Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.

2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008
2005 Jan/Feb	2005 April	2005 July	2005 October
2005 March	2005 May	2005 August	2005 November
	2005 June	2005 September	2005 December

January/February 2005
Winter Comfort Wines
Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2003 - $11.99/$9.50 by the case.
If asked to name one wine that is a joy to come home to again and again, Côtes du Rhône reds would be at the top of the list. They’re reliable, full of flavor and personality, and extremely versatile with food. Hearty, spicy, and chock full of earthy dark fruit, in winter they provide a soul-warming respite from the cold gray days. (Conversely in summer they can be the absolute best choice with typical summer fare, grilled meats, garlicky pasta, etc.) Autard’s 2001 was a favorite here until it ran out. From early reports, the 2003 Rhone vintage appears to be a great one, and here’s proof in the bottle. Autard is a Chateauneuf du Pape producer whose style tends more toward nuance, elegance, and complexity than punches of fruit. Here however, you get both: the power of a hot vintage coupled with Autard’s characteristic depth. Roasted smoky notes, peppery spice, and chewy black fruit all backed by surprising structure and depth. Another incredible Southern Rhône red for the money.
Fattoria Capannacce Rosso della Maremma Toscana 200 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
To continue the theme, Tuscan reds would also be near the top of the above-mentioned list; everybody loves a good Italian red. This wine is a “super-Tuscan” of sorts, meaning it’s a relatively modern-styled blend including non-traditional varietals from Tuscany. This combination of 50% sangiovese, 30% syrah, and 20% alicante (Italy’s grenache) mixes that unmistakable Italian-ness with an appealing palate-caressing richness. Maremma is the new hot region in Tuscany south of Chianti, dubbed “the wild west” due to its remote location and rural feel. The “wild west” spirit also applies to its winemakers; when asked why the strange blend, winemaker Alberto Porta said “because I like it.” Continual evolution in the glass caused long and scattered notes but here’s a fair summation: medium to full-bodied with red fruit, rose and woodspice aromatics. Dark cherry liqueur and intriguing minty licorice notes lead to a long mocha-infused finish. 

Recent Saturday tasters loved it until we sold out; since its return, it hasn’t stopped flying off the shelves. Importer Small Vineyards seeks out limited-production wineries that the high-volume major importers ignore, and have been rewarded with authentic Italian wines filled with personality and character. Out of their fantastic portfolio, this delicious wine still stands out.

Stroppiana Barolo San Giacomo 200 - $29.99/$23.99 by the case.
When you hear “Barolo” you might think “expensive” and “cellar for 10 years it’s so tight”, but this small-production beauty is a welcome exception. Although relatively approachable, this is not an international-style fruit bomb that doesn’t taste like Barolo. It has all the hallmarks of Barolo: roses and tar, structure, and gamy, tobacco-tinged fruit that cries out for hearty winter fare. Small producer, small importer keeps the price low; it’s worth every dime. 
Waterstone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002 - $23.99/$19 by the case
This wine has become a sensation on the Internet wine chat circuit with the rumor that it’s declassified juice from a famous megabucks Napa Valley cult winery. Maybe there’s some truth in that, because the ‘02 vintage is something special. The deep red color hints at the black cherry, plum, and cassis fruit flavors that blend with tobacco, cedar and chocolate. A polished texture and long finish featuring moderate tannins provides a classy framework. This is no run of the mill Napa cab and it’s a steal at this price. Limited Supply. 
Clos Pegase Merlot Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros (Napa Valley) 2000 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Inspired by the recent movie “Sideways” in which the snobby main character maniacally refuses to drink Merlot, we bring you this great California Merlot deal. A varietal that gets sand kicked in its face by smug, flashier, hipper wines, Merlot can still deliver the goods, with its medium-bodied elegance, tasty pure red fruit and savory herb notes. This bottling is dark and rich, with pretty currant, blackberry and cherry flavors hovering over a core of cedar and earth tones (Mitsuko’s Vineyard is in Carneros, where the clay soils help create a subtle fruit and acid balance). Normally $25 a bottle, this is a screaming deal at $15 (the local distributor struck a sweet deal when they offered to buy all of it from the winery). 
Liberalia Tres Toro 200 - $13.99/$11 by the case.
Brash, exuberant, and happy to be here, this 100% tempranillo from the up-and-coming Toro region plays the bad boy compared to its more restrained medium-bodied Rioja siblings. Powerful reds are the calling card of this region, with its high elevation vineyards and dry stony soil. The “Tres” is Liberalia’s entry-level wine and what an entry it is. Pretty aromatics of perfume and sweet oak lead to a bright cherry/raspberry fruitiness that turns dark and chewy mid-palate. Amid the structure and tannin are layers of flavor that shift from bright and cheery to dark and muscular.

More Oregon 2002
The ‘02 Oregon Pinot Noirs have been just rocking, the holiday crowds couldn’t get enough of them (literally, many popular choices sold out). Here’s three more A+ graduates from the Class of ‘02 that picked up steam during the holidays. Two are blends that show the whole is often greater than the individual parts, and the third is a single vineyard effort that highlights the unique personality of its specific location. 

Cloudline Pinot Noir Willamette Valley ‘02 - $17.99/$14.40
A new face on the scene, Cloudline is a negociant project from importer Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., the long-time distributor of Domaine Drouhin Oregon. DDO’s Veronique Drouhin is the consulting winemaker, and it shows in this nuanced and complex wine that whispers Burgundy while talking Oregon. Sweet cherry-raspberry and spicy floral notes abound on the nose and palate, with a touch of briar and faint toasty oak adding personality. Deceptively demure, its airiness belies its sophistication and range of subtle yet myriad flavors. A real class-act.
J.K. Carriere Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 - $34.99/$28 by the case.
Jim Prosser has once again hit the ball out of the park with this one. A combination of four unique vineyards with distinct personalities, the resulting complexity and waves of flavor go on and on. Elegance and richness combine with underlying power to deliver the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Deep cherry, berry and cranberry flavors, forest floor, and floral spice partner with fine tannins and balanced acidity to do the tango in your mouth. 
Cristom Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Marjorie Vineyard 2002 - $48.99/$39 by the case. 
This is the finest Marjorie bottling since 1998 and it’s a real stunner. On original rootstock planed in the early 1980s, this is Cristom’s oldest single vineyard. The mid-slope uphill site seems to bring out an earthiness that mingles with huge spicy cherry and raspberry flavors to provide complexity and great depth beneath the surface. It’s rich and sappily delicious, while remaining elegant, bright and powerful. The Marjorie drinks wonderfully today, but make sure to cellar some to gain complexity and finesse down the road. 

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March 2005

Stonecroft Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
While there are still plenty of excellent Oregon Pinot Noir from the exciting 2002 vintage (we’ve never seen such an embarrassment of riches), options under $20 are shrinking daily. The early 2003 releases in general offer loads of rich fruit but so far lack the balance that made the 2002s so captivating. Enter Stonecroft, a limited-production label made by the winemaker at Firesteed, a nationally recognized leader in value-priced Oregon Pinot Noir. Having little familiarity with the label and consequently not expecting too much, we were very pleasantly surprised. It has the hallmarks of the 2002 vintage all over it, and we couldn’t ask for more than that for $15. The fragrant, almost floral aromatics are complex and inviting with bright raspberry, dark cherry, and woodspice. On the palate, the dark cherry flavors take over with good structure and balance. Much more than one would expect for this price, this is a slightly serious, well-put together pinot noir. The only problem: we found it late in the game so there’s not much left. Check out one of the few remaining deals left from 2002 before it too, is gone. 
Fructus Rosso Conero 2003 - $11.99/$9.50 by the case.
Fructus is the Italian wine equivalent of the “everyman”. After one taste, you think “I’ve been here before...and I like it”. With America’s ongoing love affair with Italian food, and Italian wines in general being so food-friendly, the quest for the perfect affordable Italian red is always lurking. Portland has plenty to choose from, but right now the Fructus star is shining bright. Made from 100% Montepulciano grapes, it’s heady and robust with fleshy black cherry and boysenberry fruit flavors and a lingering fragrant spiciness. Despite it’s richness, the typical Italian food-friendly acidity keeps it balanced, adding a sense of elegance and complexity. Rosso Conero is an appellation about midway down the Adriatic coast that has been hot lately, churning out reds of flavor and personality for a fraction of the cost of some of Italy’s better-known regions. 
Pascual Toso Reserve Malbec Mendoza 2002 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Argentina is currently the most dynamic winegrowing nation in South America, and the two Ms, Mendoza (region) and Malbec (grape) are the reason why. Easy to grow in the sunny south, Malbec yields tasty, medium-weight wines that fairly burst with rich ripe fruit and zesty spice. Generally reasonably priced, they have been a popular staple of our Case of the Month for some time. Recently we’ve tried some reserve-level wines, and were thrilled to find that they can really take the grape to the next level for not a lot more money. Example: Pascual Toso Reserve. Ripe and spicy, with an alluring richness and deep, flavorful fruit that is amazingly balanced and full of finesse for such a full-throttle wine. An added bonus: Malbec is a great food wine that can work with a large variety of dishes.

Great Value Alert:  2002 White Burgundies, get 'em while you can!
Many of the delicious and classic 2002 French Chardonnay from Burgundy have come and gone, but we're here to trumpet the return of a favorite and a tasty new arrival.

Michel Briday Rully 2002 - $19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
Dom. Briday produces very classy and stylish Rully. Located in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte de Beaune, Rully is best characterized by fresh clean pure chardonnay fruit flavors. The Briday '02 is an opulent, flavorful wine with concentrated apple and pear fruit notes, plus a touch of nuttiness, which is matched by a focused limestone minerality. This was our favorite reasonably-priced White Burgundy last year.
Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé  "La Frarie" 2002 - $21.99/$17.50 by the case. 
Many of Jean-Pierre Auvigue's wines in 2002 have come through the shop, and we've found them to be varied in personality, but consistent in exceptional quality and value. The La Frarie is typical of the 2002 vintage: both refreshingly crisp with candied-lemon citrus notes, minerals and zippy acidity, and rich with ripe pear and green apple flavors. It does a great job of walking the line between the two contrasts, making this Pouilly-Fuissé another great value in our book.

Three Winners from Spain 
We continue to be blown away by the absolutely delicious parade of Spanish reds coming through the shop door (the whites are delicious too!) Spain is blessed with plenty of low-yielding, old-vine vineyards, little irrigation, a long history of winemaking and varietals such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Monastrell that exhibit real character. The result is a proud tradition of classically-styled wines that is being improved upon by new and old winemakers alike. An added dimension are the New World-styled blends that mix Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah with the traditional varieties to offer consumers wines of every style and price. Here are three big winners from recent tastings, ranging from a blind 10-bottle shootout to a recent Saturday threesome:

El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa, Old Vines Grenache, Navarra - $12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Made from vines that are more than 60 years old, this wine lures you in with aromas of bright, juicy red fruits mixed with dusty spice. The seduction continues as cherry and raspberry flavors dance with hints of licorice and pepper, balanced by gentle acidity and ripe tannins. It's an elegant wine that packs a wallop of flavor while being light on its feet, sweeping you away to a long, satisfying finish. If you've enjoyed wines from the southern Rhone or one of our previous Spanish grenache favorites (Vigna Alarba, Mas Donis, Tres Ojos), beware - few will be able to resist the siren's lure of this old vine Spanish Grenache.
Bodegas Lan Reserva, Rioja, 1998 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
The consensus favorite a few Saturdays ago, this mostly-Tempranillo blend from Rioja is a step up from the regular bottling and sees more time in small oak barrels and more years of bottle aging. Bolder and lusher than traditionally-styled Tempranillo, the Lan Reserva is visibly darker in the glass. Flavors of dark cherry and dark berries, vanilla and oak spice, pepper and a hint of mint are well-balanced with moderate acidity and tannins. This would pair well with hearty dishes, roasted meats and many Spanish cheeses or Jamon Serrano.
Bodegas y Vinedos, Alion, Ribera del Duero, 1997 - $26.99/$21.50 by the case. 
Vega Sicilia is one of the great estates of Spain and the Alvarez Diez family also owns the neighboring Alion estate, where they produce this more modern-styled 100% Tempranillo. It's an absolute steal at this price. The Alion recently placed second in a blind tasting of Spanish wines where the winner cost almost three times as much. A very polished, lush wine that displays great complexity while balancing layers of dark raspberry fruit, some bright floral spice and hints of cocoa, smoky oak, and a meaty earthiness. It drinks beautifully now, but is wound enough to cellar and get even better. This is an outrageously low price; the 1998 is $50 and the 1999 is $60!
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April 2005

BIG Cabernet, small Availability... Justin Isosceles 2002, Owen Roe DuBrul Vineyard 2003

Thierry Descombes Juliénas Cru Beaujolais 2003 - $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
There’s Beaujolais and then there’s Cru Beaujolais. Although both are produced from the Gamay Noir grape, Cru Beaujolais comes from one of ten specified villages that have been recognized to produce grapes of higher quality than the overall Beaujolais region. Calling them Premier Cru or Grand Cru vineyards (as in the rest of Burgundy) is certainly a stretch but it’s the same idea. Cru Beaujolais worthy of its name is richer, more powerful, and more pinot noir-like than what most people think of as Beaujolais; given a good one, most people would never guess it was Beaujolais. Juliénas is considered one of the top three Cru, its steep hillsides producing serious, intensely-flavored reds full of body and personality.

The searing heat of 2003 that was so great for the Rhône Valley also produced some of the best Beaujolais seen in a long time, maybe ever. No less an expert than Monsieur Beaujolais himself, Georges DuBoeuf said: “2003 is the greatest vintage for Beaujolais in my lifetime”. A late spring frost set the stage early by reducing potential yield, and the sun did the rest, fully ripening the grapes and concentrating the juice. Harvest began the earliest since 1757 (yes, as in 250 years ago!) to prevent over-ripeness.

And the taste? Lush, round, and full with gorgeous perfume and ripe red fruit aromatics, it expands on the palate offering cranberry, cherry, and red plum flavors with sappy, loosely gripping tannins on the finish. Theoretical recipe: Take a good pinot noir, soften it up a little, concentrate it, add perfume, and serve. 

St. Innocent Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Villages Cuvée 2003 - $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
In general, the 2003 Oregon vintage produced rich, heady, somewhat atypical pinot noir due to the long, hot summer that pushed up ripeness and alcohol levels. Some consumers will love them for precisely this reason, but to pinot purists, some wines may seem over the top. The best wines however, managed to maintain acid/fruit balance, keep alcohol in check and take advantage of the big, rich flavors. Unsurprisingly St. Innocent turned out a winner here, with smoky and ripe dark cherry and raspberry flavors mingling with a deep, earthy note, floral spice and even a bit of bright citrus. While displaying the lushness of the vintage and a healthy dose of ripe tannins, the wine also has an underpinning of jazzy acidity that keeps it lively and fresh-tasting, thanks to a portion of higher-elevation Temperance Hill fruit that withstood the heat better than lower sites. In the typical St. Innocent tradition, this wine can be aged for a few years or enjoyed with a variety of food as soon as you get home.
Domaine de L’Ameillaud Cairanne Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2003 - $12.99/$10.40 by the case.
Speaking of all that 2003 heat, the ‘03 Rhônes continue to roll in much to everyone’s delight. This has been in for a few months, but a recent tasting reminded us why we like it so much. L’Ameillaud is just a Côtes du Rhône producer (as opposed to a Châteauneuf producer making a Côtes du Rhône with leftover wine). This lets them focus all their energy on their $13 bottling and it shows. Recently tasting through a flight of ’03 Rhône reds, this stood out as the most balanced, elegant, and complete. Open and inviting, with roasted dark cherry and black raspberry fruit, interspersed with wonderful garrigue and white pepper notes. Made from 40-60 year-old vines, there is plenty of heady richness, but its superb balance is what really makes it sing. 
Isenhower Snapdragon Viognier/Roussanne 2003 - $17.99/$14.40 by the case. 
We’re always on the hunt for wines that have the three Fs: Fun, Flavorful, and Funky (in a good way!) because they usually lead to great wine experiences. California’s Rhône Rangers, for example, proved that years ago. Our winemaking friends across the river in Washington have taken up the torch and are planting more and more French Rhône varietals. This white blend of Viognier and Rousanne is packed with flavors ranging from tropical mango and pineapple, to peach, pear and orange tea. The magical yin/yang wine thing is happening, as richness and zippy acidity come out of their opposite corners to give the Snapdragon a burst of personality. It’s a balanced 3F wine whose layers of flavors and textures will be great solo, or with seafood, Asian, light vegetarian fare and poultry.
Ca’ del Baio Barbera 2003 - $12.99/$10.40 by the case. 
This direct import has been an excellent value for years, but this 2003 really shines. A traditionally-styled Italian from a small family-run estate, it’s layered with all the flavors of Piedmont, yet is smooth and polished without sacrificing personality. The nose grabs your attention with an enticing blend of smoky wet earth (almost like peat moss) and cranberry/orange peel. On the palate the intense dark fruit mixes with tart raspberry, earthy spice and mild tannins. Its real purpose is alongside food, where it will complement anything from roasted or braised meats to hearty pasta. 

Please Call me a Cab 
Thanks to a thorough Walla Walla trade tasting and two recent in-depth Cabernet tastings in the shop, we’ve got Cab (and Cab-based blends) on the brain. From three different tastings, these very different winners stood out.

Reininger Helix Pomatia 2002 - $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
A new second label from Reininger, Helix will showcase the wider Columbia Valley area, versus the main label’s Walla Walla Valley focus. A Pomatia is a small Burgundian snail usually served as escargot. For winemaker Chuck Reininger, the snail represents a measured, respectful approach to winemaking, where the goal is to let the fruit’s nuances and personality come through without too much interference. This blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc wowed us when we tasted it, serving notice that the $18-$25 range continues to be a sweet spot that delivers delicious Washington reds at great price. Like most Reininger wines, the Pomatia is darkly colored, very smooth, and full of juicy boysenberry and plum fruit, smoky cedar, a touch of coffee and a hint of herbs. 
Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2002 - $19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
This stood out from the competition for its restrained yet gregarious fruit profile, judicious use of oak, balance and lip-smacking finish — all this at a bargain price by California Cab standards. Best known for their hugely popular and hard-to-get Isosceles Bordeaux-style blend (see below), Justin farms 160+ acres in the Central Coast region near Paso Robles. Iron-fisted yield control, dry farming and velvet glove handling produce wines that are densely packed with flavor, yet elegant. Dark cherry and berry fruit, a bit of classic Paso Robles earthiness, and a touch of mocha and toasty wood flavors all ride on lush textures toward a lengthy finish. 
Justin Isosceles 2002 – Very limited. - $49.99
This top-end bottling is always in short supply thanks to an excellent track record and rave reviews. No word yet on this new release, but California ‘02 in general may be even a better year than ’01. “A classic California vintage, it offers ripe, rich, exuberant, full-throttle, intensely forward wines.”- Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.
Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley 2003 - $59.99/$48 by the case.
Owen Roe’s highest-level offering (if you are at all familiar with their wines, you can imagine what that means), this was so limited in years past that it appeared regularly in our “Can’t Get Cab Tasting” alongside such heavyweights as Leonetti and Quilceda Creek. Although still very limited, it was just released, and once again proved to be awesome in a recent round-up of Cabernet powerhouses. One of Washington’s best, it balances power and intensity with an elegance and depth rarely seen in this state’s lusty reds, thanks to its forbidding vineyard site. An almost barren rocky outcropping, the cool parcel allows acids to flourish, balancing the concentrated fruit flavors and adding complexity. Although already remarkably drinkable, this baby has years of life ahead of it. If you can hang out to it, that is... 
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May 2005

The Beaux Freres Vineyard 2003
$69.99
The original estate vineyard has vines ranging between 10-18 years old and it shows in the wine’s complexity: the trademark dark fruit (black cherry, boysenberries, plum), cinnamon and floral spice, and an intriguing earthy smokiness. The wine is darkly colored and full-bodied, with a sneaky pulse of intensity and power lurking under the smooth fruit up top. Although it drinks great now, it’s no fruit bomb. Ripe tannins and good acidity provide plenty of structure and balance, which bodes well for successful ageing. This just received 95 points from the Wine Spectator and is sure to disappear quickly, as it always does. 
Upper Terrace Vineyard 2003
$69.99
The second release from the newer 40-acre estate vineyard is even better than the fantastic inaugural 2002, which was so limited very few customers ever saw it. It offers a different expression of the gorgeously versatile Pinot Noir varietal (explained partly by the Dijon clones they planted whereas the original estate block is Pommard and Wadenswill.) Where the Beaux Frères Vineyard is deep, intense and supple, the Upper Terrace seems more sinewy and powerful, with a leaner punch that works well with the flavorful, rich fruit. It also displays bright, dark flavors such as black cherry, raspberry, marionberry and plum, along with wood spice and an earthy note. The future looks bright for this vineyard. 94 points, Wine Spectator.
Belles Soeurs Willamette Valley 2003
$44.99/$36 by the case.
This is a blend of the Beaux Frères, Shea, and Ana Vineyards with a touch of Grenache from the Upper Terrace. The winemakers felt the blend created the most complex and satisfying wine, so they sacrificed the single-vineyard bottlings this vintage and added in extra barrels from the flagship Beaux Frères Vineyard. Medium-bodied, supple and filled with juicy sweet cherry and raspberries, a hint of orange zest, spice, and smoky oak. It’s a delicious offering as usual. 93 points, Wine Spectator.

More 2003 Oregon Pinot Noir Gems
The always-popular spring Oregon Pinot Noir classes showed that the warm 2003 vintage produced ripe, big-boned wines that have more weight and power than usual. Veteran winemakers were able to use knowledge gleaned from our string of warm-weather years to create balanced, nuanced wines that offer lots of drinking pleasure. Here are three standouts that were top-ranked on both nights of the class:

Cameron Dundee Hills 2003
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Formerly Cameron’s Willamette Valley bottling, the new Dundee Hills AVA designation makes its debut. If you loved the great 2002 Arley’s Leap pinot, then this wine will bring back memories. It displays the same mid-weight, silky texture with pretty dark cherry, plum and raspberry flavors. A touch of toasty oak, vanilla and floral spice adds depth and complexity. The wine is a blend of barrels from familiar Cameron single-vineyard sources: mostly Abbey Ridge Vineyard, with a healthy dose of Gherts Vineyard and several from the estate’s Clos Electrique parcel.
St. Innocent White Rose 2003
$35.99/$28.75 by the case.
If the Cameron is silky, this wine is downright sensual. White Rose vineyard sits atop the Dundee Hills and is one of Oregon’s distinctive vineyards. St. I winemaker Mark Vlossak says this is the best White Rose he’s ever made, and we’d have to heartily agree. It’s velvety smooth and rich, but not heavy, and displays a seamless parade of flavors: the perfume of namesake white rose, bright raspberries and cherries, plum, a hint of pencil lead and smoky oak. A streak of minerality and perfectly-balanced acid and tannins add a touch of raciness en route to a long, silky finish. Wow.
Gypsy Dancer Emily’s Reserve 2003
$31.99/$25.50 by the case. 
Gary Andrus’ 2002 debut after he sold Archery Summit was wildly popular and sold out quickly, which will probably happen with his follow-up releases. The 2003 Emily’s Reserve is 100% Stoller Vineyard fruit and has the hallmark spicy and ripe dark cherry and marionberry flavors matched with a rich texture and bright intensity. Full of sweet toasty oak and vanilla, it’s juicy and ready to drink and should be a perfect partner for barbequed chicken, ribs, burgers and the like this spring and summer. 

White Wine Wonderland 
Oregon’s wine reputation may rest on powerful and elegant Pinot Noir, but we’ve been amazed at the skyrocketing quality and variety of white wines being produced here. Maybe that’s because winemakers often express the crazy and creative side of their personality through their whites, so they’re just plain fun to drink.

The following wines are some of the first arrivals of the Northwest Warm Season (the one when you don’t mind the rain), with many more to come. Each is a textbook example of its varietal, yet delivers a unique experience pleasantly different from the next.

Siltstone Pinot Gris Guadalupe Vineyard 2004
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
This deeply rich, crisp gris is made by Joel Meyers, the vineyard manager at Guadalupe Vineyard (and several wineries as well including Domaine Serene and Soter). Comprised of hand-selected lots from Guadalupe, it’s brimming with citrus, pear, apricot and hints of tropical fruit, and is one of the most flavor-packed pinot gris we’ve tasted recently. The richness is well-balanced by brisk acidity and an underlying minerality that adds complexity before leading to a dry, pure finish. A great value.
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2004
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
The 2002 version of this wine was easily one of our favorite white blends last year. As irreverent as winemaker Jay Sommers himself, the Cristo Misto blend shifts each vintage to take advantage of a particular year’s strengths. The 2004 explodes with different personalities that end up in perfect harmony. It’s light and fast on its feet, delivers a smooth, mid-weight mouthfeel, and shoots off zippy flavors ranging from floral spice to lemon/line to green apple, melon and on to peach. You can thank the blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and a touch of Riesling for the tastebud fireworks. .
Francis-Tannahill Dragonfly Gewurztraminer 2003
$21.99/$17.50 by the case.
This wine’s exotic aromatics alone could keep you occupied for days. An exuberant perfume of rose petal, potpourri spice, fruity lychee and apricot swirls around your nose, leading into the pure matching flavors. It’s dry, but the lush, powerful presentation brings out the fruitiness into a long, long finish. A perfect match with Thai and Indian food and great with cheese.
Poet’s Leap Riesling 2003
$21.99/$17.50 case.
Poet’s Leap is the first release from Allen Shoup’s new Long Shadow Vintners. The former head of Chateau St. Michelle Wine Estates has partnered with many of the world’s best winemakers to create individual small wineries which will produce one Washington wine apiece. Armin Diel of Germany’s Schlossgut Diel is making the Poet’s Leap Riesling, and his experience shows. Classic citrus, apricot, mango and floral spice flavors ride a wave of elegant, light structure that is simply beautiful.
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June 2005

Small Vineyards Spotlight
Since his first hugely successful tasting here last November, Tom Kelley of Small Vineyards has continued to supply us with superb Italian wines. Started just a few years ago in Seattle by two young dreamers, Small Vineyards scours the forgotten corners of Italy (and forgotten producers, based on their limited production) with the optimistic belief that there still remains great wine overlooked by the big importers. Their (and your) reward for this dedication is a treasure trove of authentic Italian wines filled with personality and character, most selling well below the going rate for more recognizable names. This “under the radar” approach has landed us some of the most popular Italian wines currently selling in the shop. 

We picked up these four new arrivals at a recent direct import tasting; although there was plenty to like, these stood out as exceptional values. 

Perazzeta “Rita” Sangiovese 2003  $18.99/$15 by the case.
Another gem from the hot (literally and figuratively) Maremma region in southern Tuscany, this 100% sangiovese is reminiscent of the ever-popular Brunello di Montalcino and with good reason: the Perazzeta estate shares a border with Montalcino. Aged in new French oak, it is a modern-styled Tuscan red (like most of the “super Tuscans” coming out of the Maremma region) but does not sacrifice its character or complexity. Similar in spirit to another Small Vineyards favorite from the same region (Fattoria Capannacce), the Perazzeta offers that unmistakable Italian-ness as well as a palate-caressing richness. Dark cherry and plum fruit flavors intermingle with a woodsy spice and wild herb notes. Full-bodied, the ample fruit is balanced by soft yet structured tannins, and the oak makes a sexy addition without being too flashy. In short, a delicious “baby Brunello” ready to go. 

Salsole Sannio Aglianico 2003  $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Aglianico was until recently an obscure varietal, largely unknown outside of southern Italy, one of many that produced typical Italian country wines, hearty and rustic but hardly considered world-class. Things started to change in the 1970’s when a quality-conscious younger generation started to take pride in their heritage, literally thousands of years of grape cultivation and some of the most notable wines of ancient Rome. Nowadays, the Campania region (just below Italy’s shin) is one of the most innovative and successful regions in all of Italy, with Aglianico the most important red varietal. Introduced by the Greeks, Aglianico can produce wines of complexity and distinction that capture the powerful dry heat of the south yet offer more than baked fruit. The Salsole is medium to full-bodied with a black raspberry and kirsch (cherry liqueur) sappiness, Asian spices and gentle tannins on the finish. 

Casa Contini “Biferno” Riserva 2001  $10.99/$8.80 by the case. 
A great example of the bargains that Small Vineyards stumbles upon, this southern Italian blend (85% Montepulciano, 15% Aglianico) is not your typical one-note rustic country wine, it’s just priced that way. With production and grape costs a fraction of what they are in more developed regions like Tuscany, Casa Contini can take the time and care to create a well-made wine and still offer it for a song. Aged an amazing 18 months in large oak casks, followed by 18 months in stainless and 6 months in the bottle, this “riserva” is mellow and silky smooth with a soft cushiony texture. Wild blackberry, blueberry and smoky peppery notes make it a classy addition to grilled meats or pasta carbonara.

Terre Gaie Soave 2004  $10.99/$8.80 case. 
Fresh off the boat, this is more than just a refreshingly delicious Italian white meant for summer sipping. It has flavor, character, and that holy grail in white wines, a core of minerality that gives it backbone, verve, and allure. Clean and focused with lively citrus fruit playing off the underlying stoniness, it offers the versatility of a light-and-bright Italian white without becoming a wallflower.

Atelier Rueda 2003  $12.99/$10.40 case. 
Not from Small Vineyards or even Italy, this was one of our favorite whites we tasted last month (and we taste a LOT of whites). The Rueda region of Spain is in full renaissance. A few years ago, it was hard to even find one. Now, each one we taste seems better and more surprising than the last. Verdejo, the backbone grape of the region, was ignored and almost forgotten in favor of more prolific (but less interesting flavor-wise) varietals. Happily, Spanish viticulture is focusing more on quality than quantity, and regions like Rueda are at the forefront. Reminiscent of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with slightly grassy grapefruit and lime notes, the citrus suddenly turns to ripe peach, fleshy yet light on its feet, with a zesty chameleon catch-me-if-you-can playfulness. Is this a wine description? Oh come on, it’s summertime!

The Artistry of Grower Champagnes

Most wine drinkers are familiar with the big names of Champagne such as Veuve Cliquot, Moet, etc. These large companies purchase thousands of tons of grapes to produce millions of bottles. The wines are all about blending multiple vintages and regions into a consistent, recognizable “house style”. Even the single-vintage wines such as Dom Perignon, Cristal, etc. are blended this way. Many of these Champagnes are excellent, and we heartily sell a variety of them.

At the other end of the spectrum are the so-called “grower Champagnes” produced by thousands of small farmers who raise their own grapes, then produce and bottle small quantities of wine. Working within an individual village or region, these winemakers strive to create Champagnes that reflect their terroir: the soil types, microclimates, vines, grape varieties, etc. that are unique to each. 

These Champagnes are also blended, but in a narrower range, and with the difference in vintages being more transparent. The end result is a personal statement, an artisanal wine filled with character that reflects the heart and passion of the producer. One grower’s Champagne may be rich and creamy, another’s nervy and high-strung, but each is unique.

A word about Champagne and food: it’s not just for wedding toasts, appetizers and special occasions. The refined flavors and bright acidity work perfectly with shellfish, creamy pastas, poultry, Asian specialties and more. Give it a try!

Here’s a description of several Grower Champagnes we’re bringing into the shop with this new shipment:

A. Margaine Brut Rosé NV  $44.99 
From Villers, a blend of 88% chardonnay and 12% pinot noir. Bright and juicy, with a rich, creamy texture .

A. Margaine Brut Cuvée Traditionelle $41.99 
Mostly chardonnay with a touch of pinot noir for richness. Balanced and elegant, yet also a touch of chalk and racy citrus.

Pierre Gimonnet Cuis 1er Cru NV  $44.99
100% Cuis chardonnay. Classic crisp citrus and tropical notes with a delicate, balanced complexity and a long finish. 

Chartogne-Taillet Blanc de Blancs 1996  $52.99
From Merfy, mostly pinot noir with a bit of chardonnay. Has the minerality and raciness of 1996 with a rich finish. 
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July 2005
2003 Chateauneuf du Pape
The southern Rhône is back with a vengeance. After a disastrous harvest in 2002 (hail, floods, locusts, etc.), 2003 was hot hot hot, signaling a return to the string of exceptional vintages the region enjoyed from 1998-2001. The grapes there love the heat, producing intensely flavored big wines, broad on the palate and richly textured. Need to age they do not (as Yoda would say); several that we’ve tasted so far are ready to roll. Robert Parker’s exuberant reviews below capture the excitement these wines are generating.
Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée du Baron 2003 
$41.99/$33.50 by the case.
A February pre-release tasting with importer Alain Junguenet offered over twenty high quality Chateauneufs, this was one of our favorites. With a healthy dose of Mourvedre (the blend is equal parts Grenache, Syrah, & Mourvedre), this has a backbone of dark earthy fruit which holds all the richness together. “[These 2003’s] may be the finest two wines Fortia has produced since their prodigious 1978, particularly the Cuvée du Baron [which] boasts a gloriously perfumed nose of accacia flowers, raspberries, blackberries, cherries, and hints of licorice as well as incense. Full-bodied, with tremendous intensity, purity, glycerin, and alcohol, it should drink well young (because of low acidity and high glycerin/alcohol) but evolve for 10-15+ years. 92-94 points.” LIMITED AVAILABILITY!
Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
$36.99/$29.50 by the case.
Another favorite from the Junguenet tasting, prized for its prettiness, polish, and outright deliciousness, this is one sexy Chateauneuf. Parker calls it “the Volnay of Chateauneuf”: “The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape is filled with elegance, finesse, and precision, offering wonderfully sweet cherry and strawberry fruit intermixed with notes of crushed rocks and loamy soil. Elegant, pure, fresh, and full-bodied, with a refreshing delicacy and vigor (a difficult characteristic to achieve in this vintage), this 2003 is a classic example of a marriage between finesse and power. 90-92 points.” 
Domaine La Millière Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 2003
$39.99/$32 by the case.
Another seductive bottling that has Rhône fans swooning; “This stunning 2003 is a seriously endowed, sexy, exuberant, fabulously perfumed effort. The dark plum/ruby/purple color is accompanied by complex aromas of flowers, licorice, black and red fruits, incense, and Asian spices. There are layers of fruit, medium to full body, an opulent texture, tremendous density as well as depth, and great overall balance.” 92-95 points. LIMITED AVAILABILITY
Domaine Lafond Lirac Blanc 2004 
$17.99/$14.40 by the case. 
While Chateauneuf du Pape is the undisputed king of the southern Rhône, Lirac is the forgotten cousin; situated on the lonely left bank of the river, Lirac does not enjoy the vaunted reputation of its right bank siblings. As with many things in life, sometimes this is warranted, sometimes not. This overlooked gem goes a long way in proving Lirac’s worth. Possessing that rare combination of precision and richness, the mineral-tinged acidity has focus and “snap’ that is the perfect foil to the opulent fleshy fruit. The white peach/pear fruit is generous and mouth-filling yet overall the wine is lively, vibrant and amazingly dry.

La Vie en Rose 
These days, Portland is an embarrassment of riches when it comes to rosé. To ground myself when confronted with the ever-mounting selection I think about several years ago when rosé drinking was simpler: “Rosés say “summer” more than any other wine, and the key to enjoying them is not expecting too much, but rather viewing them in context of time and place, namely summer and out-of-doors. Like many things (turkey at Thanksgiving, champagne on New Year’s Eve), what they represent is ultimately worth more that what they are. With fewer and fewer traditions to mark the passage of seasons, a cold glass of rosé in the garden makes one realize and be thankful it’s summer before it’s gone.” 
Domaine de L’Hortus Coteaux du Languedoc ‘04 
$12.99/$10.40 by the case. 
Once upon a time, this was one of the only rosés Portland even saw; luckily it was terrific and became the de facto southern French rosé all over town. Despite Portland now being flooded with pink wine, the L’Hortus still holds it own. After the uncharacteristic ‘03 (many ‘03 rosés suffered from the intense heat) the ‘04 returns to the glory days with everything that made it so popular for so long. Fresh, lively, juicy, and downright Big Gulp-able, this is exactly what rosé should be, delicious, refreshing, and pink! 
Chateau d’Oupia Minervois 2004
$9.99/$7.99 case. 
Another shop favorite these last few years, the Oupia is also from the Languedoc region and made with similar varietals (Grenache, Syrah) but hews to the lighter, more delicate style of rosé. Although no lightweight, it is more pretty, more floral, and drier than the more rambunctious l’Hortus. 
Provenza Chiaretto Garda Classico 
2004 $11.99/$9.60 case
A relative newcomer but a welcome one at that, this northern Italian beauty has been turning heads and tickling palates for a couple of years and the 2004 is like a visit from an old friend. A blend of Sangiovese, Barbera, Marzemino, and Grappello, it’s refined, elegant and classy, yet full of red fruit flavor and even a touch of minerality to keep it interesting. One of our most popular rosés two years running. 
Bastas Italian Dinner Highlights
June’s Italian Wine Tour and Dinner at Bastas was a great success; almost drowning in a seemingly endless parade of superb wines, we were saved from liquid excess by the wonderful cooking of chef Marco Frattaroli. Although all the wines were high quality, these customer favorites stood out from the rest as excellent values, interesting personalities, and just plain good to drink. 
Altavilla della Corte Grillo Sicily 2004
$11.99/ $9.60 by the case.
A gorgeous white from Sicily, this has all the characteristics of an easy summer quaffer yet is also serious, complex, and enticing. Grillo is an old Sicilian varietal that when done well, produces wines redolent of almonds, fresh flowers, apples, and hints of wild herb.
Pra Soave Classico Monte Grande 2003
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
A Three Glass winner from Gambero Rosso, this Soave boasts the usual supple texture, crisp acidity and full flavors that make it a great food wine, but adds a degree of richness normally unheard of in this 
price range. Floral spice, candied citrus, apple and subtle minerality create a complex web of flavors.
Icardi Suri di Mu Barbera d'Alba 2001
$24.99/$20 by the case
One of the evening's big favorites, everyone was impressed with the depth and richness of flavor from this Barbera. Maybe it's a result of a prime vineyard site, very low yields and 18 months in French oak. Dark berry fruit, racy spiciness, a touch of oak and earth make this a stylish wine that's sure to impress.

In memoriam
Rachel R. Starr
July 1944-June 2005
Founder, Great Wine Buys
Oregon Wine Pioneer, All-Around Iconoclast, Friend
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August 2005

Owen Roe Abbot’s Table 2004 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Hands down, this is one of our best-sellers year after year. It sells like mad for four or five months until it’s gone which leads to laments of “I should have bought more” (Abbot’s addicts they’re called). Why is it so popular? Because it’s delicious, of course! Rich and flavorful and complex and versatile and tasty and...and...and it’s got a pretty label! Really, though, it’s a fabulous wine for the money; if you have had it, you know. If you haven’t, and you’re interested in wine enough to be reading this, you owe it to yourself to see what the fuss is all about.
A blend of five or more varietals (that changes every vintage), Abbot’s is prized for its luxurious richness, velvety mouth-feel, and overall complexity. The Bordelais figured it out long ago: A well-done blend can easily become much more than the sum of its individual parts. The 2004 is Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated (44%) followed by Syrah (13%, for spiciness), Merlot (13%, to soften), Cabernet Franc (9%, heightened aromatics) and Zinfandel (8%, big brambly fruit). Less than 4% each of grenache, malbec, pinot noir, and counoise adds subtle hints of this and that. Total = a winner. 

Phantom Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2001 $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Like Archery Summit and Gypsy Dancer but at a value price? Welcome to the little-known back door. With deals like this, there is always a story. Gary Andrus (former owner/winemaker at Archery Summit and current owner/winemaker at Gypsy Dancer) owns a vineyard with friend Anthony Maretea (A&G vineyard) and makes wine for him under the Phantom Hill label. This 2001 was made at Archery Summit with fruit from the highly-rated A&G vineyard (Gypsy Dancer ’02 got 92 points, ‘03 got 90 in the Wine Spectator and sells for $60) but got buried in the shuffle when Gary sold Archery Summit and started Gypsy Dancer, etc. Eager to move on, they lowered the price from their original plan ($30) and had a blowout: the wine is gone (except of course what we have stashed in back). The next vintage will however be back up at $30 so take advantage now. The wine is pure Gary Andrus style: a silky seamless mouth-feel, dark fruit shades of cherry and black raspberry and a vanilla oaky toasty-ness. Although 2001 was overall a lighter vintage than ’02 or ’03, this actually seems like an advantage here: although opulent and toasty, there is real finesse and elegance to balance the richness.

Wines to Beat the Heat
J. Christopher Sauvignon Blanc Croft Vineyard 2004 $16.99/$13.60 by the case.
The hits just keep on coming from this guy. His 2004 Christo Misto sold out in a month; ditto for his Chardonnay. Enter his 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, arguably the best of the bunch. With all the focus and precision expected of Jay’s whites, this once again has the requisite fleshy fruit to create a wine of balance, power, and length. Croft vineyard’s sedimentary soil adds that sought-after minerality to the otherwise floral aromatics and gooseberry/grapefruit flavors, and different yeast strains added to individual small stainless steel tanks boosts complexity. If you liked the 2004 Christo Misto, be sure to check this out. 
Tohu Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand 2004 $9.99/$7.99 by the case. 
Although we love the above-mentioned Oregon Sauvignon Blanc, this deal was too good to pass up, not to mention it is a totally different style (part of the chameleon charm of this varietal). Regular list price hovers around $15 which is more than fair; this limited special pricing is a giveaway, provided you like the New Zealand style. Intensely flavorful and intensely green (lime, granny smith apple, green olive), it takes a few sips to adjust the palate, but once done, you’re in for a zippy ride. The Wine Spectator put it nicely: “This lively, zingy style fairly jumps out of the glass with its stony lime and guava flavors, hinting at quince as the finish lingers on and on. 90 points”. 
Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rosé 2004 $26.99/$21.50 by the case. 
Bandol (located right on the Mediterranean) is home to many of France’s most structured and full-flavored rosés and Pradeaux is one of its top domaines. Made from 25-year-old Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache vines, the salmon/copper hue and spicy strawberry/cherry flavors put a pretty face on a full-bodied and complex wine. More expensive than the typical rosé, yes, but worth it: the combination of power, balance and intense flavor delivers one of the best rosés we’ve had this summer.

Small Vineyards and Basta’s Italian Seafood and Wine Festa
It took a few days to recover from the fun and amazing six-course, all-seafood extravaganza presented by chef Marco Frattaroli, which were paired perfectly with a lineup of delicious offerings from Italian wine impresario Tom Kelly of Small Vineyards. Here are three highlights that stood out for their great flavor and bargain prices.
Marchetti Verdicchio dei Castello di Jesi 2004 $10.99/$8.75 case.
From the Marche region near the Adriatic coast, this crisp, light Verdicchio delivers lemon and apple notes and a hint of minerality that paired perfectly with both fresh Yellowtail in a citrus vinaigrette and crunchy, salty anchovies. Young and fruity and a perfect summer wine.
Trevisiol Prosecco 2003 $12.99/$10.40 by the case. 
A classic sparkling wine from the Veneto, this has been a great seller in the shop for months. Bold and fruity, yet delicate and light on it’s feet, the Trevisiol’s subtle floral aromas and citrus and peach flavors make it smoother and brighter than Champagne. It was incredible with spot prawns at the dinner.

Fratelli Barba Colle Morino Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2003 $10.99/$8.75 by the case. 
We loved the 2002 version of this wine, but the 2003 is even plusher and more flavorful and pairs well with an incredible array of foods. Flavors of ripe plum and dark cherries are joined by a smoky, earthy touch that adds complexity. This sang with zesty cheese ravioli topped with fresh Chinook salmon and a chunky red sauce. 
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September 2005

A Word of Thanks…
It’s been another great year here, especially this summer when Great Wine Buys was recognized in both Willamette Week’s and Portland Monthly’s “Best of the City” guides. Portland Monthly states that when it comes to wine shops, “hordes of Portlanders recommend Great Wine Buys as the best all-around.” We don’t know which “hordes” of you it was, but as we approach our 6th year anniversary, a big thank you is in order to all our customers. 

We are fortunate to have such a nice and wonderful clientele; we obviously couldn’t do it without you. 

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow (Two northwest favorites sure to disappear quickly)

Owen Roe Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir Oregon 2004
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Coming fast on the heels of its similarly styled sibling (Abbot’s Table), last year it borrowed some of the Abbot’s magic and quickly became a major pinot noir phenomenon. Lush, gorgeous, sexy, people like that in a pinot noir (and no doubt in other things as well). This 2004 is from the same vineyards as the stellar 2003 with the addition of a new Owen Roe vineyard favorite (Cummins Ridge) and is essentially declassified juice from their $42 bottling. Their goal for that bottling is a limited amount of absolutely the best in the cellar, the rest goes here: same high-quality fruit, same super-low yields, same excellent winemaker. Unsurprisingly, this is much like the 2003, but with better balance and vibrancy (2004 wasn’t nearly as hot). Otherwise still packed with vanilla, dark cherry, toasty creamy graham crackers, and as with all the Owen Roe wines, awesome texture and mouth-feel.  The 2003 sold out in two months; the clock is ticking. 

Sineann Old Vines Zinfandel Columbia Valley 2004
$34.99/$28 by the case.
One of the benchmark reds that put Sineann on the map, this disappears quickly every year but ridiculously so this year due to lower production. One of the very few northwest Zinfandels and arguably the best, the fruit comes from the Pines vineyard which was planted around the turn of the century near The Dalles, Oregon. Always a knockout, the 2004 outshines previous vintages with its elegance, charm and surprising classiness for such an otherwise full-throttle red. Smooth and silky, the high-toned ripe crushed raspberry fruit dominates, followed by glimpses of mocha, dusty bramble, peppery spice, and blackberry all co-mingling on the long finish. Its elegance is frankly disarming; although ultra rich and mouth-filling, it’s superbly balanced by fine acidity and strenuously avoids zinfandel pitfalls such as heavy raisiny pruny fruit or excessively hot alcohol. A winemaking coup to coax out the best and leave the rest. 

More Northwest Favorites
Boedecker Cellars Chardonnay Purity Willamette Valley 2004
$15.99/$12.75 by the case. 
Years ago, Oregon Chardonnay got a bad rap when compared with its California counterpart (the heat-loving California clones wouldn’t ripen enough in Oregon’s cooler climate leading to thinner, more acidic wines); not until the better-ripening Dijon clones came into production were quality-conscious producers able to begin rebuilding its image. This new release should quickly accelerate that process. The “Purity” moniker is no gimmick; with no oak contact and no malolactic fermentation, all you get is pure Chardonnay fruit, clean, vibrant, fresh, and intense. Five months on the lees gives an appealing creaminess and richness that never seems heavy or dull and the bright acidity allows it to pair with a range of foods. A glass of this and you’ll understand why, when done right, Chardonnay reigns supreme. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle Syrah Reserve 2001
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
A blowout deal on a popular northwest varietal, the winery is changing direction with its “Reserve” line and wants to be done with this vintage. Lucky you. Replete with all the bells and whistles of Washington Syrah, this is soft and alluring with dark berry jammy fruit, baking spices, and plenty of vanilla oakiness. Although it had tough competition at its original price, nothing can beat it for $15. Originally $30, now priced to fly. 

Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2004
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
One of the nicest guys in the business and obviously a very talented winemaker to boot, Russ Raney has been consistently producing world-class Oregon pinot noir for longer than most of us can remember. We have been fortunate enough recently to uncork some older vintages and were thrilled by what materialized in the glass. Subtle and restrained when young, his pinot noir blossoms into a supernova of flavors with a few years of age and can keep developing for a decade. Although these comments pertain mainly to his single-vineyard bottlings, the quality factor trickles down, as is evident here. A beguiling combination of floral spice and earthy dark cherry fruit with great vibrancy and a lovely smoothness, this style is one that shows Pinot Noir at its most captivating: harmonious, complex, and subtle. Throw a few in the cellar (gently) and wait for Father Time to work his magic.  

And They’re Off... 

As I write this, I’m simultaneously putting the finishing touches on our upcoming trip to Alsace and Germany’s Mosel river with a group of ten lucky customers. Once there, we’ll visit wineries, taste wine, drink wine, and eat well. We’re obviously excited and look forward to bringing back and sharing new discoveries, both wine and stories.  
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October 2005
Cameron Arley’s Leap Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2003
$25.99/$20.75 by the case.
The much-anticipated 2003 Arley’s has arrived and does not disappoint. We (along with plenty of Cameron fans) have been looking forward to this since early in the year when the last of the ‘02 we had stashed finally dried up. The ‘02 started strong, then took off, ending last year as our best-selling Pinot Noir in that price range. And the 2003? Winemaker John Paul, who although a wild man talks straight when it comes to his wines, had this to say: ‘Oh, the ‘03 Arley’s is gonna be great. There were six barrels of old-vine Abbey Ridge fruit that were just amazing and I put those in the Arley’s.’ He did the same last year (besides those six barrels, the final blend is comprised of younger vines from Abbey Ridge), and the result is much the same. Bright expressive youthfulness tempered by old-vine density and depth. Gorgeous aromatics of high-toned raspberry, sandalwood, and a whiff of that Cameron “funk” lead to pretty pure pinot fruit on the palate. It’s going to be way better in six months, but it is hard to resist now. 

J.L. Chave Côtes du Rhône Mon Coeur 2003
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Jean-Louis Chave is one of the biggest names in the northern Rhône valley. Not only has the winery been passed down from father to son since 1481 (!!), but their Hermitage (both red and white) are routinely the highest-rated and most sought-after wines from that appellation and along with Guigal’s “La-La’s” from Côte Rotie, from the entire northern Rhône valley. As one might expect, this pedigree does not come cheaply. Fortunately however, about ten years ago, the Chave’s introduced this more affordable line; purchased fruit, yes, but same winemaking expertise and same passion. The heat that cooked so much of Europe in 2003 did wonders for northern Rhône Syrah which can be austere and miserly if not fully ripe. This is plenty ripe, offering a lovely balance between old world Syrah depth and intensity (tarry black fruit, peppery spice, structure) and new world decadence (luscious mouth-feel, silky sweet fruit). 

White Burgundy Deals from 2002 
Due to a warehouse relocation, two of our favorite white burgundy producers are on sale. Although simply designated “Bourgogne Blanc”, they go well beyond this basic appellation. Although both are great examples of quality white burgundy, style-wise they could hardly be more different providing a fascinating contrast between two vineyards and winemakers scarcely five miles apart.

Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc 2002
$17.99/$14.40 by the case. 
A classic example of traditional white burgundy with its Chablis-like acidity and stony minerality offset by a rich lees-y biscuity quality. Although dry and focused, it fleshes out as it opens, revealing hints of toffee, freshly-baked bread and green apples. Paul Pernot is a quality-driven small producer in Puligny-Montrachet who sometimes keeps only 20% of his production, selling the remaining 80% (that wasn’t up to his standards) to negociants. His wines are built to age; if you are looking to taste the charms of older white burgundy in a few years without breaking the bank now, look no further. 

Fichet Bourgogne Blanc 2002
$21.99/$17.50 by the case. 
Same varietal, similar passionate quality-driven small producer, five-minute drive, radically different wine. Sexy and alluring, its fleshy fruit veers almost toward tropical with exotic spiced nut notes and a round creamy mouth-filling texture. Excellent acidity and precision, yes, but with a flashiness that the more elegant and restrained Pernot does not exhibit. Fichet’s vineyards are located in the highly desirable commune of Meursault and this is essentially declassified Meursault at a steal of a price.
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November 2005
Turkey Wine
Ridge Vineyards 
Thanksgiving is one meal where Zinfandel really shines, so why not go with one of the best? Ridge is a Zinfandel legend, consistently turning out wines of extraordinary quality and complexity, thanks in part to their deft blending; although they are known as “Zinfandel”, these wines are usually predominantly Zin, then bolstered by a host of other varietals which offer myriad flavors that Zinfandel alone cannot mimic. Now is a great time to get acquainted with this legend; to mark the release of two new labels, Ridge offered special pricing on a few remaining 2002’s. This is the first time any of us (including longtime Ridge fans) have seen Ridge at reduced prices. Limited Availability.
Geyserville Alexander Valley 2002 
$24.99/$20 by the case.
Geyserville is a flagship wine, consistently listed at the top of critics’ (and fans’) lists of their favorite Ridge wines. 2002 is no different. “Another reference point effort from Ridge, [this] boasts a rich, sumptuous bouquet of blackberries, kirsch liqueur, damp earth, and licorice. Full-bodied and powerful, with good acidity as well as surprising elegance, this ruby/purple-colored, heady 2002 can be drunk over the next 7-8 years.” 92 pts, Parker. Regular price $32. 
Ponzo Russian River 2002
$18.99/$15.20 case.
A new label for Ridge and one that shows lots of promise. “[This] offers up scents of loamy earth, pepper, sweet kirsch, plums, raspberries, and cherries. With vibrant acidity as well as copious quantities of heady fruit, it should be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years.” 89 pts, Parker. Regular price $25
Cloudline Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2004
$17.99/$14.35 case.
One of the most elegant and classy Oregon Pinots under $35, the CSI: Portland detectives would discover the able hand of Domaine Drouhin Oregon's winemaker Veronique Drouhin-Boss behind the curtain. A blend from several Willamette Valley vineyards, the Cloudline brand was created by wine importer Dreyfus Ashby, DDO's long-time national distributor. Bright dark cherry and raspberry flavors mingle with spiciness, a touch of toasty oak, vanilla and earthy, briary notes in a seamless, medium-weight style that displays silky tannins and finishes with a long, vibrant finish. A real winner from the promising 2004 vintage, from what we hear, this won’t be around for long.
Domaine Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2004
$15.99/$12.75 case.
This winery was our first visit in Alsace; wow, what a fabulous way to start the trip! We were all captivated by the wines as well as our hosts who were generous beyond belief (especially since harvest was just starting). As our tasting progressed, we all noticed a remarkable consistency in style. All the wines, from the least expensive to the recent 98 point Wine Spectator-rated dessert wine, had stunning purity, finesse, and verve. Biodynamic farming, hand-harvesting, and the use of natural yeasts all contribute to a quality that goes beyond mere winemaking; it is rather a distillation of a piece of Alsace captured in the bottle. This pinot blanc is a great introduction to their style: bright, fresh, and intensely focused, with admirable length and pretty aromatics framing the stony green apple fruit. 
Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2004 
$9.99/$7.99 by the case. (375 ml) 
Another fantastic visit! Our trip happily coincided with the release of his 2004’s (he produces around 60 different bottlings!). Molitor releases relatively late compared to other Mosel producers; the only reason we have this 2004 so early is thanks to our local German hero Ewald Moseler (he begged his friend Markus to ship some over) . This was delicious in Germany and is delicious here; a favorite at our recent Riesling tasting. As “wine #1,” it immediately ensnared tasters with Riesling’s unmistakable charm. Light to medium-bodied with a just-released vigor, it is delicately fruity with zippy citrus notes and a deliciously plush succulence. As we say every year, Riesling is a perfect Thanksgiving wine: versatile, lower alcohol, and a welcome palate-refresher during such a hearty meal. 
(Half-bottles are a great way to start a meal or relax while cooking without having to drink a whole bottle. Plenty of folks like a glass of white to start followed by red with the meal. Think outside the 750ml bottle.)
Marchetti Rosso Conero 2003
$15.99/$12.75 by the case. 
For those who prefer an Italian flare at this most American of holidays comes this 100% Montepulciano from the Marche region, yet another “Small Vineyards” uncovered gem that is sure to take off. Wonderful complexity from a grape more known for its straightforward richness, the layers of flavor include dark berry, bright cranberry, cocoa and baking spices as well as a typical Italian smoky spiciness. 
Mas de Boislauzon Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2003
$17.99/$14.35 by the case.
The much-discussed heat of 2003 helped raise the quality of many wines, but the quality boost in the lower price range is where it is most dramatic; this basic Côtes du Rhône tastes better than some Chateauneuf du Pape. Packed with the best Rhône characteristics, this is polished and “new world” up front, amps up the spicy garrigue roasted herb notes mid-palate, then finishes with lightly gripping tannins. Offering lots of stuffing and depth for the money, fans of Clos du Caillou’s past vintages should check this out.  

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December 2005

Champagne!
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle NV
Retail: $47 GWB: $41.99 Sale: $33.50
Hands down, this is one of the classiest and most delicious Champagnes we've enjoyed in the last year and certainly the most for the price. It offers enormous pleasure as it crackles with intensity; the tiny bubbles so fine and delicate that you’re almost amazed to see that it really is sparkling. 100% estate-grown and vinified by the young and talented Arnaud Margaine, it's a true "Grower Champagne." The creamy, full-bodied texture mates with bright acidity. Those fine bubbles and a focused minerality deliver both elegance and power. Ripe vibrant flavors of lemon, apple blossom, tropical fruit, honey, toast and flowers lead into a long, mouth-watering finish. The favorite at our summer Grower Champagne tasting, you must give this beauty a try.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV
Retail: $48 GWB: $37.99 Sale: $29.99 
What a nice surprise in our blind tasting: this the best Piper we’ve ever tasted (we consequently weren’t surprised when we saw the 91 point review in last month’s Wine Spectator). While quality leapt dramatically in the mid-to-late 1990’s (thanks to a new master blender/winemaker) they seem to be getting even better based on this year’s cuvée. Comprised mostly of Pinot Noir and Meunier (around 85%), this is a robustly flavored and richly aromatic style. Waves of freshly baked bread, roasted honeyed nuts and ripe red apples burst from the glass; dry, yeasty, and mouth-filling on the palate, the complexity of richly textured flavors meld beautifully on the long toasty finish. Fans of luscious Champagne, come on down!

R. Dumont & Fils Brut NV
Retail: $31 GWB: $24.99 Sale: $19.99
The absolute best value in real French Champagne, we couldn’t help but feature this again. Estate grown and produced (like Margaine), this new cuvée seems better than last year’s (and we’re not just saying that). The Dumonts have a bit of experience under their belt; their family has owned vineyards in this region for over two hundred years. Located in the southern region of Champagne where the soil is similar to that of Chablis (chalky clay), Champagne from this region tends to be more elegant and fine than many of its siblings to the north. Dry, focused, and clean with a refreshing brightness and green apple zestiness, the chalky soil adds an intriguing mineral note. With little toast or yeast to mask the purity of fruit, this is an intriguing counterpoint to the more robust Piper-Heidsieck. 

Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut NV
Retail: $20 GWB: $16.99 Sale: $13.50
Another core presence here, this Californian has become the de facto mid-teens sparkler of choice, and why not? Lithe, balanced, and dangerously easy to drink, with vibrant bright white fruit flavors (pear, green apple) and creamy creamy bubbles (emphasis intended). A crowd-pleaser that has a little bit to offer everyone, this little under-$20 sparkler actually made the coveted Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2004. Tasted blind against its peers, it was hard to deny its casual charm and easy-going style, especially when it is priced 5 to 10 bucks lower than many of them. 

Berlène Blanquette de Limoux Brut 2000
Retail: $12 GWB: $9.99 Sale: $7.99
A wonderful sparkler from the Languedoc that bested the competition; this offered a surprising array of flavors and persistence for the money. Although Limoux is a stone’s throw from hearty-red territory (Corbières, Minervois) in southern France, its vineyards are quite a bit higher and consequently cooler, allowing them to produce fresh and vibrant sparkling wine which has been done here since 1531 (the locals claim Blanquette was being made here long before Dom Pérignon arrived in Champagne). Made from the local favored varietal Mauzac (organically farmed to boot), this seems at first quite rich with baked apples and caramel on the nose, then turns clean and balanced in the mouth ending with a dry and slightly chalky finish. Interesting, tasty, and cheap!

This Just In!

Too disparate to sum up, these sought-after gems sell out quickly after their autumn release. From seasoned veterans who know how to coax the best from their vineyards, they have proven track records leading their formidable fan base to buy now and taste later. 

Small production, exceptional quality = sold out. If you’re a Pinot Noir fan, don’t miss out. 

Thomas Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2003 $34.99
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Cuvée J 2003 $34.99
Cameron Clos Electrique (Pinot Noir) 2003 $39.99
Cameron Abbey Ridge Pinot Noir 2003 $39.99
Patricia Green - a range of vineyards, all 2004 $varies

Oregon wine makes a great gift for those who are not fortunate enough to live nearby. Don’t forget, we ship!

More Great Gift Ideas

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2000
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
Who wouldn’t love Brunello as a gift, including yourself? Myriad flavors signal that this is a traditionally styled Brunello: sweet dark cherry and plum, tobacco, leather, smoke, soy and fresh herbal notes A lush mouth-feel with just the right amount of juicy tannin provides a firm underpinning for the waves of flavor that unfold through a persistent finish. The local distributor was able to cut a deal with the small Tuscan family winery to import a large quantity at a great price.

Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002
$29.99/ $23.99 by the case.
This winery in the middle of Napa's prime Rutherford district has been flying under the radar for years, making excellent Cabernets that sell for much less than the big names. This 100% Cabernet displays the classic richness and balance of Rutherford, with kirsch, cassis and plum flavors, hints of toasty oak, cola, chocolate and earth, and a lingering spiciness. Smooth tannins and crisp acidity imbue the wine with a lively energy all the way through the long, flavorful finish. A huge winner for the price.

Belle Pente Pinot Noir Belle Pente Vineyard 2002
$29.99/ $23.99 by the case.
One of the last 2002’s available (they blessedly release late), this is raging good. With very little left, we’re giving one last shout-out for the ‘02 vintage. With enticing aromatics of clove, cinnamon, and wood spice (not oaky), high-toned red fruits (strawberry, red currant), and gently gripping tannins on the finish, this has that beautiful ‘02 balance. Subtle yet sexy, it’s all finesse and charm. Simply put, this is gorgeous Pinot Noir for the money. 

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