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on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have
changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please
check with us for current pricing and availability.
January/February 2008
Ken Wright Futures 2007
After barrel tasting at Ken Wright Cellars this past week, it's clear
that vintage 2007 will offer Oregon Pinot Noir lovers something to get
excited about. Despite rumors of a difficult vintage, Ken and team have
produced some fantastic wines thanks to patience (waiting out the rain
and allowing the fruit to fully ripen) followed by severe sorting of any
problem bunches as the grapes came in.
All
this hard work clearly paid off as the wines show remarkable purity of
fruit, freshness, richness and depth. Without knowing how much work went
into crafting these beauties, I think most tasters wouldn't believe that
2007 presented so many headaches. The downside of letting the grapes
hang so long (not to mention the obsessive sorting) was quantities are
on average 20% less than 2006. We're finalizing our order this week,
call for details and pricing to secure your order.
Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
The buzz on Abeja keeps building and with good reason. John Abbott
skillfully crafts his Walla Walla reds to provide balance, complexity
and style. Not only are the wines richly textured and imbued with a
unique depth of flavor, they have a grace and finesse that many
similarly-priced Walla Walla Cabs can't come close to. March 1st is the
scheduled release date, but demand is strong since 2005 is said by many
winemakers and critics to be one of best-ever vintages in eastern
Washington. So plan on limited availability.
Here's our Early-bird-gets-the-worm offer:
Regular price: $45 a bottle
Pre-buy: $40.50 a bottle
Pre-buy case price: $34.50 a bottle
Deadline to receive the special pre-order prices is Saturday, February
23.
Zoot Allures J. Christopher Zoot Allures news flash!
A last
note about our current fav-o bargain Oregon Pinot Noir. Now that
Oregonian wine columnist Matt Kramer has jumped on the Zoot bandwagon,
the orders are flyin' and the availability window is shrinking rapidly.
At this point, we have a "stack-in-back" but it won't last long. So give
us a shout or come on by. Here's a recap of our newsletter vignette:
Zoot Allures Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
The Zoot is back (“the one with the dogs on the label” as it is
sometimes called) and what perfect timing. Portlanders are always
lusting after a good bargain Pinot, but after “The Pillaging of the
Shelves” (Goya 1807) in December, the bargains are few and far between.
Jay Somers (of J. Christopher Wines) has always done a stellar job with
the Zoot wines and nothing has changed. Showing the open-knit juiciness
of the 2006 vintage, it’s a J. Christopher wine through and through:
medium-weight and pretty in a tomboy-ish sort of way with black smoky
fruit and hints of loamy spice. A little bit of funk in the nose (a
holdover from his Cameron days perhaps?) and a satisfying chewiness on
the finish are added bonuses, giving it more texture and depth than
first meets the eye.
Rock Horse Ranch Syrah Columbia Valley 2006
$16.50/$13.20 by the case.
Another spectacular value from Newberg’s Natalie’s Estate, perfect for
whiling away a cold night in front of the fire or impressing your
friends with your wine savvy. Made primarily from The Dalles-area
vineyards, this captures beautifully Syrah’s aromatic expressiveness as
a heady mix of violets, lavender, ripe blackberry, and peppery herb
notes soar from the glass. On the palate, it is sappy and sexy with a
lively cran-raspberry tang while the finish offers notes of oaky vanilla
and a kiss of tannin (courtesy of 15% Cabernet Sauvignon). Like the
other wines in the Rock Horse Ranch stable (sorry, couldn’t resist the
bad pun) this offers loads of flavor and personality for much less money
than might be expected.
Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2006
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
This new vintage of a long-time favorite offers all one could ask for as
a winter warmer wine. It’s hearty and deeply-flavored yet the fruit
remains pretty and accessible. Lush and expansive, the cherry strawberry
fruit is accessorized by s’mores-like flavors of graham cracker, mocha
and vanilla while floral spice aromatics swirl about. Made from 35-50
year old hillside vines, it offers much more depth and complexity than
expected in this price range; an added bonus yes, but it all comes down
to the tasty factor: Downright delicious and addictive, its undeniable
charms are hard to resist.
Jean Sipp Pinot Gris Réserve 2006
$18.99/$15 by the case
It’s easy to get excited about white wines when the weather is fair but
let’s face it, cold dark rainy nights make most of us reach for a hearty
red. What then to do when the occasion, dish, or mood cries out for a
white? This is when Alsatian whites really shine. The majority of them
have a richness whose deepness and fullness almost mimic red wine. On
our trip to Alsace, we were amazed that despite the richness of the food
they serve white with almost every dish, and once accustomed to it, it
totally works. The wines of Jean Sipp have long been a favorite here,
especially this Pinot Gris. Unmistakably Alsatian, this is lush and
weighty with whiffs of smoke and vineyard rocks permeating the white
peach fruit. Dry and impeccably balanced, from the mouthwatering orange
vanilla creamsicle aromatics to the long flavor-packed finish.
Ca del Baio Barbera d’Alba 2006
$14.50/$11.60 case.
Barbera is one of workhorses of the wine world. Solid, dependable,
comforting, it’s what many of us reach for when we just want a glass of
red with dinner. Although it usually doesn’t get the high scores and
glowing reviews that fire up consumers, most people agree that Barbera’s
charms are many, not least of all that it makes a delightful daily
drinker. Playing the chameleon, it can seem hearty and earthy one night
then seem medium-weight and almost pretty the next, a wonderful foil for
salmon. Without being overtly fruity, there is plenty of dark dusty plum
to sink one’s teeth into, and the natural acidity is palate-cleansing
and refreshing. The Ca del Baio has been a favorite here for years and
this new vintage seems to be the most accessible yet with its relative
juiciness and surprising vigor. Raise a glass to common wine!
Bodecker Cellars Stewart Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005
$33.99/$27.20 case.
Stewart and Athena Boedecker not only make great Pinot Noir, like most
talented winemakers they imbue each bottling with its own personality.
While the Athena has power and a long life ahead (you go, girl!) the
Stewart offers more immediate gratification. Long, broad on the palate
and downright sexy, this abounds in sweet black cherry fruit and a
peppery brambly spiciness. With the racy acidity characteristic of the
2005 vintage, the flavors push on and on creating a lively tug of war in
your mouth. Full flavored and richly textured but unable to sit quietly,
this is one of our favorite 2005 releases.
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March 2008
Cottonwood Marina Piper Pinot Noir Yamhill Cty. 2005
$26.99/$21.50 by the case.
Sheer Terror. This was our best-selling Oregon Pinot Noir last year
(everyone seemed to come back for cases) and the release of the new 2005
version had us reaching for the Xanax. What if it wasn't as good, what
if it was completely different? Lucky for you (and us) the 2005 is
flat-out gorgeous and bears a striking resemblance to the beautiful
2004. The structure is a bit firmer and more intense (it is a 2005 after
all) but the pretty aromatics and elegant bright fruit flavors are
there, with a layer of soft sweet raspberry/cherry fruit laying like a
velvety cushion on the fine-boned frame. As with the 2004, a parade of
nuances add complexity: hints of tobacco, anise, and flashes of spicy
oak. Extra ageing in bottle always makes this a late release, and like
most 2005s, the Marina Piper is just going to get better and better, but
it's pretty hard to resist right now. A very special Pinot at a great
price.
Domaine
Cros de Romet (Boisson) Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2005
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
We're always happy to have a great new Rhône red on the shelf,
especially from the highly-rated 2005 vintage. At a recent tasting this
rocked folks with a blast of richly-textured fruit and classic Rhône
sass, a beautiful marriage of all the heady rustic delights. Spicy and
peppery with herbes de Provence punctuating the roasted cherry and plum
fruit aromatics with an underpinning of lively mineral intensity, the
Cros de Romet is smooth and goes down easy. Cairanne is one of the best
and most respected Côtes du Rhône-Villages, producing full-bodied richly
fruity reds and this is a delicious example.
Château
Chevalier Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District Napa Valley 2003
$25.99/$20.75 by the case.
California Cab lovers rejoice! This is one of those rare "famous
offspring" deals that's too good to be true. Powerful, tasty,
complex...and it should be $40 a bottle. Chevalier is a venerable
vineyard site and winery that dates to 1891 and is one of three
vineyards that go into one of Napa's great reds, Spring Mountain
Vineyard. One of the jewels acquired in the early 1990s when the "Spring
Mountain Vineyard" project was getting started, Chevalier had not been a
stand-alone label for decades (its most recent heyday was the 1970s).
Mountain vineyards are known for producing powerful wines that are
structured, intense and long-lived and the Chevalier is no exception.
This new label is basically a second wine of Spring Mountain Vineyard
proper: younger-vine fruit made in a more accessible style at a lower
price (hooray!) while retaining plenty of that trademark mountain
intensity. With layers of flavor ranging from wild berry and cherry,
freshly-tilled earth, cedary anise spice and possessing ample mouth-feel
and gently gripping tannins, the quality level here is remarkable.
Cameroni
Giovanni Pinot Bianco Willamette Valley 2007
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
From wild and wacky John Paul, this is one of the first 2007 local
releases and it couldn't be any fresher. Like biting into a perfectly
ripe just-picked green apple, this is crisp firm and offers that tiny
bit of spritz that says "I'm fresh!". From the white spice apple skin
vibe in the nose to the whiff of candied jolly rancher on the finish the
fruit is zippy bright and exuberant. At only 12% alcohol you don't have
to worry about falling asleep after one glass, so kick back, relax and
pour yourself another.
New
Releases from Walla Walla
With the annual Taste Walla Walla trade show just behind us, it is
clear that there are plenty of reasons to "taste" Walla Walla. Lots of
new wineries, winemakers playing with new varietals, and a confidence to
pursue elegance over power are just a few of the reasons to be excited.
Quality is up across the board as well: not only are winemakers maturing
but 2005 is considered the best vintage yet. These new releases capture
some of this excitement; there's plenty more in the shop.
Mannina
Cellars Cali Walla Walla Valley 2005
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Located in the heart of Walla Walla, Mannina Cellars is a small
family-run winery that is just starting to show up on wine lover's radar
screens. For a former hobbyist winemaker with only a few vintages under
his belt, winemaker Don Redman has sure hit the ground running.
Christened with his grandmother's maiden name (Cali), this Cabernet
Sauvignon-Merlot blend stood out from the dozens (if not more) of other
$20-range blends for its balance, "complete-ness" and overall
delicious-ness. Although predominantly Cab Sauv, there is a charming
prettiness and elegance on high which nicely contrasts the rich berry
fruit intensity below. With a deft touch of oak and surprising vibrancy
and freshness for such a rich wine, this juicy crowd-pleaser is a
welcome addition to the Walla Walla scene. Only 330 cases were produced.
Seven
Hills Malbec Walla Walla Valley 2005
$27.99/$22.30 by the case.
With the Argentine Malbec craze continuing unabated, we're thrilled
to have a Malbec closer to home to offer the insatiable crowds.
Showcasing the variety that Walla Walla can offer, this eschews the
trademark burly black fruit and instead sings out with high-toned tangy
red fruit flavors and heady floral aromatics that explode from the
glass. Medium-bodied with a perfume of flowers and smoky cedary notes
and juicy cranberry blueberry fruit, this is lively, zesty and certainly
something new. Check out Jay Miller's review in Parker's Wine Advocate,
whose liveliness seems to mimic the wine: "Dark ruby colored, it offers
a delightfully exotic perfume of spice box, leather, clove, crushed
violets, and wild raspberries. Supple on the palate, this medium-bodied
effort has excellent balance and a 45+ second finish. 92 points."
K
Vintner's Milbrandt Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley Wahluke Slope 2006
$33.99/$27.20 by the case.
No blank white space, gleaming skulls, bombs or other such graphic
tweak can be found here -- just the big black K of the "classic" K
Vintner's label. Charles Smith's wild-man persona takes a break, and the
wine does too. This Wahluke Slope Syrah mightily impressed us with its
elegance and poise, while threatening to explode with all the dark
blackberry fruit, peppery spice, game notes, warm earth and hints of
nutty toast and smoke contained within. Not a huge, extracted monster
Syrah, the Milbrandt is mid-weight yet full of flavor and personality.
This one is a winner, especially since it is Smith's least-expensive
Syrah to boot.
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April 2008
Frozen Tulips? It's Spring in Oregon
J.
Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$21.99/$17.50 by the case.
We just sold our last bottles of Zoot Allures Pinot Noir so the timing
is perfect, as is this wine in a sense. One has to give Jay Somers
credit, the guy is consistently getting the job done, producing wines
that offer both enough character to make them interesting and enough
outright deliciousness that you just want to drink them dammit (as do
your friends, family, and neighbors). Like many 2006s, this is very
expressive, friendly and deeply alluring with dark sappy sexy fruit,
good structure and this irresistible mouthwatering tangy acidity that
pulls your palate along, like dragging your taste buds through a salad
bar of Pinot Noir flavors. We taste a lot of Oregon Pinot Noir, many are
nice sure, but so few in this price range offer the intensity,
flavorpack (like snowpack but better), and pure Pinot flavors like this.
Coldisole
Brunello di Montalcino 2001
$44.99/$35.99 by the case.
This late release from the monumental 2001 vintage is not only great
Brunello, it is priced as if it were still years ago. 2002 was a wash in
Tuscany with many Montalcino producers not even bottling a Brunello, and
while 2003 looks solid, many are pining for the days when the 2001s were
just hitting the shelves. Here's a chance to step back in time and take
advantage. Long on the palate, the deep dark fruit is chewy but polished
smooth with ripe tannins and a heady mix of black truffles, dark cherry
and chocolate-covered raisins that is unmistakably Tuscan. 94 points
from Wine and Spirits and 91 points from the Wine Spectator who said in
April 2006: "Fantastic aromas of black cherry, toasted oak and minerals.
Full-bodied, with lots of fruit and a long finish. Needs some bottle age
to come together, but outstanding." How kind of the winery to have aged
it, as it's now just hitting its stride with plenty of life ahead of it.
Pascual
Toso Malbec Reserve Mendoza 2006
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Although we sell oceans of $10 range Malbec because they're generally a
lot of wine for the money, it's amazing how quickly the quality ratchets
up at even just $20. This new arrival is a real class act featuring
bright raspberry cherry fruit, mouthwatering aromatics of gingerbread
and cinnamon and just enough smoky peppery notes to add depth and
complexity. Forgive the analogy but it reminded me of biting into a
raspberry jelly doughnut; richly fruity and mouth-filling yet super
smooth and light on its feet. Despite that comparison, this is a wine of
poise and elegance, a huge step up from your regular old Malbec.
Perrusset
Macon-Villages 2005
$15.99/$12.80 by the case.
Every year this Macon-Villages sneaks up on us, hiding behind its
reasonable price, then jumping out of the glass with big juicy flavors,
great balance and much more class than a sub-$20 white Burgundy usually
delivers. 2005 was a great vintage in Burgundy and it shows. Richer and
more intense than last year, the Perrusset entices with fresh and pretty
lemon and pear fruit, crisp minerality and floral spice that rolls to a
long persistent finish.
New!
Northwest! LIMITED!
Beaux
Frères Pinot Noir 2006
There's definitely some excitement surrounding these new releases as
well as the potential of the 2006 vintage. Beaux Frères strives to
accurately represent vintage characteristics in bottle, and for 2006
that means deliciously pure pinot noir. A barrel sample tasted in
October practically seemed ready to drink, a rarity for this long-lived
wine. Winemaker Mike Etzel et al. call the Beaux Frères bottling "the
sexiest, most hedonistic wine from this vineyard to date" and claim
"this may well be the finest cuvee of Willamette Valley we have made. A
real crowd pleaser".
As usual, availability is limited.
Beaux Frères Willamette Valley 2006 $49.99
Beaux Frères Vineyard 2006 $79.99
Beaux Frères Upper Terrace 2006 $89.99
Woodward
Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon - Artist Series 2005
$44.99/$35.99
by the case.
An old guard of the Washington Cabernet scene, Rick Small has been
consistently crafting some of the state's best reds since 1981, eons in
this relatively young industry. So his words definitely have weight when
he states "The 2005 vintage was one of the finest that I have ever
experienced." *Warm yet mild weather from budbreak through early
November gave the grapes plenty of hangtime to achieve physiological
ripeness while maintaining natural acidity. The result here is a wine
with a generous fruit profile of pure Cabernet flavors, layers of
complexity and lively acidity to balance the richness of flavors. Always
a favorite, this is sure to continue the streak.
Abeja
Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2005
$44.99/$35.99 by the case.
We offered this as a pre-order in February and now after two
successive tastings (one blind) we can't recommend it highly enough.
Their best Cab yet, this combines Abeja's typical style of elegance and
nuance with the power of the 2005 vintage to create a multifaceted wine
that pleases on so many levels. Winemaker John Abbott describes it
perfectly: "absolutely complete, abundant, and balanced." With stunning
aromatics, dense yet seamless texture, and obvious depth, this was
plenty fun to drink now but clearly will deliver much more to those
patient enough to wait. With the quality of the wine matching the hype,
this won't be around long.
Watermill
Winery Chances R Columbia Valley 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Ok, this isn't so limited (although they only made 360 cases) but it
packs plenty of that rich Washington fruit for not a whole lot of dough,
a great red to be drinking while the big guns mentioned above are aging
out a bit. This inaugural release was crafted by Saviah Cellar's Rich
Funk with the bulk of the fruit coming from Milbrandt Vineyard.
Predominantly Merlot, this is lush and juicy with overlapping flavors of
cherry, ripe plum and woodsy spice followed by a toasty caramel oakiness
(courtesy of American oak barrels) on the finish.
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May 2008
The
Age Issue
Have you heard the one about how long most wine drinkers typically age
their wines?
The time it takes them to drive home and pull the cork. I know, ha ha,
real funny, but there’s a lot of truth to that. Which makes it a real
shame that too many wines nowadays are released (and consumed) so young
that there is not enough time for much complexity to develop. So many
wines show better after a few years in the bottle and some absolutely
need it. With this in mind we’ve round up a few “aged” wines to
highlight what can be gained by a little patience.
Christoffel-Prum Riesling Auslese Urziger Wurzgarten 1992
$23.99/$19 by the case.
Riesling is one wine that most people would bet doesn’t age at all;
quite the contrary. Plenty of restaurants in Germany still offer
selections from the late 1990s and Monsieur Maurice from Albert Mann
mentioned at dinner last week that the 1996 Alsatians are just hitting
their stride. Forgive me for waxing lyrical yet again about the glories
of aged Riesling but upon tasting this, one cannot help but marvel at
what’s going on in the glass. We’ve been fortunate enough to work with
many Christoffel-Prum wines from the early 1990s, each a vinous romp
through the Mosel’s impossibly steep vineyards. Proprietor KaJo rules
over an enormous underground bunker stocked with thousands of bottles
going back into the 1960s and beyond. Generous to a fault, he offered
this deal as a way to keep the pipeline of older German Riesling (to
which we’ve grown addicted) open even with the euro/dollar mess. Nearly
sixteen years old, this wine is still going strong. Arriving last week
straight from his cellars, it’s just waking from its slumber with a
backbone of stony minerality framing the dense fleshy fruit. With
classic Riesling flavors of lemon tart and ripe apricot with just a
whiff of petrol, the original high levels of sugar have melted into a
honeyed creaminess with hardly a whisper of actual sweetness. All raise
a glass to KaJo; not only is it amazing that this is still available, it
should be twice the price.
Von Hovel Riesling Kabinett Oberemmeler Hutte 2002
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Another German delight that after almost six years old has developed
beautifully into a complex and creamy elixir. Kabinett-level wines are
designed to be enjoyed relatively young and this is at its peak. My
reaction upon tasting this was “wow, this is why people should drink
Riesling.” Such compelling flavors, such exotic aromatics …for so little
money. Lighter-weight and brighter than the Auslese above, this has a
lemon-lime sweet-tart zippiness, superb minerality and smoothly creamy
poached pear fruit. Dry, developed, and exciting, try this next time you
think that whites aren’t as interesting as reds.
Domaine Courbis St. Joseph 2003
$22.99/$18.40 by the case.
For those of you fortunate enough to attend the Courbis Cornas vertical
a couple of months ago, you saw how beneficial time in the bottle can be
for northern Rhône Syrah. For those who couldn’t make it, here’s at
least a slice of that magic. Silver-tongued scribe Robert Parker sums it
up beautifully: “Somewhat under the radar, but well-worth buying by the
case is the 2003 Courbis St.-Joseph, which reached quality levels that
transcends the appellation. This exhibits gorgeously sweet, smoky black
raspberry fruit interwoven with hints of graphite and earth. With a
voluptuous texture, superb purity, and low acid, ripe flavors that are
neither heavy nor over-the-top, this opulent St.-Joseph can be enjoyed
over the next 7-10 years. 90 points.”
Chateau Marsau Bordeaux Côtes de Francs 2002
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
If there is any one wine that needs time to show its best, it’s
Bordeaux. Often tannic, tight, and closed when young, if given enough
time they can offer layers of complexity that are much more elegant and
interesting than simply pure fruit flavors. 2002 isn’t really that old
for a Bordeaux but it wasn’t a blockbuster vintage, which suits this
offering just fine. Not only is this already drinking great, it’s a deal
(the more heralded 2003 is $30). A study in elegance, this offers pretty
high-toned red fruit and pencil-lead aromatics with a silky smooth
texture. Broad on the palate with excellent length, the black cherry and
muted sweet raspberry fruit is framed by notes of woodsy spice and a
kiss of sappy tannins on the finish. A wonderfully classy wine in the
Old World tradition.
Chateau de La Grave Caractère Bordeaux Côtes de Bourg 2005
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Speaking of young Bordeaux, for comparison’s sake crack a bottle of this
from the glorified 2005 vintage. Juicy and plump upfront, the layers of
earthy cassis and blackberry fruit are wedged between perfume of floral
rose on high and an undercurrent of dusty minerality below. The finish
turns a bit coy and chewy (which makes total sense for this young wine)
making it a perfect match for that last pot roast of the season. Better
yet, stash some in the cellar for the glory to unfold in the years
ahead.
Rondan Rioja Crianza 2001
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
I can’t help but mention this best seller, a star from the terrific 2001
vintage whose quality certainly belies its humble price. Imported
directly by our man Friday at PS Wines, it wallows in a pool of its own
aged complexity, all for a price that barely gets you a 2006 from many
“hotspot of the moment” regions. Dark and meaty yet soft and mellow with
those tell-tale aged Rioja notes of dried fruit, cedary cigar box,
vanilla and dusty spice. Probably not the wine to grab when you’ve got a
hankering for Zinfandel, but a refreshing change of pace from the
majority of fresh fruit-dominated reds.
But
drink these now!
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2007
$15.99/$12.80 by the case.
Always a welcome sight at this time of year, this springtime favorite’s
arrival means that front porch drinking isn’t far off. A northern
Italian-inspired blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and a “pinch” of
Riesling, this is currently showing more racy lemon peel Sauv Blanc
characteristics, with the Pinot Gris softening the back end while the
Riesling adds floral aromatics. This captivating blend has many fans and
sadly sells out within a few months. Please don’t be one of the
disappointed customers who just missed it; come and get yours today!
Conclass Rueda 2006
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
This quote from The New York Times in mid-April 2007 says it all:
“If aromas and flavors could somehow be replicated visually in neon,
Sitios de Bodega’s 2006 Conclass, a tangy white, would illuminate a
dining room.” That accolade was echoed this March when it was the #1
pick in a tasting of 25 Rueda whites (also at The New York Times)
where Eric Asimov remarked “It was crisp and delicious, and yet so much
more than that — Pinot Grigio drinkers take note! Its lemon, floral and
mineral qualities, with a touch of honey, lent it a complexity rarely
found in a [$12] bottle.” That’s what we’re talking about here;
refreshing, easy-drinking and delicious but with enough complexity to
satisfy you, our discerning customer.
Riondo Prosecco Frizzante NV
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
The new stylin’ Prosecco of the moment, this dials back the fruitiness
and effervescence found in many other popular choices, opting for a more
vinho verde-like minimalism and directness. Floral and pretty with
Moscato-like aromatics, this is light, delicate and creamy yet packs a
salty minerally tang on the finish, which like Beer Nuts, makes you
thirsty all over again. Offering the pure essence of white wine
distilled (metaphorically of course) into a mineral water look-alike,
drinking an entire bottle of this almost seems healthy.
J. Albin Pinot Gris 2006
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
One whiff of this spring quaffer and you’ll flash back to the first
flats of ripe peaches being unloaded at the farmer’s market. Gorgeous
aromatics of floral orchard spice lure you in and the vibrant lemon
cream and stone fruit flavors seal the deal. Richer and creamier than
your usual Oregon Gris, there’s a burst of tangy acidity that provides a
fresh vibe and plenty of energy. An added bonus is the perfect balance
between the succulent fruit and the elegant dry finish that represents
the best of both ends of the Pinot Gris continuum.
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June
2008
And the Pinot Caucus Supports...
Late
spring is a NW wine lover's dreamtime as we are inundated with an ocean
of new releases. Not only are there plenty of fresh lively whites and
rosés for the anticipated warm weather, but it's also the first time to
get an overall sense of the highs and lows of the newly-released
vintage. Innumerable trade tastings capped by the Memorial Day Weekend
Tasting Death March (forty wineries in three days) have given us the lay
of the land: what's hot, what's not, and what are the must-haves of the
season.
St. Innocent 2006 Pinot Noirs
White Rose Vineyard $47.99/$38.40 by the case.
Very limited.
Justice Vineyard $47.99/$38.40 by the case. Limited.
Temperance Hill Vineyard $31.99/$25.60 by the case. Less Limited.
We always
look forward to St. I's spring releases; will they be wound up tight or
already revealing the layers of flavors that they typically show after a
little time in the bottle? Usually the answer is a bit of both depending
on the vineyard and how long the bottle has been open. And the 2006s?
Without a doubt, these are the most forward and sexily-drinking new
releases that I can remember.
White Rose, as always, is a perfumer's dream redolent of a
thousand tiny fragrances that join together to provide a blast of heady
goodness. Graced with its typical high-tone sweet cherry fruit and
floral-mineral spice notes, this is already revealing its textural
charms as well with a lush pillowy mouth-feel and layers of succulent
fruit.
Justice vineyard is bangin' good with a cascade of red and black
fruit flavors enveloped in a creamy, almost buttery mouth-feel. Smooth,
seductive and utterly gorgeous, this was the surprise stunner of the
bunch.
Even Temperance Hill seems dolled up for the ball, with the 2006
being the prettiest and most expressive Temperance bottling yet. It
could be the younger sibling of White Rose with similar floral brambly
spice aromatics, high-toned cherry fruit, and a plush yet elegantly
restrained mouth-feel. A lovely trio, these beauties will age fine, but
they'll be awfully hard to resist drinking now.
Et Fille Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2006
$41.99/$33.50 by the case.
Of the 230+ wines tasted in the Willamette Valley around Memorial
Day, the 2006 lineup at Et Fille jumped right to the top of our
favorites list. Former home winemaker turned pro Howard Mozeico has
teamed up with his daughter Jessica (hence the et fille) to
fashion a lineup of single-vineyard Pinot Noirs that are deep and
full-flavored, yet elegant and crafted to pair with food. The
all-Pommard, organic Maresh bottling stood out with it's gorgeous Dundee
Hills aromatics, velvety texture, bright berry flavors mixed with earth
and a vibrant intensity that led into a long sexy finish. Mid-weight and
full of sappy cherry pie, sweet blueberry, hints of mocha and a streak
of minerality, the Maresh dances that magic Pinot Tango: grace and
beauty meet power and strength in one elegant presentation.
Le Clos de Caveau Côtes du Rhône 2005
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
Although not a new Northwest release, this was our last chance to
grab this killer Rhône from the great 2005 vintage. Located in
Vacqueyras (a stone's throw from Gigondas), Le Clos de Caveau produces
hearty personality-filled wines that offer pure unadulterated southern
Rhône flavors and whose qualities far exceed their humble appellation.
The wines are true to their terroir, organically farmed, and authentic.
This 2005 screams southern Rhône: fragrant and expressive with lavender,
wild herb and roasted fruit notes and a stony firm structure that mimics
its physical surroundings. Medium-bodied and elegantly rustic, tangy
kirsch liqueur and sweet berry fruit provide the focus for peppery
licorice herb notes that float in and out. Tannins on the finish speak
to the power of the 2005 vintage and suggest a long life, but they'll
also provide the perfect foil for this weekend's grilled meats.
GC Cellars (Grochau) Tinto 2006
$15.99/$12.75 by the case.
I almost admire John Grochau as much for his minimalist wine names
as for his winemaking. First came RED, his very popular Cabernet
Sauvignon-based blend. Now in its Spanish translation, we present TINTO.
As one would expect from a Tinto, there's a healthy dose of Tempranillo
which in this case is balanced by some floral high-toned Syrah. The
fruit comes from high-elevation vineyards in southern Oregon so although
it is plenty ripe, it is bright, pretty and balanced by surprisingly
fresh acidity. Medium weight with spicy dark cherry and raspberry fruit,
this is a delicious detour off the beaten path.
Zerba Cellars Wild Z 2005
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Our favorite northwest Bordeaux blend du jour. Fleshy and
full of feel-good acidity, this offers loads of supple berry-infused
Columbia Valley goodness without losing focus or control. With notes of
dark raspberry, bright boysenberry and buttered toast, it's all there,
expertly put together in a summer-weight, juicy yet tailored style.
Cabernet Sauvingon, Merlot, and Syrah do the trick.
Going, Going, Gone!
Honorable mentions of soon-to-be-sold-out favorites:
·Evesham Wood La Grive Bleue Pinot Noir 2006
·Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2005
·Owen Roe DuBrul Merlot 2006
·J. Christopher Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2006
·J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2007
·Betz Pere de Famille Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
·Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
ABPG*
When it
comes to Oregon white wine, Pinot Gris is king. That said, there are
plenty of other exciting ways to slake your thirst. Here are a few
current faves.
Z'IVO Three Willamette Valley 2004
$18.99/$15 by the case.
One of the more interesting white blends we've tasted lately and on
the complexity-to-price scale, definitely one of the most compelling. A
blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne that was built
to age, this is just now starting to show its stuff. Tasting more like a
four-year old white Burgundy than an Oregon blend, this is taut and
seamlessly smooth with spicy grilled bread and nutty vanilla notes
swirling around the mild yet intense apply fruit. Having spent extra
time on its lees, it is full of creamy richness without approaching the
butter zone. Perfect for a classy al fresco dinner party as it is offers
much more than a simple summer quaffer without being too flashy.
Hamacher Pinot Noir Rosé 2007
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
While the whole new line-up from Eric Hamacher was impressive, he
positively nailed the rosé. Neither too light nor too heavy, too fruity
nor too dry, this is a perfect summer day in a bottle. Not that we can
guarantee that, but there's more than enough promise to make the try
worthwhile. Pale coppery pink in color with brilliant clarity, this
whispers Pinot Noir with flashes of strawberry and cherry while singing
refreshment with lively bracing acidity. One of the best pinks we've
tasted yet.
GC Cellars (Grochau) Z White 2007
$12.99/$10.40 by the case.
Despite its simple moniker, this is an inspired blend of Chardonnay
(85%), Riesling (10%) and Gewurztraminer (5%) that in a bizarre twist of
winemaking tastes a lot like a dry Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh zippy and
bright, the Riesling and Gewurztraminer heighten the floral aromatics
while the Chardonnay (un-oaked) does the heavy lifting, offering clean
white fruit flavors in a supple medium-bodied texture.
Andrew Rich Tabula Rasa Blanc 2006
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Andrew is a longtime dabbler in non-traditional varietals and blends
(among other things) and in some ways paved the road for the kinds of
wine mentioned above. His Tabula Rasa label has long been a laboratory
of sorts for these blends, playful wines to match the playful labels,
for a price that would entice rather than scare. His new creation is 95%
Roussane and offers a similar weightiness to the Les Vigneaux bottling.
Focused and pure, the fleshy white peach fruit is balanced by floral
citrus spice and a mouthwatering tanginess. Fuller-flavored than most of
what's out there, choose this when looking for a little something to
chew on.
*Anything But Pinot Gris
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July 2008
Red, White & You
Boedecker Pappas Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
While not as heroic or epic as the quest for the Holy Grail, to the
many Pinot fans out there, the quest for good reasonably-priced Oregon
Pinot Noir can seem similarly daunting, ongoing, and sometimes rather
disappointing. The best examples sell out so fast leaving a trail of
dejected faces and "what now?" blank expressions. Happily, Boedecker's
"Pinot for the People" second label just arrived and is turning those
frowns upside down. A blend of barrels that didn't go into their
single-vineyard or higher-end bottlings, the fruit in this bottle boasts
quite a pedigree: vineyards include Shea, Justice, Anderson Family, and
Momtazi. Medium-weight, the pretty high-toned red berry/cherry fruit is
deceptively bright and airy before turning sappy and rich on the palate.
Bright and elegant yet plush and fruity, this delivers a nice fix of
Oregon Pinot flavors at the right price.
Educated
Guess Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005
$18.99/$15 by the case
A new Napa Valley project that is sure to take off, winemaker Barry
Gnekow is behind many other now-familiar California brands that offer
consistently high quality wine for a reasonable price. Their idea here
is pretty much the same: "producing unparalleled wine from the Napa
Valley at prices everyone can afford", and their first release is pretty
darn convincing. Their two primary grape sources are the Beckstoffer
Vineyards in Rutherford and the Napa Wine Company in Oakville, whose
fruit is 100% organically grown. Fruit from Beckstoffer Vineyards is in
high demand and the quality is obvious here. Long on the palate with
that indefinable yet irresistible Napa Cab quality, this is plenty rich,
but balanced, complex and complete. It doesn't overpower to impress, it
doesn't need to, it's just really good wine and it knows it. With
classic brambly dark fruit and elegant shadings of lightly toasted oak,
this tastes like a much more expensive wine. We tried it next to a $60
big-name Napa Cab (which will remain nameless) and frankly, we clearly
preferred it. Are we crazy? Come down and let us know.
Lemelson
Pinot Noir Thea's Selection 2006
$36.99/$29.60 by the case.
Another one of our favorites from the Memorial Day slogfest, this
jumped out as an all-around crowd pleaser. Lemelson has consistently
done a great job with this bottling, and here's the best example yet.
Wines like Thea's make a compelling argument for blends vs. single
vineyards, as it is easily greater than the sum of its parts. With fruit
sourced from all their vineyards, a little of this and a little of that
combine to produce a complex balanced whole. Beautiful aromatics reveal
a beguiling spiciness and the palate is open-knit, juicy and inviting.
There's enough structure to provide depth and enough acidity to keep it
lively, while the tangy dark cherry and vibrant boysenberry fruit
caresses the palate and heads toward a seamless finish. I'm making
myself thirsty, gotta go.
Lemelson single-vineyards (limited):
We also have a small amount of the fantastic single-vineyard
bottings available: Meyer $48.99, Stermer $48.99 and Jerome $57.99.
Whitehaven
Sauvignon Blanc 2007
$15.99/$12.80 by the case
By mid-summer, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc sales are as hot and steady
as the great yellow orb in the sky. Every year this seems to catch us by
surprise, but shouldn't of course; once the heat settles in, the zesty
refreshment that it offers is a perfect way to kick off a long warm
summer evening. By now the necessary deliberations have started: whose
is the best this year, what are your favorites, etc. We have plenty of
promising candidates, but so far this year, the Whitehaven has been a
favorite and with good reason. It offers all the desired flash and jazz
without forgetting to add an ample dose of fleshy tropical fruit and
even a tempering delicate touch on the finish.
Domaine
de L'Hortus Rosé Coteaux du Languedoc 2007
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
Every summer brings a new favorite pink. Sure there are the classics,
the standbys, the nostalgic picks, and they can all satisfy unless
somehow they're totally screwed up. So far this summer, the classic
nostalgic standby L'Hortus is one to beat. Brought in by specialty
importer Beaune Imports, the L'Hortus was a shining light years ago when
you could hardly give rosé away, and converted many a Portlander to the
Pink. Sometimes richer, sometimes lighter, it always delivers and this
year it positively sings. Lighter than the last edition, it offers more
floral stony notes to accompany the plump yet delicate berry fruit.
Vibrant and pure, it captures the essence of rosé perfectly.
Las
Rocas Garnacha Rosado 2007
$11.99/$9.60 by the case
Continuing the thread on rosé, of course everyone has their own style
preference. While we love the L'Hortus for its lively delicate style, if
you prefer your pinks a little fuller and richer, then you can't go
wrong with this. We sell plenty of the Las Rocas old-vine Grenache, a
terrific bargain, and this is in the same quality range. Spicy, dry and
full-flavored, it's rich without being heavy or overly fruity, yet dry
and hearty enough without seeming muddled. There are many good rosés,
but when one rises above the others, it's obvious and this is one of
them.
Small
Vineyards Direct Import Arrivals
Many of you are familiar with Small Vineyards, one of Portland's
favorite Italian importers. Tom Kelly and friends work with tiny
estates, mostly family-run and many organic, who produce wines of
character and personality. Twice a year they offer a direct import
opportunity on wines whose production is too small to carry year-round,
even for this "small" importer. We sent out an e-mail offer in March but
if you missed out, we ordered extra of our favorites.
Poderi
Elia Barbera d'Alba 2004
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
Another lovely Barbera from the wonderful 2004 vintage, this is a
worthy successor to the 2004 Vietti Barbera, last summer's runaway hit
that has been sold out for months. Like Vietti, Poderi Elia deftly
straddles the divide between the so-called modern and traditional
styles; modern in that his wines offer rich luscious texture and soft
rounded tannins, traditional in that the purity of the fruit is not
compromised, with no overt oakiness or over-ripe flavors. This bottling
is juicy and bright with a yin-yang seesaw of tangy cranberry and
intense blackberry liqueur-like fruit, notes of licorice candy and mocha
with gently gripping tannins on the finish. Made from vines that are
nearly 90 years old, this has plenty of depth to back up the sexy
upfront fruit.
Martorana
Colonna 2006 (Sicily)
$13.50/$10.80 by the case
One of the best southern Italian reds we've had lately (especially
given the price), this hearty Sicilian captures the flavors of the
Mediterranean beautifully: the sun-drenched fruit, Moroccan spices, and
deep sauvage mineral earthiness combine to create a little powerhouse of
a wine. At once both taut and sappy, layered and open-knit, the dark
berry fruit is lush yet chewy and redolent of exotic spice and dried
fruit. You can almost picture the fruit growing in the oceanfront
vineyard: sea breezes from the south rippling the wild herbs as the sun
beats down.
Marchetti
Later Harvest Verdicchio 2007
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
This turned out to be one the favorites from last year's offer, and we
sold out well before we expected. Many of you may be familiar with his
"regular" Verdicchio from the Marche, a deliciously crisp and clean
white in its irregular-shaped bottle adorned with a picture of
Botticelli's Venus. The grapes for this tiny bottling spend an extra
month on the vine, just long enough to gain richness and more fruit
concentration but without making it a "sweet" wine. Reminiscent of
Alsatian whites with notes of baking spices, creamed honey and ripe
pear, this is quite rich and structured compared to most Italian whites
but retains a sense of balance and finishes clean and dry. Fantastic
Italian white for the money.
Perazzeta
Sara Bianco Maremma 2007
$10.99/$8.80 by the case
From the estate who produces the year-round favorite "Rita" Sangiovese,
this unique white blend is a wonderful surprise. Made from two classic
Tuscan varietals, Trebbiano and Malvasia, and two classic French
varietals, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, the result is a
Starburst-like explosion of flowers and fruit. With notes of lemon curd,
orange blossom, fresh grapes, mango, dried pineapple, and even sage,
there's plenty of flavors to make you reach for another glass. Rich,
almost opulent in texture yet balanced by lively acidity, this is a
great choice for Italian white drinkers looking for something new. Only
250 cases produced. $10.99
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August/September 2008
Wine
Olympic Gold Medal Winners
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2006
$47.99/$38.40 by the case
Here's a blockbuster Pinot Noir with an established name, but a whole
new story. Previous owners started the vineyard in the Eola Hills circa
1988 and made some powerful, memorable wines in the late 1990s/early
2000s before selling in 2005. The new owners are serious about making
world-class Pinot and wisely brought in Maggie Harrison as the fourth
partner, director and winemaker. Maggie worked with Manfred Krankl at
ultra-cult California winery Sine Qua Non for 10 years as assistant
winemaker and clearly learned a lot. They sold off the 2005 vintage in
bulk and instead focused on expanding and refurbishing the vineyard; in
2006 they were ready to roll. This 2006 includes grapes mostly from the
Estate as well as Shea vineyard (Sine Qua Non made award-winning Shea
Vineyard Pinot Noir; Maggie was more than familiar with the fruit). The
result showcases the intensity, complexity and power of the Antica Terra
site bolstered by the rich flavor-filled Shea fruit, all marked by a
balance and finesse that sings of the Sine Qua Non heritage. Spicy
earthy fruit aromas rise from the glass, followed by sappy and ripe dark
cherry and raspberry, orange zest, hints of cinnamon, hazelnutty toast
and more. The wine is big, but never heavy, as ripe tannins and
underlying acidity keep it lively, propelling you into a long finish.
This is one of the best 2006 Oregon Pinots we've had to date. A
must-try.
Owen Roe Abbot's Table 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
The crack is back! Probably our best-selling wine each year, we even
gave it a nickname worthy of its addictive effect on customers, many of
whom have been calling for months and checking on the arrival date. Why
the popularity? For starters, a crazily extensive blend which means more
complexity. Next, a personality that changes each year with the usage
and percentage of each grape variety. Always rich, soft and juicy,
there's a depth and grip that adds punch to go with the elegant touch.
Best of all, it's a wine that over-delivers for the reasonable price -
and everyone loves a great deal. This year's blend is juicy, spicy and a
touch brighter than the 2006. The Sangiovese/Merlot/Zin brings fruit and
texture, Cab Franc adds swirling aromatics, while the Rhone-inspired
Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault trio brings spice and exotic flavors to the
party. This year's mix: 22% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 20% Zinfandel, 15%
Cab Franc, 7% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 3% Cinsault, 3% Malbec, 3% Petite
Sirah, 1% Pinot Noir.
Christoffel-Prum Riesling Auslese
Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1992
$23.99/$19 by the case
The Urziger Wurzgarten 1992 sold out in May so quickly that our inside
man Ewald went back to the well, bringing back this quarry with a big
smile on his face. For those of you lucky enough to nab some in May, you
know what a treat you're in for. For those who just missed it, here's
another chance. Again insanely priced, this sixteen-year old beauty is
coming straight from Kajo's cool cellars in Urzig, a stone's throw from
the banks of the Mosel River, where it has been aging peacefully and
exceedingly gracefully. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is one of the Mosel's top
vineyards (considered the best by many, the subject of endless arguing
among Riesling fans) and its pedigree is obvious. With a touch more
underlying power than the Wurzgarten, this also boasts deep minerality
and classic petrol aromas to complement the ripe peach and lemon curd
flavors. As with the Wurzgarten, the original high levels of sugar have
melted into a honeyed creaminess with hardly a whisper of actual
sweetness. A rockingly cool wine for the money, a wine to get excited
about.
Dusky Goose Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006
$59.99/$47.99 by the case.
The Goose is loose...almost anyway. If you couldn't make it to our
Dundee Hills tasting to get a nip of the Goose, we've got more coming
soon. A crowd favorite due to its sexy profile, polished pretty Pinot
flavors and judicious use of oak, this is made by Lynn Penner-Ash from
Goldschmidt vineyard and Rambouillet vineyard fruit. One of the biggest
Pinot hits of the last two vintages, the 2006 keeps it rolling. Limited
production=limited availability.
Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône 2006
$21.99/$17.50 by the case
Like clockwork August brings two of our best-selling reds for the year,
the above-mentioned Abbot's Table and this. Legendary from 1998 to 2001,
the excitement was sadly cut short by a fatal car accident involving the
winemaker in 2001, yet his widow vowed to carry on. The 2005 was a
thrilling return to the heyday and this newly-released 2006 shows the
trend continuing. As in days of old, this offers a seductive blend of
authentic Rhône flavors and New World succulence, over-delivering on
quality, complexity and richness. Texturally lush and opulent and loaded
with flavors of roasted wild berry fruit and kirsch, the peppery spice,
grilled meat, and herbes de Provence aromatics should send you out to
fire up the grill. As Parker notes, this tastes like the essence of
Provence.
Easton Zinfandel Amador County 2006
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Summer isn't complete without a casual party BBQ paired with bold zesty
wines. Cliché or not, Zin marries extremely well with BBQ flavors and
this Easton has been a favorite all summer. Rich sappy and toasty
enough, the wild blueberry fruit and ripe boysenberry flavors don't go
overboard, and there's enough of that Amador acidity and liveliness to
balance it all out.
"Other" Whites You Gotta Gotta Try
Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay = a white wine rut. It's time to
explore varietals that are complex, delicious and bursting with
personality, yet remain under-appreciated. Here are five favorite finds
under $20 that will expand your horizons.
Le "G" de Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc Sec 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
This is a stunner: Rich, full of flavor, perfectly-balanced and with a
finish that won't stop. Wanna know why? It's the dry wine from a top
Sauternes producer, made from grapes which don't end up in $100-plus
bottles of dessert wine. 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillion, it
ferments in used Sauternes barrels that add creaminess. Bright fresh
flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, lemon, honey and nuts dance on your
tastebuds, while brisk minerality and a mouth-coating zestiness stop you
in your tracks. Grilled scallops or crab, any fish, roast chicken -
bingo!
Schmitges Grauschiefer Riesling Dry 2007
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
Think all German Rieslings are sweet? No, no, no! Fact: dry ones taste
less sweet than most Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Andreas Schmitges was
just here and blew us away with the clean flavors, intensity and balance
of his wines - as were customers who snapped up all the wine on the spot
. This bottling is named for gray slate, which gives the wine its flinty
minerality and smooth, lively texture. Add lemon peel, pear, apple,
fragrant peach and spice and you have hands-down our best dry Riesling
under $20.
Biggio-Hamina Pinot Blanc 2007
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Similar to Pinot Gris, but a bit lighter, crisper and more focused,
Oregon Pinot Blanc offers a delicious alternative. Tood Hamina, formerly
at Patton Valley and Maysara, crafts one of our favorites. Brimming with
spicy aromas, pear and lemon with hints of white peach and honeydew, the
silky medium-weight mouth-feel is lifted by bright acidity, delivering a
clean, fresh and tasty impression. It'll shine with everything from apps
to entrees.
Dom. De La Tailles Aux Loups Vouvray Sec
Les Caburoches 2006
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
Jacky Blot's Chenin Blancs from the heart of the Loire Valley are
perfect matches for cheese, fresh summer pastas (tomatoes!) and seafood
(salmon!). Les Caburoches boasts 30+ year-old vines in clay-limestone
soil that deliver a dry wine with distinctive earthy minerality and
classic Chenin flavors of lemon/lime, apricot, melon, fresh green herbs
and a touch of anise. Complex and elegant, yet zippy and refreshing, dry
Chenin Blanc is a discovery you need to make.
Granzaban Albarino 2006
$10.50/$8.40 by the case
Originally $18, a last minute switcheroo deal makes this just $10.50! We
were going to write it up at $18, at this price, it can't be beat. See
Case of the Month entry below for more comments.
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October
2008
Some NEW
Screaming Deals..
Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition 2006
Regular
$39.99 - Special buy $32.99
Sale $27.99 or only $26.40 in any mixed case!
We got a great deal on this killer Rhone from the superb 2006
vintage. Chateauneuf du Pape this good for only $28? Come on down!
Steven Tanzer of the International Wine Cellar said "Dark red. Spicy,
floral-tinged bouquet evokes raspberry, garrigue, violet and smoky
minerals...Gains weight and sweetness on the broad, long finish. I
suspect this very attractive wine will drink well young." 89-91 pts.
Domaine Drouhin Laurene Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005
Regular $66.99
Sale $56.95 or only $53.60 in any mixed case.
Always one of the best of the vintage that keeps showing its quality 10
years or more down the road. The 2004 was stunning and 2005 is even
deeeper and packed with more flavor. Always balanced, elegant and pure.
Just released and limited as usual.
Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino 2002
Regular $44.99 - Special buy $36.99 by the case
Sale $31.45 or only $29.60 in any mixed case!
Ciacci is one of Montalcino's top producers (their 2001 riserva was
rated 98 points by Wine Spectator) and they made a lovely wine in 2002.
Understanding how that vintage was seen in the press, they lowered their
price (the 2001 was $60). Then the distributor offered a deal and now
its our turn! Tasting like true Brunello, yet drinkable right now, this
is all dark cherry, tobacco and spices in a modern fruit-driven style.
After tasting this, it's clear that 2002 wasn't bad for everyone.
Bruno Giacosa Barbera d'Alba 2005
Regular $29.99 Special buy $21.99
Sale $18.70 or only $17.60 in any mixed case.
End-of-vintage pricing brings this classy Italian from one of Piedmont's
epic vintners within range of casual pizza night. Pretty and elegant
with smoky cherry fruit and a lively yet silky texture, this sings
classic Piedmont Barbera. Limited availability.
No Pigs in
Lipstick Around Here
St. Innocent Pinot Noir Seven Springs/Anden Vineyard 2006
$41.99/$33.60 by the case
Fall brings the release of many of our favorite Oregon Pinots, but sadly
this year the excitement is bittersweet: 2006 was the last vintage for
two of our favorite standbys, St. I's Seven Springs and Anden. St.
Innocent the winery is alive and well but they (along with other
unsuspecting winemakers) were abruptly cut out of future contracts with
these vineyards after the 2006 vintage. No room for the full story here
but these two wines are symbols of a shift in the Oregon wine world that
will be easier to recognize 10-15 years from now. Enough with the
laments already, how do they taste? St. I nailed their 2006 spring
releases, same story here. The wines show their respective terroir as
always: Seven Springs is lovely and inviting with a silky taut texture
and alluring red cherry fruit. Anden is darker and more powerful but
still offers a suave elegance to counter its bacon fat and spicy
wildness. When tasting these wines and sensing the terroir even in a
ripe vintage like '06, a saying came to mind that was ironically no
longer true: the more things change, the more they stay the same. The
taste from these vineyards, yes, but no longer from St. Innocent.
Cameron Arley's Leap Pinot Noir 2006
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
OK, on to happier subjects. Another shop favorite that comes and goes
quickly, Arley's is the secret weapon in Cameron's arsenal: a big step
up from the Dundee Hills bottling and accessible early both in taste and
price. It's comprised of younger-vine fruit from Abbey Ridge Vineyard
except for the odd barrel of old-vine Abbey fruit that John Paul
routinely adds to "pump it up". This is showing the characteristics of
the vintage, plumper and lusher than the 2005 with smoky dark cherry
fruit and just enough of that Cameron "funk" to keep it real. This,
being a Cameron Pinot Noir, will sell out quickly.
Castello di Verduno Barbaresco Faset 2001
$36.99/$29.60 by the case.
Here's an amazing deal on a rarity: a well-aged Barbaresco from a
classic vintage that is perfectly delicious right now, but will age
nicely for years. Faset is a hilltop vineyard next to the famed Asili
that is known for producing earthy and complex wines. This 2001 delivers
a nose full of roses, earth and bright fruit up top, followed by a
mouthful of smoky dark cherry, spicy plum, cinnamon, mushroom and dried
flowers that screams textbook Barbaresco. The elegant mouth-feel comes
courtesy of supple tannins buffered by sappy fruit that slowly unfurls
the delights within, culminating in a long intense finish. This is one
of the best Piedmont wines we've had for the price in a long, long time.
Amiot B.G.O. Chardonnay 2005
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
A late-arriving white Burgundy from the heralded 2005 vintage that
captures the essence of the grape and vintage beautifully. Amiot is a
highly-respected small family domaine in Chassagne and this has all the
signs of hand-crafted Burgundy. Add the richness of the 2005 vintage and
some time in bottle and yowser, what a find! An excellent example of how
French Chardonnay can be so captivating, this offers loads of nuanced
flavors (toasted nuts, smoky grilled bread, spiced apples, hints of
tropical fruits) but is balanced and clean, finishing with a dry
citrus-y snap. With a profile not unlike a Chassagne-Montrachet, this
goes head to head with wines twice the price.
Roots Klee Pinot Noir Wilamette Valley 2007
$18.50/$14.80 by the case.
Aha! We caught this one in time. Klee is the second label of Roots
winery and Chris Berg does such a good job of it and makes so little, it
always seems to sell out before we can get it in the newsletter. The
2007 was just released and again offers plenty of rich Pinot Noir fruit
for not much money. Like most second labels, this is declassified wine
from barrels that don't fit into his single-vineyard program; otherwise
the quality and winemaking talent are the same. Juicy, fresh, and
polished, the dark cherry fruit is rich and long on the palate and is
livened up by high-toned raspberry and spice notes that linger on the
clean finish.
Juan Gil Monastrell Jumilla 2006
$16.99/$13.60 by the case.
Another shop favorite that amazingly has escaped newsletter attention,
its time has come. If you don't recognize the snazzy platinum label,
you're in for a surprise. 100% Monastrell from 40-year old vines, this
is a real mouthful of wine: dark meaty and spicy, with freshly-tilled
soil, graphite, and roasted black fruits layered one on top of the
other, making for quite the heady mix. Structured and firm, it takes to
aging like a fish to water but pair it with hearty dishes now and watch
it turn opulent and sappy sexy before your eyes. One of the great values
of Spain.
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November 2008
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December 2008
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