeja is the long-awaited new project from winemaker John Abbot who previously made compelling wines at Canoe Ridge Vineyard, and this inaugural release does not disappoint. One aspect of John’s style that elevates the wine above the norm is that the fruit is pure and focused with highlights of bright berry and spice. Concentrated and intense but never muddled, the texture is seamlessly smooth and the finish goes on and on. Overall the impression is of elegance and balance, yet still powerful and mouth-filling. Allowing both sides of the coin to show is no easy task but here is handled with delicious aplomb.
$29.99/$23.99 by the case.
Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvigon Artist Series 2001 Pre-Arrival Offering
-
Woodward Canyon Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 will be released September 1st. In the Columbia Valley, 2001 was cooler and milder than 2000, with a burst of warm weather at the end of the growing season, not unlike 1999 in the Willamette Valley. Complexity and balance are the hallmarks of grapes grown under this type of weather, but this being Woodward Canyon, don’t exclude richness. Full bodied with ripe black cherry fruit and mocha/oak notes (say it out loud), this is another excellent offering from a consistent producer.
Orders placed prior to September 1st are at pre-arrival pricingof $33.99/$29.99 by the case.
Wines to keep you cool (and help you
look cool)
Patricia Green Sauvignon Blanc Oregon 2002 - This is a beautiful example of New World Sauvignon Blanc that isn’t trying to be a heavy oaky Chardonnay (like some California versions) nor is it screaming with enough acidity to take the enamel off your teeth. Done all in stainless steel, the fleshy white fruit flavors sing unhindered by any interfering oak. The ripe fruit does have an almost tropical-ness to it but is balanced with a clean vibrant streak of acidity, making this dangerously easy to drink on a warm summer’s eve. $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Régis Minet Pouilly Fumé Vieilles Vignes 2001 -
Now for the screaming acidity. More like screaming deal. Normally $20 but on a special direct import deal, Pouilly Fumé of this quality is never this inexpensive. But getting back to the acidity comment, this is classic Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, bright, steely and focused, with a tell-tale mineral component. In a December tasting most people loved it (at $20), but there were a few who found it too austere. Austere, yes, but complex, subtle, and entirely more suitable for August than December. In a 90 point Wine Spectator review, they called it “character-filled” and
“lovely.” Break out the chèvre, and have yourself a picnic. $14.50/ $11.60 by the case.Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley 2001 -
O Canada! The Okanagan Valley wines have been sought after for some time, but Portland had the hardest time getting (then keeping) them in. Finally it looks as if we have a window of opportunity here, not only for the fun of trying something new but because the wine is very good. Tinhorn Creek is an old gold mining creek in British Columbia; when they done dug out all that gold, they turned to producing liquid gold. The fragrance of ripe peaches and tropical fruits waft from the glass, and the fruit is lush and weighty on the palate, but the wine and its long succulent finish is surprisingly dry and crisp. If you’re an Oregon or Alsatian Pinot Gris fan, this is right up your alley. $13.50/$10.80 by the case.
Chateau Val Joanis Cotes du Luberon Rosé 2002 - $9.99/$7.99 case.
Chateau Mourgues du Gres Costieres de Nimes Rosé 2002 - $11.99/$9.60 case.
It’s the year of the Rosé. After being hidden in closets and being laughed off wine lists for years, people are reawakening to the carefree pleasure of drinking a glass of cold refreshing pink wine when the weather discourages almost anything else. Everyone has been surprised by their popularity this summer, none more than some of the customer’s who are now hooked: “I would have never drank this a few years ago” is one of the comments I’ve heard. Both these newcomers are Provençal rosés in the classic tradition: dry with subtle and pretty red fruit flavors which are fresh, inviting, and satisfy both body and soul. The Mourgues is a little richer and fruitier with a more obvious red fruit component. As I’ve written before, rosés say “summer” more than any other wine, and the key to enjoying them is not expecting too much, but rather viewing them in context of time and place, namely summer and preferably out-of-doors. A cold glass of rosé in the garden makes one take notice and be thankful it’s summer before it’s gone.
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September
A quick look at some new & noteworthy releases
Sineann ‘O’ Zinfandel Old Vines 2002 - $34.99
Everyone’s favorite NW monster Zinfandel is back ready to coat your palate in berry-infused cocoa butter.
Marquis Phillips Shiraz 9 2002 - $34.99
Marquis Phillips Cabernet Sauvignon S2 2002 - $27.99
The results are in; This Aussie duo again strikes gold with stratospheric scores from Parker (96 for the Shiraz, a more modest 92 for the Cab) due to their intense flavors and mind-boggling concentration. Both very limited.
Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 - $59.99
The string of superb southern Rhone vintages (‘98, ‘99, ‘00, ‘01) comes to an end with the catastrophic floods of 2002. How catastrophic? Apparently Vieux Télégraphe (and other producers) will not even release a 2002, which makes this your last chance to feel telegraphically papal for a couple of years. Limited.
A to Z Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 - $16.99
The 2002 vintage in Oregon is showing promise as is evident in this second offering from these alphabet-crazy winemakers. Aromatic, fleshy and relatively packed (for Pinot anyway) with red and black fruits, I think this will prove to be very popular.
Chateau St. Martin de la Garrigue Bronzinelle Coteaux du Languedoc 2001 - $14.99
Not a new release, just back in stock after a 6-month hiatus. We had many requests after we sold out so I wanted to put the word out. Dark and heady yet with a polished luscious texture, this is a superb blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and old-vine carignan.
Understated Excellence that Surprises and Delights
Paul Autard Cotes du Rhone 2001
Like many wine drinkers, I love Cotes du Rhone red wines. Not only are they worthy in and of themselves, usually offering excellent price to quality ratio, they are also the wines I cut my teeth on, so to speak. But as with many things, after a while a sort of complacency can set in until something comes along to rekindle the passion. This is that sort of wine: a classy well-crafted stunner whose depth and flavor complexity sneak up on you. This is not a heavy juicy-styled Rhone (although those can be nice too) but rather traditional in the sense that it’s medium-bodied and plays down the fruit component, offering instead a variety of nuanced flavors, none of which completely overwhelms another. Kirsch (sweet cherry), smoky roasted notes, mineral, savory aromatics and peppery spice, all rooted with underlying power and grip. A sensational Rhone red for the money. $10.99/$8.79 by the case.
Rolly Gassmann Riesling Silberberg de Rorschwihr 1996
This surprise runaway hit in a recent tasting should not really be much of a surprise. It’s Rolly Gassmann after all, whose wines delight Alsatian fans every time we have them. Why then the surprise? Overshadowed by better-known Alsatian
domaines, “the Gasman” operates in relative obscurity for a few reasons; he pulls a Paul Masson and releases wines when he decides they are ready (this 1996 is a current release!) and gets few reviews in the press. That, coupled with his fair pricing leads one to the common suspicion: An older vintage from a unknown producer at a low price can’t possibly be very good. Wrong! The style is unapologetically fleshy, full of ripe picked-fruit flavors (peach, pear) but balanced by vibrant acidity. The overall impression is racy and focused with plenty of rich fruit along for the ride on this “rolly” coaster. It showed better than similar wines at nearly twice the price. $21.99/ $17.60 by the case.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2000
Although this took first place in a January wine class and again in a subsequent Chianti tasting, I have shied away from touting it too highly because its elegance is almost un-Chianti-ish. But after re-tasting it recently, I changed my mind. It’s a beautiful wine, balanced and complex, with pretty cherry fruit and mild smoky mineral spice. Yes, there are hints of oak, mocha, and tannin (and more), but it’s no blockbuster; everything is there in the right proportion, the flavors complement instead of compete. Although this small winery has gotten some great reviews (their “Super Tuscan”
Cepparello was the Wine Spectator #3 wine of the year in 1999) they have not “super-sized” their wines, but remain true to their elegant style. Very food friendly. $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Mitolo Jester Shiraz McLaren Vale 2002
Ok, so Australian shiraz is not usually mentioned in the same breath with “understated” unless to say that it is not so. But although this wine may not be completely understated, keep in mind that everything is relative. The 2001 Jester was a big hit and sold out too quickly. The 2002 just arrived and has a similar style: the dense and concentrated black fruit is balanced by light perfume and a silky yet firm texture. Mitolo’s goal is elegance and power (in that order) that shows off their incredible old-vine fruit with out needing to cut it with water. $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
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A Trio of Twofers
Two New 2002 from Owen Roe
Sinister Hand Syrah Grenache Columbia Valley 2002 - From the folks who bring you Abbot’s Table and other delectables comes the palate-busting Sinister Hand, appropriately titled for all your Halloween revelry. Ripe rich and brooding, the pretty strawberry and raspberry-tinged grenache perfume is bolstered by the powerful density of the spicy syrah. Like all their wines, the texture is silky smooth, which helps this definitely full-bodied wine glide effortlessly down the gullet. $17.99/$14.40 case
Syrah DuBrul Vineyard/Rosa Mystica Block Yakima Valley 2002 - This is Owen Roe’s top Syrah bottling, the fruit being sourced from their two best vineyards, DuBrul and the Rosa Mytica Block. Both are high elevation sites which allows longer hangtime which translates to more flavor development and complexity. Dubrul in particular is a rocky hilltop vineyard where the vines must work hard to produce fruit and complexity is the reward. Despite that moderating influence, 2002 was a year that produced very ripe fruit and it shows: Big intense and deep, this is heady stuff, where the myriad flavors are delivered with power. $39.99/$32 case
St. Innocent 2001 Dynamic Duo
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2001 - It is rare to see a St. Innocent bottle without a single vineyard designation so at first I was suspicious. Not to worry, it tastes like a St. Innocent pinot should. Almost 70% of the fruit is from 7 Springs, the remainder coming from Freedom Hill. A healthy dose of new oak is evident but serves to enhance the dark black cherry fruit and mild smoky spiciness. Quite a bruiser for the price. $15.99/$12.75 case.
Chardonnay Dijon Clone Freedom Hill 2001 - Mark Vlossak’s Chardonnays keep getting better, and this wine should help people to reconsider Oregon Chardonnay. Phylloxera is unfortunately slowing eating through the Freedom Hill vineyard but the result for now is that it produces very concentrated fruit. 33% new oak adds a subtle spice touch and the balance between the lively acidity and lush creaminess is deliciously perfect. $17.99/ $14.40 case.
Autumnal Inspiration from Southern France
Domaine Les Goubert Gigondas 2000 - This winery has been handed down father to son since 1636! (the same year that Harvard was founded.) The current incarnation of winemaker however was the first to use new oak barrels in Gigondas which leads to a harmonious marriage between the old world and the new. 2000 was a super vintage in the southern Rhone, and this wine made waves in two recent tastings. Robust dark fruit is complemented by hints of tar, wet earth, and oak. I think Bert’s tasting notes from class sum it up nicely: “Vavoom!” $19.99/$15.99 case.
Clos La Coutale Cahors 2001 - A perennial favorite from a quiet region halfway between Bordeaux and the Languedoc, this Malbec/Tannat blend defines heartiness with black and blueberry intensity and whiffs reminiscent of freshly tilled black soil. The 2001 is slightly juicier and more forward than previous years, adding polish to its typically somewhat boorish approach. $11.99/$9.60 case.
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The Schoolhouse Red has landed!
L’Ecole No. 41 Schoolhouse Red 2002,
$18.99/ $15.20 case.
This juicy, almost scrumptious, blend used to be only sold at the winery, and we had to turn people away who had heard the rumors of its quality. No longer. Portland now receives a little bit to keep the masses from revolting, but last year it arrived and was sold out in a matter of weeks, as it embodies all the finer aspects of Walla Walla reds without the relatively higher price tags. The new vintage has just arrived and is another
mélange of bright berry fruit, aromatic spices, and subtle oak that caresses the palate with its richness and complexity. It won’t last long, either here or
chez vous; make someone (including yourself) happy today.
Turkey Wines
Choosing Thanksgiving wines is not easy with the variety of assembled plates and palates, but fear not; We have once again slogged our way through hundreds of bottles to bring you the following suggestions that are interesting, cuisine-appropriate, crowd-pleasing, and above all, delicious. Happy Thanksgiving!
Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône Bouquet des Garrigues 2001 - As mentioned before, this wine has been one of the shop’s best-selling favorites over the years and with good reason. However, this vintage is unfortunately the last by the brilliant winemaker Jean-Denis Vacheron who was killed in a car accident in 2002, and this bottling (Bouquet des Garrigues) is the last of their line-up to be released. We’ve been selling the Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes with great success but this one “kicks it up a notch”. Parker’s review sums it up nicely: “a serious fruit bomb with loads of lavender, ground pepper, and jammy kirsch liqueur-like fruit notes with hints of raspberry and black currants...tasty, opulent, and silky-textured. 91 points.” $19.99/$15.99 case.
Dr. Wagner Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Qba 2001 - Riesling is an excellent Thanksgiving choice; lower alcohol doesn’t knock you out and its bright liveliness cuts through the variety of flavors on the table. This old favorite from the much-heralded 2001 vintage is right on the mark. Vibrant and intense with a mouth-watering lime tanginess and mineral notes. Although rich and mouth-filling, the ripe fruit is balanced by bright acidity, giving it excellent length and depth. $12.99/$10.40 case.
Broadley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 - Broadley is located in the Willamette Valley’s “Banana Belt” in Monroe and their style is lush, forward, and relatively robust for pinot noir. This new release was a top choice in a recent tasting and shows off the power and finesse of the 2002 vintage. Silky, elegant, and aromatic, the bright cherry fruit is soft and inviting but has enough backbone and richness to make it last on the palate. A very harmonious wine which shows off the irresistible charms of pinot noir, ready to go, right now. $14.99/$11.99 case.
Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva 1994 (Blowout Alert!) - Dubbed a “glorious anachronism” by the
Wine Spectator, this winery is the pinnacle of traditional-style Rioja. In a region where newcomers are trying to make a name with muscular fruit-forward wines doused with new oak, Lopez d. H. remains faithful to wines of elegance and harmony. This Gran Reserva spent six years in old American casks, mellowing the texture to a silky smoothness. Very complex but subtle with notes of cigar box, sandalwood, coffee, dried cherry and cranberry. All that with an underlying structure and seemingly incongruous freshness makes this a real standout treat. Not only would it make a fantastic autumnally-flavored addition to Turkey Day, it is a steal of a deal. Normally $30, the price is reduced to make way for the 1995 which arrives soon (priced at $36!). $21.99/ $17.60 case.
Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Réserve 2001 - Another oft-overlooked white varietal that shines this time of year, the Sparr offers quality with value, quaffability with complexity, and fruitiness with balance. Essentially it should please everyone from the novice to the “connoisseur”. Lush and flavorful with characteristic rose, litchi nut, and spice notes, the ripe white fruit flavors are mouth-filling yet balanced and bright. $13.99/$11.20 case.case.
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Taittinger Brut La Française NV
Retail: $42 GWB: $34.99 Sale: $27.99
As the third oldest Champagne house (founded in 1743), Taittinger is a bastion of tradition whose trademark style aims for elegance, finesse and purity of fruit. Roughly equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir (as well as 20% pinot meunier) create a complex balanced wine with no one particular component dominating. We have long been fans of this beautiful style and this recent batch seems even more stylish and sophisticated than before. Vibrant and focused, the citrus-tinged fruit glides gently over a coiled intensity that turns creamy and velvety on the palate. For Champagne of this caliber, the sale price is so low,
it’s silly.
Pannier Brut Sélection NV
Retail: $30 GWB price: $26.99 Sale: $21.50
Pannier represents a different face of Champagne compared to Tattinger and other well known grandes marques. Part of the recent wave of
"grower" Champagnes, Pannier is a cooperative of growers whose vineyard holdings produce too little to bottle separately, yet who crave something more than simply selling their grapes. This bottling stood out in our blind tasting for its range of flavors and richness. Beyond its alluring floral aromatics, crisp citrus notes initially predominate but become surprisingly rich and fuller-bodied on the palate with flavors of red fruits and pie crust. A standout deal for the quality (Highly Recommended -
Decanter magazine), especially with the euro as high as it is.
Roederer Estate Brut
Retail: $22.50 GWB: $19.99 Sale: $15.99
How to explain the endless charm of this California sparkler that has won our palates year after year? There is a lot of non-Champagne sparkling out there, and then
there’s Roederer. It’s been several years since Champagne guru Tom Stevenson called it the greatest non-Champagne sparkling wine, and they haven't let that comment compromise their quest for quality. This brand new batch is a fascinating character study; promising aromatics of apple butter and toasted biscuits give way to a youthful display of nervy lemony crispness and mouth-watering snap. As it opens however, it fleshes out showing ripe pear fruit, mild yeasty notes and impeccable balance.
Van Duzer Oregon
Retail: $14.99 GWB: $12.99 Sale: $10.50
This was the biggest surprise (a very pleasant one) of our blind tasting. This quality from Oregon? For this price? Amazing. A little research explains why. Although previously not living up to their potential, the vineyard sites are excellent, sitting at the mouth of the Van Duzer corridor west of Eugene where Pacific breezes moderate summertime afternoon heat. This allows longer hang-time (which equals more complex flavors) and higher acids (which is necessary for sparkling wine). New ownership in 1998 has led to upgrades and improvements that are certainly paying off. Disgorged on demand, there is an immediately appealing freshness, and although the style is overall quite elegant, the complexity of flavors is far from subtle: ripe apples, mild cherry and pinot spice, and an intriguing toasted nut component.
Juvé y Camps Reserva Brut 1999
Retail: $15 GWB: $8.99 Sale: $6.99
Although not well-known in the US, this is one of the most popular and well-respected cavas in Spain (as well as being "the cava of choice for the royal family"). An importing glitch has turned this into a blowout deal while it lasts. Tasting every bit like the $15 bottle it really is, this is very distinctive: rich and full-flavored with apple cider and brandy notes and hints of baking spices. Decidedly dry and complex, this is a serious sparkler for the money. Comes in the always highly desirable 6 pack wood box.
Here Today, Gone Tomorrow
Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz and GSM 2002
Stonehorse Shiraz $25.99 (6 bottle limit)
Stonehorse GSM $15.99 (6 bottle limit)
The 2002 Australian reds continue to delight and amaze; they are outrageously concentrated and powerful with layers of complexity. These two new arrivals are incredible bargains for the quality. From
Parker’s recent accolades: "The Stonehorse Shiraz is spectacular. It is a teeth-staining, mouth-filling, extremely concentrated Shiraz [which] offers sensational richness and length. 94-96 pts."
The Stonehorse GSM (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) possesses superb blackberry and kirsch-like fruit inter-twined with flower and licorice characteristics...great purity and a long, layered finish. 90-92 pts."
Cherrywood Pinot Noir Oregon 2002
$15.99/ $12.60 by the case.
The 2001 vintage was a runaway hit; we loved it, Kramer loved it, the Spectator
loved it, and by the time customers realized they too loved it, it was gone. The new vintage just arrived and is fantastic. It is similar to the 2001, but richer and fuller which mirrors the vintage differences in general. High red fruit notes are balanced by substantial depth and smoky black fruit notes. Velvety and caressing on the palate, the rich fruit is punctuated by bursts of spice and oak. Part of a welcome crop of new, excellent, and affordable pinot noir from Oregon, this could be in the mid
$20’s and still sell out.
L de la Louvière Pessac-Léognan 2000
$22.99/ $18.35 by the case.
The best thing about great vintages is that although a rising tide lifts all boats, it tends to lift the lesser wines more dramatically then the more expensive. Case in point, the second wine from Chateau de la Louvière, which the
Wine Spectator called "almost too good for a second wine." With this 90 pt. review, it scored only one point less than the
grand vin: "Dark-colored, with a fantastically deep and rich nose of crushed currants and berries and hints of new wood. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very well-crafted."
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