       |
Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.
| 2004 Jan/Feb | April 2004 | July 2004 | October 2004 |
| 2004 March | May 2004 | August 2004 | November 2004 |
| June 2004 | September 2004 | December 2004 | |
January/February
2004
New Releases — Winter Warmer Wines
J. Christopher Rosso Applegate Valley 2002
-
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
After all the parties and well-executed dinners with wines to match, drinking this is like coming home: it’s comfort wine. Like meatloaf (with which this wine would go well), it’s hearty and satisfying without demanding too much thought. The full-flavored merlot juiciness is plush and lush with bursting berry cherry fruit. There is enough Cabernet structure to hold it all together and add dimension but it’s mostly guilty pleasure here, a soft velvety robe of luscious merlot with gently gripping tannins on the finish. Like to know the ingredients of your meatloaf? Two-thirds merlot and one-third cabernet sauvignon from a high-elevation vineyard in southern Oregon whose main pest problem is not birds or deer, but bear.
Owen Roe Yakima Valley Red DuBrul
Vineyard/Rosa Mystica Block 2002 -
$39.99/$32 by the case.
Although most of the gift giving has settled down for a while (until President’ Day of course), this may be the gift to buy yourself with all that holiday cash burning a hole in your pocket. A beautiful wine all-around (as well as a beautiful label) that has power, grace, complexity, and intensity. A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc from two of Owen Roe’s top vineyard sites (DuBrul and Rosa Mystica), it is packed with merlot berry fruit complemented by cab franc smoke and spice aromatics and held together by the more structured cab sauv. Repeat buys from customers who tried it in December showed that even jaded palates were much impressed, the most understated praise being “THAT is a GOOD bottle of wine”. Very limited (336 cases, most of which sells from the winery direct.)
Smith & Hook Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Lucia Highlands 2001
-
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
California Cab lovers, clear some room in your cellar. Rumors of excellence in 2001 are starting to be proven fact as more and more fantastic wines arrive in the market. In the most recent Wine Advocate, Parker says “2001 appears to be the finest year for cab and merlot since 1994 and 1991… a superlative vintage across the board”, and as we know, a rising tide lifts all boats, which is certainly the case here. Already showing off its irresistible cabernet charm, sweet cherry aromatics lead to a velvety frame dripping with dark berry and intense cassis fruit. Thickly textured and swirling with cedar and vanilla oak notes, this is hard to refuse now but its structure and moderate tannins on the finish suggest perhaps an even smoother ride a few years down the road. Outstanding quality for the price.
Domaine Saint Luc Côtes du Rhône Villages 2000
-
$10.99/$8.80 by the case
Had enough cabernet and merlot suggestions? This one takes us back over the ocean to sunny Provence (although this time of year it’s not so sunny) where the grenache gets ripe and fleshy and the syrah adds its peppery spice. This 50/50 blend is another value winner from the excellent 2000 vintage, showing surprisingly well in a December tasting. Supple and medium-bodied, this is fuller and more fruit forward than the Autard Côtes du Rhône (a recent hit prized for its nuance and subtlety), with mild smoke and spice notes playing second fiddle to the more dominant fruit.
Bernard Morey Bourgogne Blanc 2002 -
$18.99/$15.15 by the case.
2002 is a white burgundy fan’s dream vintage. The word so far (from the little we’ve tasted [they’re just starting to arrive] and the good press) is that the wines are delicious young without the typical austerity yet have plenty of lively acidity for freshness and age worthiness. Tanzer was “enchanted by the remarkable combination of sweetness, richness, and vibrancy shown by the young 2002s.” This, a simple bourgogne blanc (albeit from an excellent producer), captures this spirit beautifully. Vibrant and focused with a quiet intensity, the citrus-pear fruit is tinged with honey notes and an underlying minerality. Rich for burgundy (it still ain’t California though) with a supple lilting texture, there is still a blast of acidity that promises several years of drinking pleasure.
Quality Italian Bargains
Lunelli Terre di Pietra 1999 -
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
It’s not THE wine of year according to the Wine Spectator, but it is according to Matt Kramer’s list. He calls it “an amazing wine...the most surprising of the year for me”. A blend of non-traditional (Cab, Cab Franc, and Merlot) and traditional (Lagrein and Teroldego) grapes from northern Italy, there is a familiar taste edged with the unknown. The dark plum fruit is medium-bodied and firm with intriguing hints of charcoal smoke, wet earth, and mineral. With well integrated acid and tannin, this pairs wonderfully with Italian winter fare: stews, roast meats, and hearty soups.
Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo delle Langhe 2002
-
$12.99/ $10.40 by the case.
Usually we’re extolling the virtues of great vintages and not saying much about the weaker ones (Hmm...makes sense to me), but here we have a great wine deal because of a bad vintage. 2002 was, shall we say, difficult in Italy. The upside here is that Produttori has top quality vineyard holdings and almost always releases them as single vineyard designates with a correspondingly higher price. Not so in ’02. Where does this quality fruit go? Down the line into the Barbaresco normale and into this bottle. Youthful and fresh with a surprising similarity to pinot noir at this stage with perfumed cherry fruit and mild spice. More beauty than beast, the medium-bodied fruit is shot through with that brisk nebbiolo acidity.
top
More for Your Money
A little sleuthing turns up some excellent values
Jean Sipp Tokay Pinot Gris Réserve 2001 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
The wines of Jean Sipp are legendary here for their mind-boggling price-to-quality ratio as they have dominated several different blind tastings over the years. Any fears that the new vintage wouldn’t live up to the hype were happily unfounded: this exquisite wine is compelling and full of character. Intensely flavored and richly textured, the generous ripe peach fruit is framed by stony smoky notes that add depth and complexity. Smooth and viscous, the temptation is to call it sweet but its impeccable balance ultimately lands it on the dry side.
Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Four Winds Vineyard 2002 $21.99/$17.50 by the case.
Her wines are top notch across the board, there’s no question about that, but with over eight separate single vineyard bottlings, the differences between them (which is after all the point) lead to the delightful-to-determine question “Which is better?’. This is of course a matter of personal preference and after tasting through the entire line-up recently, the Four Winds emerges as an overlooked gem. This is not typically considered one of their flagship wines; the vineyard is not well-known, it is their least expensive single vineyard offering and maybe most importantly, its flavor profile is markedly different from her other wines. The cooler climate site and different soil composition gives it more structure, darker fruit notes, and intriguing aromatics of wet earth, mineral, and spice. It still has the seamlessly smooth texture characteristic of all her wines, followed by a long sweet cherry finish.
Where it sells best explains a lot. East Coast wine drinkers (who are more Euro-centric in their wine habits [read Burgundy]) love it; In California they buy every other single vineyard but the Four Winds. Ultimately it’s a matter of preference, but hiding in the shadow of its better-known siblings, it is one of the best Oregon pinot noir values of the moment.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 1999 $23.99/$19 by the case.
The Wine Spectator has already proclaimed 2000 to be the vintage for Piedmont but ‘99 is no slouch either, with some winemakers saying they actually prefer it to 2000. One could cynically argue that is because they need to sell the ’99s before the 2000s arrive but once again style preference is the more likely truth. ’99 is more like ’96, less ripe, more nuanced, and with more pronounced tannins. ’00 is similar to ’97, rich, ripe, obvious, and delicious now, no small feat for the notoriously tannic/acidic Nebbiolo. With the rising Euro and 2000 hype, this new arrival from one of Portland’s favorite Piedmont producers may be the last time we see prices this low. Floral licorice-tinged aromatics lead into a solid mouthful of high-toned red fruit, followed by a crush of black fruit and tannin. Will age beautifully, so load up while the price is right.
Torbreck Woodcutter’s Red Shiraz 2002 $17.99/$14.40 by the case
Torbreck produces wines that are among the most “Rhône-like” in Australia. Whereas many Australian wines aim for soft jammy ripe fruit, Torbreck’s wines are solidly built with structure and depth more reminiscent of Northern Rhône syrah than Australia. That said, this new release is still loaded with fruit and is ready for tonight’s BBQ. Robert Parker can’t get enough of these guys: “the sumptuous 2002 is unquestionably one of the world’s greatest red wine values. A dense saturated purple color is followed by aromas of blackberry liqueur, licorice, and a hint of chocolate. It is full-bodied with opulent flavors, low acidity, and a textured long finish. 92 points.”
2002 German Riesling Update
The 2002 German Riesling class was a hit, the consensus being that all eleven wines were terrific; beyond that it’s just a question of style. Because 2001 received so much hype, 2002 has undeservedly been overshadowed. Don’t miss out, some of the ’02s have shown better than their ’01 counterparts.
Below are two of the class favorites, one drier, the other, shall I say, not so dry.
Leitz Riesling Spatlese Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Rheingau 2002 $21.99/ $17.50 by the case.
For fans (and there are many) of the ultra-rich style, it’s hard to beat this favorite. Full flavored, unctuous, and dripping with ripe peach fruit, it’s got incredible length, depth, and a mouthwatering finish. Considering how it well it showed in the blind tasting against some stiff competition, this is a lot of wine for the money.
Von Buhl Riesling Kabinett “Armand” Pfalz 2002 $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
The 2001 was one of our favorites in a drier style and the 2002 ratchets up the fruit while maintaining the laser-like focus and intensity. A quick read of class tasting notes stress its unparalleled minerality and zesty white spice notes as well as its long classy citrus-tinged finish. A superb wine from the lesser-known Pfalz region (Some guessed it was from the Mosel, due to its delicious vibrancy.)
top
Tax Time Wine
Tax-deductible Drinking and Other Money Saving Tips
Sineann Pinot Gris 2003 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
It’s that time of year when flowers start to bloom, allergies kick in, and one of our favorite Oregon Pinot Gris is released, heralding the start of warm-weather, front-porch drinking. This perennial best-seller is true to form here: richly textured and highly aromatic, and dripping with lush white peach and pear fruit. Although the fruit was very ripe (summer 2003 was very warm) and therefore packed with intense, almost honeyed notes, the wine is ultimately dry, medium-bodied and shot through with an appealing light spiciness. If you’ve never tried it, this is one that people come back for again and again.
Steltzner Claret Napa Valley 2001 $15.99/$12.75 by the case.
This bargain-priced winner is more evidence that the 2001 vintage in California produced terrific wines. Steltzner is a small family-owned winery in the heart of Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap district that consistently produces top quality wines yet they remain under the radar due to their limited production. This blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc (all Stag’s Leap fruit) is a wonderful example of why blends work, offering the best of the three component varietals. There is the soft supple merlot fruit, the spice and aromatics of cabernet franc, and the power and structure of cabernet sauvignon. Beautifully balanced without being gooey or overly oaky, this is a quintessential classy Napa valley red.
Les Clos de Paulilles Collioure Rosé 2002 $11.99/$9.50 by the case
Is it too early for rosé? The recent weather answers with an emphatic NO! and many of our customers agree. Rosé can be delicious any time of year and certainly nothing says “summer is (almost) here” more than a cold glass of it on the back deck. Maybe it’s a bit optimistic, however if there is such a thing as a “transition” rosé, this is it. Described as having “the charm of a rosé and the elegance of a good red” by the
New York Times’ Frank Prial and considered one of France’s best, this 50 grenache/50 syrah blend is fuller-flavored than most with intense strawberry/raspberry notes, medium-bodied and surprising depth. Customers loved it last summer and I had assumed it was sold out until it showed up on an importer’s spring cleaning list. Worth every dime at its regular $16 price, it is without a doubt one of the best things going at its
blowout price.
Domaine St. Luc Coteaux du Tricastin Cuvée Syrah 2000 $12.99/$10.35 by the case
The writing is on the wall so we’re trying to scoop up current Rhône deals from 2000 and 2001 before the punishing exchange rate and less-than-stellar ‘02 vintage potentially turns this river valley into a trickle of bargains. We’re sold out of this winery’s regular bottling so we’re thrilled that this deal showed up. This 100% syrah cuvée is loaded with all the reasons we love the Rhône. The full-bodied dark spicy fruit is deliciously plush and supple with typical roasted notes mixed with lavender, herbs, and tar.
Another awesome spring cleaning deal that shaves off $8 from the regular price making this as easy to buy as waking up in the morning. We bought all we could but unfortunately not enough to last very long.
Torre Quarto Bottaccia Nero di Troia Puglia 2002 $14.99/$11.99 by the case
Huh? Although this may appear to be a string of unrelated Italian words, there is some sense to be made from it. Torre Quarto is a small winery in the southern Italian region of Puglia. Bottaccia is the name of their special cuvée which contains 100% Nero di Troia, a grape varietal rarely seen outside the region.
The winery has been in the same family for over one hundred years and with recent technological upgrades, they now produce wines that are a superb marriage of tradition and progress: unmistakably Italian yet the rough edges typical of southern Italian reds have been smoothed out. Full-flavored, long on the palate, and multi-dimensional, the dominant dark plum fruit is layered with smoky overtones and brighter cherry notes. Think grilled meats or well-spiced red sauce.
2002 White Burgundy Arrivals
The 2002 white Burgundies continue to roll in and happily are living up to the hype of it being a benchmark vintage. They seem to offer the best of both worlds, precocious enough to offer immediate pleasure yet balanced and structured enough to age.
Verget is a top producer who geographically covers all the bases from Chablis to the Mâcon region. It is this southern region that in top vintages is, as one well-informed customer put it, “the sweet spot”; they’re more generous at this early stage than their northern brethren and they’re cheap! (for white Burgundy anyway). These two stood out from the overall super line-up for their excellent price-to-quality ratio and contrasting styles.
Verget Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche 2002 $19.99/ $15.99 by the case.
“This fleshy wine sports chalky mineral aromas as well as a light to medium-bodied, expansive personality. A wine of outstanding purity, detail, and length, it offers liquid mineral and resiny flavors. While not a powerhouse, this feminine, elegant wine is beautifully defined, flavorful, and reveals a long seamless finish.” 90 pts. Parker’s
Wine Advocate
Verget Mâcon-Charnay Le Clos Saint- Pierre 2002 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
This sports a vinous, deep nose of stones and minerals. Broad, powerful, and expansive, this satiny-textured, medium-bodied wine exhibits liquid slate flavors. It is lush, possesses an admirably long finish, and is seamless. 89 pts.
Parker’s
Wine Advocate
top
New Releases from Old Favorites- Wines with which to greet the warm weather
O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir Oregon 2003
$12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Always the first pinot out of the gate, the O’Reilly’s is an early summer institution, filling the need for a lighter bodied red as the thermometer climbs as well as being a de facto wedding or graduation party suggestion. As more and more good quality Oregon pinot noir is released in the under $15 category, the O’Reilly’s still holds its own. The 2003 actually notches up the quality offering a beefier and more robust frame as well as generous darker cherry fruit. The supple texture that makes this wine such a pleasure to drink is still there, caressing the palate and inviting you back for another satisfying sip. And at this price, why not?
Annabella Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002
$10.99/$8.75 by the case.
The 2001 was a summer-long favorite and happily the newly released 2002 does not disappoint, judging by how quickly it’s selling. We’ve heard from more than a few people that “it tastes like last year’s…” which is a very good thing. A somewhat familiar story by now, Annabella is a label created by Michael Pozzan who buys extra juice from high-quality wineries that want to unload a lot of wine quickly. The trade-off is that he pays a fraction of the normal price, and the proof is in the bottle. This tastes as good as wines twice the price. Medium-bodied and fleshy with red berry fruit/cassis flavors, vanilla oak notes and mild cedar aromatics. It’s smooth and silky with enough cabernet structure and grip to hold up to the bounty of summer grilling.
Cameroni Giovanni Pinot Bianco 2003
$12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Similar to the groundhog’s shadow as a signal of changing seasons, the annual Giovanni sighting is as sure a harbinger of summer as any. Amnesia-inducing in its deliciousness, the few bottles I’ve shared thus far has kept friends way too busy enjoying and refilling glasses to offer much commentary besides “I love this stuff” and “this stuff is great”, which is pretty much the whole point. The ripe round white fruit/green apple flavors are soft and intensely juicy, alternately quenching the thirst then contributing to it.
Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma 2002
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
One of our favorite and top-selling zins over the past few years, this new release is amazingly even better, helped in no small part by California’s hot summer (zin takes a while to ripen). The Seghesio wines stand out for their elegance and complexity while still delivering plenty of flavor excitement. The
Wine Spectator agrees saying “wonderful balance and sense of elegance, offering ripe, complex fruit flavors, with spicy black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate, herb and sage notes that add flavor dimensions and complexity. Firm but ripe tannins add structure, allowing the fruit to push through. 92 points”.
Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Réserve 2002
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Another perennial favorite that is inextricably linked to fresh young goat cheese and al fresco dining, picnic or otherwise. Produced from 100% sauvignon blanc, bright floral aromatics lead to zippy citrus notes on the palate, which are tangy, refreshing, and revitalizing. One of the highlights of Bourgeois’ wines is that the majority of his vines are planted in chalky soil which gives this tremendous clarity and a mineral focus that just sings. Aging on the lees adds depth, suppleness, and a balance to the vibrant acidity.
Domaine Courbis Syrah Vin de Pays 2001
$11.99/$9.50 by the case.
“Courbis, a young, progressive, northern Rhône producer, fashions intensely flavored, modern-styled reds that are meant to be drunk young, yet are capable of aging well for a decade.” That quote from a recent Parker review refers mostly to his high-scoring Cornas cuvées but holds true here as well. Although a
vin de pays, this is classic northern Rhône syrah that offers a shifting complexity, going beyond just big fruit. Aromatically profuse with violets, lavender, anise and smoky black pepper, the black raspberry fruit is medium to full-bodied, with a supple softness supported by underlying structure and weight.
2002 Oregon Pinot Noir Tasting
April’s 2002 Oregon Pinot Noir class confirmed what barrel tasting, early releases and wine magazines have strongly hinted at: this may be the most balanced and satisfying vintage in a string of very good ones. The twelve wines tasted offered a variety of style and price ranges, yet were complex, flavorful, harmonious and lip-smackingly satisfying -- the essence of what Oregon Pinot is all about. Many of the 2002s have been selling out quickly upon release, and these two top vote-getters should be no exception.
Gypsy Dancer Estates “Gary and Christine’s Vineyard” 2002
$33.99/$27 by the case
Former Archery Summit founder Gary Andrus purchased Lion Valley Vineyards in 2002, attracted by the expression of Chehalem Mountains fruit and the vineyard’s Burgundy-style tightly-spaced planting. Complex aromas of flowers, spice, berries and earth entice into a rich, medium-bodied Pinot bursting with dark fruit, plum and touches of vanilla-scented oak. A long finish, coupled with good balance and acidity complete the package. A Pinot that drinks great now or can age, only 500 cases were produced from the estate vineyard. A 1st place winner two nights in a row.
Sineann Pinot Noir Oregon 2002
$29.99/$24 by the case
No surprises here. Sineann is well known for their fruit-forward supple style that charms and delights as it rolls effortlessly across the palate, and 2002 is well suited to their style. Comments (and its popularity) were uniform in the best sense of the word: opulent, sweet yummy fruit, charming, seductive, cherry/berry goodness, and delicious.
top
June
Daedalus Cellars Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2003
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
This brand new release goes head to head with the ever-popular Sinnean, both style-wise and bang for the buck. Daedalus is the side project of Rex Hill winemaker Aron Hess and partner Pam Walden, and this, their first white release has the potential to be a perennial favorite. All the fruit is sourced from the Carabella Vineyard which is considered an excellent pinot gris site, where yields are kept low to ensure fully ripe, flavor-packed grapes. To balance the richness, Aron forgoes malolactic fermentation which maintains the crisp acidity that gives this fully flavored wine its scintillating snap. Everything you want in a good gris is here: rich exotic fruit, floral aromatics, juicy yet dry, and subtle mineral notes to keep things interesting.
Andrew Rich Tabula Rasa Rosé 2003
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
The 2003 Tabua Rasa rose has the taste, style and crowd-pleasing flash to hold its own onstage at the Moulin Rouge. Spectacular grapefruit, pear and peach aromas swirl around a core of spicy ripe fruit kicking its way to a mouth-coating, yummy finish. A blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Pinot Noir, the Tabula Rasa manages to be lushly sweet, crisply dry and totally alluring, à la Nicole Kidman. More complex than most rosé, this double-contrast comparison of a wine will be a star at your house all summer.
François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition 2002
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Lying in the grass by the river with a crisp Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, a log of goat cheese and a baguette is my idea of heaven on a warm day. 2002 was an excellent vintage in the Loire and the Pinon pulls everything together beautifully: the crisp acidity and fine minerality that makes Loire Valley whites so satisfying is balanced by a lush, richly textured mouthfeel. Aromas of flowers, honey and spice and flavors of peach, pear and citrus complete the sensory explosion.
Ermitage du Pic St. Loup Coteaux du Languedoc 2001
$12.99/$9.60 by the case.
Wow, what a mouthful. This southern French red is so chewy, thick, and loaded with intense sun-drenched red berry fruit that it took me by surprise. Their wines have always sold well (the ’99 got a 93 point rating in the
Wine Spectator), offering what the Languedoc does best: slightly rustic mouth-filling reds shot through with peppery spice, wild herb notes, and sappy ripe fruit. This was the wine hit of the night at a recent party, with one comment being “everyone is loving this wine, it’s like liquid chocolate”. Yeah!
Cortes de Cima Chaminé Alentejo 2001
$12.99/$10.35 by the case.
This Portuguese red has been a consistently popular seller here and a “distributor change” has knocked almost 25% off the regular price until this batch is gone. Alentejo is a province southeast of Lisbon where the warm Mediterranean climate is tempered by cooler air coming off the Atlantic. This helps avoid cooked raisin and Port-y flavors of over-ripe grapes and allows for more complexity. This version is ideal for warmer weather with its bright red berry/cherry fruit, medium body and mild spice. Elegant and classy as opposed to the expected robust and hearty, this is a welcome change of pace.
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002
$35.99/$28.75 by the case.
Another winner from our Spring Pinot Noir class, this vineyard located in the Amity Hills below McMinnville has been the source of well-structured and flavor-packed Pinot since 1996. Tasters were impressed with the complex aromas and flavors that included spice, violets, varied berry and cherry fruit and a touch of smoky oak. What made the wine special was how harmoniously it all blended with the tightly-wound intensity, smooth texture, and lingering finish. A hard-to-find gem, this wine will blossom with some time in the cellar or decanter.
The Return of Marquis Phillips
Once upon a time, there was an outrageously awesome Australian Shiraz named Marquis Phillips with whose price-to-quality ratio none could compare. His siblings Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sarah’s Blend, S2, and 9 (Shiraz) were similarly amazing, so much that noted wine scribe Robert Parker bestowed upon their previous two vintages ratings from 92 to 96 points. This of course, led to an almost magical disappearing act, but this month the Marquis returns. Interested parties would be well advised to follow Parker’s exhortation of old: “Run, don’t walk… and secure as much as you can of these wines.” These wines arrive mid-June and will sell out quickly.
Marquis Phillips 2003
Shiraz. Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot.
Sarah’s Blend.
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
Limited availability: Marquis Phillips Cabernet Sauvignon S2 2003 $32.99
Marquis Phillips Shiraz 9 2003
$35.99
top
July
Owen
Roe Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir Oregon 2003
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.So succulent and delicious, it’s almost
suspect; no effort on your part is required, its consumption seemingly
automatic. With gobs of sappy black fruit and smoky toasty oak, this
wine is permeated to its core with flavor, yet despite the fullness of
flavor, it retains a balance and charm that is hard to resist. For fans
of Abbot’s Table, this crowd-pleaser is the pinot noir equivalent, and
easily one of the sexiest pinots out there at any price.
The fruit is from the same vineyards (Casa Blanca and Kalita) used in
Owen Roe’s fantastic ‘02 pinot noir; in ‘03 however, extra fruit
was “donated” due to an overabundance of grapes. Having little
invested in the wine, affable winemaker David O’Reilly decided to move
it out quickly and inexpensively and is splitting the profits with the
vineyard owner in lieu of putting it all into his flagship Owen Roe
bottling (which sells for twice the price).
LAST
MINUTE ADDITION!!
Owen Roe Abbot’s Table 2003 $19.99/$15.99 by the case
This just in, Owen Roe decided to release the Abbot’s Table earlier
than they had planned because apparently it is tasting great right now,
which of course is no surprise. This lusty fruit driven red is one of
our best sellers every year. “Catnip for people” is an apt
description; if you haven’t tried it don’t miss your chance, if you
have tried it you know what we are talking about.
Arregi Txakoli de Getaria 2003
$12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Everybody’s favorite Basque white wine is back to cool you off and
quench your thirst. Coming from vineyards clinging to the spectacular
Pyrennes mountains where they fall into the Atlantic, Txakoli
(pronounced something like chack-o-li) is the perfect summer wine,
somewhat lower in alcohol, bright and crisp with fresh grapey tangy
flavors and similar to Portugal’s Vinho Verde, slightly pétillant
(sparkling). Refreshing and quite simply delicious, Portland is lucky to
even have some imported as most of it is consumed in the Basque region.
Only fifty cases were available; our importer says that is all Alejandro
Arregi would sell outside of San Sebastian, meaning there is likely more
of this in Portland than in Madrid.
Valduero Ribera del Duero Crianza 1998
$13.99/$11.15 by the case. (Blowout
alert!)
Tasting more like a Reserva than a Crianza at this point, this subtle,
super-smooth
red is all about secondary flavors. Smoky, spicy sandalwood aromatics
swirl around a core of dried cherry, cranberry, and boysenberry with
coffee toffee notes creeping in on the finish. Fleshy yet medium-bodied,
this is classic Spanish tempranillo, distinct and intriguing, good in an
unexpected way. Normally $20, the importer lowered the price temporarily
for a restaurant glass pour.
Bergerie de l’Hortus Blanc 2002
$12.99/$9.60 by the case.
A summer favorite a couple years back and a sibling to the always
popular L’ Hortus rosé, the new vintage is as complex, intriguing,
and delicious as before. Roughly equal parts viognier, sauvignon blanc,
and chardonnay add up to a moving target of a wine: floral and white
fruit aromatics and flavors from viognier, the vibrant acid backbone of
sauvignon blanc and a full, round mouth-feel from chardonnay. Dry and
focused with a persistent white spice note, it’s charmingly restrained
and elegant for an inexpensive summer refresher.
A to Z Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2003
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
Another scintillating release from this négociant four-pack, this was
sailing just under the radar until a recent tasting revealed it to be
just what the doctor ordered. Ripe exotic fruit flavors held in animated
suspension by racy refreshing acidity, it’s perfectly balanced between
a juicy fruity mouthful and clean food-friendly crispness whose snap and
precision makes it a pleasure to drink.
Domaine Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cuvée Trois Cépages
2000
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Like pigs digging for truffles, we’re trying to root out any remaining
2000 and 2001 Rhône reds, and happily stumbled upon a trove of this
winner. We sold it upon release to universal acclaim and now it’s back
for its swan song. “[this] is equal parts grenache, syrah, and
mourvedre and offers an opaque purple color along with a gorgeous
perfume of sweet cassis and blackberry fruit, full body, remarkable
purity, and considerable power. Given its concentration, it will easily
evolve for a decade or more, but I suspect its low acidity will cause
most purchasers to consume it earlier. It is very impressive!”
92 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate
1999 Brunello di Montalcino
1999 was a fabulous vintage for these 100% Sangiovese Tuscan
reds, with early reviews almost mirroring the spectacular ‘97 vintage (Wine
Spectator rates the ‘99 vintage overall at 97 points). The
following July arrivals are just a few of several that will appear over
the next few months, but with their high scores preceding them, these
wines will most likely sell quickly.
Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova 1999 $59.99
“Warm and ripe red with lots of blackberry and cedary oak character.
Full-bodied and very thick, yet refined and silky. Should turn out
fabulously. Another super wine from Casanova.” Very
Limited.
94 points, Wine Spectator.
Camigliano Brunello Di Montalcino 1999 $51.99
“Plenty of blackberry, cherry and red licorice character. Full-bodied,
with silky tannins and a long finish. Delicious, rich wine.”
92 points, Wine Spectator.
Altesino Brunello Di Montalcino 1999 $56.99
“Outstandingly fresh aromas of roses, berries and spicy oak with hints
of incense. Full-bodied, with silky and caressing tannins and a long,
finely textured finish. A very pretty wine already. Hard to resist.” 91
points, Wine Spectator.
top
August
Fattoria di Felsina Blowout Deal!!
An Italian lover’s dream, this Tuscan red blowout is not to be missed. Felsina is consistently rated at the top of Chianti producers with glowing reviews at home and abroad year after year. Unfortunately this quality does not come cheaply, until now. A major importer change has drastically reduced prices on existing stock, wines that are arguably worth their original (higher) prices.
Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico 2000
Regular price $25, now $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Their Chianti “normale” is usually better than many reservas, and this 2000 vintage is drinking great right now, revealing layers of complexity, a hallmark of a wine just hitting its stride. The
Wine Spectator sums it up nicely: “beautiful aromas of crushed berries and dried flowers follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and an aftertaste of mineral, berry and cherry. All in finesse. Very well-done.”
Fattoria di Felsina Toscana Fontalloro 1999
Regular price $62, now $31.99/$25.50 by the case. (That’s half-price!)
The same vintage that is currently bringing us all these formidable Brunellos also created this superb 100% sangiovese Felsina flagship wine. Parker’s review had us swooning, tasting it was even better. “Barrique-aged, it’s deep purple color is followed by a big, sweet, luscious perfume of spicy, toasty oak, cedar, fruitcake, leather, espresso, and black currants. Medium to full-bodied, with great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, and a long, opulent finish, this dazzling Italian red will drink well for 6-12 years.” 92 points. Need we say more?
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Le Puits Sec 2001
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
If there was a Hall of Fame for Oregon winemakers, Russ Raney would be a shoo-in for the Not-So-Old Guard division. At it since 1986, he’s not quite a pioneer à la Eyrie, Ponzi, or Erath, – but he has quietly created some of the most consistently compelling wines in the state. Inspired by revered French Burgundy producers such as Henri Jayer (hence the J in “Cuvee J”) and Michel Neillon, the best Evesham Wood wines are complex and elegant, yet powerful and flavor-packed. In short, it’s one of the handful of Oregon wineries that creates a lighter-styled, totally charming Pinot Noir. The 2001 Le Puits Sec delivers all of that, plus spicy lighter-toned fruits such as strawberries and raspberries, an earthiness that manages to be both delicate and robust and a great finish and impeccable balance. Yow! To top it off, this vineyard is certified organic by Oregon Tilth, and Russ is a charter member of the Deep Roots Coalition (DRC) a group of local growers/producers which advocates the use of natural methods in the vineyard and cellar.
Summer Thirst Quenchers
St. Innocent Freedom Hill Pinot Blanc ‘02
$13.99/$11.15 by the case.
St. Innocent’s buzz is usually dominated by age-worthy, well-crafted, single-vineyard Pinot Noir. Yet Oregon white wine fans know Mark Vlossak is a fanatic when it comes to creating Alsace-inspired Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. That dedication is more than evident in this wine which was a big hit at a recent tasting. Fermented about half in stainless steel tank and half in mostly neutral French oak, the wine is lighter and crisper than their Pinot Gris, with a smooth texture and spicy fruit flavors of peaches, pears and a hint of tropical fruit. A perfect match for shellfish and other lighter fare. A chilled bottle, a warm evening, a slight breeze, a favorite companion…you get the idea.
Ostatu Rioja Blanco 2003
$10.99/$8.75 by the case.
A stellar example of the new style of white Rioja, this is all about clean fresh vibrant fruit as opposed to the older dried-out oaky style. Ostatu is a family-owned winery that also produces excellent point-garnering reds, but for August this white was hard to resist. Floral and delicate, the zippy bright fruit leans toward green apple or pear with enough richness to satisfy all the while staying light on its feet (or your palate, as the case may be).
Château Coussin Rosé (Provence) 2003
$11.99/$9.50 case.
Not as flashy as some day-glo pink wines out there, this four-varietal blend (all red) still shows surprising depth and red fruit flavors despite its paleness. Not only is it refreshing and delicious (as it’s meant to be), but the subtle complexity of flavors linger on and on making it one of the more interesting and distinct rosés of this summer. From a Provençal vineyard near Aix that has been in the family for 500 years!
Mionetto Moscato NV
$9.99/$7.99 by the case.
Ah, the simple pleasures found inside a bottle of semi-sparkling, slightly sweet Italian moscato. Those who profess an aversion to sweet wines quickly change their tune when confronted with its cheery, happy-go-lucky personality. Floral, bright and refreshing with flavors of honeysuckle and peach, it’s the perfect end to a summer dinner (when typically heavier dessert wines are simply too much). It even works as a lively aperitif: not as austere or formal as Champagne and not as complicated as cocktails, it revs up the taste buds without much fuss.
Rhône Round-up
Just in time for the Pendleton Round-up Rodeo, here’s a chance to lasso some remaining Rhône reds from the fantastic 2001 vintage.
Domaine du Pesquier Côtes du Rhône ‘01 $10.99/$8.75 by the case.
Pesquier is mainly a Gigondas producer and until a recent distributor change, this CdRhône bottling was not available in Portland. A quintessential southern Rhône red, the concentrated blackberry fruit is layered with a briary
garrigue spiciness and smoky roasted notes. Intense and heady without being rustic, it transcends its simple appellation while simultaneously being a near-perfect archetype. An epic wine to fawn over is not always the best choice; this delivers the desired
flavor/terroir punch while retaining a carefree aura that suits it “daily drinker” price.
Château de Ségriès Lirac 2001
$11.99/$9.50 case.
Although wines from the above-mentioned Gigondas region tend to be hearty and robust, cross the river and you’ll find a lighter prettier style, which is sometimes exactly what you need. This is that wine: it displays a balance, silkiness and fragrance paired with good acidity and bright cherry/raspberry flavors that does not sacrifice flavor or intensity. It stands out as one of the best lighter-style Rhônes we’ve had recently.
Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf du Pape 01
$49.99
When an epic wine is the best choice, look no further.Everything you want from the Rhône and more: ‘huge bouquet of ground pepper, lavender, roasted
herbes de Provence, beef blood, and cranberry as well as black cherry liqueur. Broad full-bodied flavors, admirable density and chewiness, with hints of underbrush, new saddle leather, incense, and black fruits. Striking.’
93 points, Parker
top
September
September Sleepers
2002 White Burgundy - 2002 is the most exciting white Burgundy vintage since 1996 (and 1990 before that). Not that recent vintages have been bad but 2002 offers a richness and generosity not normally found in young Burgundy; it usually needs a few years to truly show its stuff, leaving some consumers who drink it upon release wondering what the fuss is all about. Not in ‘02. To paraphrase Stephen Tanzer, now is the time to dive in head first. Consider these two a
dipping-of-the-toes-approach, as they are easy on the wallet as well as the palate.
Auvigue Macon Davayé 2002 - $11.99/$9.50 by the case.
Davayé is a village a stone’s throw from Pouilly-Fuissé and Auvigue produces some stellar wines from that appellation. This wine, their least expensive offering, exhibits many of the desired characteristics in balance and moderation: hazelnut notes, apply fruit, and a round nicely textured mouth-feel. Bright acidity keeps it lively but doesn’t overpower the fleshy fruit. In stock for a while now and we keep going back to it as the best wine for the money in its category.
Michel Briday Rully 2002 - $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
When Robert Parker says “for value conscious consumers, I regard Rully as one of the very best sources of white wine in Burgundy”, it’s time to pay attention. Rully is located in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of white Burgundy heavyweights Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet. Best characterized by fresh clean pure chardonnay fruit flavors, Rully tends to be a safe bet for something that tastes like Burgundy without having to overspend. Michel Briday’s ‘02 goes beyond merely a “safe bet” and delivers a classy elegant flavorful wine with ripe apple/pear fruit and candied nuts balanced by a focused limestone minerality.
Farnatella Chianti Colli Senesi 2002 - $11.99/$9.50 by the case.
If last month’s Felsina Chianti blowout deals left you wanting more, this is worth investigating. Farnatella is a separate property owned and run by Felsina (same winemaker, same exacting standards). Located just outside the Classico area in the Senesi hills, Farnatella is Felsina’s entry-level Chianti. The style is pretty, medium-bodied and destined for early consumption; the kind of wine that calls to mind simple Italian meals with agreeable companions and a good solid red that doesn’t demand ohs and ahs. This 2002 satisfies these requirements by being open-knit, generous, and tasty. It is fleshy but not heavy, and although easily quaffed, there’s enough complexity to keep it more than interesting. Regular price $15.
Dunham Three-legged Red Columbia Valley 2002 $17.99/$14.30 by the case.
The dog-on-a-wine-label craze continues unabated, prompting us to consider a whole new approach to the store’s layout, this time based on zoological features instead of region. Anyway… this wine does merit mention regardless of the cute label (it’s the winery dog). Dunham is best known for its powerful cabernet and syrah bottlings which are intense and a joy to drink but reach the $50 mark. For consumption on a more regular basis, the ‘3-leg’ is an excellent value, loaded with all the goodness that the Walla Walla area has to offer: spicy red and black fruit (raspberry, boysenberry) with a touch of toasty oak. Medium-bodied, smooth and lush, the underlying acidity provides just enough backbone.
Felsner Riesling Gebling 2003 - $18.99/$15 by the case.
In a recent Austrian tasting that focused on Gruner Veltliner, this emerged as one of the more surprising wines. Distinct and captivating, it alternately offered characteristics of both Germany and Alsace. Without ever committing to either style, it ends up with a style all its own (by then the bottle is empty; my, that was a fun exercise!). Exceptional purity of fruit, focused and linear with an intriguing powdery sweet tart flavor. Ripe and bright but ultimately dry with a lime/citrus minerality. A wine chameleon to counter all those dogs.
Andrew Will 2002 - Champoux, Sheridan, Ciel du Cheval - $49.99/$40 by
the case.
The Cabernet-based single vineyard wines from Andrew Will arrive this month. Always in short supply, these just received 91 to 94 point reviews in the latest Wine Advocate, which will make them shorter in supply.
top
Andrew Rich Coup d’Etat Columbia Valley 2002
$21.99/$17.50 by the case.
An exciting addition to his stable of non-traditional northwest wines, Andrew’s Coup d’Etat is a bon coup of blending. A firm believer in blends, Andrew has played for years with different (& often unique) blends under his Tabula Rasa label, and has hit a new high with this, his best blend yet. A southern Rhône style wine refracted through Andrew’s curious imagination (and northwest soil), it looks to the ever-popular Châteauneuf du Pape for inspiration and comparison. A mix of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise, and Syrah, it has Andrew’s telltale silky texture and Washington’s lush fruit, but also an exotic edge with its layers of smoky peppery black fruit tinged with wet earth. Enticingly aromatic and complex, it changes from glass to glass, making it a wine to revisit again and again.
Cameron Pinot Noir Arley’s Leap 2002
$24.99/$20 by the case.
This consistent favorite is simply fantastic this year for two main reasons: First, as we’ve said before, 2002 weather delivered the goods for a gorgeous vintage. Second, winemaker John Paul had extra barrels of old vine pinot noir from his Abbey Ridge bottling (one of his top two wines) and since Arley’s Leap is a portion of the Abbey Ridge vineyard, he graciously added that flavor-packed old vine juice to Arley’s. The result is a happy marriage of youthful expressiveness and old vine solidity. It begins bright and lively with aromas of freshly cut flowers and sweet red fruits, becoming fuller and darker as it opens, and remains elegant and pure throughout. Ah, the seductive charms of pinot noir…
Domaine Grand Veneur Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Viognier 2003
$18.99/$15 by the case.
For viognier fans, there is a maddeningly wide range of styles and quality; this lack of consistency has prevented it from becoming a more household wine like pinot gris or chardonnay. French viognier, moreover, is often either expensive or indifferent (or at times both, sad to say). Accordingly, we have limited our stock to versions that really shine, e.g. the Grand Veneur. After at least fifty wines (at a recent trade tasting) my jaded palate jumped to life with this one. Independent analysis confirmed it. Everybody agreed: delicious. Although 2003 was a hot vintage and the fruit is certainly ripe, they fermented in stainless steel and bottled early; excellent idea because the freshness is captivating. Aromas of flowers and honeysuckle spill from the glass followed by mouthwatering apricot and peach fruit. Balanced, smooth, and delightful, if you’re a viognier fan, make yourself happy and get some.
Piping Shrike Shiraz 2003
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
In the sea of $10-$15 Aussie shiraz currently pounding our shores, the ornithological reference works here: this soars above the competition. Yes, it has the fruit-forward richness that makes these wines so popular, but where many shiraz end it there, the piping shrike is just getting started. Woven in with the black currant and plum fruit are flavors and aromas more consistent with the Rhône: roasted spice, leather, and earth. No flash in the pan, the length and depth in this wine surprised many; even die-hard Rhône fans were buying at a recent shiraz tasting where this bird ruled the roost.
Feudi di San Gregorio Rubrato 2001
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
A modern-day Italian success story, Feudi is the leader in the once staid region of Campania in Southern Italy, whose vineyards were originally planted by the ancient Greeks. With modern winemaking techniques they are bringing to life indigenous varietals such as this one, Aglianico. Exotic yet familiar (it tastes Italian, after all), the cherry and raspberry fruit has a just-picked quality: bright with a dusty tang. Medium-bodied with admirable texture and length, bitter chocolate and kirsch notes add depth and gentle tannins on the finish offer a satisfying reassurance for an unknown such as this: wow, this is a good wine.
Edna Valley Chardonnay 2003
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
With the onset of cooler weather, a return to an old friend (a fuller-bodied white in this case) is welcome. Always reliable, this new vintage is a treat for its balance of contrasts: richly textured but subdued. Oak? A little. Butter? Just enough. Is that minerality? Could be. At times clean and linear, the next sip full of butterscotch lushness. A bit like the weather...
top
Turkey Wine
St. Innocent Pinot Noir
Seven Springs Willamette Valley 2002
$29.99 (6 bottle limit)
Shea Willamette Valley 2002
$29.99 (6 bottle limit)
We’ve been fans of St. Innocent’s wines for years; this “duh, really!?” comment is of course unnecessary as they are some of the most consistent and age-worthy pinot noir Oregon has to offer. Thanks to the stellar ‘02 vintage, these wines are again superb (no surprise) and have been selling briskly ever since our ’02 pinot tasting in April. So why write them up now? They recently received a “lift” in sales which has made them all but disappear: Parker’s
Wine Advocate rated Seven Springs 94+ points (the best score in the review) and the Shea 94 points. The bus is leaving, so hop on board.
Shea excerpt: “an exceptional wine, it envelopes the palate with dense layers of gorgeously sweet black cherries, spices, and cloves. Seductive and sultry yet focused and precise, this is big, ample, and decadent while remaining refined and detailed.”
Seven Springs excerpt: “awesomely complex aromas of violets, roses, cinnamon, dark cherries, and cloves, this is concentrated, well-structured and profound. This beauty reveals a prolonged, fruit-packed finish.”
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2003
$13.99/$11 by the case.
Russ Raney has commissioned a new label that perfectly reflects his wines: understated and elegant, yet clearly communicative of the source. The 2003 Willamette Valley pinot is full of raspberry and medium-dark cherry fruit notes, with a touch of oak, a healthy dose of spiciness, and texture that seamlessly combines underlying acidity with smoothness. Yep, it’s another Evesham Wood Willamette Valley blend that is well-balanced and charming — and a total steal for this level of quality.
Lingenfelder Riesling Spatlese Grosskarlbacher Osterberg 2001
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Riesling is the ultimate Thanksgiving wine. Its lower alcohol content allows all-day drinking, its palate-tickling sprightliness makes it a perfect
apéritif, its racy acidity cuts through the richest of holiday fare, and its light sweetness even works with pie! From the knock-out ‘01 vintage, this sports gorgeous aromatics of slate, candied lemon, and intriguing whiffs of mineral and white pepper. Amazingly light on its feet for such a flavorful wine, its lush pillow of fruit is balanced by a mouth-watering lemon tart vibrancy. Yummmmy!
Rosenblum Zinfandel Oakley 2002
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
Zinfandel is another easy choice: it’s robust, fruity, easy to understand, and as American as a varietal gets. Kent Rosenblum mastered the ‘02 vintage, turning out silky-textured, flavor-packed fruit bombs with eyebrow-raising consistency. This new arrival treads the same path as recent winners Carla’s Vineyard and Continente. Bursting with raspberry, cherry, and chocolate, its super silky smooth texture seduces the palate, leading into a long evolving finish. Focused, pure, and luscious, it’s a slam dunk for palates of all stripes.
Domaine Les Goubert Côtes du Rhône-Villages Beaumes de Venise 2001
$15.99/$12.75 case.
Nestled up in the hills immediately adjacent to Gigondas is the sleepy little village of Beaumes de Venise. Justly famous for its dessert Muscat wine, it can also produce a hidden gem of a red: bold, intense, and Gigondas-like (no surprise) without the higher price tag. At a recent trade tasting we three were blown away by the quality of this wine (independently of each other, only comparing notes the next day); there was a lot of good wine there and this stood
way out. Rich, weighty and intensely flavored with a core of sappy red fruits, great structure and a deep minerality. Upon reflection it’s not a surprise: Goubert has rocked for years. Looking up the blend, I came across an old Parker quote: “The very finest red [of this appellation] is from Les Goubert...and given its quality and price, it is one of the finest values in top red wine in France.” Heavy.
Kientzler Auxerrois “K” 200
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
What a treat to still stumble upon wines as scintillating as this. Auxerrois is considered by most to be a “second-tier” varietal in Alsace, so much that although this comes from a Grand Cru vineyard (Kirchberg), lowly Auxerrois does not have the legal right to be considered Grand Cru — hence the deceptively simple “K” designation. This however is anything but second-tier. Produced from vines that are over forty years old, this has intensity and richness paired with surprising elegance and subtlety, all introduced by a charming freshness. Ripe peach flavors are balanced by a focused mineral backbone with hints of smoke, nuts, and Thanksgiving flowers.
Back to school time…Schoolhouse Red, that is!
L’Ecole No. 41 Schoolhouse Red 2003
$18.99/ $15.20 case. (Arriving November 10)
This perennial favorite comes and goes with such rapidity; the entire school year is condensed into mere weeks. (Although some students might like that, here’s hoping Portland won’t be pushed
that far). This scrumptious blend used to be only sold at the winery; now it is sold only at the winery and in Portland for about three weeks in November. It delivers everything that we love about the Walla Walla wines (and there’s a lot to love) for a fraction of the usual cost. 2003 was a warm year but hang-time was long enough to develop complexity. Lush mouth-filling berry fruit and vanilla oak coat the palate, and the finish is smooth and long…
top
Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée NV
Retail: $50 GWB: $42.99 Sale: $33.99
The Bollinger is simply phenomenal. This has been a favorite here for years and although we flirt with others, this year there was no question about featuring it. Every time we taste it, it’s superb. In one blind tasting, first place; another, it held its own with Champagnes twice the price; at a large trade tasting, it clearly stood out. Add a 93 point review from the
Wine Spectator two years running and the decision is easy. Vibrant and persistent despite being rather full-bodied, there is a toasty nuttiness to balance the citrus-y spice. Reserve wine added to the final blend is aged in neutral oak (rare in Champagne) which adds further complexity. Generous and intense, there is also a dynamic “snap” which gives it remarkable elegance and finesse for such a powerful wine. Given its rise in price the last two years (due to exchange rates and popularity), the sale price is nothing short of a giveaway.
Pannier Brut Sélection NV
Retail: $30 GWB price: $27.99 Sale: $21.99
Pannier is a cooperative of growers whose vineyard holdings produce too little to bottle separately, yet who crave something more than simply selling their grapes. Despite regularly receiving excellent press, Pannier is not as well known as the bigger Champagne houses — which is probably good because it keeps the price lower. We have happily sold this in the past, and once again this stood out in our blind tasting for its full-throttle richness: caramel apple, cognac, hazelnut cherry, and pie crust. Loaded with flavor but balanced and appealing, this is a standout deal for the quality. If you like them rich, this is for you.
R. Dumont & Fils Brut NV
Retail: $26 GWB: $22.99 Sale: $17.99
This is one of the “grower/artisanal” champagnes that has caught the attention of U.S. consumers recently. Despite this sudden spike in interest, it’s anything but new — the Dumont family has owned vineyards here for over two hundred years. Still family owned, they produce wines solely from their own vineyards located in the southern region of Champagne where the soil is similar to that of Chablis (chalky clay). Champagne from this region tends to be more elegant and sumptuous than its siblings to the north. Dry, focused, and clean with a refreshing brightness, the chalky soil adds an intriguing mineral note. Very “French” in style, it goes in a very different direction than the Pannier. Given the Euro-dollar exchange, I cannot imagine a better deal in real French Champagne.
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV
Retail: $20 GWB: $16.99 Sale: $13.50
We were at first a little surprised by this, but upon reflection we shouldn’t have been. Gloria Ferrer has been a solid sparkling presence in California for over twenty years and has been getting better and better (this bottling just got a 90 point review in
Wine Spectator where they called it “an exceptional value”). It stood out in our blind tasting for a having a little bit of everything in just the right amount. In other words, it was flavorful, interesting, and above all balanced. Medium-bodied and fruit driven (green apple, pear) with lovely hints of green tea and bread dough, the tiny bubbles keep the mouthfeel smooth and the finish long (no big bubbles to make the finish go BOOM).
Cristallino Brut NV
Retail: $9 GWB: $6.99 Sale: $5.50
What to say? This perennial second-fiddle sparkler is consistently solid and dependable yet was always edged out in past tastings by something better for just a few dollars more. Until now. The shocker of the night, this latest release really performs, beating out the competition in the under $10 category, and best of all, it doesn’t taste cheap. Yes, there were $12 (and up) sparklers that were clearly better but hey, we’re here to make you happy and everyone can benefit from a $5 guaranteed-tasty sparkler. Aromatically French with yeasty dough notes, the fruit is medium-bodied yet quite rich (again for the price) and the finish is smooth and surprisingly long. How do they do it?
New Noteworthy Northwest
Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley 2003
$39.99/$32 by the case.
Owen Roe has a stable of thoroughbred wines but this may be their all-around best. Even better than the stunning 2002, this blend (45% merlot, 30% cabernet franc, 25% cabernet sauvignon) comes from some of Washington’s most prized vineyards, DuBrul, Elerding, and Rosa Mystica Block. Located in a relatively cool corner of the Yakima Valley, the more mild climate gives the fruit ample hang-time to slowly develop complex flavors (warmer sites need to be picked earlier to prevent over-ripeness) and maintain the grapes’ natural acidity which delivers a balancing brightness to the fruit’s richness. The cabernet franc delivers an aromatic wood spiciness, the merlot loads on the dark berry fruit and the cabernet sauvignon adds cassis and structure. Delicious yet serious; and don’t forget that gorgeous label.
Sharecropper’s Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2003
$17.99/ $14.35 by the case.
Coming on the heels of the wildly popular Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir this summer, the cabernet follows the same path to your heart. Lush and velvety, the mouth-filling dark fruit is medium-bodied and silky smooth with gentle tannins kicking in on the finish. Although not noticeably oaky, there is an alluring smoky toasty note throughout. Very much a crowd-pleaser, this is destined to become a default gift and party favorite. As with the Pinot Noir, this fruit was “donated” due to an overabundance of grapes from an excellent vineyard making it, you guessed it, an awesome deal.
Brooks Pinot Noir Janus Willamette Valley 2002
$27.99/ $22.30 by the case.
Since the 1998 vintage, we’ve been wowed several times by this wine’s combination of poise and passion, and Jimi Brooks’ 2002 Janus is simply stunning for the price. Blended from several vineyards and pinot clones, the goal was to use the most vibrant and intense barrels from the cellar to create a complex wine with more depth than a single-vineyard bottling. And that’s what you get: A wine that is rich and elegant, but also powerful and intense, displaying well-balanced acidity and smooth ripe tannins. It’s not a heavy wine, but rather a middleweight built for both impact and endurance, from the spicy nose, to the flavorful dark red fruit, light toast and earthy flavors, to the long, satisfying finish. It drinks beautifully now, but will reward those who also cellar some for a future treat. A must-try wine from a great Oregon vintage.
|
|
