Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.

2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008
Jan/Feb 2007	March 2007	April 2007	May 2007
June 2007	July 2007	August/Sept 2007	October 2007
November 2007	December 2007

January/February 2007
Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2004
$44.99/$35.99 by the case
Year in, year out, DDO is one of the top handful of Oregon Pinot Noirs that always delivers and the 2004 Willamette Valley just flat-out blew us away when we tasted it at the winery recently. Full of spicy cherry and plum fruit, lovely floral notes and the perfect hint of oak, it’s a mouthful of pleasure. The medium- weight, silky-textured wine also possesses great depth and concentration, meaning you can drink it now or cellar it for years. We’ve had several mid-90s vintages lately and they were stunning. Also a bonus, DDO releases later than most, so this has had time to mellow in bottle for prime drinkability. Hindsight is 20/20 and now that most of the 2004’s have come and gone, the verdict is clear: 2004 was a pretty sexy vintage and this is one of the best. 

Hayman & Hill Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2005
$12.99/$10.35 by the case
Speaking of great Pinot, these are anxious times for lovers of that fair varietal. On one hand there has been an explosion of great-tasting pinots thanks to good vintages and more producers; on the other hand, its rising popularity and two consecutive small crops in Oregon have led to overall price increases and a real dearth of values. Unfortunately this hand currently holds the cards and will so for the near future (Oregon 2006 was a blessedly huge crop so we’re keeping our fingers crossed on quality). Forced to cast our net a bit wider, we were thrilled when we reeled in this beauty: a tasty character-filled pinot noir at an everyday price. Reminiscent of last year’s smashing pinot noir value, the Cummins Ridge, this is medium-bodied and silky smooth with bright floral raspberry notes balanced by darker cherry and spice. We found it awfully easy to like and based on early customer feedback, we’re not alone. If there’s another Pinot as good in the price range, we haven’t seen it. 
Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release Napa Valley ‘03
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. (regular price $25.99) 
December is a crazy month here with much less time for tasting or exploring but we always keep an ear open for potential advice (especially from trustworthy palates). That is pretty much the story here: talking Cabs with a customer, she mentioned one she had at Higgins (trustworthy palates all around), so we tried a bottle and voilà! A formidable Napa Cab that is rich and intense with sweet black currant fruit, sexy vanilla oak notes and a long sappy mouthwatering finish. Very silky and polished with an unexpected elegance that balances the powerful fruit. “Deal” and “Napa” usually don’t mix well but here they seem to get along very nicely. 
Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett 2005
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
Early winter brought cold weather, sporadic power outages and the rest of our German wines that were ordered last spring. A quick glance at our notes reminded us why we bought this; 1. Awesome deal. 2. Dangerously easy to drink. 3. Dry and minerally enough to avoid being painted as “sweet” but still powerful, fleshy, and fruity. But that’s just a boring list. Importer Terry Theise has a much more colorful description: “Mint and slate as always, but this is really riotously mineral, utterly smashed-rocks and spearmint; tangy to within an inch of its life; I love its cat-claw ferocity and paper-cut clarity.” How can one not be a little bit curious about that? 
Corte alla Flora Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001
$19.99/$15.99 case
A new Italian for Portlanders to fall in love with, thanks to one of our intrepid feet-in-the-vineyards local importers. Reminiscent of its more famous cousin Brunello di Montalcino (without the fanfare or price) or a hearty Chianti Riserva, this has Tuscany written all over it: high-toned black cherry fruit, floral rose petal and wet black earth aromatics, all capped off with a long chewy finish. 2001 was a superb vintage (evident in many high-scoring Tuscan reds including the Wine Spectator #1 wine of 2006) AND it was 5 years ago (oh how time flies) giving this a complexity and nuance that can only come with bottle age. Direct importing keeps the price fabulously low as this is way more interesting than many more expensive versions we’ve had lately. 

An Iberian Education 
The wines of Spain continue to be hot stuff; the values can be amazing (check out the Case of the Month’s Fuego Garnacha, its price is “Crazy Eddie” insane), and the variety of styles, regions, and blends offers plenty to explore, even for longtime Spanish fans. These two have been selling great and we wanted to spread the word before they are gone. Also check out our upcoming Iberian tastings and classes from Port to Sherry & Madeira. 

Vina Solorca Ribera del Duero Crianza 2001
$21.99/$17.60 case
The appellation of Ribera del Duero was only created in 1982 but quickly has challenged Rioja as Spain’s leading region of high-quality Tempranillo-based reds. Although the varietal is the same, the style is usually quite different. Higher elevations keep acidity intact, and overall the wines are much more powerful. All this quick fame came with a price however and most well- regarded Ribera in the U.S. are priced well above their Rioja counterparts. That’s why we dig the Solorca: it has the brash bold flavors, hearty meatiness yet polished international style that says “Ribera” but at a direct import price. If you like Tempranillo but feel that sometimes Rioja doesn’t give you enough punch for your money, check this out. 
Mas del Frares Priorat 2004
$17.99/$14.40 case
The even-lesser known region of Priorat is one of Spain’s anomalies, but what an exciting anomaly it can be. Whereas Tempranillo dominates across the Iberian peninsula (with some obvious exceptions such as Sherry), Priorat offers a host of varietals: Grenache and Carignan dominate, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvèdre, even Merlot but NOT Tempranillo. Then there is the climate; in a word, harsh which counter-intuitively creates the potential for great wine. Hot dry summers (often less than 16 inches rainfall per year), rocky unfertile soil, and hillside plantings force the vines to dig deep for water sources resulting in low yields of concentrated grapes full of complex minerality and a heady earthiness. These low yields and the average age of the vines (old!) is the basis of quality here, something that cannot be duplicated from new plantings elsewhere. This recent find is pretty, polished and smooth for such a monster, with floral red berry fruit aromatics that turn black and spicy on the palate. Full bodied, hearty yet smooth, this is good winter wine. 
New Arrivals Worth Checking Out 
Dusky Goose Pinot Noir 2004 ($48.99)
A star of January's 2004 Oregon Pinot Noir tasting made by Lynn Penner-Ash in a sexy come-hither style; very limited availability. 
Zind-Humbrecht 2005 Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer ($20.99)
From Alsace's best in a superb vintage at a steal of a price. Don't dally, these won't be around long. 
Borsao Tres Picos Old Vine Grenache 2005 ($17.99)
A new vintage of this perennial Spanish favorite. Price is up a couple of bucks but so is the quality of the wine. A powerhouse.
Dom. Michelot Puligny-Montrachet 2000 ($29.99) 
A close-out deal brings you this fine white Burgundy already aged and ready to drink at a great price. Not much available but fun while it lasts. 
St. Innocent Pinot Noir Villages Cuvee Willamette Valley 2005 ($21.99)
Arriving this week. Consistently one of our top $20-ish Oregon Pinot Noirs. 
A smattering of roses: hey, why not? ($9.99) 
With the recent sunny weather and the fact that they were originally $17-$20 but the distributor wanted them gone and they're delicious and they're only $9.99, why not?
Ken Wright 2006 Pinot Noirs 
If you're a Ken Wright fan, we're putting a futures order together for his 2006 Oregon Pinot Noirs. Vineyards include Carter, Canary Hill, Shea, Savoya, Guadalupe, Freedom Hill, McCrone, Meredith Mitchell, Nysa, Elton, and Abbott Claim. Subject to availability. Please contact us by February 7 for more details. 
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March 2007
Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2004
$39.99/$31.99 by the case
It is clear now as Abeja heads into their fourth vintage that winemaker John Abbott has nearly perfected his winemaking style, producing beautiful wines of elegance and purity. It's also clear now that the word is out. Last spring we'd hear "Abeja?, not familiar with them"; by summer we'd hear "do you have any more of that Abeja? it was great". Of course, it was long gone by then. The 2004 maintains the previous vintages' style of balance, finesse, and seamlessness but shows more power and pulsing intensity. The complexity of flavors once again offers a textbook example of Cabernet typicity from red berries and blackcurrant fruit to dark plum and herbal spice while the texture is again a brilliant balancing act between the underlying structure and the velvety cushion on top. Unfortunately production was down in 2004, and with its newfound popularity, availability will be limited. 
St. Innocent Pinot Noir Villages Cuvée Willamette Valley 2005
$21.99/$17.50 by the case
Each successive vintage of this bottling has been more polished and focused than its predecessor and this new release is no exception. The 2001 debut drank like what it was: declassified juice that was good for the money but somewhat lacking in intent. Fast-forward to the 2005 and you get a true stand- alone wine, pure and focused, and a worthy follow- up to the superb 2004. Floral spice and high-toned red fruit aromatics lead into a mouthful of darker spicier flavors with a smooth elegant texture. This blend of Temperance Hill, Vitae Springs, and Shea vineyards from mostly younger vines produces a wine that drinks well young and gets quality Oregon Pinot in your hands without spending too much. 
Rock Horse Ranch Merlot Columbia Valley 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case 
Boyd Teegarden of Natalie’s Estate is doing such a great job with his wines we can’t help but write them up. We really wish we had lots more wines like this one from the northwest: small production, high quality fruit, attention to detail, character and complexity, all for fifteen bucks. Although labeled “Columbia Valley Merlot”, this drinks more like a Cabernet-dominant blend. (I could suggest that it tastes like Merlot from Bordeaux in a ripe vintage like 2003 but Bordeaux probably conjures up the wrong idea so scratch that comparison). Dark robust and layered with black fruit bass notes punctuated by red fruit highlights, it remains supple on the palate despite its big-boned frame. Like the 2004 (but arguably better), this should help edge Merlot closer to varietal redemption. 
Rolly Gassmann Pinot Blanc 2004
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
Pinot Blanc is usually not given a whole lot of respect in Alsace compared to Riesling, Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer. It's a nice starter wine, mild, fruity and easy to enjoy but often not much more. All that changes when the pinot blanc passes through the hands of an old master like the gasman. This 2004 is disarmingly aromatic and intriguing with minerally almost earthy aromas shot through with a hit of gunflint. Creamy and lushly-textured on the palate, the fruit is rich yet lively and finishes with a mouthwatering tanginess. Incredibly interesting and complex for the money, this shows pinot blanc at its best. 
Domaine de Beaurenard Côtes du Rhône- Villages Rasteau 2004
$18.99/$15 by the case. (regular price $24)
Beaurenard’s Rasteau village bottling has long been an under-the-radar gem and a great way to get much of the flavor and intensity of Chateauneuf du Pape (Beaurenard is a top Chateauneuf producer) for about half the price. Since the 1998 vintage, I can’t remember when it didn’t deliver the goods (excepting the very difficult 2002). Like many Rhône values of old, however, price caught up with quality, until now. The 2004 has been such a big hit, the distributor bought loads and got a better deal making it once again a terrific bargain at less than half the price of Chateauneuf. With violet lavender aromatics leading to layers of spicy black fruits with grip and intensity, this is powerful and serious stuff. 
Mocali Rosso di Montalcino 2004
$18.99/$15 by the case
The 2001 Brunello from this small direct-import producer wowed tasters at a blind tasting last fall ("who are these guys? never heard of 'em") and their 2004 Rosso is similarly impressive. Although on a different scale, it is an immensely appealing drink- now Sangiovese from Montalcino, especially considering that many other top Rossos are easily pushing $25-$30. Its charm lies in its open-knit style and accessibility: pretty and soft for a Tuscan red, with aromatic bright cherry fruit and cinnamon woodsy spice. Not a blockbuster, just balanced, clean, and delicious. 

March Focus 
Aged German Riesling Straight from the Cellar 

This eminent weingut should be designated a national treasure and lucky we are to have insider access via our ambassador friend Ewald Moseler. We visited this Riesling gold mine the last night of our autumn 2005 trip and wow, what a way to end our Mosel River travels. Our exceedingly gracious host Ka Jo (short for Karl Joseph) took our taste buds on a tour reaching all the way back to the mind-boggling 1971 5-star Auslese from Urziger Wurzgarten. Since taking over in the late 1940s, Ka Jo’s philosophy has been to stash away as much as possible of the better vintages for release years later, and stash they did. Their two-level cellar is reminiscent of a small parking garage but instead of old Opels and Mercedes it houses thousands of unlabeled bottles spanning decades. We showcased a range of these golden oldies last spring and sold out of everything that night. It’s taken almost a year to re-supply but the wait is worth it. These two were exceptional highlights out of all the highs; limited availability. 

Christoffel-Prum Riesling Auslese** Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1990 
$39.99/$31.99 by case
Amazingly pure and fresh for such an old wine, this offers a smorgasbord of Riesling flavors from the lemon peel and tropical fruit aromatics to classic ripe peach and apricot on the palate to the lanolin-creamy finish echoing with secondary flavors. Rich enough to be mouth-coating and long on the palate, this still has enough structure and acidity to keep it bright and lively. 
Christoffel-Prum Riesling Spatlese Urziger Wurzgarten 1994
$24.99/$19.99 by case
Priced less than most current release Spatlese and 13 years old?! Insane! Aromatically this shows more signs of its age than the 1990 Auslese with classic aged Riesling notes of petrol, menthol and beeswax but rockets back on the palate with a fragrant peach lushness followed by a citrus-y kick of acidity on the finish. 
Christoffel-Prum Riesling Tasting with Ewald Moseler
Come taste what we’re talking about! 
Friday, March 23, 5-7:30, $15 (Bonus Pour $10)
1998 Riesling Kabinett Urziger Wurzgarten
1994 Riesling Spatlese Urziger Wurzgarten
1993 Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr
1990 Riesling Auslese** Wehlener Sonnenuhr
1988 Riesling Auslese** Urziger Wurzgarten
1971 Riesling Auslese***Urziger Wurzgarten (Bonus)
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April 2007
Marcel Deiss Englegarten 2001
$21.99 with a 6 bottle limit. Regular price $34
No the price isn't a typo. We were thrilled to pick up this Alsatian white from one of our favorite producers for a song due to a distributor change. Certainly worth its regular price (judging from how much we sold, many of you obviously agree), I'll go out on a limb here and say very few if any $22 whites are this interesting. Englegarten is a gravelly vineyard at the domaine in Bergheim; years ago Jean-Michel realized that producing a wine from all the varietals in the vineyard together made for a much more complex, interesting and "true to the terroir " wine than bottling them separately which is the norm in Alsace. Comprised of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Muscat and Pinot Beurot, this is rich and weighty yet dry and racy, structured yet open and inviting with layers of varying stone fruit flavors (peach, apricot) and a pronounced minerality. Jean-Michel likened it to drinking water with stones in your mouth. No easy quaffer, this cerebral wine asks you to pay attention but definitely makes it worth your while. 
J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005 
$21.99/$17.50 by the case. 
Another winner from Jay Somers but no surprise there. What came as a small surprise (a good one) was how similar it is to the 2004 and how nicely it is drinking already. Like so many 2005s, it takes more time to open in the glass (or decanter) than the 2004 but to trace its flowering is one of its joys. At first glance, it is rich and mouth-filling with blacker fruits dominating and notes of leather and scorched earth. The second (or third) reveals brighter more tangy fruits such as black raspberry and cherry which becomes much more plush and supple on the palate. 
Valserrano Rioja Riserva 1998 
$17.99/$14.35 by the case. 
Fabulous wine, fabulous price. Tasters found this Spanish beauty to be a quite a deal in a January Rioja tasting at its regular price of $22; $18 is really a give-away for a wine of this age, complexity, and quality. Although nudged out of first place by a $50 Rioja Riserva, this has all the hallmarks of a great traditional Riserva: silky creamy mouth-feel from extened oak aging, dried fruit notes, hints of coffee, cedar, cigar box, vanilla and sandalwood spice. With all the time in bottle, the flavors have married into a seamless whole. If you liked the Maragoya Rioja from March's case of the month (many of you did as it sold out faster than expected), you'll love this as it takes the same flavor profile to a whole new level. An eye- opening change of pace from the ripe fruit-dominated reds that typify this price category, I’ve noticed that the response is almost always a happy surprise. Limited availability at this price. 
Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Setilles ‘05 
$18.99/$15 by the case. 
Expert consensus has decided that the 2005 vintage in Burgundy is "the big one": best in forty years, best ever, etc., etc.. Although we won't suggest that you get a second mortgage on your home to buy in (like one prominent reviewer joked), we will suggest you try this delicious little deal. Great vintages help the less expensive bottlings most, and this is a stunning example. Olivier Leflaive produces a range of appellations up to the very expensive Montrachet (at $500 a bottle). This more humble blend is still quality fruit from Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault that is partially aged in oak and partially in stainless steel. A very well-designed blend as the richness of Meursault (almost tropical in this case) is balanced by the stony precision of Puligny. Light oak and a creamy texture from lees aging balance the racy liveliness, and as the wine opens these twin personalities harmonize into one tasty wine that actually tastes like white Burgundy, all for under $20. 
Tabula Rasa Red Columbia Valley 2004 
$15.99/$12.75 
This second label from Andrew Rich always keeps us guessing. Sometimes there’s a white, or a rosé, the red blend always changes, sometimes it’s not made at all. The one thing we know for sure is that it is always good, interesting, and affordable. This all describes the 2004 and the guessing game continues as there are no varietals listed on the label. A Rhône-style blend with a northwest emphasis on fruit, this offers sweet and bright red flavors that are lush and long on the palate balanced by an underlying firmness and tannin kiss on the finish. Throw in some peppery spice, damp black earth and lavender aromatics and that’s one heck of a wine for $16. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise. 
Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County 2005 
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
A recent tasting reminded us that while too many Zinfandel producers have taken ripeness and alcohol levels to unprecedented levels, Seghesio still offers classic zin flavors in a balanced & relatively elegant style. Zesty raspberry and blackberry fruit are tinged with spicy herb and brambly earthy notes. All in all, it's disarmingly simple: another great zin from these master crafters. 

April Focus New! Northwest! LIMITED! 

Beaux Frères 2005 Pinot Noirs 
Belles Soeurs is no more; to streamline their labels, Belles Soeurs is now called "Beaux Frères Willamette Valley", "Beaux Frères" now refers to a bottling strictly from the Beaux Frères Vineyard, and Upper Terrace is the single vineyard bottling from the winery's newer vineyard located above the older Beaux Frères vineyard. Winemaker Michael Etzel thinks the 2005 Beaux Frères is his best yet. Very limited. 
   Beaux Frères Willamette Valley $44.99 
   Beaux Frères Vineyard $74.99 
   Beaux Frères Upper Terrace $89.99 
Woodward Canyon 
Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series 2004 
$38.99/$31 by the case. 
One of the grand old names in Washington Cabernet, Woodward Canyon's Artist Series is consistently a great wine: powerful, structured and long-lived. That said, the 2004 vintage produced a wine that is more elegant and refined than the 2003, offering pure Cabernet flavors and nuanced complexity thanks to the many distinct terroirs that comprise the final blend. One glass and it is easy to see why this is always one of Washington's more sought-after wines. 
Owen Roe 
Another northwest favorite whose wines are in short supply, Owen Roe has a slew of new spring releases that are sure to cause consternation once they've sold out, which for most of them will be soon. 
Yakima Red 2005 
$41.99/$33.50 case 
A Bordeaux blend from some of Yakima's cooler vineyards that emphasizes grace, balance and finesse all with an underlying power. A beautiful wine with the aromatic complexity of Cabernet Franc, the softness of Merlot, and the dark power of Cabernet Sauvignon. 
Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 
$41.99/$33.50 case 
In response to the elegant Yakima Red, this is full-throttle Walla Walla Cabernet: big and rich with ripe black currant fruit and toasty oak. A lusty wine that always impresses. 
DuBrul Merlot 2005 
$44.99/$35.99 case 
This wine will make you realize that not all Merlot need be avoided; quite the opposite, it's fantastic. David brought the 2001 to our DuBrul Cabernet vertical last November as a bonus; what a great surprise.  Don't miss their new foray into Sangiovese (2004, $27.99/$22.40 case) and the very limited (only 100 cases produced) Slide Mountain Cabernet Franc, their most expensive bottling (2004, $69.99/$55.99 case). 
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May 2007

Vietti Barbera d'Asti 2004
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Great producer, great vintage, and now, a great price. Regularly $22, our local distributor "took a position" (as they say) and got the price down to $15, a steal for this quality. Portland boasts a dazzling array of Barbera from the very traditional (peat moss anyone?) to the modern (California Syrah, anyone?). The Vietti is a very happy medium; unmistakably Barbera, it is marked by open and inviting aromatics of freshly tilled soil minerality and wild herbs before turning to tarry black cherry fruit on the palate that finishes with a lip- smacking tang. Dark and subtly spicy with admirable structure in the classic "iron fist in the velvet glove" sense, it's plush on the surface with just enough underlying structure to keep it real. 
O'Reilly's Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006 
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
This is when I feel old, thinking back over the many vintages of O'Reilly's Pinot Noir I've written up, and how much the Oregon wine industry has changed in the last ten years. One thing that hasn't changed is the consistently high quality-to-price ratio of this everyday quaffer, making it a shoe-in for the best Oregon Pinot Noir value vintage after vintage. The 2006 joins the party with its charming buoyant personality, pretty high-toned red fruit profile and zesty spiciness. Medium-bodied, with a sense of balance and silky texture that are virtually unheard of for a $15 Pinot, this is one to load up on. 
Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras 2003 
$17.99/$14.35 by the case. 
We blew through the 2001 Vieilles Vignes in November, and now the 2003 Vieilles Vignes is almost gone; what else do these guys have? Ah, the 2003 regular. And how is that? Awesome (no surprise) and cheaper than the Vieilles Vignes to boot. Called a "reference point estate in Vacqueyras" by Parker, Couroulu produces robust mouth-filling reds that crackle with the flavors of the southern Rhône yet remain pure and un-muddled. Red kirsch and cassis vie with dark raspberry for fruit dominance while licorice, herbal spice and smoky notes waft in and out. As 2003 was hot, the tannins are ripe and just shy of firm and bottle age has smoothed out the texture making it long and supple on the palate. 
Siltstone Pinot Gris Guadalupe Vineyard 2006 
$14.99/$11.99 by the case. 
Here's a repeat visit from one of our favorite, best-selling Oregon Pinot Gris' that is produced from nearly 20-year-old vines in Guadalupe Vineyard. Along with deftly managing vineyards for the likes of Domaine Serene, Penner-Ash and many more, vineyard guru Joel Myers babies this Guadalupe fruit and produces a Pinot Gris that blends zesty flavors with a creamy, smooth texture. The nose of spring orchard blossom, ripe peach and citrus lures you into a burst of flavors that include Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit and apricot, followed by a oh- so-juicy finish that lingers on. This is no one-note, mellow gris -- it's more the life-of-the-party, we're havin' fun! style. With just over 300 cases made, it'll be gone before you know it. 
A Tale of Two Sauvignons (Blanc, that is): 
A theatrical-trailer comparison of Loire Valley and New Zealand in 200 words or less. 
Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2005 
$21.99/$17.50 by the case. 
Imagine taking an afternoon nap under a blossoming apple tree; your head rests amid grasses, wildflowers, and herbs while a nearby babbling brook rushes over polished stones sending up a cool refreshing mist. You dip your hands in the clear, bracing water and drink deep: that is what this wine tastes like, alive. Dry, stony, mildly fruity and delicately refreshing with whiffs of lemon verbena, pear blossom, and hay. Ah Springtime! 
Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2006 
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. 
Racy, zesty, zippy, limey-wake up tastebuds! Your whole mouth tingles, your heart beats faster; mouthwateringly tangy and addictive, this lemon-lime spritzer-meets-green apple Jolly Rancher is almost too much to bear sitting down, all that explosive tropical fruit, key lime pie, lemon peel and, am I crazy, gunflint? As the excitement spreads, you feel as if you can accomplish anything (grill those shrimp! Toss that salad!) but then again, you could just take another swig and experience the rush all over again. And again, and again... 
Fine Print: 
Imported by Kermit Lynch, Reverdy is a long-time Portland favorite whose style often reveals a succulent fleshiness to complement that trademark Loire Valley minerality. Dog Point consists of the ex-Cloudy Bay winemaker and chief viticulturist who released their first vintage in 2002 to immediate acclaim. With vineyards planted in the 1970s (fruit originally went to Cloudy Bay) and years of experience, they quickly became known as one of New Zealand's top Sauvignon Blanc producers. 

May Focus 
High-interest, Low-volume: new limited releases 
G. Mugneret Vosne-Romanee 2004 
$61.99/$49.60 by the case. 
Portland is fortunate to receive even a tiny allocation of these lovely wines which are beautifully crafted and sing with the complexity that only Burgundy can muster. The Mugneret sisters have upped the quality these last few years leading Allan Meadows of Burghound to remark "over the past few years, I can't think of any domaine that has performed better. If you're not familiar with the Mugneret wines, you owe it to yourself to get acquainted, even with the Bourgogne as it is consistently one of the very best in all of Burgundy". Their Vosne is pure elegance, silky and fine with bright red fruit, earthy spice and blooming roses. 
Justin Isosceles Paso Robles 2004 
$57.99/$46.40 by the case. 
The flagship wine from one of Paso Robles' best producers as well as one of the most collectible. After Parker gave the 2002 a 95-point review and most of the 2003 went up in smoke in a storage facility fire, this bottling has become scarcer than winter sunshine. A Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Bordeaux blend that is rich velvety and packed full of dark berry fruit, vanilla and woodspice. 
J.K. Carriere "Glass" White Pinot Noir 2006 
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. Arriving mid-May. 
Jim Prosser has been doing this one right for years and as more wineries jump on the rosé bandwagon with extra fruit or inspired manipulation, this still clearly shines. 100% whole cluster pressed and barrel fermented with wild yeasts, this is no afterthought; with fruit from older vines at Temperance and Corral Creek vineyards, this is lush yet delicate, juicy yet complex, delicious all around. Or as Jim puts it: "Balance, serenity, amazement, the words are unimportant, the experience is invaluable".
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 June 2007

Memorial Day brings out the BBQs, shorts and flip-flops and here in Oregon dreams of summer, the arrival of the white- bedecked Royal Rosarians and a river of new releases. After two short harvests however, there is less than the usual amount of juice to go around and many wines are in short supply. Jump quickly to grab some of these favorites before they're gone.
 
 St. Innocent Pinot Noir White Rose Vineyard 2005
 $44.99 6 bottle limit, limited availability.
 This wine has proved over the years to be one of the more compelling Pinot Noir produced in the Willamette Valley. One can endlessly argue over "best" and "favorite" but there's no question that this vineyard offers an amazing array of flavors and aromas. It leans more toward the sauvage notes of Burgundy rather than the pretty fruit-driven flavors more typical of Oregon, yet still packs quite a punch of lush ripe red fruit. This 2005 tastes just like we expected, if not better. The floral high-toned dark cherry fruit is bright, tangy even, and laced with wild herb spice and a pronounced minerality which is relatively rare in Oregon. Long, layered, and complex with a silky yet almost chewy texture, this is a Pinot to ponder. High elevation, 25+ year old vines, organically farmed, great vineyard. Production was down 40% in '05; only 243 cases produced.
St. Innocent Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Willamette Valley 2005
 $38.99/$31 by the case.
 St. Innocent has been producing a Shea bottling for almost a decade and as the vines get older, the wine keeps getting better. Not that the vines are young; St. Innocent gets fruit from one of the original 1990 plantings which is all Pommard clone on a steep section of the vineyard. These factors give added muscle as is evident in this terrific 2005. Showing typical Shea characteristics marked by St. I's winemaking style, this is aromatically pretty, elegant and floral turning soft and voluptuous on the palate. Bright red fruits dominate with darker fruits playing muted bass to the singing cherry/raspberry duo on high. Possessing greater depth and breadth than previous vintages, this boasts plenty of extracurricular complexity, spice and earth. Winemaker Mark Vlossak thinks this might be his best Shea bottling yet, and thus far, we're inclined to agree.
 Andrew Rich Coup d'Etat 2005
 $24.99/$19.99 by the case.
 Another favorite vintage after vintage, Andrew wasn't going to release this for another month or so but it is tasting so good now, he figured why not share the bounty. A Chateauneuf du Pape- inspired mix of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise that sings with classic herbal and floral notes, while bold and ripe raspberry and spicy dark cherry fruit flood in to create an amazing flavor explosion that is almost shocking. Another sign that Washington is fertile ground for Rhone varietals that can hold their own with the real thing.
 RED NV
 $12.99/$10.35 by the case.
 The name says it all, right?. Well, not really I guess. RED is a creation of John Grochau of GC Cellars who a few years ago bought some extra fruit and released a crowd-pleasing, easy-on- the-wallet summertime Cabernet Sauvignon-based quaffer. This usually sells out too quickly to write up but we'll try anyway. Mostly Cab Sauv, with a bit of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is a big lusty NW red to pair with those ribeyes sizzling on the grill. Rich and juicy but firm enough with loads of mocha blackberry and dusty plum fruit, toasty American oak and a dollop of vanilla on the finish. You won't even need dessert!
 Lumos Pinot Noir Temperance Hill Reserve 2004
 $29.99/$23.99 by the case.
 We stumbled upon this late release from the blessedly accessible 2004 vintage and were thrilled there's still availability. Lumos is the label of longtime Temperance Hill vineyard manager Dai Crisp who produces limited amounts of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. Like so many 2004s, this wine just seems "complete", all the individual components are so well integrated. Generous dusty black cherry fruit is showered with that great Temperance Hill brambly spice, a superb theoretical marriage between Oregon fruit and Burgundian terroir. Tasty and smooth with admirable depth and length, simply put this is an excellent Pinot Noir for the money.
 Juillot Bourgogne Rouge 2003
 $17.99/$14.35 by the case.
 Yaking away about all these wonderful Oregon Pinot Noirs reminded me of their inspiration in the old country, one in particular. Bargain-priced red Burgundies are a rare find and this little gem has been happily luring Oregon Pinot lovers to the French side of the pond since last fall. Not a dense, chewy linebacker of a Pinot Noir, this is more Clyde "the Glide" Drexler on Dancing With the Stars. It seduces with spicy dark bing cherry, bright red plum and an elegant, sappy mouth-feel that marries perfectly with food. Subtle notes of earth, mulled spices, vanilla and cranberry add complexity. Get swept away for yourself.
 
 June Focus  And Don't Forget the White!
 From what we've tasted so far, 2006 is a great white wine vintage. For the most part, the wines are very aromatic and well- endowed; generous fruit flavors yet balanced by vibrant acidity. Although we had many delicious choices to contemplate, the following are some of the most interesting, not to mention most likely to disappear quickly. Come by and visit for the full report.
 J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2006
 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
 Always a fave and no wonder. Jay sure has the touch with whites, coaxing the best and leaving the rest. Exhibit A: this wine! An inspired blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris with a dash of Riesling, this is a wine that should make you stop and think "I'm really glad that I live in Oregon". Interesting, imited-production wines like this just don't make it to the rest of the country and God knows, they don't make them there. Showing the raciness of Sauvignon Blanc with its clean lines and purity of fruit, the Gris gets in the game by adding ripe peach aromatics and flesh on the backend. The Riesling probably adds some floral notes and citrus but when it's this delicious, I'm not too worried about it.
 Boedecker Chardonnay Purity Willamette Valley 2006
 $17.99/$14.35 by the case.
 How can one not be drawn to a wine named "Purity"? (Even the devil would be, if only to corrupt it). "Purity" is no gimmick, it refers to the fact that the wine is untainted by oak or malolactic fermentation (the original name "Virgin Chardonnay" was already taken by a dancer at Mary's Club), with the emphasis on the lovely Chardonnay fruit. Unlike some un-oaked Chards this does not taste steely or austere; extended lees contact gives it a creamy luscious mouthfeel which is richly textured but clean, balanced by good acidity. Mid- weight focused and aromatic, this is Chardonnay in the nude.
 Dominio IV Viognier "The Willow" 2006
 $22.99 Limited Availability
 Patrick Reuter and Leigh Bartholomew make maddeningly small amounts of wine; wine of this quality should be made in the thousands of cases as opposed to 120. However, there is obviously a link between quality and small production where a wine is carefully shepherded through all stages of production, where there is intent, and where the fruit sources are beyond reproach. "The Willow" is clearly the product of such care and paints NW Viognier in a very flattering light. Avoiding all the pitfalls common to "bad" Viognier (blowsy no- acid wines with over-ripe fruit and too much alcohol), this retains the "good": perfumed aromatics of peach, pineapple, and orange zest, full-flavored yet light on its feet and fresh, fruity yet dry. A welcome addition to your white wine repertoire without leaving the Northwest.
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July 2007

Cottonwood Marina Piper Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2004
 $23.99/$19 by the case.
 Aaron Lieberman's belief in releasing a wine when ready to drink and for a fair price makes this gem arguably the best wine on the shelf under $25. Aaron is heading into his fifth vintage as assistant winemaker at Owen Roe and started Cottonwood with his father in 2002. The Marina Piper bottling (named after his niece) is his attempt at capturing the essence of Dundee Hills Pinot Noir and this 2004 succeeds brilliantly. Medium-bodied elegant and pretty, this offers an array of red fruit flavors (strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb) and an alluring spiciness with faint hints of tobacco and anise. Smooth and balanced with light tannins and a mellow suggestion of toasty oak, this is both classy and like many 2004s, outright delicious to drink right now. A very welcome new arrival.  
 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2006
 $24.99/$19.99 by the case.
 The recent history of Arneis starts as forgotten underdog in the 1970s and ends with it being called "one of the most glorious dry whites made in Italy" by Robert Parker (referring to the 2005 Giacosa Arneis, rated 93 points). Arneis is a difficult grape to grow (in the local dialect the word means stubborn or difficult), and can often lack acidity, but when done right it can be a lovely aromatic wine, with a pleasing succulent texture and delicate fruit. Giacosa was one of only two producers in all of Piedmont making Arneis in the 1970s and recent vintages show that he has mastered this difficult varietal. Wonderfully fresh aromatics suggest a meado w in bloom with almonds lemon and mild honeysuckle swirling about. On the palate, it is lively and bright but fleshy with pear and white peach fruit. Not a wine to age, part of its charm lies in how it represents the fleeting joys of summer.  
 Grosbois Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2005
 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
 A cool little wine that revealed itself in a February Friday night Cabernet Franc tasting only to sell out soon after. Well, a little more became available and although July may not make you immediately think of old vine Chinon (it does make a great barbecue wine though), we're letting you know how good it is before it sells out again. Almost upstaging its muse (Phillippe Alliet, also in Chinon) at the February tasting, this offered that rare combination of ripe fruit, underlying structure, sauvage sous-bois aromatics and a polished mouthfeel with just enough rough edges to keep you guessing. Cured tobacco, black tea, ripe plum, graphite, licorice, there's all kinds of cool stuff in there. From 75 year-old vines, produced the old-fashioned way.  
 Domaine d'Aupilhac Montpeyroux Coteaux de Languedoc 2004
 $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
 One of the cool things about traveling in Europe is being forced (more or less) to drink the local wines. Outside of the bigger cities, the only wines available in most restaurants is what is produced regionally. Often this leads to new favorites as is evident when customers return from a trip and head directly to the most obscure corners of the shop. Why the babble? This wine just takes me back to the Languedoc where every meal seemed to be eaten outside, and the perfume of the air matches the perfume in the bottle. That and how the sun-baked fruit seems the perfect rustic foil for the grilled lamb kebabs and garlicky dishes. Chewy dark and spicy, the texture is nevertheless pretty lush and polished for such a powerful wine while the mineral and wild herb notes let you know this can be nothing but a Mediterranean wine.  
 Commanderie de Peyrassol 2006
 $17.99/$14.35 by the case.
 Our favorite rosé last summer sold out almost immediately, so we loaded up on the 2006 and are so glad we did. Our first shipment has already come and gone but it's now back in and ready to delight. Hailing from Provence and imported by Neal Rosenthal, this epitomizes the delicate subtle style of rosé: pale and pretty with just wisps of red berry fruit, zesty orange peel, and a bracing tangy finish. Dry, refined and classy, this beautiful wine is classic Provençal rosé.  
 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2006
 $14.99/$11.99 by the case.
 What a delicious surprise! I was skeptical when offered Cabernet Sauvingon rosé from South Africa, but one glass and I was hooked. Mulderbosch is actually one of South Africa's top wineries producing white wines that are lively, fresh, yet packed with flavor. This rosé is similar: the juicy and generous fruit is balanced by lively acidity and an overall freshness that is immensely appealing, making this disappear as if by magic. If the Peyrassol is more ponder, the Mulderbosch is more pounce.
 
Small Vineyards Direct Import Arrivals
 
 Small Vineyards is one of Portland's favorite Italian importers, working with tiny estates, mostly family-run and many organic, who produce wines of character and personality. The following wines are only available by direct import; case production is too small to carry year-round, even for this "small" importer. We sent out an e-mail offer in March and the response was fantastic. If you missed out then, we purchased extra quantities of our favorites.  
 Trevisiol Rosé Brut 2006
 $16.99/$13.50 by the case.
 His Prosecco flies out of here; every time we pour it we go through cases and we expect a similar response to this, a lovely strawberry-hued sparkler with the same tiny bubbles and lively freshness that make the Prosecco such a treat. Light bright and refreshing with just a hint of red berries, this is destined to be a favorite summer aperitif that will be great with cheese and nibbles sitting on the deck or with salmon and chicken fresh off the grill. 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Prosecco. Available for the first time in the US.  
 Antonio Sanguineti Vincero! 2006
 $9.99/$7.99 by the case.
 Brought to us by "Maestro" Sanguineti, who makes the very popular Nessun Dorma Super Tuscan we've featured before. A tasty Tuscan white blend of Vermentino, Malvasia, and Chardonnay that offers up a variety of flavors for not a lot of money. It begins with lushly- textured, vibrant floral white fruits veering toward the tropical and then is joined by a kick of lemon and lively acidity to create a complex finish. Equally good as a great sipper or a partner for food.  
 Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Sangiovese 2005
 $10.99/$8.80 by the case.
 A wine (and story) that is perfectly suited to the Small Vineyards vision. This wine is made by monks, and has been made in the same abbey since the 14th century (they also grow all their own food as well). Not released for commercial use, (how Tom Kelly talked them into selling some to the United States is probably a good story in its own right) any money raised by its sale is redirected to charity. And the wine itself? Awfully nice. A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, it drinks like an Italian with slight Bordeaux notes, open-knit and juicy with cherry plum fruit and hints of herbal spice. Mid-weight and built to be a daily drinker (it is the monks' daily drinker, after all) this is well-suited to summer's coming casual meals. Only 400 cases produced.  
 Rigoloccio Rosso 2005
 $12.99/$10.35 by the case.
 From Tuscany's Maremma region overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea comes this great summer quaffer bursting with tangy cherry and red berry fruit and a zesty spiciness with hints of orange and lemon zest. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante (Grenache), this is un-oaked and made in a new world medium-weight approachable style. From its jazzy technicolor purple brilliance to its juicy lip- smacking finish, this has freshness written all over it.
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August/September 2007

It's Back! Panther Creek 2001 single-vineyard Pinot Noir Blowout!
 

$19.99/$15.99 by the case (a mix of different vineyards is fine)
Yes, last autumn's screaming Oregon Pinot Noir deal is back - but not for long (as we learned the hard way last year). To make a long story short, a local distributor sourced this from a temperature-controlled warehouse in California from a distributor who went sideways. We featured some of these single vineyards last October and couldn't ultimately supply all the demand (distributor-to-distributor snafu or some such issue).

Much to our surprise and delight, a little more just arrived. We just re-tasted all the available vineyards to see how they're holding up and these three were our favorites. All are drinking beautifully right now; the years have softened the edges and mellowed the fruit, allowing the complexity of their individual vineyard characteristics to shine through.

Well-aged single-vineyard Pinot Noir for $20? Come on down!

Arcus
This mostly older-vine vineyard is owned and farmed by Archery Summit and provides grapes for some of Oregon's top bottlings (Archery Summit, Ken Wright, Bergstrom). Offering so much of what there is to love about Oregon Pinot Noir, this is all bright cherry and cinnamon spice, pretty and aromatic with a mouth- feel that is rich, balanced, and long. Gorgeous, lovely and delicious. Original release price was around $50 making this - I'll say it again - an unbeatable deal.

Youngberg Hill
Planted in 1989 with Pommard and Wadenswil clones, this dry-farmed cool-climate vineyard typically shows the darker-fruit side of Pinot with good acid structure and earthy spice. These characteristics show through wonderfully here, with the toasty, peppery nose leading to dark cherry fruit on the palate that is soft and inviting. Compared to the Arcus, this is less beauty, more brawn.

Bednarik
Also planted with Pommard and Wadenswil clones, this vineyard at the northern end of the Willamette Valley is known for its exotic spice profile; allspice, clove, and cinnamon jump from the glass as well as a White Rose-like perfumed minerality. Showing more red fruit than Youngberg Hill but not as bright and pretty as Arcus, this offers a little of both cherry and black raspberry, earthy minerality and spice, spice, spice.

New Arrivals:

2005 Dusky Goose Pinot Noir is in!
The 2004 was one of our favorites and based on how well it sold, one of yours as well. The 2005 is a worthy follow-up, once again sexy and seductive and offering that great balance of rich black fruit, pretty perfumed aromatics, a lovely texture and underlying complexity that can only come from older-vine fruit. Made by Lynn Penner-Ash from two vineyards, including Goldschmidt, one of Oregon's oldest. As always, limited availability.

Thinking Too Hard or Hardly Thinking?
Come late summer, most of us are on auto-pilot wine-wise, in a good way of course. More energy is spent doing nothing than thinking too hard about what to drink. Luckily new vintages of old favorites just arrived, offering something new and exciting, motivation enough to leave the deck chair.

Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes 2005
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
From the 1998 vintage to the 2001, this wine was legendary; a powerhouse that combined old world Rhône flavors with a new world sensibility, all for a price that allowed repeat consumption. (I opened a 2001 last month, it's still going strong). Then came the disastrous 2002 harvest and more tragically, the winemaker's fatal car accident. His widow vowed to continue his vision, working with a new winemaker and consultant. This 2005 shows that the dedication has paid off, tasting very much like the 2001. Offering its trademark balance, this is perfectly poised between authentic Rhône flavors and new world succulence; the texture is velvety and sappy with black raspberry, kirsch, and roasted plum fruit while notes of spicy herbes de Provence, grilled meats and lavender/iris floral aromatics swirl about. One taster's comment sums it up beautifully: "This makes me want to drink wine".

Owen Roe Abbot's Table 2006
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
The most addictive wine in Portland is back. Finding new ways to draw the picture every year is not easy; paraphrasing what I wrote last year is. If you know this wine, this all sounds familiar, if you don't, you should find out why it's been our best-selling wine six years running with nicknames such as "catnip for people." A multi-varietal Northwest blend, people flip for its all-encompassing richness, pillow- soft mouthfeel, exuberant juiciness, and unique style. Although there are plenty of blends out there, nothing matches the Abbot's Table flavor profile, even though it itself changes every vintage (part of its charm lies in comparing vintage differences). The 2006 is stylistically back to the extremely popular 2004. With 23% Zinfandel, this is spicy, juicy lush, and offers a riot of berry fruit. 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc add balance and a modicum of structure while the remaining six varietals add complexity and yes, maybe even some nuance. Blending is truly an art, and once again David O'Reilly has created a masterpiece for the masses. (The rest, by the way, is 13% Syrah, 11% Merlot, 8% Blaufrankish, 8% Sangiovese, 5% Petit Sirah and 2% Malbec.)

Jean-Marc Millot Cote de Nuits-Villages 2005
$27.99/$22.40 by the case.
Finally! The first 2005 red Burgundies are here, great news for Pinot fans. These rich, full-flavored and impeccably-balanced wines drink wonderfully now, but will be amazing down the road. No wonder critics are calling it the finest vintage in decades. The real bonus in 2005 are the reasonably-priced village wines. This bottling kicked the derrière of more expensive wines at two recent tastings with its pretty raspberry jam and cherry confit flavors suffused with spicy aromatics and earthy undertones. The sneaky surprise was the vibrant intensity and the sappy round mouthfeel that slid into a long persistent finish. Trust us, this does not happen often in sub-$30 Burgundy! Maybe Millot's organic viticulture and very low yields are the reason - great fruit in the vineyard usually delivers great wine in the bottle. Check this beauty out and see what the fuss is all about.

Muga Rosado 2006
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
Better late than never. Muga's pink wine is always a favorite here and we had to deflect many an inquiry with "coming soon we hope". Well, "soon" has arrived and as usual, it was worth the wait. Coppery salmon in color, its delicate shade belies the wealth of flavor lurking within. A blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, and Viura, this sees partial malolactic fermentation and lees aging which adds richess and a fuller texture giving this a more serious vibe than the price (or color) suggests. Plenty light on its feet, however, with zesty herbal aromatics and floral strawberry/cherry fruit singing on high.

Nora Albarino Rias Baixas 2005
$14.99/$11.99 case.
Another Spaniard with enviable assets, this fruit salad masquerading as a wine manages to be chock-full-of-flavor yet remains bright, lively, and finishes clean leading the horse back for another swig. Such a nice variety of flavors, such seamless balance, such grapey freshness, no long explanations necessary, just kick back and relax. (Short explanation: this popular white hails from Spain's Galician coast providing an excellent foil for the region's catch of the day. With hints of pear, peach, and pineapple, try it with grilled prawns, scallops, or all by its lonesome.)

Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Tradition 2005
$39.99/$31.99 case.
Consensus at our recent Chateauneuf du Pape tasting was that for current drinking at a reasonable price, the Fortia was the wine to beat. Already showing lovely complexity and character, this came across as polished, elegant and classy without losing any of its Chateauneuf du Pape street cred. A welterweight, if you'll indulge the boxing metaphor, that is light on its feet and stripped of any unnecessary weight. (It is summer after all). The classic flavors are there: spicy raspberry, dark cherry, herbal garrigue and smoky notes, only in a more compact toned-down style that still packs a focused punch. 90-93 points in Stephen Tanzer's IWC.

More new releases of perennial favorites that are unfortunately in short supply, hence the "shorts" designation. Enjoy while you can.

Belle Pente Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2004
$39.99/$31.99 case.
Another beautifully-crafted Pinot from Brian O'Donnell that is classic Oregon. With a freshness and earthy purity that brings to mind a stroll through the cherry orchard, this captures the elusive qualities that make Pinot Noir so compelling. Wonderfully aromatic, this has intensity, the fruit is dark and spicy, but it never becomes heavy or clumsy. Balanced, elegant, and pretty but not light, those are the contradictions that make this such a joy to drink. Unfortunately limited availability.

Cameron Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2006
$14.99/$11.99 case.
With the price of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir grapes rising annually, "power-to-the-people" winemaker John Paul looked elsewhere to source some affordable fruit. Help came from an unlikely venue: the Columbia Gorge where very little Pinot is planted. After lessons learned from the 2005 vintage, they dropped lots of fruit in 2006, giving this more concentration and richness than the '05. That said, this is still Bourgogne rouge style pinot noir: light to medium-weight with tangy cherry fruit and lively acidity meant for "uncritical" summer quaffing.

Provenza Chiaretto Rosé 2006
$12.99/$10.40 case.
This Portland favorite is a direct import which is great for the price but availability is sometimes squirrelly; the initial shipment sold out quickly, but we hope this second wave will hang on for a while. Brighter and livelier than the 2005, this is pretty in the glass and tastes even better than it looks. An inspired blend of Sangiovese, Barbera, Marzemino, and Grappello.
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October 2007

A Word of Thanks...Thanks once again to all of you who helped make Great Wine Buys the Reader's Choice Best Wine Shop pick in Portland Monthly's Best of the City 2007 (August issue). A lot has changed in the eight years since we took over but one thing remains the same: daily interactions with wonderful customers who make us realize how fortunate we are to be part of this great community.

Domaine Drouhin Laurène Pinot Noir '04
$66.99/$53 by the case. Limited Availability.
"Stunning" "gorgeous" "oh my God" These were a few of the comments upon tasting this late release from one of Oregon's best. A beautiful marriage between Oregon fruit and French winemaking, this bottling was further blessed by the loveliness of the 2004 vintage. If you take the regular '04 bottling and expand the elegance, the fruit concentration, and the sheer depth of flavors you'll get an idea of what's in store. Charming in its youth, it will develop into a full-fledged wonder in a few years and easily last for a decade.

St. Innocent Pinot Noir 2005
Anden Vineyard and Seven Springs Vineyard
$38.99/$31 by the case.
Always a favorite fall release, this year made bittersweet by the fact that the 2006 was the last vintage St. Innocent got fruit from these hallowed vineyards (if curious why, we'll fill you in on the dubious circumstances). As mentioned before, St. Innocent's style is somewhat unique in Oregon: powerful, structured, and long-lived with layers of protective tannin and acid that when peeled away, reveals the complexity lurking beneath. As usual the Seven Springs shows more elegance and delicacy than the bigger-bodied Anden. The Anden is the powerhouse here: sappy and sexy, the black cherry fruit is round, firm and layered with notes of freshly-tilled soil, Pinot spice, magenta rose, and woodsy oak.

Owen Roe Sinister Hand 2006
$23.99/$19 by the case.
A Chateauneuf du Pape-inspired blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre that shows a redder-fruit, more elegantly styled wine when compared to other Owen Roe heavyweights. With over 60% Grenache, this vintage emphasizes cherry strawberry fruit and bright rosy aromatics while the Syrah and Mourvedre add spicy bass notes of darker fruit. Add that trademark palate-caressing texture and it's easy to see why this sells out quickly every year. Magnums also available (perfect for this year's Halloween party).

Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$17.99/$14.35 by the case.
Another lovely wine from one of Oregon's old guard (Russ Raney has been making Pinot since the 1986 vintage), this Willamette Valley bottling is always a welcome sight. Even if the price has gone up a few bucks, it's still undeniably a deal given the quality. 2006 is looking like a vintage that will please early; wines that are juicy, approachable and soft without being too ripe or alcoholic. This bottling takes that profile and runs with it: flavors of just-picked dusty cherry mingle with floral spice while hints of black fruit and earth hover just below the surface. Always one of the best deals of the year.

Rock Horse Ranch Stable 39 2005
$16.50/$13.20 by the case.
This Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend turned out to be quite the go-to red last fall and this new release is sure to follow the same course. A second-label wine from Newberg's Natalie's Estate, all of the juice is culled from the Natalie's line which in turn comes from top NW vineyards (Rosa Mytica, Pines, Hillside to name a few). The idea is to maintain the integrity of the Natalie's wines while making friends with an obviously under-priced value. The Cabernet dominates in the 2005, with black-, blue-, even boysenberry fruit overlapping the tangy cherry. Lively, smooth and polished but with satisfying grip on the finish, this is just as good (if not better) than many NW blends for a fraction of the price.

François Chidaine Touraine 2006
$12.99/$10.35 by the case.
Wait a second, Touraine isn't in the great northwest (unless you count the northwest of France), but we tasted this recently and felt compelled to spread the word. Chidaine is one of our favorite Vouvray and Montlouis producers creating wines of purity and intensity. His high-quality ethic filters down into even his least expensive bottling, this Sauvignon Blanc from the larger Touraine appellation. Quite opulent for a simple Loire white, the rich fleshy fruit is deftly balanced by racy acidity and wet stone aromatics. Biodynamic as well, so not only does it taste good, it makes you feel good all over.
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November 2007

Give Boring Holiday Wine the Bird...

December 2007

Champagne Sale...Stock up for the Holidays!

A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionnelle NV
Retail: $50  -  December price: $42.99
This stunning grower Champagne exploded onto the Portland scene several years ago and has remained one of our most popular buys. I've heard more than once "This is my new favorite Champagne". Madman importer Terry Thiese is obviously smitten as well, calling the Margaine Champagnes "the most simply delicious Champagnes in this portfolio...These can be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes you'll ever drink". Wow! Considering how amazing his portfolio is, higher praise isn't possible. This cuvée is practically a Blanc de Blancs (90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir) and has the raciness and purity of unadulterated Chardonnay married with a creamy richness reminiscent of fine white Burgundy. With piercing aromatics of minerals and lime blossom, the flavors stay precise and focused, with green apple, citrus and subtle toast - all floating in a sea of tiny little bubbles.

Gosset Brut Excellence NV
Retail: $46  -  December price: $38.99
The other big winner in our quest for Champagne excitement this season and an excellent foil to the Margaine to boot. Comprised of mostly Pinot Noir, this makes for a more hedonistic pleasure. In three separate tastings (one blind of similarly-priced Champagnes), this consistently showed an amazing array of flavors and a wealth of toasty richness, especially given the price. With notes of caramel apples, ginger, roasted hazelnuts and buttery brioche, the mouth-coating richness is balanced by bright acidity leaving an overall impression of elegance and heady sophistication. Gosset is the oldest known producer of wine in Champagne (dating from 1584) and clearly are still getting it right.

J Wine Company Cuvée 20 Brut NV
Retail: $32  -  December price: $26.99
A gem from Sonoma's Russian River Valley, this sparkler is lovingly made in the style of the old country yet offers the easy charm and flashy expressiveness which makes California wines so popular. This celebratory 20th anniversary bottling is a multi-vintage blend from the best Russian River Valley cool-climate vineyards and its pedigree shows. Initially tangy and mouthwatering, the lemon peel, tangerine and sweet tart notes become succulent and creamy on the palate with hints of toast, vanilla and pear leading to a long elegant and downright tasty finish.

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rosé NV (all Pinot Noir)
December price: $18.99
If Gosset's longevity seemed impressive with a 1584 start date, Albrecht amazingly has them beat by over sixty years; they trace their wine-growing ancestry back to 1520, truly the old guard of Alsace. Old but not staid certainly, as Champagne guru Tom Stevenson recently named them #1 in "new up-and-coming producers" an apparent contradiction best contemplated over a glass of this. With beautiful aromatics that suggest a Hood River cherry orchard on a sunny summer afternoon, this is draped in high-toned strawberry and cherry fruit, with a delicate mousse and classic Pinot Noir floral spice notes that lead to a dry clean finish. A crowd favorite at our summer Champagne tasting.

Delmas Blanquette de Limoux Brut 2004
December price: $9.99
A wonderful sparkler from the Languedoc that bested the competition; this offered surprising class and finesse for the money. Although Limoux is a stone's throw from hearty-red territory (Corbières, Minervois) in southern France, its vineyards are a bit higher and consequently cooler, allowing them to produce fresh and vibrant sparkling wine which has been done here since 1531 (the locals claim Blanquette was being made here long before Dom Pérignon arrived in Champagne). Made from the local favored varietal Mauzac (organically farmed to boot), this is bright clean and lively with surprisingly tight bubbles (big bubbles = big headache, a big bummer). Notes of green apple, light caramel, and even mild cherry are nicely woven into the light silky mouth-feel. Interesting, tasty, and cheap!

More Great Gift Ideas
Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Eason Vineyard Dundee Hills 2006
$29.99/$23.99 by the case.
Get it while you can. Pre-Thanksgiving weekend was a mob scene at this hot property, and availability is as always, limited. Year after year the Eason stands out from the rest as being distinctive, delicious and a smoking deal. You start with a whiff of dark bing cherry, raspberry spice and swirling floral earthy aromatics (aka Dundee Hills cologne), before diving into the fruit: high-toned blueberry and dark cherry mixed with hints of smoke and warm earth that add depth and complexity, all with that trademark bright silky Patty Green mouth-feel.

Domaine La Millière Châteauneuf du Pape 2005
$39.99/ $31.99 by the case.
A big hit at a recent blind Rhône tasting, this packs gorgeous aromatics of Asian spice, a velvety texture and traditional Châteauneuf flavors all into one tight little package. Parker's obviously stoked: "young emerging newcomers doing all the right things...a brilliant sexy-styled wine... This is full-bodied opulence with sweet tannins, low to moderate acidity, and gorgeous levels of plum, fig, black currant, and sweet cherry fruit intermixed with some smoked meat and lavender. This is a beauty of layered opulence and luscious texture. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. 92 points." I don't know anyone who wouldn't be thrilled with this, as a gift or with Christmas dinner.

Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2004
$43.99/ $34.99 by the case.
Wow, what a beauty. Some Tuscan wines impress with power (Brunello), while many unfortunately bore with insipidness but there are sadly too few that captivate quite like this one. With a charm that is difficult to describe, this is archetypical Chianti yet possesses a sense of grace and poise that goes well beyond mere Chianti. From a single high-elevation vineyard (over 1200 feet) on the estate where the vines are mostly 25-50 years old, its taste mimics its locale: in Chianti yet at the same time high above it. Even Tanzer's IWC, known to be cautious when it comes to scores and excessive reviews, was enthralled giving it the highest score of all 2004 Chianti: "Expressive aromas of blackcurrant, plum, mint and cigar box, all lifted by a mineral element. Dense and rich, combining pinot noir-like texture and refinement with syrah-like flavors of rare meat and raspberry liqueur. This boasts a wonderfully tactile feel and a remarkably long, palate-staining finish. A great Chianti with loads of personality. 95 points". A soul-satisfying experience for any Italian wine lover.

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