Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.

2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011
2006 Jan/Feb	2006 May	July 2006	2006 November
2006 March	2006 June	2006 Aug/Sept	2006 December
2006  April		2006 October

January/February 2006
Zoot Allures Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2004 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
J. Christopher (aka Jay Somers) has been on fire lately. Not literally of course, it’s just that his wines come and go so quickly, it’s hard for customers to keep up. Fortunately however, being gifted in both red and white, he makes enough different bottlings that we usually have something good from him. Such as….. the Zoot Allures 2004 Pinot Noir! Although originally deemed a second label, Zoot Allures is more “different label” than “second label” as second label connotes lower quality which this is not. A fairly robust pinot noir (especially given the price) that offers dark cherry fruit and bass notes of wet earth and cinnamon spice amid an oaky background. Well structured, yes, but balanced, fleshy, and like all his wines, amazingly good for the money. 
Jean Sipp Pinot Gris Réserve Vin d’Alsace 2004 $15.99/$12.99 by the case.
After an almost two-year hiatus, one of our most popular Alsatian pinot gris is back in stock (although as always limited in quantity). Jean Sipp is a small producer located in Ribeauvillé (same village as Trimbach) and consistently turns out lushly flavored and complex wines for more than fair prices. We unfortunately couldn’t meet the family during our autumn Alsace trip (les Sipp were in Belgium eating moules and frites) but we did stop by the tasting room for a fix of one of our long-lost favorites. 2004 is a super vintage for Alsace, a welcome return to normalcy after the excessive heat of 2003, and Sipp’s 2004s are a delight. One whiff and you know this could only be Alsace; the nose is a beautiful combination of floral white peach, baking spices, and a touch of zesty smokiness. Rich and flavorful but definitely dry, the white peach aromatics give way to mineral-tinged pear fruit flavors that continue on the long creamy finish. If you can’t tell, we’re very glad to have this back. 
Finca Luzon Jumilla Altos de Luzon 2004 $17.99/$14.35 by the case.
ARRIVING MID-JANUARY; LIMITED AVAILABILITY
A perfect example of Spain’s rising star for quality, value, and sheer drinking enjoyment. This delicious blend from the Jumilla region (50% Mourvèdre, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo) was number 43 in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 with this review: “ Ripe and luscious. This rich red is bursting with fruit, with flavors of cherry, boysenberry and currant, supported by well-integrated toasty oak, balanced acidity and ripe tannins. Accents of coffee, mineral and briar add allure, and mingle with the fruit on the long finish. 93 points.” This wine’s little sibling was in the December Case of the Month and sold out in just a couple of weeks; we expect the same with this. 
Andrew Rich Coup d’Etat 2003 $21.99/$17.50 by the case
A prolific and talented winemaker, Andrew Rich offers a dazzling array of cool wines to choose from. At his December tasting here in the shop, everything showed well and particularly this, his Rhône style blend. Even better than the 2002, this has much more Mourvèdre (say that three times fast) at almost 50% and consequently is more structured and powerful. Grenache adds breadth, roundness, and bright red fruit, and Syrah bolsters that with an added peppery spice. With fruit coming from Washington’s Ciel du Cheval and Six-Prong Vineyards (Sinister Hand fans take note), the vineyard pedigree is there and it shows. Another example of inspired northwest blending. 
Burle Gigondas 2003 $19.99/$15.99 case
When it comes to old favorites, the wines from Edmond Burle more than qualify, they practically define it. One of our favorite winery visits during our 2002 Rhône trip, this tiny domaine was long a favorite for those who love rustic old-world style reds. With Edmond’s passing last year, his son Damien has taken over, and although the wines are still true to form, they seem slightly less austere with more overt fruit. That said, this is still typical Burle with a woodsy, herbal nose, dark iron-tinged blackberry fruit alternating with tangy strawberry, and chewy tannins on the finish. Not a wine to be rushed, it changes immensely the longer it is open, fleshing out and offering a gustatory roller coaster ride of the Rhône Valley’s many vinous charms. 
F. Magnien Bourgogne Rouge Graviers 2003 $24.99/$19.99 case.
Frédéric Magnien may be young, but he learned how to make fine Burgundies at the side of his father at Domaine Michel Magnien. With access to great vineyard sources and some of the best raw materials in the region, he is producing delicious wines from purchased grapes at his base in Morey-St-Denis that have received raves from critics and wine lovers alike. His Nuits-St.-George Les St. George was a huge hit at a recent shop tasting, and this less expensive 2003 has a similar richness and class, full of lush cherry fruit and spice with a velvety texture and mouth-coating finish. C'est délicieux!

Italian Comfort Wines 

Portland’s love affair with Italian wines is evident in the amazing cornucopia available. These wines seem to speak to us and offer a reliable comfort zone, like hanging out with old friends. These three reds have been very popular these last few months; even with the great selection out there, these have stood out. 

Droandi Ceppeto Chianti Classico 2001 $15.99/$12.75
Chianti is tricky. On one hand it’s so popular (“let’s just get a Chianti”), yet on the other hand the sheer volume produced leads to many ho-hum bottles and easily forgotten producers. Similar to french fries, Chianti can seem ubiquitous yet anonymous, but also like french fries, when you find a good one, it offers more comfort and pleasure than much flashier wines (or potato creations). Based on customer’s recent behavior, the Ceppeto is the “it” french fry these days, with much of what makes Chianti so satisfying and none of what makes it bad. With a highly aromatic nose as introduction, it is rich yet medium-weight, with the dark red fruit punctuated by a perfect hint of earth. Good balance, good intensity, long finish, what more could one ask for? 
Montecalvi IGT 2001 $33.99/$27 case.
Speaking of anonymous Chianti, this Super Tuscan came about to combat that anonymity. 100% Sangiovese from Rodda in Chianti, this could be labeled as Chianti but the husband/wife team that makes it see it as more than just that. Different from many Super Tuscans that strive for oak and fruit-driven power, this is all elegance, class, and finesse. With a super silky mouth-feel and bright cherry fruit, it reminds one almost of Pinot Noir, a very good Pinot Noir. 
Brezza Nebbiolo d’Alba 2003 $17.99/$14.35 case. 
The Brezza family has tended vines in Barolo since 1885, and with 62 acres, only produces wine from their own property. While the Barolos are amazing, this Nebbiolo stuck out as a truly great deal. It displays the same full flavor, elegance and light-on-its-feet style as the more expensive Brezza crus. Aromas of smoky cherry and plum mingle with classic Piedmont hints of anise, rose, tobacco and herbs, and a pleasant earthiness, topped off by a long, clean finish.Alsatian and German Wines from our Fall Europe Trip:
Many of the wonderful wines we tried in September during our shop trip are in or should be arriving shortly. From Alsace, we have a variety of offerings from the brilliant Marcel Deiss, the below-the-radar Domaine Albert Mann, and the previously-mentioned Domaine Weinbach and Jean Sipp. From Germany, there's the ever-popular Fritz Haag, JJ Prum and Dr. Loosen, with top up-and-comers Van Voxelm and Heymann-Lowenstein, as well as the well-cellared older vintages from Christoffel-Prum. More producers and selections should be arriving in the next few months as the wines are released. 
Classic 2001 Vintage German Wines from Von Kesselstadt:
We just discovered many wines from this excellent producer are still available from what many consider Germany's best vintage of the last 20 years. After tasting many of them last week, we selected a handful to bring in for the shelf. They are precise, full of energy and delicious, with just enough bottle age to bring out the finer qualities. Best of all, prices are incredibly reasonable for the pleasure you'll receive.
2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine de Beaurenart and Paul Autard:
Several of our long-awaited wines have finally made it to Portland. The CDP from Domaine de Beaurenard is always a popular buy, due to it's richness and balance. The Domaine's top cuvee, the Boisrenard, scored 94-96 from Robert Parker and is in limited supply. Paul Autard's 2003 Chateauneuf is a stellar follow-up to the 2001 that was probably our biggest seller in the last year-and-a-half.
Old Favorites and a New Face in Oregon Pinot: 
Most of the 2004 Bergstrom wines have sold out, but we managed to stash away a few cases of the superb Cumberland Reserve. It's deep-flavored and balanced for current consumption, but displays a racy backbone that will allow good aging as well

J. Christopher's top vineyard, Le Pavillion, is always one of the best pinots out there once you give it come cellar time. Winemaker Jay Somers always hits the mark and this 2003 bottling should be no exception, with it's dark and earthy Dundee Hills fruit and deep intensity.

Clay Hill is the brand-new second label from Dundee's DePonte Cellars. We sold case after case of the great DePonte 2002 pinot. The 2003 Clay Hill displays similar refinement and full flavor like big brother does, but for about $10 less. The 2003 DePonte has also just arrived in the shop.

Australian Favorites: 
We had an opportunity to taste a dozen of the best wines from Australia last week, from huge Shiraz to explosive Grenache and multi-faceted Rhone blends. Some of the winners are still available: Torbreck, Burge Family, Shirvington, D'Arenberg and more. These showed even better than we had hoped and made clear that the best Australian winemakers can hold their own with anyone out there.

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March 2006

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2003
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
Beautiful balance and layers of complexity are the calling cards of John Abbott’s third vintage at Abeja, showcasing yet again the former Canoe Ridge star’s undeniable winemaking talent. Excessive heat was the issue in 2003 (as in Oregon and much of Europe) but this wine shows little sign of trauma. Yes, it’s rich and flavorful, but with an elegance and subtlety rarely found in wines this powerful. John strives to produce wine that is generous yet balanced, with a silky texture and well-integrated components (tannin, fruit, acid, oak) and has again succeeded. Simply put, everything is in its proper place to create a seamless whole. Your palate will have a grand time chasing the flavors as high-toned red fruits turn to darker plum and cassis while vanilla toast, cinnamon and woodspice ricochet about. With their two previous vintages selling out shortly after release, Abeja is a bit stealth, but the demand has done nothing but grow. If you’re a Cab fan, it’s time to find out why. 
Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004
$27.99 6 bottle limit
For fans of opulent Aussie Shiraz, Two Hands has been worth seeking out for years. Although they produce a daunting array of labels (almost all of which have fanciful names such as “Deer in the Headlights” and “Gnarly Dudes”), the quality is consistent across the board and across vintages. The Angels Share has long been a favorite here and although the price has crept up the last couple of years, there is no denying the quality. Unfortunately, the secret (if it ever was one) is out and recent accolades in the press have greatly reduced availability. Here’s why, from Parker’s recent Australia issue: “... A hedonistic effort. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a fruit-filled wine with a gorgeously complex nose of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, blackberries, and cassis. Medium to full-bodied, with admirable purity, balance, and the tell-tale opulence and voluptuous texture this estate’s wines all seem to possess, it should be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years.” 95 points. 
Borsao Tres Picos Old Vine Garnacha 2004
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
The river of exciting Spanish wines continues to flow unabated. In the high-traffic $8-$15 range they are one of our overall best sellers (along with perennial favorites Côtes du Rhône and Italian reds). The quality-to-price ratio can be phenomenal and the huge variety of regions, blends, and styles offer new avenues of exploration for the jaded palate. Usually a customer favorite emerges from the pack and takes on a life of its own until it’s gone. The ‘03 Tres Picos was one such example, and already so is the 2004. At a recent Saturday tasting it stood way out above the others (all high-scoring favorites in their own right). Hillside vineyards of low-yielding old vines produce a stupendous bargain: Chateauneuf-du-Pape-like in flavor and intensity with cascades of sappy cherry/berry fruit, myriad spice aromatics (cigar box, sandalwood, wild herb/garrigue notes) and wonderful balance. Some wines just have it, and this is one of them. 
Von Kesselstatt Josephshofer Riesling Auslese 1983
$29.99/$23.99 case. 
On a recent visit to Portland from her home in the Mosel, Annegret stopped by the shop to refresh our memories and palates. In addition to revisiting some delicious 2001s, we were in for a special treat: an auslese that has been quietly resting in the bottle for over 20 years. Amazingly still available, we had to bring some in. It brought back memories of some great older bottles we drank in Germany, wines of a certain age that we didn’t expect to see much of back home. From the Josephshofer vineyard which is located in the heart of the middle Mosel, this is incredibly complex. Aged riesling nuances are in harmony with traces of what once was: smoky petroly aromatics give way to flashes of peach, lime peel, and tropical fruits. Lemon juice on baked apples becomes honeyed nuts and back again. Dry (a big surprise to most people since it started its life very sweet) and medium-bodied but expansive on the palate and with a long, if subtle, finish. If you’re at all curious about the pleasures of a well-aged riesling, check this out. 
Clay Hill Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2003
$14.99/$11.99 case.
In our continual quest to find “good” Oregon Pinot Noir under $15, we were delighted to track down this little-known second label. Made by DePonte Cellars in the Dundee Hills, this offers the pinot fan a little bit of everything: pretty cherry pinot aromatics, dark cherry and raspberry fruit, a touch of oak and a round lush mouthfeel (thank you 2003 heat) balanced by bright acidity. Satisfying in so many ways, not least of all its price. 

Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, Two Stars of the Loire Valley 
Grape varieties and terroir vary as the Loire River cuts a 600-mile swath through the heart of France, yet the wines display a common charm. The best ones are made by family-owned domaines who understand that wines are made in the vineyard, not with tricks in the cellar. Invigorating and bright, with pure fruit flavors, beautiful acidity and minerality, with lower oak and alcohol, they are terrific as an apéritif or with a variety of foods. 

The central region of Touraine has the best dry white Chenin Blanc vineyards. Hills of chalky tuffeau limestone soils topped with sandy clay rise above the river, creating sun-filled slopes that allow the grapes to ripen in the harsh northern climate. 

François Chidaine is one of the Loire's best winemakers, with holdings in Montlouis and Vouvray. His wines are intense and refined, a result of organic farming, low yields and minimal intervention. The 2004 Montlouis Les Tuffeaux is a demi-sec (off-dry) wine with a touch of sweetness perfectly balanced by crisp acidity and minerality accompanying layers of fruit flavors from tropical to peach and pear. Another favorite is the 2004 Vouvray Clos Baudoin, made from the estate’s oldest vines. Drier and richer than the Tuffeaux, this is complex and flavorful and offers a more powerful presentation.

Thirty kilometers north are the appellations of Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir, where Eric and Christine Nicolas of Domaine de Bellivière produce Chenin where it should not grow, thanks to hard work and sunny south-facing slopes. From the Coteaux du Loir, they produce the L'Effraie bottling from younger vines and the Vielles Vignes Eparses from 50-80 year-old vines. The 2004s have a balance of focus, power and flavor similar to the superb 2002 vintage, with citrus, apple and honeyed apricot powered by vibrant minerality and acidity. The wines are rich, intense and bold and are superstars in the best Paris bistros, leaving little for export.

Touraine is also home to three of the Loire's four main red wine regions, where geology and weather have made soils rich in gravel, sand, chalk and clay. Just as Cabernet Franc found this to its liking in Bordeaux, it has done the same here, creating perfumed, elegant, fruity and delightful reds that soar when paired with roast meats, hearty cheeses, fish and pasta.

Philippe Alliet is considered by France's Revue de Vin to be one of the top Cabernet Franc producers, and his Chinon-based wines are finally available in Portland. The 2004 Chinon is full of sappy dark cherry and raspberry fruit, earthy notes and floral spice on a rich, vibrant frame with supple tannins. It was a huge hit at our recent Cab Franc tasting. We also will be receiving some of his 2004 Vielles Vignes (old vine), that kicks it up a notch in complexity, flavor and power. 

The Foucault family in Saumur-Champigny at Clos Rougeard produces traditionally-styled Cabernet Franc, with less extraction and density, but with complex layers of flavor that run more to earth, minerality, and spicy smoky cherry and raspberry fruit. The classic 2000 Saumur-Champigny bottling is wonderful to drink now, but will blossom even more with some time in the cellar.

We have limited quantities of some of our favorites available:
François Chidaine 2004 Montlouis Les Tuffeaux $24.99; 2004 Vouvray Clos Baudoin $29.99
Domaine de Bellivière 2004 Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie $23.99;
2004 Coteaux du Loir Vielles Vignes Eparses $29.99
Philippe Alliet 2004 Chinon $20.99 
Clos Rougeard 2000 Saumur-Champigny $33.99

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April 2006

Portlanders are not only lucky to have the Willamette Valley’s vinous bounty on our doorstep, we also are fortunate to have a whole different range of wines, flavors, and styles just a few hours away in the other direction. Each spring a huge array of vintners visit Portland armed with their new releases and this year’s twin tastings (first Walla Walla, then Yakima) show a promising trend. Not only are the wines getting better, there is more diversity in style, more interesting blends, and more realistic price points to chose from. Below is a mini-tasting; a few stand-outs that highlight the incredible variety available so close to home. 

Sheridan Vineyard Kamiakin Yakima Valley 2004
$18.99/$15 by the case.
A prime example of what eastern Washington is probably doing best. Deliciously drinkable reds priced in the $15-$20 range and comprised of an ever-shifting (and consequently interesting) blend of Cab, Cab Franc, Merlot, Syrah, etc. These are the wines people are taking home and drinking, then coming back for more. Kamiakin has been a steady seller here for a couple of years and the new vintage is spot on. A blend of roughly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Syrah, this is declassified wine from Sheridan Vineyard’s terrific $40 L’Orage blend, and it’s not difficult to see (and taste) why it’s so popular. Extremely silky, super smooth and packed with lush high-toned boysenberry/blueberry/cherry fruit with notes of woodspice and vanilla from the oak barrels. A real crowd-pleaser. 
Woodward Canyon Artist Series 
Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2003
$37.99/$30.50 case. 
While bottles in the “Kamiakin” mold hold great promise for the future of Washington (affordability, sheer drinkability), this is a prime example of what originally put Washington State wines on the map: big Cab. One of the early high-quality producers to prove his mettle and gain a loyal following, winemaker Rick Small has been turning out big, structured powerful Cabernet for over twenty years. Both his “Old Vines” bottling and the Artist Series have long represented some of the most sought-after labels in Washington. Tasting through his line-up last month showed that he hasn’t lost his touch, if anything the wines showed better than we remembered. The 2003 Artist Series is stylistically in line with previous vintages but even bigger and richer due to the growing season’s record heat. Structured and intense with dark cherry, cassis, and blackberry fruit, cedary spice notes and a long finish. If you’re a Woody fan, this delivers the goods. 
Glen Fiona Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2001
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
A “let-me-taste-that-again” surprise at the Walla Walla tasting, this was a big step up from the Columbia Valley bottling for just a few dollars more. Glen Fiona only makes Syrah and Rhône-style blends and their stated goal is a finished wine that shows more terroir, complexity, and nuance as opposed to full-throttle fruit. They pulled it off brilliantly here as this tasted more like a northern Rhône Syrah than Walla Walla (especially in comparison to many others at the tasting). Co-fermenting with 10% Viognier (a nod to Côte-Rôtie) brings heightened aromatics and added complexity as well as a balancing elegance to the heady Syrah grape. Aging in neutral oak barrels allows the wine to flesh out without the vanilla toastiness commonly imparted from new barrels. The fruit is dark spicy and well-structured with just enough lushness that reminds you that it is actually Washington. Time in the bottle (we bought the last of this vintage) has worked its magic; this is drinking great right now. 
L’Ecole #41 “Barrel Fermented” Semillon Columbia Valley 2004
$14.99/$11.99 case. 
L’Ecole is another old favorite from the Walla Walla area, and their wines always show well. Semillon is not the first white that comes to mind when thinking of Washington but these guys do a superb job with it (and have been since their first vintage in 1983). Relatively late harvesting ensures that the fruit is fully ripe and flavorful while barrel fermentation until completely dry produces a fuller-bodied white with a satisfying voluptuousness. Aging on the lees adds creaminess to an already inviting texture. Add a mild kick of citrus and some nuttiness from the oak, and you’ve got yourself a delicious wine that is rich enough to stand up to a wide variety of dishes as well as on its own. 
Dominio IV Pinot Noir The Red and the Black Yamhill County 2004
$27.99/$22.40 case.
Although not from Washington, this new local release definitely caught our attention, a tiny production Pinot with an intriguing premise. Neither single vineyard (plenty of those already, some unmerited) nor a blend of “whatever was available”, rather a marriage of two contrasting yet complementing vineyards that offers the best of both worlds. Bella Vida vineyard is the “red” offering bright high-toned strawberry/raspberry fruit and Momtazi vineyard is the “black” with it dark cherry fruit profile, acid structure and slightly wild underbrush spice notes. Not surprisingly, this really works as winemaker Patrick Reuter and vineyard czar Leigh Bartholomew(whose real gig is vineyard manager at Archery Summit) did their homework. Aromatics promise pretty red fruits, bright and lively raspberry, and pinot spice, then the palate amps it up with darker fruit, dense structure and a mild smokiness. This is winemaking in the best possible sense: knowing what each terroir offers, letting it speak, and blending to create a whole better than the sum of its parts.

Newsworthy Reds from Far Away Places 
Pascual Toso Reserve Malbec Mendoza 2004
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
Malbec had not been on the tip of most wine drinkers tongues (both figuratively and literally) until the last couple of years when a host of solid inexpensive bottlings began appearing with regularity. Even then, what was mostly available filled the “good for the money” category. In the last year, however, the quality and variety of Malbec available has skyrocketed (as have our sales). When we first tasted the 2004 our expectations were stuck in the past (this should be “good for the money”) but wow, this new vintage goes well beyond that. Combining flavors of smoky roasted spice notes and tangy sappy cherry, this ultimately is a very polished elegant wine whose complexity and length on the palate are a big step up from its hearty dark fruit-driven lesser siblings. 
Vall Llach Embruix Priorat 2002
$25.99/$20.75 by the case. 
The Priorat region in northeastern Spain (close to Barcelona) is currently quite the star eclipsing the previously better-known regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero in high point-garnering reviews and price. Typically planted with anything BUT Tempranillo (the dominant varietal elsewhere in Spain), a common blend is Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache with Syrah and even Merlot showing up periodically. The wines are almost always powerful, dark and heady(thanks to a lot of old vines), perfect for many palates who crave such richness but who also love the smoky, damp earth, and wild spice notes found in the better Mediterranean reds. This 2002 is a great example and a killer bargain. Regularly $35, but just reduced to make way for the 2003, this has sappy blackcurrant fruit balanced by crushed raspberry aromatics, dark minerally earth notes, and wild herb and woodspice. For current drinking this showed as well as wines twice the price at a large industry tasting last month. 
Domaine de Joliette Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2001
$15.99/$12.75 by the case. 
From a region whose wines are often overshadowed by its better-known neighbor the Languedoc, this bottling would cost another $10 if it were from a more currently hip region. Displaying the beefy richness that defines the region’s reds, it also possesses charm, elegance, and length reminiscent of a slightly aged Bordeaux (although flavor-wise it is more Rhône with its spicy dark berry fruit). Certified bio-dynamic and grown in schist and limestone soils, the not-quite-Rhône, not-quite-Bordeaux terroir shows through beautifully. 
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 May 2006

O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Rolling in our first stack of this last week, Owen Roe’s cheeky delivery guy sang out “It’s baaaaaaaaaaaaaaack!” which is pretty much my feeling exactly. Our always dependable go-to under $15 Oregon Pinot Noir year after year, customers seek it year-round despite its availability window of usually just a few months. Vintage variability aside, this wine consistently possesses such a lovely caressing texture which unsurprisingly makes it a real pleasure to drink. As usual the 2005 is medium-bodied and open-knit, perfect for the coming warmer weather although the dark cherry fruit and mild earthiness hints at what could rise to the surface if given enough time. Always the first release of the vintage, despite its moderate price tag (which incidentally had to rise this year, first time since inception), it certainly changes and gets even better with some bottle age. 
Van Volxem Saar Riesling 2002
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
“What is tradition? Tradition begins today.” So says Roman Niewodniczanski, the irrepressible and very serious man behind this rising star German winery, which was one of our favorite and most enlightening visits on last year’s shop trip. As the sole heir to the Bitburger brewery (think of being the sole heir of the Henry Weinhardt brewery), he has the money to follow his dream; in this case two related dreams. First, producing exceptional dry Riesling that reflects the terroir of its vineyard and concurrently working to create a German designation system that rewards vineyard quality (e.g. Burgundy) over the current system (in place since only 1971) that is based solely on ripeness levels (kabinett, spatlese, etc.) Like all biodynamic winemakers, he believes that wine is made in the vineyard and takes non-intervention very seriously. He hand-harvests all the grapes very ripe (technically Auslese level, beside the point to him), then ferments until dry, never adding yeasts or enzymes. The Saar river valley has one of the longest growing seasons in the world (140-180 days) which allows the grapes plenty of time to soak up the terroir and ripen properly. This bottling is Roman’s ground-floor offering, an amazing wine that highlights his desired goals of minerality, intensity, and balance while being more than affordable. Dry and powerful yet open and fleshly, this has great length and balance and tastes like a much more serious wine than the price suggests. We also stock his single vineyard wines (when available) which are delightful studies in terroir. 
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Cherry trees are blooming, my allergies are choking me, and Cristo Misto has just arrived; ah, springtime. I can’t think of a better way to wake up your tastebuds from their winter slumber than this vibrantly zippy (or zippily vibrant if you prefer) local white favorite. A blend that changes every vintage (mostly Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, with a touch of Riesling) this is once again a flavor firework: grapefruit, Meyer lemon, lime, tangerine, all ricocheting about the mouth until you’re almost drooling (well, not quite that far). Fear not the wake-the-dead acidity, there is plenty of flesh there for balance, even showing a soft peachiness on the second glass. The 2004 sold out in a month; we hope to have this longer than that, but one never knows. Stop by today for your tastebud tune-up. 
Justin “The Orphan” (Cabernet Sauvignon) 2003
$12.99/$10.35 by the case. 
What is the “Orphan” and does it taste like Isosceles (Justin’s primo Cab blend)? I’ll let the winery answer the first question: “On October 12th, 2005 a fire in our warehouse sent a significant amount of our current release wines in flames, leaving many JUSTIN enthusiasts with little or no wine to enjoy. After thoroughly searching our caves for some “forgotten” barrels, we were able to create another unique blend. The 2003 “Orphan” is dedicated to all the retailers, restaurants and consumers who were unable to enjoy this “Orphans” immediate parents.” As for the second question, of course it doesn’t taste as good as Isosceles but it does have a similar profile and costs about a fifth of the price. Ultra-soft and smooth, the dark red raspberry fruit is polished and mouth-filling with cedary leathery spice notes and a long sappy finish. Sexy and luscious, this is a definite drink-me-now red yet still has that unmistakable Justin stamp. 
Cummins Ridge Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002
$9.99/$7.99 by the case.
Yes, this wine was in the case of the month just a few short months ago, and no, we are not in the habit of repeating wines in the newsletter (first time ever, I believe) but this bears repeating: A $10 Oregon Pinot Noir from a great vintage (2002) that is not only good for the money, it’s just good! We had our doubts when we first brought it in but it has been flying out of here and with Oregon Pinot Noir prices creeping back up (heck, even the O’Reilly’s finally went up in price a couple of bucks), this may be the last deal we see like this for a long time. If you missed it the first time around, here’s the scoop: The two partners of Starr winery went their separate ways; when they sorted everything out, they needed to sell off the remaining wine ASAP. Drastically reduced in price and fitted with a quick made-up label, this was re-birthed as Cummins Ridge. Showing the prettiness and elegance of so many 2002s, this has toasty spice mingling with sweet cherry and raspberry fruit, all well integrated into a lovely medium bodied mouth-caressing package. Tasting better and better the longer it is open, the obvious slowly dawned on us: wow, what a deal. Absolutely worth checking out.

Sketches of Spain 
Muga Reserva Seleccion Especial Rioja 2001
$39.99/$31.99 by the case. 
With a name like Muga, a vintage like 2001, and the designation “Seleccion Especial”, you can’t go wrong. Muga is one of the most highly-regarded wineries in Rioja consistently turning out wines of quality and character that hew to tradition but offer plenty of complexity, flavor, and richness for the modern palate. 2001 was a justifiably hyped vintage and their “regular” reserva sold out in less than a month. The “Seleccion Especial” is just that, a special wine that spends 36 months total in wood followed by 12 months in bottle which produces extraordinary complexity and subtlety. This is no fruit-bomb; although there’s power and intensity, it drinks like a fine red Burgundy, medium-bodied with impeccable balance and a glorious finish. Approaching a rare trifecta in Murray’s simple yet rigorous rating system, this “9, double-dot, $” translates as “amazingly good, beats the competition, and is darn cheap for what you get”. Only twenty cases for Portland, get on the get soon. 
Muga Rioja Rosado 2005
$11.99/$9.50 by the case. 
The lighter side of Muga deserves accolades as well, since they clearly know how to make fine wine whether it be Gran Reserva or a simple rosado like this. A summer favorite that comes and goes quickly, the 2005 just arrived and is sure to follow suit. Everything you could want from a rosé and more with its zesty refreshing crispness balanced by a surprising richness and texture (about 20% of the final wine undergoes malolactic fermentation which adds this rounder fuller mouth-feel). Overall quite dry with light strawberry and cherry fruit, this multi-talented charmer works for a picnic at the park, as an apéritif, or can stand up to most casual springtime meals. 
Venta Mazzaron 2003
$13.99/$11.20 by the case. 
This Tempranillo is Spain at its most exciting where high quality and low cost intersect and where the values keep us coming back for more. “[This] terrific top-notch value offers a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of blackberries, cherries, smoke, licorice, and earth. Medium-bodied and elegant, with wonderful sweetness, plush tannin, and a long, pure finish, it will drink well for 2-3 years.” 90 points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
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June 2006

Oregon Spring Release Madness: 56 producers, 283 wines, 10 days.
A dream to some but more painful than you might imagine (more bread and cheese, anyone?). Putting into action our belief “taste before we buy” makes some weeks harder than others. The period around Memorial Day weekend sees a flurry of new releases — best way to sort through it all? Hit the road, taste the wines, talk to the winemakers. Bottom line: the 2004 pinot noirs are consistently elegant, well-balanced and downright delicious. 

St. Innocent Pinot Noir White Rose Vineyard 2004
$39.99/$31.99 by the case.
The 2003 was one of our favorites of the vintage: voluptuous and velvety but still beautifully balanced. The 2004 is more classic White Rose with its signature floral and mineral aromatics, silky texture and pretty black raspberry fruit. Intense pure and sexy, the ample fruit is wonderfully balanced by a backbone of lively acidity. One of the Willamette Valley’s most interesting vineyards, this high elevation site is nestled among Domaine Drouhin and Domaine Serene at the top of Dundee’s Red Hills. With 25-year old vines that are organically farmed, 2004 saw a meager output of only 1.8 tons per acre producing highly concentrated wines but only 267 cases. 
St. Innocent Justice Vineyard 2004
$29.99/$23.99 by the case. 
A new vineyard that clearly shows terroir can trump winemaker. A high-density vineyard located on Bethel Height’s property, this showed enough promise to tempt winemaker Mark Vlossak despite having relatively young vines. Markedly different from White Rose, the dark sappy fruit hangs on a thickly textured frame with wild herb and exotic spice notes. Red cassis and oaky aromatics swirl about before heading into a long smooth finish. A big plush Pinot that is hard not to like. Alas, yields here were as pitiful as White Rose: 1.7 tons per acre to produce only 148 cases. 
Beaux Frères Belles Soeurs Willamette Valley 2004
$44.99/$35.99 by the case.
The prettiest silkiest Belles Soeurs in recent memory, this blend of five vineyards (including Beaux Frères) boasts an underlying intensity, complexity and a long, smooth finish. Waves of dark red fruits (cherry, raspberry, plum and cranberry) interweave nicely with floral spice, sweet herbal notes, earthiness and mellow toasty oak, all balanced by smooth tannins and bright acidity. It sings Oregon yet wouldn’t feel out of place in Burgundy. Considering that there is no Beaux Frères Vineyard to sell due to tiny allocations, this is a worthy consolation prize. 
Andrew Rich Pinot Noir Cuvée B 2004
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
We’re such fans of Andrew’s wines and they sell well with such little prodding that we forget sometimes to write them up. This however needs its praises sung as it is gorgeous Oregon Pinot (especially for the price) and will sell out quickly. The flashiest and lushest Cuvée B in years, this is smoky and toasty with dark cherry/berry fruit and a mouth-filling intensity. A powerful wine that is still balanced and accessible, this has crowd-pleaser written all over it. Cuvée B is simply declassified wine from Andrew’s higher-priced offerings; 2004 being a good vintage, the separate Pinot Noir bottlings are stylistically quite different but delicious across the board. 
Rock Horse Ranch Merlot Columbia Valley 2004
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Okay, enough of the Pinot Noir, how about some Merlot? Oregon Merlot? Yes; this Merlot is good enough to make you forget all about the Sideways sniping. Made by Natalie’s Estate in Newberg (Rock Horse is just a second label) with un-oaked fruit from the Pines vineyard near The Dalles, this has character and complexity and goes well beyond what one would expect from a $15 Merlot. Medium-bodied red fruits with good length and depth, there is richness and flavor but overall it remains somewhat restrained and downright classy. A relatively new winery, Natalie’s Estate in general is making some wonderfully elegant wines from high quality vineyards in the Gorge and beyond that are definitely worth checking out. 

And Don’t Forget the White 
Although Pinot Gris is Oregon’s white wine darling, there is an increasing variety of delicious alternatives from a-bit-of-everything field blends to gasp! plain old Chardonnay. Here’s a few that stood out at Memorial Day tastings. 

Brooks Amycas Willamette Valley 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
A very “Oregon” blend, this is the combined product of five “all-star” winemakers and five different varietals. Made in the Alsatian field blend tradition, this drinks somewhat like a pinot blanc (green apple notes, minerally finish) with Muscat and Gewurztraminer adding gorgeous floral aromatics, Riesling adding lively acidity and Pinot Gris adding lush apricot/peach notes. A refreshing wine to drink happily without too much thought but offers plenty of interest if the mood suddenly strikes. 
Patricia Green Sauvignon Blanc 2005
$17.99/$14.35 by the case. 
There are only about 40 acres of Sauvignon Blanc planted in all of Oregon (yes, that’s why you rarely see it) and only a handful of producers. These guys are one of the best and previously the wine always sold out in a matter of weeks. However, happily in 2005 they sourced more fruit and claim that supply shouldn’t be an issue (for now anyway). A voluptuous spin on the usual style, this has a plush medium-bodied tropical fruit fleshiness that is a delicious foil to the lively citrus acidity. Not Californian, not really French or New Zealand, it’s….Oregon. 
Francis-Tannahill Gewurztraminer Dragonfly Vineyard 2004
$29.99/$23.99 by the case. 
Arguably the best Gewurz made in the Northwest, this has all the desired beautiful aromatics of rose, lychee, and floral spice that are so vibrant and intense you can’t wait to taste it, which is no letdown: the flavors dance on the palate with remarkable purity and balance. Powerful rich and dry, this is a stunning wine. Made from over-30-year-old vines on the Washington side of the Gorge where the steep, south-facing slopes mimic Alsace and Germany. Very limited, with less than 140 cases produced. 
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 July 2006

Mixed Grill – Something for Everyone

Cameron Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2005 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
As the dust settles after many of Oregon’s 2004 Pinot Noirs have been released, one thing is clear. After two vintages of very low yields and the rising popularity of Oregon Pinot Noir nationwide, prices have gone up and availability down, leaving many fans scrambling to secure good affordable wine. John Paul of Cameron, ever the people’s champion, is doing his bit to help. With fruit sourced from the Columbia Gorge, this offering is similar to his always popular non-vintage bottling: light, fresh, and quaffable with tangy cherry fruit and vibrant acidity. Like a simple Bourgogne rouge, this is not meant to equal the more robust pinot noir in the over $25 range, but rather a wine that tastes like pinot noir that can wash down weekday fare from grilled salmon to pesto pasta without breaking the bank. In this heat, chill it slightly, open it and let it breathe while cooking, then sit back and relax. (Note: due to a last minute label approval snafu, this is coming very soon, but call ahead to make sure it has arrived. Thanks.)
Tenuta Ponte Greco di Tufo 2004 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
The first of two new Small Vineyards direct import arrivals, this is one of the more interesting whites we’ve tasted in a while. An ancient varietal that is considered by many to be a jewel among southern Italy’s whites, Greco di Tufo gets its name from the Greeks who introduced it to the village of Tufo in Campania. Unique to this region (and consequently relatively unknown) a good Greco di Tufo offers a wide range of competing flavors making it a lot of fun to drink. Like turning a prism to view the color spectrum, each sip offers a slightly different view of the same wine. Floral spice turns to minerality which leads to a slight smokiness, with vibrant acidity balancing the fleshy fruit. The long finish begins with a white Burgundy toastiness followed by nutty almond notes before zipping back to minerality. 
Perazzeta Sara Toscana Rosso 2005 $11.99/$9.60 by the case. 
For a delicious Tuscan red to drink now while your Brunellos are quietly aging (See page 2), look no further than this 100% Sangiovese from just south of Montalcino. The little sister to another recent Small Vineyards hit, the Perezzeta Rita, this “everyday” wine boasts a load of complexity (especially given the price) but is made in an easy juicy gluggable style. Fragrant with violets, crushed boysenberry and wild herb notes, the smoky cherry fruit is hearty and full-flavored, but still remains polished and smooth throughout. Sangiovese’s trademark acidity gives just enough lift to cleanse the palate making this something you can drink all night. 
Burgans Albarino Rias-Baixas 2005 $10.99/$8.75 by the case.
A second-label wine from one of the region’s top producers (Martin Codax), this offers everything you love about Albarino at a blessedly reduced price. Hailing from Rias-Baixas, the chunk of Spain that sits just north of Portugal, Albarino’s existence is linked with the Atlantic Ocean; produced almost exclusively in this small coastal region, it is a perfect accompaniment to the fish hauled in by local Galician fishermen, even offering a salty tang in many versions. The Burgans has this and other characteristics typical of the varietal: crisp and vibrant white fruit flavors, a mild peachiness balanced by an intriguing minerality, with an appealing fleshy texture. I can’t think of many reasons not to buy this wine. 

Rosé Heaven 
Portland wine drinkers have embraced dry pink wine with a curious mix of worldly cultural awareness and a down-to-earth matter-of-factness. Out-of-towners marvel at our selection reminding us once again that we are lucky for such variety. As with all wine, rosé favorites are a matter of preference but out of the many that we carry these three offer something unique and are of course, delicious. 
Mesoneros de Castilla Rosado 2005 $9.99/$7.99 case.
Somewhat of a rarity according to the importer, this 100% Tempranillo comes from Spain’s Ribera Del Duero region where they apparently would prefer to make pricier beefy red wines rather than casual warm weather sippers. Produced by Ismael Arroyo, one of the region’s stars (and maker of the massive ValSotillo), this has spicy cherry fruit typical of Tempranillo and a medium-bodied smoothly round mouth-feel. 
Rauffault Chinon Rosé 2005 $12.99/$10.35 case. 
While many available French rosés are from the Mediterranean rim this winner comes from the Loire Valley and is comprised of 100% Cabernet Franc. Like a great bar drink, this sings with citrus strawberry fruit and pleasant mineral herbal notes. With great intensity and a persistent finish, this is perfectly located (for me anyway) between too much fruit and not enough.
Gaussen Bandol Rosé 2005 $15.99
And now for the traditional southern French Provencal sipping while the sun glares off the Mediterranean and you can almost taste the wild herbs baking in the heat. A blend of equal parts Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault, this is classic Bandol rosé. Although relatively light in color, this has a mineral backbone and a dark bass note intensity hidden beneath the lively pretty berry fruit. Delicious on its own, it also can stand up to a range of foods from grilled fish, appetizer plates, or what the heck, a grilled burger if the mood strikes you. 

* * * * * * * * * * * * 
2001 Brunello di Montalcino 
Although these are hardly summer patio wines, we are happy to announce the long-anticipated arrival of a few of our favorite Brunello producers. 2001 Tuscan reds in general have received rave reviews for their overall balance and accessibility. Early reports from Montalcino suggest a near-perfect combination of ripe precocious fruit (similar to 1997) and a balanced focused intensity (similar to 1999). These are beautiful agers; forget about the heat for a moment and throw a few of these in the cellar for down the road. You’ll be glad you did. 

The following wines are among the top producers; limited availability. 

Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso 2001 $59.99 
Universally agreed to be one of the best producers vintage after vintage, Ciacci offers a striking balance of power, depth, and dark mineral intensity combined with an elegance that makes it clear that this is not your everyday pizza red. Modern in its generous fruit profile, it still has grip and an old-world tenacity lurking beneath the layers of fruit. The Wine Spectator puts its nicely: “This is gorgeous with seductive cedar, tobacco, berry and Indian spices on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a tobacco, coffee and berry aftertaste. Refined.” 92 points. 
Livio Sassetti Pertimali 2001 $63.99 
Livio Sassetti set up shop in Montalcino in the early 1970’s buying land in the famous Montosoli vineyard and has been impressing Brunello drinkers ever since. Now aided by his two sons, their goal is to produce elegant, subtle yet complex wines that are long-lived and beg to be savored slowly over a fine meal. Almost reminiscent of a fine red Burgundy yet clearly Tuscan and Sangiovese, the 2001 offers notes of flowers on the forest floor, dried cherry, leather, tar and mushroom in an intense yet slightly tight package. Clearly an amazing wine in the “Old World” mode, with time it will reveal even more complexity and nuance; although not fruit-driven there is plenty of underlying power and richness, and Sassetti has proven that good things come to those who can wait. (Also 92 points in the Wine Spectator.)
Uccelliera 2001 $59.99 
Although this is a relative newcomer in Montalcino (the Cortonesi family bought the property in 1986), their wines have quickly become popular with consumers and reviewers alike. More modern and fruit-driven than Pertimali and without the brooding sanguine character of Ciacci, the 2001 is easy to like: big and rich with a smooth supple texture, this has tremendous crossover appeal for New World wine drinkers. “'Aromas of blackberry, spice and dried mushroom follow through to a full-bodied palate, with big velvety tannins and a long finish. This is powerful and layered. Big, juicy wine. Best ever from here.” 93 points, Wine Spectator.  
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August/September 2006

Late Summer and the Livin’ is Easy
With vacation dreams of warm sandy beaches and cool breezes blowing through the pines, our thoughts turn to selecting wines that are slam-dunk good and easy to choose. Luckily new vintages of some perennial favorites have just arrived and offer plenty to get excited about without having to think too hard. Such as:

Owen Roe Abbot’s Table 2005 $19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
What can one say about this, our best-selling wine five years running? How to convey the delight evident on shopper’s faces when they see it again, like greeting an old friend? If you know this wine (and scores of you do), this sounds familiar, and if you don’t know this wine, you should. 
A Northwest blend of several varietals, its popularity is due to its overall richness, pillow-soft mouthfeel, exuberant juiciness, and unique style. On one hand there are a gazillion blends out there, on the other hand nothing quite approximates the Abbot’s Table flavor profile, even though it itself changes every vintage. Very mysterious yes, and part of its hypnotic allure. The 2005 is again Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated at 34% (but less than last year’s 44%) followed by 17% Merlot, 15% Zinfandel, 9% Cabernet Franc, only 7% Syrah (normally there is more), and then less than 7% Blaufrankish, Sangiovese, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Malbec. This smorgasbord gives amazing complexity (berry, plum, cherry baking spices, bramble, and more) yet retains its trademark lusciousness. 

Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition 2005 $15.99/$12.75 by the case. 
A consistent top seller for us since the stunning 2002, Pinon’s unmanipulated wines reflect the vintage more than most. 2002 had impeccable balance, 2003 was weightier and fruitier, 2004 was drier and more restrained, and 2005? Imagine the 2002 with maybe a touch more succulent fruit. According to many growers, the 2005 Loire vintage overall equals if not surpasses the much-acclaimed 2002. Close to being organically certified, Pinon strives for “typicity in appellation and vintage” and practically allows the wines to make themselves, eschewing chemical pesticides, fertilizers, and cultured yeasts. This commitment to quality takes more time in the vineyard and cellar but it allows the wine to capture the essence of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. Even better, there is no hefty price tag. Generous with its ripe fruit profile yet balanced by a crisp citrus acidity, there are myriad flavor avenues to explore: ginger butterscotch aromatics, a lingering floral spice, crisp minerality, followed by a long succulent finish. Thank you, François Pinon. 

El Chaparral Old Vine Grenache 2005 $12.99/$10.35 by the case.
One of our best-selling Spanish wines for the past couple of years, the 2005 is once again something to be proud of. With classic Grenache flavors of strawberry, cherry and floral tobacco herb notes, this is sappy and smooth but has enough structure and grip to hold it all together. Medium-bodied, spicy and mouthwateringly tangy (kinda like BBQ sauce), this has plenty of complexity to keep the taste buds hopping but overall goes down easy and smooth. BBQ, beach trips, the occasional midnight snack, we’re glad to have this back for late summer dining. 

Mark West Pinot Noir California 2005 $11.99/$9.50 by the case.
The 2004 was one of those screaming pinot noir deals that seemed to come and go in a flash but it was around long enough to get plenty of people hooked. Until that is, they did something very strange; midway through the vintage, they switched what was in the bottle from delicious California Pinot Noir to a rather un-delicious Corsican Pinot Noir. The only difference on the label was a tiny, scarcely visible “vin de Corse” designation. Bad idea, but we forgive them because the 2005 is in and it’s back in form. Lush, forward, and juicy with plenty of toasty oak, spice and ripe cherry fruit. 

Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma 2002 $11.99/$9.60 case.
An end-of-fiscal year temporary markdown that forces me to use a phrase I try to avoid: “a no-brainer”. Artesa is in the Carneros district which straddles Napa and Sonoma and often produces wines which stress elegance and finesse over power and fruitiness. This Cabernet is in that style: supple, medium-weight, and very nicely balanced. Dark deep cassis and plum flavors are joined by a oaky spiciness that play about through the long smooth finish. Clearly a wine that belongs in a higher price bracket, this is regularly priced at over $20. On sale here until it’s gone. 

Fevre Chablis 2004 $24.99/$19.99 case. 
The increase in quality at this Domaine over the last several years has been remarkable, vaulting Fevre into the top tier of producers. With a great range of vineyard holdings and old vines, they are producing classic Chablis: wines with precision, minerality and a concentrated intensity. Even this, their village level offering, combines a taut citrus/mineral structure with a smooth round fleshiness. Vibrant, lively, and delicious, this is a wonderful initiation to the real Chablis. 

Importer Neal Rosenthal 

25 years strong, New York City-based importer Neal Rosenthal has a reputation for total commitment to small artisan wineries who are dedicated to producing limited quantities of the finest quality wines and who, as his mission statement explains, “share [our] passion for "terroir", that ephemeral "sense of place". 

Prominently featured in Mondovino, last year’s documentary that drew a clear distinction between people who make wine using traditional methods and people who manipulate their product to please the marketplace, he gives a passionate argument for wines that reflect their heritage, whose distinct flavors do not attempt to mimic currently-popular wines from other regions. 

Well known for his outstanding Loire Valley, Burgundy, and Rhône offerings, at a recent tasting I got to explore a different side of his portfolio. Here are a few under-the-radar gems from an already under-the-radar line-up. 

Charles Koehly Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru 2001 $34.99/$27.99 case. 
Koehly is a recent addition to the portfolio and if all his wines are this good, pluck another feather for Rosenthal’s cap. Altenberg de Bergheim is a top “Alsace Grand Cru” vineyard. With steep slopes, a southern exposure, good altitude and fossil-rich limestone soil, it produces wines of complexity and power. 2001 was a great vintage in Alsace and this is just hitting its stride. Reminiscent of another Bergheim favorite, Marcel Deiss, this is rich, layered, and seamless with a long finish echoing the mineral, floral, and white fruit flavors. 

Domaine du Jaugaret St. Julien 2002 $69.99/$55.99 case. 
This small domaine has been in the family since 1654 and the wine itself seems to exude longevity. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (about 80%), the rest is Malbec and Petit Verdot, two old-fashioned varietals that are seen less and less in Bordeaux. Average vine age is 50 years with some of the Malbec being well over 100. These old vines and unfertile gravelly soil gives naturally low yields which leads to great concentration. Intense and focused, the dark cassis fruit is rich and aromatic but it’s clear there is way more lurking beneath the surface. This is beautiful old-style powerful Bordeaux built to age. 

DeForville Barbera d’Alba 2004 $16.99/$13.50 case.
Although Rosenthal is probably better known for his amazing French portfolio, the first wines he imported were Italian and he still has an impressive range from Italy’s more remote corners as well as mainstay regions such as Piedmont. Traditionally vinified and aged in large neutral oak barrels, this Barbera offers “the complex aromas of fruit, earth and flowers” so prized by Piedmont wine lovers. This could age nicely for a few years but 2004 being a great vintage, it’s drinking great right already.

Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines 2003  Pre-release Offering
Their smallest production and most sought-after bottling from vineyards planted in the early 1970’s. This always sells out quickly.  $58/$52 by the case.
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October 2006

St. Innocent Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2004
Anden Vineyard and Seven Springs Vineyard
$35.99/$28.75 by the case.
A benchmark for quality, these wines have proven over the years to be nuggets of complexity, character, and longevity. It's pinot of a certain style: power, depth, and nuance. They age incredibly well and when young offer up a heady blend of overlapping layers of concentrated fruit, tannin and acid. Extremely low yields and minimal handling leads to a finished product packed tight with pure pinot noir intensity. The first night we opened them, they were really good, the second night, they were awesome. Decant for an hour and watch them soar. 
    Anden and Seven Springs were once part of the same vineyard until a forced split before the 2001 vintage. What St. Innocent once bottled as "Seven Springs" now presents a fascinating character study in these two bottlings. 
    What is now labeled Seven Springs is the younger, higher block and is (relative to Anden) elegant, medium-bodied and even a touch delicate at this point with a creamy smooth mouth-feel and bright high-toned cherry fruit. Flashes of toasty oak caress the palate, although the oak integrates after aeration revealing deeper layers of fruit. 
    Anden Vineyard is the lower older block and it shows. Darker, deeper, and more powerful and loaded with tangy black cherry, tarry black earth and spice notes. Vintage after vintage, this is clearly one of the best, longest-lived pinot noir, especially for the money. 

Panther Creek Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 2001 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
While waiting for the above-mentioned St. Innocent to age (or aerate in a decanter) pull the cork on this screaming deal. This 2001 is developed and ready to drink, and thanks to a distributor change, a smoking deal (original price was close to $40). Tasting through the 2001 line-up of single vineyards which were all deals in their own right, the Shea stood out for its subtle complexity, variety of red and black fruit flavors, and overall richness and balance. Vintage 2001 seemed at the time lighter and tighter than previous fruitier vintages, but as a summertime 2001 retrospective tasting proved, many of these are drinking great right now, with Burgundian nuance and elegance replacing the typically dominant fruit. Well-aged Pinot Noir for $20? Stock up! Come taste a range of single-vineyard 2001 pinot noir from Panther Creek Saturday October 21st, 2-5 pm. It’s free!

Owen Roe Northern/Southern Rhône Tag Team 2005
Ex Umbris and Sinister Hand $23.99/$19 by the case.
With a slight chill in the air and leaves changing colors, we begin anticipating many exciting autumn releases, none more exciting for many customers than these two. As with Abbot’s Table, a frenzy is whipped up until they sell out. 
    Ex Umbris is all Syrah, full of smoky black fruits and peppery spice layered in waves of velvety liquid goodness. Sinister Hand (you should ask what the name comes from; an excellent story but too long to explain here) is David’s homage à Chateauneuf du Pape done in a decidedly voluptuous new world style. This Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blend is mouth-filling and voluminous with toasty oak, cherry and strawberry fruit, and a bass note earthy spiciness that keeps on pumping. 
    Both are decadently delicious and both will be gone before long. 

Rock Horse Ranch Stable 39 2004 $16.50/$13.20 by the case. 
Natalie's Estate has quickly established itself as a producer of serious NW wines that offer balance, varietal nuance and possibly most refreshing, value. From his base in Newberg, Boyd Teegarden works with a variety of vineyards in eastern Washington/the Gorge and his goal is to produce wines that reflects this variety: site specificity and true varietal character. This dedication to terroir comes at a price, however; barrels that don't make the cut need a new home. Lucky for us, that new home is in his second label Rock Horse Ranch. Clearly under-priced for northwest wine of this quality, Boyd wants to make friends while maintaining the integrity of his single-vineyard releases. Stable 39 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot from three top-notch vineyards: Rosa Mystica, Hillside, and the Pines. Medium to full-bodied, this deftly weaves a line between a velvety smooth texture and enough structure to give it lift, punch and verve. Black currants play off the ripe red cherry fruit and the purity shows through, unmarred by oak. Classy and balanced, we’ll take his cast-offs any day. 

J. Albin Pinot Gris 2005 $14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
A new favorite in the Pinot Gris section, this perfectly walks the line between the dry light grapefruit style and the full sweet ripe fruit version. It has weight, a rich texture and loads of flavor without any sweetness. Focused and pure with hints of light smoke and mineral that add complexity to the otherwise clean fresh fruit flavors. 

Jean Pierre Gaussen Bandol 1999 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
When it comes to serious age-worthy French wine, Bandol rouge is a sleeper and Bandol rouge from Gaussen is a total sleeper. Not as sexy or overexposed as some other southern French darlings (e.g. Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas), the Mourvèdre-dominant reds can be slow to show their stuff, but once they do, wow. Meant to age (it says longue garde right on the label), these Provençal reds can become almost Bordeaux-like, the gradual stripping away of tannin revealing a bounty of complexity beneath: dried fruits, herbs, leather, mineral, pencil lead, and earthy spice. The 1999 is downright pretty and elegant right now and priced to move to make way for the 2000 vintage. Normally $27, $20 is a give-away for wine this good. 

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November 2006

Abacela Tempranillo Umpqua Cuvée 2003 
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Southern Oregon’s Abacela Vineyards adds a charming dose of irreverence in this otherwise Pinot Noir-drenched state. We love our homegrown Pinot Noir as much as anybody (probably more) but seeing that variety is the spice of life, we’ve always been thrilled to have some offbeat wines from Oregon that are not only different and interesting but truly delicious in their own right. The quest to produce a world-class American Tempranillo (the prized varietal of Spain) is what brought Abacela to life. After deciding that Oregon’s Umpqua Valley was the best climate for their favorite varietal, Earl and Hilda Jones planted the northwest’s first Tempranillo vineyard in 1995. Ten years later, it sure has proven an excellent choice. Example: this 2003. Rich spicy and opulent, this delivers loads of flavor for the money. Like a holiday plum pudding, this is full of dark fruit flavors, raisin and spice and the mouth-feel is soft and alluring, especially for such a big wine. Like Zinfandel, this packs enough punch to handle the cornucopia heaped upon the Thanksgiving table. 

Zind-Humbrecht ZIND 2004 
$29.99/$23.99 case.
One of the best producers in Alsace (considered the best by many), Zind-Humbrecht needs little introduction, but this bottling certainly does. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Auxerrois is hardly typical of the region but darn, is it good! 2004 was a superb vintage for Zind-Humbrecht (oh wait, almost every vintage is superb for them) and this non-traditional vin de table shows that they take quality seriously across the board. Fermented together for almost 12 months in an ancient large oak cask, the mouth-feel is creamy and palate-caressing from all the lees contact. Balanced, juicy and downright tasty, it shows the charm of Chardonnay flavors (apply almond cream) without any oaky buttery heaviness, opting instead to show off Alsace’s famous minerality. Versatile in the extreme, this will keep Chardonnay drinkers happy, offer plenty of complexity and varietal guessing games for the wine geek, and pair well with an array of dishes. 

Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes 
2001 $19.99/$15.99 case.
A hearty yet classy Rhône red can be such a delight for Thanksgiving but what’s one to do when Chateauneuf du Pape prices are mimicking Portland real estate? Get a hold of this before it’s gone and you’re set. Vacqueyras (and its immediate neighbor Gigondas) typically offer hearty heady grenache-based reds that are packed with dark fruit and wild herbs yet rarely achieve the elegance of their other neighbor Chateauneuf du Pape. This old-vine bottling, however, is a bird of a different feather. From the formidable 2001 vintage, this is drinking great right now: the brawn has mellowed yet the wonderful sun-baked flavors remain. Smooth and elegantly polished with strawberries, blackberries and wild herbs mingling about the balanced yet richly textured mouth-feel. A real charmer from a small producer, unfortunately there’s not much left. 

Von Hovel Riesling Spatlese 2005 
$13.99/$11.20 by the case. 
As we say every year, Riesling is a perfect Thanksgiving wine: versatile, lower in alcohol, and a welcome palate-refresher during such a hearty meal. 2005 is reputed to be a stunner of a vintage and with a wine at this price tasting this good, it sure offers plenty of promise. Like a flavor firecracker exploding in your mouth, the list of adjectives seem inexhaustible: round smooth and creamy with flavors of lemon curd, hard lemon-lime candy, tangy peach, and pie crust; with whiffs of white pepper, baking spices and minerals, this is plush and powerful but finishes dry and clean. Where else can you get all that for only $14?

Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2003 
$25.99/$20.75 by the case. 
We didn’t set out to pick unusual wines for Turkey suggestions but it sure is starting to look like it: first we offer Tempranillo from Oregon, then Chardonnay from Alsace, and now Pinot Noir from some of the most famous Chardonnay vineyards on the planet. Pure coincidence, I swear. Anyway, Bernard Moreau does make fantastic white Burgundy in Chassagne but also makes this rare treat, pinot noir from 50+ year-old vines whose price is competitive with Oregon. 2003 was a warm vintage which gives this traditional red Burgundy an added fleshy plumpness to balance the classic elegant structure. Intense black cherry fruit and smoky earth notes dominate while pretty red rose aromatics and lively woodsy spice dance about. Clearly Burgundy but with an appealing new-world succulence that is hard to resist. 

Fattoria Capannacce Rosso della Maremma 2003 
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.

A favorite from last month’s Small Vineyards 15 wine blowout tasting, this is for those looking to do a Thanksgiving Italiano. We featured the 2001 a couple of years ago and it was a major hit. The 2003 was a bit tight and restrained upon release leading many to declare it “not as good as the 2001”. It has finally woken from its slumber and more than one taster proclaimed it “better than the 2001”. Go figure. The Maremma is the “happening” region of Tuscany where many modern-styled Super Tuscans are being produced. This blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Grenache and Canaiolo tastes Italian yet offers a lushly-textured fruit basket full of bright cherry, sweet red raspberry, and dark red cassis. Add the peppery spice and a creamy oakiness, and its easy to see the catnip metaphor. 
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December 2006

Champagne! Champagne! Champagne!
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne NV 
Retail: $45 December price: $39.99 Sale: $31.99*
Elegance, finesse, and grace are all desirable qualities for a Champagne to possess and this year’s Cuvée Sainte Anne has all of them with some to spare. The favorite at our summer “Grower Champagne” tasting, it was difficult for tasters to explain why (all the wines that night were good), but it has an added dimension, that little something extra that makes it sing without having to scream. Harmonious and subtle, its charms sneak up on you with a quiet confidence. Quiet no longer perhaps since last month’s Wine Spectator gave it 92 points with these comments: “A graceful yet sinewy bubbly, exuding whole-grain bread, mineral, honey and citrus flavors. Well-balanced and on the dry side, with a firm structure and a long, mineral and vanilla-tinged finish.” A beautiful wine of precision and purity. 
Philipponnat Brut Royale Réserve NV
Retail: $47 December price: $41.99 Sale price: $32.99* 
A mid-sized Champagne house that is just enough under the radar that we often forget about how good it can be. (In fact, I’m paraphrasing Champagne guru Tom Stevenson without meaning to: “This has always been an underrated house offering good quality and excellent value”.) Its quality was unquestionable in our blind tasting where it really stood out which was no easy task given the competition. Sexy rich and creamy, this offered layers of flavor and wonderful intensity without being heavy: baked apples and caramel toffee, crème brulée and cognac, this is one hedonistic Champagne. But isn’t that the point? For fans of luscious bubbly, this is for you. 
Pommery Brut Royal NV
Retail: $45 December price: $33.99 Sale: $26.99*
A storied Champagne house with a colorful history (Veuve Pommery was as strong a personality as the other famous Champagne widow, Veuve Clicquot), Pommery is extremely popular in France but not quite a household name here in the States. This may be due to its classic “French” style which is dry, elegant and delicate (over the years Pommery has claimed that they were the first to create a Brut style) and not as flashy as some others. We’re doing our part to spread the word, however, by lowering the price as much as possible after it showed spectacularly in our tasting. Vibrant, bright and zesty with citrus, chalk and bread dough notes dancing lightly around a beam of focused intensity. 
Pinon Vouvray Brut NV
December price: $17.99 Sale: $13.99*
An unorthodox choice perhaps as this is not the typical Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Champagne-style blend but blind tastings don’t lie: this is delicious sparkling wine and was favored over more traditional sparklers up to $25. Pinon is a star of Vouvray, a true artisan whose hands-off approach both in the cellar and vineyard (he is close to being certified organic) results in wines that reflect their terroir and whose commitment to quality is evident in all his wines. Creamy smooth and richly textured, this delectable bubbly has floral honeysuckle aromatics and flavors of white peach, vanilla, and graham crackers, all floating in a sea of tiny little bubbles. 
Trevisiol Prosecco Extra Dry NV 
December price: $12.99 Sale: $9.99*
A hands-down customer favorite in the $10-$15 category all year, every time we pour it at a tasting people are thrilled with the quality for the money and often seem genuinely surprised. Many Champagne look-alikes in this price range can be heavy-handed and clumsy with big bubbles and a lack of finesse. Not this; Italian Prosecco is it’s own bubbly, it’s not trying to be Champagne. Lighter on its feet, brighter and with less pressure (which means smaller bubbles), this is floral and inviting with mild peach and citrus flavors and a clean zestiness that is refreshingly simple and pure. It makes an excellent apéritif that won’t bog you down and is alarmingly addictive once you realize its charms. 
Krug Grand Cuvée N.V. 
Regular price: $195 December price: $160 all month long
If money was no object, the real winner of our blind tasting would be Krug, no questions asked. It is painstakingly made by hand, combining as many as 50 base wines fermented in small oak barrels sourced from 20 to 25 mostly Grand Cru vineyards and 6 to 10 vintages, then aged for at least 6 years on the lees. Displaying a complex combination of elegance and power, bold flavors and quiet touches, it is disarmingly beautiful and always a memorable experience. Krug's masterful blending of older, mellow vintages with younger, more vibrant intense ones gives the wine a perfect balance of richness and verve. In other words, it’s about as close to Champagne perfection as you can get. 
*-Sale price valid November 30-December. 3

More Great Gift Ideas!
Harmonia Pinot Noir Oregon 2005 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Michael Beckley's goal is to make wines that unabashedly display their own personality and rhythm while taking a hands-off approach. Harmonia is his basic Pinot Noir and offers a harmonious combination of spicy sweet cherry fruit, cranberry and floral rose notes that perfectly balances with a midweight, rich-yet-light elegant mouth-feel and a long sexy finish. One of the best 2005 pinots we've tasted to date and a steal at this price.
Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $35.99/ $28.99 by the case.
One of our best-selling Washington Cabernets since the formidable 1999 vintage, a recent tasting confirmed that this is still a crowd-pleaser par excellence. Boldly flavored, lushly textured and dripping with adjectives, this packs a wallop of barrel-aged Cab flavor: black currant and plum fruit, smoky woodsy spice, and an intriguing maple syrup/soy sauce note that may sound strange but is awfully appealing. For the Cab lover on your list or alongside Christmas dinner’s Prime Rib, this is sure to be a hit. 
Chateau Caronne Ste. Gemme 2000 $29.99/ $23.99 by the case.
Nothing suggests Old World elegance as much as a classy bottle of Bordeaux like this beauty from the great 2000 vintage. Coming alive now after many years of quiet slumber, this reveals layers of complexity in true Bordeaux fashion: dusty black currants, briary raspberry, tobacco, leather, and woodspice. Full-flavored, long and rich on the palate with traces of silky tannins on the finish, this reminds us of how Bordeaux can be so special. 

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