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on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have
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please check with us for current pricing and availability.
January/February 2010
New Deals for a New Decade
Stag's Leap Winery Petite Sirah Napa Valley 2006
Regularly $40, while it lasts $23.99/$19.20 case.
Stags' Leap Winery Merlot Napa Valley 2006
Regularly $32, while it lasts $17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Happy New Year! That is what the folks at Stags' Leap Winery want for
you. So, they offered up this short-lived year-end deal with blow-out
pricing on some Napa Valley classics. A grand old name, the "jumping
stag" label first appeared in 1893 (!) and has been a leading property
since the 1970s. Looking to blast out some inventory before 2010
started, they offered and we leapt at the chance (bad pun alert!). 2006
was a superb vintage for Napa; a late harvest gave the wines
concentration and complexity. The Petite Sirah is among Napa's best and
is often "restaurant only." Dense and dark with ripe blackberry and
marionberry, there's shades of cocoa, vanilla oak, and leathery spice
notes embedded in the concentrated core of fruit. The Merlot is classic
southern Napa: medium-weight and juicy with zesty wild red berry, dusty
plum and mild oaky vanilla crème notes. Fresh bright and elegantly
structured, it's such a pretty Merlot, and deserves kudos for not trying
to be Cabernet. Both killer deals, both in limited supply.
Cottonwood Marina Piper Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006
Regularly $25, now $19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Here's a Pinot bottling that has been a go-to GWB favorite for
several years running. Winemaker Aaron Lieberman allows his wines time
to develop in bottle; the result is this older-vintage beauty that's
drinking great right now. We just tasted it again and yum! Price drop to
$20? Double yum deal!! Round, seamless and supple, the lively cherry and
tangy raspberry/boysenberry fruit is complemented by mild tobacco and
spicy savory herb notes, with floating high-toned aromatics. Offering
the plush ripeness of the 2006 vintage yet retaining an airy grace, this
is lovely Pinot Noir bordering on the sexy. Show me what ya got, hot
stuff!
Juan Gil Monastrell Jumilla 2006
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
This shop favorite is a perfect winter red: hearty and deeply
satisfying, versatile enough to pair with an array of dishes and
inexpensive enough to drink frequently as you listen to the rain
dripping on your roof. (It even has a classy expensive-looking label,
making it easy to jazz up your post-holiday décor). Boasting 90+ point
reviews in the major wine mags and a spot on the coveted Wine Spectator
Top 100, the glowing reviews read something like this: "With superb
aromatics of wood smoke, damp earth, violets, and blueberry pie, this is
layered, succulent, and long" (Parker). "This polished red shows black
cherry, licorice, mineral and tobacco notes, harmonious and deep,
supported by firm tannins. Medium-bodied, well-integrated and stylish"
(Spectator). Not tons of it left, but enough for you to grab a case.
Vietti Barbera d'Asti 2007
$18.99/$15 by the case
Vietti is a Barbera master, with a variety of bottlings clear up to $80.
While all of them are compelling, his basic d'Asti bottling may be the
best deal, as it transcends its appellation and modest price. Made from
tiny yields, this is densely packed and a joy to drink as it opens up
unfolding a wealth of flavors. The alluring nose urges you to continue:
blackberry, spiced mincemeat, black licorice and damp earth. The
excitement on the palate builds slowly; at first the fruit is red and
bright, lightly plush. Slowly it gets darker, chewier and more serious,
before see-sawing back into red and bright territory. It's like getting
two different wines for the price of one! Some wines offer immediate
pleasure but evolve little in the glass; others take time to come alive
yet provide a richer drinking experience. This is one of those wines.
Couroulu Vacqueyras 2007
$21.99/$17.60 by the case.
Just when I was starting to get sad thinking how most of the great
2007 Rhônes were behind us, this sporadically-available gem arrived.
Portland doesn't see it every vintage (nor get much when it does appear)
but when we have it, a lot of people get happy. Couroulu is a small
producer making wine in the traditional style, a perfect foil for the
lively fruit-driven bounty of the '07 vintage. Deep and long, the
Provençal aromatics immediately draw you in, with anise, lavender,
floral iris and peppery spice. The fruit is black and chewy with
highlights of tangy red berry. Offering both a slight meaty funkiness
and an appealing polished elegance reminiscent of Chateauneuf, we're
thrilled to see this old friend again.
Gilbert Cellars Allobroges Columbia Valley 2006
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
If just saying the name makes you feel mystical, wait until you taste
it. This Columbia Valley Rhône blend is named after a group of Celtic
people who inhabited the Rhône Valley during the Roman Empire and
apparently made killer red wine. Beside the cool name, this wine
actually tastes like a Rhône red, a claim many Washington wines aspire
to but fall short. With 60% Syrah, 22% Grenache, and 18% Mourvedre,
black fruit flavors dominate, taut and precise yet rich and long on the
palate. Offering a northern Rhône meatiness mixed with pretty herbal and
floral spice aromatics, it is one of the best examples we can think of
which tastes both of the old world and the new.
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March 2010
This Winter's Gold Medal Winners
Amatorius Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 2006
$22.99/$18.40 by the case.
"Deal-o-Rama" was the pitch to us. A private-label deal that didn't make
it far and is looking for a good home, we're able to offer this for a
ridiculously low price. Made by Josh Bergstrom from Shea Vineyard fruit
from the opulent 2006 vintage for just 23 bucks, need we say more? Well,
unsurprisingly it tastes like you would expect a Bergstrom Shea 2006 to
taste: a big juicy flavor-packed wine that starts with sultry
cinnamon-tinged cherry aromatics before turning dark and smoky on the
palate. Ripe rich and expansive, its pedigree is clear. There seem to be
more Pinot Noir deals out there lately but nothing like this. Limited
availability but hopefully enough for you to get some.
Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah Columbia Valley
2008
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
A new vintage of this perennial favorite, this once again offers a
wealth of complexity finely embedded in a luxuriously-textured frame.
Surprisingly silky and elegant for such a powerful wine, the flavors are
pure and lively, a mouthful of fresh marionberries and blackberries,
with notes of violets, graham crackers and balsamic. A wash of ripe
tannins on the finish adds dimension and depth. Not yet revealing all
its charms (it actually drank better the next day after being opened),
this may be even better than I think.
Evening Land Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
Longtime fans of the Seven Springs Vineyard were dismayed a few years
back when the owner stopped selling fruit to local wineries who had been
producing single vineyard bottlings, opting instead to lease the entire
vineyard to an "outside entity." Rumors of bad intentions by these
"outsiders" were overblown and now that the dust has settled, guess
what? There's exciting things going on there and it shows in the wine.
The vineyard is considered one of Oregon's best (that's why Evening Land
wanted it) but it needed work. After ripping out phylloxera-infested
vines, they are replanting at a higher density, re-trellising and
converting the whole vineyard to bio-dynamic farming.
The consulting winemaker is none other than Dominique Lafon, an
eyebrow-raising legend from Burgundy whose Meursault bottlings are an
altar unto themselves for white Burg fans. The incredible care now being
taken in the vineyard coupled with such amazing winemaking talent
promises great wines to come, and it's an exciting beginning.
This "blue label" bottling, their first release from 2008, is mostly
Seven Springs fruit with a small amount acquired from "a few friends".
Made in a relatively drink-now style ("pour ma gueule" as Dominique puts
it, meaning for my gullet and soon), this is delicious, fresh and lively
with pretty perfume aromatics and silky upfront fruit. With a fine-boned
structure and detailed complexity lurking underneath the seemingly
simple pretty fruit, this is seriously nice wine for anyone's gullet.
Scavino Rosso (Piedmont) 2007
$12.99/$10.40 by the case
A distributor switch makes this "Super Piedmont" an ever better buy than
before. Scavino is a great Barolo producer, the winemakers true masters
of their craft. But Barolo is hardly a daily drinker in style or price.
Barbera and Dolcetto work, but a blend of these two along with Nebbiolo
can be much more interesting. This basic rosso has for years been a hit
with Piedmont fans; "Scavino for the people" as our old sales rep used
to say, suggesting A) it was affordable and B) it gave one the
opportunity to taste some of the Scavino magic. The rabbit in the hat is
that it's straightforward and versatile enough to pair with many a meal
yet sneakily complex, making it an excellent choice night after night.
The aromatics conjure pleasant dining memories: roses and tobacco,
cherry coke, spicy Dr. Pepper. On the palate it's a silky smooth surface
gliding above a rich base of dark yet tangy plum and the finish offers
sweet tannins, present enough to work with food, soft enough for barroom
drinking.
Louis Moreau Chablis Vaulignot ler Cru
2007
$25.99/$20.80 by the case
Utterly charming and frustratingly so. The 2007 vintage has thrown so
many good white Burgundies our way, there's simply not enough time to
drink them all. Vaulignot is a tiny, lesser-known premier cru (no one
seems to know where it is), hence the KILLER price for premier cru
Burgundy from a great vintage. Also, quite honestly, it tasted better
right now than Moreau's Grand Cru wines which need some time. A big step
up from the already-delicious village bottling yet not so demanding as
to need years of aging, ah yes, that's the spot. Traditional non-oak
vinification keeps the fruit flavors pure and allows the minerality of
the famous Kimmeridgian soil to shine through - the essence of classic
Chablis, and the original reason why Chardonnay is planted all over the
earth. Come home to Mama.
Saldo Zinfandel 2008
$30.99/$24.80 by the case
The second vintage of cult winery Orin Swift's Zinfandel just hit the
shelf and although they made more than last year, we don't expect it to
be around for long (last year it sold through in less than a month).
Saldo is a reference to a Spanish term meaning "from here and there"; in
search for his ideal blend, winemaker Dave Phinney sourced from great
vineyards across multiple appellations including Sonoma, Napa, Amador,
Mendocino, and Contra Costa counties. The hot 2008 vintage was perfect
for Zinfandel. The fruit is ripe and lush, a mixed berry coulis
punctuated by peppery briary spice and dark chocolate. Seamless and
pillow-y soft, the masses of fruit are held together by a weave of
balancing acidity.
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April 2010
Owen
Roe Deals...
It's the end of the 2008 vintage for these two Portland favorites and
our friends at Owen Roe are pouring on the excitement with a last-minute
deal. Not much left and already starting to fly at these friend-making
prices, there's never been a better time to stock up on these
irresistible catnip-like northwest reds.
Abbot's Table 2008
Now just $17.99/$14.40 by the case. (Was $19.99)
Portland's favorite addictively delicious Northwest red (we lovingly
call it The Crack) is a knockout this vintage. Already displaying its
come-hither aromatic charm and seductively supple mouth-feel, the
excitement really kicks in when you realize that it is just going to get
better. These guys are masterful blenders, and a huge part of the
Abbot's Table allure is the myriad flavors and layers your taste buds
can access. The aromatics alone are a delight: floral violet and rose
mixed with crushed black raspberry and cured tobacco. On the palate it's
silky and lusciously vibrant: the flavors are dark yet tangy with
marionberry and blueberry giving lift to the spicy dusty blackberry bass
notes below. Shades of caramel and toast round out the powerful finish.
No surprise, but the Owen Roe crew has crafted an incredibly sexy wine
whose rich and sappy fruit belies the elegance and balance woven in. 24%
Zinfandel, 22% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 10%
Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Blaufrankish, and 4% Malbec.
Sinister Hand Columbia Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case (Was $23.99)
Sultry and succulent as ever, this 2008 Rhône-inspired blend is probably
the closest one yet to David O'Reilly's original goal- a NW red
reminiscent of Châteauneuf du Pape. A chameleon of a wine (the raison
d'être of most blends) with intoxicating aromatics of sweet strawberry
and floral spice and a mouth-feel that alternates between taut chewy
black fruit and incredibly supple and sensual red berry. A beautiful
marriage between richness and power with elegance and suavity. It's the
end of the 2008 vintage for these two Portland favorites and our friends
at Owen Roe are pouring on the excitement with a last-minute deal. Not
much left and already starting to fly at these friend-making prices,
there's never been a better time to stock up on these irresistible
catnip-like northwest reds.
A Six-Pack of Goodness
El Corazon First Crush Cabernet Franc 2008
$25.99/$20.80 by the case
(Labeling Delay - Arrives April 8)
The much-anticipated new vintage of last year's stealth double hit (two
different releases, same wine), this again will probably play its role
as a heartbreaker. Every bit as sensational as the 2007 but even more
limited since there were only a mere 48 cases made - it won't be around
long. Reminiscent of October's release (which caused most of the buzz
since the May bottling sold out in a flash), this has a purity of fruit
and full-throttle freshness that fuels the wine from its heady juicy
aromatics to its long complex finish. Rich on the palate with dark berry
and concentrated cherry fruit and flashes of spicy mocha-tinged oak,
there's a wave of underlying liveliness that is the perfect foil to the
fleshy fruit.
El Corazon is the brainchild of Spencer Sievers, one of Walla Walla's
most talented young turks and his wines turned out to be one of our
favorite new finds of last year. Micro-production (48 cases here, 96
cases there) has kept him well below the radar but with wines like this,
he won't stay there long.
Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$44.99/$35.99 by the case
The Beaux Frères wines are always a benchmark of the vintage, a trusted
window into the highs (and potential lows) of any given year. Either
despite or because of near-peerless winemaking skill, the wines always
reflect the vintage. In our 13-year vertical a few years ago it was
amazing how each wine had its own distinct personality, considering
every vintage had the same fruit source and winemaking regimen.
With the excitement surrounding the 2008 vintage we were curious to see
what the Beaux Frères crew would show us, and unsurprisingly, they
showed us excellence. The Willamette Valley has the soaring aromatics
that many 2008s offer, but also delivers on the palate. Sparkling with
nervosity, the spicy raspberry fruit is seductive and pretty, with
layers of baking spice and savory aromatics. Silky-textured yet firm and
alive, the gentle tannins are just present enough to suggest firing up
the grill and throwing on half a fresh salmon.
Solaria Rosso di Montalcino 2004
$12.99/$10.40 by the case (Was Originally $25)
Here's a rare opportunity - a perfectly-aged Sangiovese from Montalcino
(basically baby Brunello), from one of the best vintages of the decade,
that drinks great right now... for a mere $13! The distributor is
"taking a price hit" to make room for the new vintage.
Proprietor/winemaker/vineyard manager Patrizia Cencioni has applied her
elegant touch to estate fruit and turned out a winner. No baby-faced
fruity Tuscan here!; this Rosso impeccably plays aromatic sweet cherry,
tangy spicy plum fruit and a hint of orange zest off the age-influenced
earthy flavors of leather, smoke, game and tobacco. Sealing the deal is
a silky smooth texture with juicy tannins on a mid-weight frame, topped
by a long, long complex finish.
Gran Oristan La Mancha Gran Reserva 1998
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
(Shipping Delay - Scheduled to Arrive April 7)
We're always amazed at what the Spaniards have hiding in their cellars.
Here is an 11-year-old wine that is still drinking beautifully, balanced
and complex, and costs a mere 17 bucks. How they manage to sit on
inventory for 10 years before selling it rather cheaply I still don't
understand. But we're sure happy that they do because while young
fruit-driven reds are plenty tasty, it is a pleasant change of pace to
sit down with a bottle like this.
Mellow, subtle, and complex, there is a wealth of secondary flavors
dancing about and an exquisite balance between earth, oak, fruit and
acid. The earth notes are dusty and ancient, the oak offers faded
vanilla and sandalwood spice, the fruit is desiccated and condensed, yet
the acidity is still fresh and alive giving the wine a graceful lift. We
have poured this in several tastings and every time the response is the
same: wow, that's a really cool old wine for only 17 bucks.
François Crochet Sancerre 2007
$23.99/$19.20 by the case
This was a lovely harbinger of spring one dreary winter day when a sip
suddenly suddenly transported us to the sunny banks of the Loire River
(complete with baguette and goat cheese crottin). The youthful François
Crochet spent time in New Zealand and was inspired to combine the
bracing limestone minerality and zingy lemon/lime notes of the classic
French style, with the aromatic grapefruit, light stone fruit and grassy
hues of the Kiwi version of Sauvignon Blanc. It's a splendid success:
fresh and vibrantly fruity, surprisingly rich and supple, but with
plenty of clean acidity and chalkiness to provide balance.
Felipe Rutini Malbec Mendoza 2005
$13.99/$11.20 by the case (Was originally $19)
One of Argentina's first wineries (1885!) Rutini sources grapes for this
bottling from their famous 50-year-old La Consulta vineyards high in the
Andes Mountains. The big winner at our recent Saturday Argentine Malbec
tasting, this is bold and flavorful, with racy dark spicy
raspberry/blackberry fruit and a touch of smoky oak and cocoa.
Creamy-textured and mellow, it displays an elegant side that was a nice
surprise. Equally at home as a nice solo glass 'o red or paired with a
full meal, it's yet another "it's gotta go" bargain: originally $19, now
much less.
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May 2010
New Under-the-Radar Gems
Portland's McKinlay Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
The spring-like charms of this tiny-production pinot sneaked up on us
during a recent tasting. Although available since late autumn, like many
2008s it was still tight a few months ago. We cracked a bottle not
expecting fireworks but were happily surprised. Matt Kinne has always
flown under the radar and so have his wines; McKinlay Vineyards has been
around since 1987, one of the second wave of pioneers, yet their annual
case production still hovers below 1000. While the simple label and
modest price might suggest that you keep looking, your first glass will
make you glad you didn't . Burgundian in style yet uniquely Oregon, this
is light bright and satisfying in a thirst-quenching sort of way. The
cherry fruit is smooth yet lively, fragrant with cranberry and classic
Pinot spice. A perfect late spring/summer-weight red, it offers much
more complexity and punch than rosé yet provides similar allure:
palate-refreshing acidity, bright jazzy flavors and thrilling purity of
fruit.
Syncline Subduction Red Columbia Valley 2008
$18.99/$15 by the case.
This "Rhone Ranger" of the Columbia Gorge has in recent years become one
of the area's most sought-after producers and is on many critics short
list of top Washington producers. Like McKinlay, they continue to fly
under the radar and may prefer it that way. Syncline and other nearby
wineries have turned the scenic hills around Lyle into the epicenter of
a burgeoning family-run, artisanal wine scene, with a bucolic pioneer
feel that's a far cry from more established and crowded wine regions.
While the 2007 Subduction Red never made the newsletter, we knew it was
something special when we had to reorder it weekly until it sold out.
The 2008 just landed and my my, what a tasty treat. "Tasty" is of course
relative, but this southern Rhone-style blend aims exactly for that.
It's bright, it's juicy, it's lush but most importantly, like all good
wines that are a pleasure to drink, it's balanced. The tangy freshness
of the flavors sends your tastebuds into overdrive while the plush
carpet of wild berry fruit and peppery spice provide a cushiony spot for
them to relax before the mouth starts a-watering again.
Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release Napa Valley 2005
$19.99/$15.99 by the case (Regular $30)
This is a quiet Californian gem that occasionally goes on deep sale and
when it does, it's a fun train to catch. We've worked with past vintages
and the response has always been great. And how can it not be when
you're getting a classic Napa Cabernet with the bulk of the fruit
sourced from the heart of the Rutherford Bench for only $20? Straddling
the line between old-school classy structure and an abundance of
oak-tinged fruit, the flavors run to dark cherry, plum and currant,
deftly draped over a gentle tannin frame. It's drinking great right now
as several years of bottle age have softened the tannins, lengthened the
finish and exposed the deeper complexity within.
Domaine du Poujol Proteus 2007
$15.99/$12.80 by case.
A Kermit Lynch mainstay, this Languedoc red has been quietly chugging
along for years providing daily drinking pleasure for those who cherish
the charmingly rustic country wines of southwestern France. The 2007
follows the same mold but it's sprinkled with a bit of 2007 vintage
magic dust that elevates it way beyond simple. Yes it has the dark spicy
fruit redolent of savory herbs and sun-baked earth and yes, it is still
a wee bit sauvage, but there is an elegance and completeness that has
been missing in years past. Long on the palate and saturated with
flavor, the Proteus captures a vinous snapshot of this storied region in
all its complexity and appealing simplicity.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
When most wine drinkers hear "southern Italian white" they think "yeah,
keep moving" or their mind just goes blank. Not familiar with the
varietals or flavors, they settle for something safe. Big mistake -
because this Falanghina is a stunner. We had it recently at Bar Mingo
and were quickly reminded how captivating it is in the hands of the
legendary Feudi winery. Exquisitely fragrant, the palate is round and
generous with tropical fruit and lemon curd flavors full of zingy
acidity and striking minerality. Fruit comes from vineyards in the
shadow of Mt.Vesuvius, whose eruptions have showered the area in
volcanic ash, creating a unique terroir. While Feudi's reds are the
benchmark for the region, the transparency of a white varietal like
Falanghina really lets the distinctive character shine.
The rain in Spain...
Valserrano Rioja Reserva 2004
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
A classically styled yet richly textured Reserva from a great vintage at
an all-of-a-sudden fantastic price, here's a great opportunity to load
up on a wine that offers immediate pleasure but clearly has the stuffing
to reward further cellaring. The cup that is my tasting notes runneth
over: wonderfully layered, awesome complexity and intensity; still so
youthful with bright cherry and smoky spicy cigar box aromatics followed
by dark raspberry and blueberry fruit on the palate. With a mild rustic
earthy component and the beginning of a waxy-textured aged note, there's
plenty to keep the palate interested glass after glass, bottle after
bottle.
Can Blau Montsant 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
An excellent spokeswine for the "other" Spain (the new, the
international style, the non-Tempranillo) this is proudly modern and
casually delicious while remaining balanced and still tasting Spanish.
Its more expensive reserve-level sibling Mas de Can Blau stole the show
at a recent blind tasting and this bottling offers many of the same
charms at less than half the price. A blend of Carignan, Syrah, and
Grenache from an appellation surrounding Priorat near Barcelona, Josh
Raynolds' 90-point review in Steve Tanzer's The International Wine
Cellar describes it nicely: "Sexy aromas of blueberry and boysenberry
compote are complemented by cinnamon and mace, along with a subtle smoky
undertone. Gains weight and richness with air, picking up notes of mocha
and candied flowers...Extremely attractive right now."
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June 2010
Let it Rain Wine, not Water!
White Rose Mercotti's Milieu Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007
$20.99/$16.80 by the case. Regular price $33!
Here's the first of two "buy-rated" Oregon Pinots, a gorgeous 2007 deal
from a celebrated vineyard. Perched high on a hill not far from Domaines
Drouhin and Serene, White Rose is one of the Dundee Hills most
interesting sites. Typically offering a heady mix of wildflowers,
high-toned red fruits, brambly spice and a fleeting mild funk, this type
of vineyard cries out for a year like 2007 where the transparency of the
vintage allows all that complexity to shine through. The winery is
finally changing their, um, unique labels, hence the price drop. Wary
after tasting too many recent "deals" and finding them uninspiring, we
were cautious, but two sips in we all agreed: no question, this is the
real deal. With classic White Rose floral notes, the fragrant red fruit
is silky smooth and elegant and the exquisite aromatics scream Dundee
Hills: baking spices, rhubarb, bright cherry, and notes of underbrush.
Open-knit and seductive, this is drinking great now.
J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2008
$22.99/$18.40 by the case.
Looking for some brawn in your Pinot? Look no further. With all the
opulent fruit and structure characteristic of the 2008 vintage, this is
yet another J. Christopher Pinot that over-delivers for the money.
Packed with flavor, the fruit is dark and spicy, the flavors long and
deep and the texture commands your attention until it gets joyfully
tangled up in the grippy tannins on the finish. Tangy plum and black
cherry are joined by notes of cured tobacco and peppery spice. Although
already impressive, the excitement lies ahead: there's so much going on
beneath the cloak of dense fruit, this will only get better and better.
Domaine La Guicharde Côtes du Rhône-Villages
Massif d'Uchaux Cuvée Genest 2007
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
A late arrival Rhône value that lucky for us missed the early boat as it
now will provide excellent drinking all summer at a whizbang price.
Located west of Cairanne and Rasteau, Massif d'Uchaux received its
villages appellation status only in 2005. Whether due to this latecomer
arrival or direct import savings, this is wickedly cheap for a villages
appellation especially when it is so saturated with flavor. A 50/50
blend of Grenache and Syrah, it offers the best of both: round fleshy
fruit with the vibrancy typical of 2007, with loads of spice (thyme,
anise, cracked pepper) and a hearty yet toothsome texture. A small
family domaine that is a year away from organic certification, the
little wine they produce gets noticed in France; this bottling received
2 stars (out of 3, most wines reviewed receive 1 or zero stars) in
France's prestigious Guide Hachettes, which translates as "vin
remarquable". Remarkable indeed.
Vincent Girardin Emotion de Terroirs Chardonnay 2006
$13.50/$10.80 by the case. Regularly $30!
A screaming deal in white Burgundy, this is one of those side projects
that starts with a lot of enthusiasm but ends up falling through the
cracks (that's why it's cheap!). Girardin is a prolific winemaker who
makes an impressive range of red and white up and down Burgundy's spine.
The offspring of a terroir-focused project with a group of sommeliers,
this bottling is 100% Côte de Beaune fruit and the provenance and
winemaking talent is clear. Rich for Burgundy (but very elegant and
restrained compared to California), it's round and creamy with flavor
pops of pain grillé, lemon cream, and gorgeous floral spices. 2006 is a
fruit-forward vintage and after a couple years in bottle this is
drinking beautifully. Somewhat limited as we bought the last of it from
the distributor.
Rock Horse Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
The best buy in under-$20 Northwest Cab we have had for a long time,
this is a blend of two notable vineyards (Elephant Mountain in Yakima,
Hillside in Columbia) from the stellar 2007 vintage. Declassified from
Natalie's Estate single vineyard wines, this was juice destined for $30+
bottlings before re-routing. Rigorous in his barrel selection for the
flagship wines, Boyd Teegarden produces this as a "let's-be-friends"
intro to his winery. Pure Cabernet flavors of red currant and dark berry
are accented by vanilla toast and sandalwood spice from the oak. The
texture reminded me of taffy, firm yet pliant, as it pulls your taste
buds toward the long smooth finish. No mass-produced anonymous juice,
this has character and a sense of place. Only 117 cases made
New Crop of Northwest Summer Whites
J. Christopher Cristo Misto 2009
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Portland's favorite local Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Gris blend is back and
rocking as usual. Why do we write it up year after year? It's delicious,
there's nothing else like it, and it always sells out quickly - so best
to get the word out. Showcasing the racy vibrancy of Jay's Sauvignon
Blanc tempered by fleshy peachy notes, this blasts off with a citrusy
intensity before plumping out on the expansive finish. Vinous, crackling
with life and fresh as the morning dew, stocking up on this has become
for many a much-anticipated rite of summer in Oregon.
Walter Scott Deux Blancs Willamette V. '09
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
From the dynamic wine duo Ken Pahlow and Erica Landon comes this
voluptuous little blanc, a sexy summer sipper that has "lazy porch
drinking" written all over it. A blend of 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot
Gris, this is fleshy and succulent and mimics the joy of biting into a
ripe (or even poached) pear: juice dripping from chin, the intensity of
precise flavors washing over me. Throw in mild notes of peach and green
apple and a lightly lemony finish and you've got an irresistibly juicy
quaffer that will work equally well with spicy Asian takeout, grilled
fish or maybe even a bowl of maraschino cherries.
Abacela Albarino Umqua Valley 2009
$18.99/$15 by the case
Southern Oregon's Iberian outpost strikes again with another fantastic
bottling of this traditional Spanish white varietal. Abacela is best
known for being the first to plant Tempranillo in the Northwest but
lately it seems customers can't get enough of this, its white
counterpart. Seemingly more delicious each new vintage, it's one of
Oregon's most compelling white wines. While the flavors are abundant,
their expression is elegantly restrained. Floral but barely; cool saline
mineral notes are invigorating but don't overpower; almonds, yes, but
you couldn't call it nutty; the barely ripe peach is deftly balanced by
a shaving of lemon zest. A wine that intrigues as it refreshes, a feat
not easily pulled off.
NW Vine Project Pinot Gris 2009
$9.99/$7.99 by the case
Finally, some punchy party Gris at a party price. NW Vine Project is a
collection of wines from different winemakers blah blah...listen, forget
that. All you need to know is that this delivers a blast of fleshy
pear/melon fruit and zesty spice that will make even the worst hay fever
sufferer notice. Lushly flirtatious, bordering on promiscuous, this says
"fun" from first whiff to last sip, perfect for all kinds of occasions.
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July 2010
Odds-on Favorites for Your Own "World Cup"
Walla Walla Vintners Sagemoor Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
$39.99/$31.99 by the case.
This was the standout among a slew of good wines tasted last week in
Walla Walla during a quick visit to see what was new. A serious
Bordeaux-style cuvée from a great vintage that's powerful and
well-balanced, the Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet perfectly nails why the
Walla Walla Vintners crew has such a great reputation for their blending
skills. Soaring cherry and dark raspberry floral aromatics lure you into
a velvety yet intense mouthful of sappy dark cherry, blackberry and
spicy plum with a perfect hint of light herbs, dark chocolate, vanilla
and oak that cradles the fruit without overpowering it. Then the wine
blasts off with shocking depth and power into a long complex finish. Why
so good? Co-owner/winemaker Gordy Venneri explained that these vines
date to 1972 (38 years old!). The fruit was taken initially taken by
Leonetti until 1999, when Walla Walla Vintners picked up the lease. Some
of the oldest Cabernet vines in Washington, great vintage, $40? Come on
down!
Helix Pomatia Columbia Valley 2006
$15.99/$12.75 by the case.
We found another under-the-radar bargain gem at Reininger Winery, where
Chuck Reininger turns out tasty wines from both Walla Walla and the
Columbia Valley. The Helix Pomatia is a bombshell of dark spicy plum,
blackberry, hints of tobacco, mocha and floral spice that is sourced
from top Columbia Valley vineyards. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Syrah and Cab Franc, it delivers a plush ride with throbbing
horsepower under the hood. Flashy enough to get noticed without
resorting to boorish behavior, this is one of our top picks for summer
parties and BBQs, especially considering its bargain price.
Cameron Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
Clearly marked by the warmth and generous fruit profile of the 2008
vintage, John Paul's latest release is already making waves with
newcomers and old fans alike. Dark in color and fruit flavor, this
begins with Cameron's trademark mild funky aromatics and a beam of
high-toned red fruit before blossoming into a richly textured mix of
ripe blackberry, tangy rhubarb and pungent spice. John has for years
made exactly the wine that the vintage gives him and this is a delicious
bottle of Pinot, even slightly decadent for Cameron. Produced from fruit
from Clos Electrique, Abbey Ridge, and Gehrts Vineyard, it has serious
breeding, and like almost all their wines, will keep getting better for
a few years to come.
Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2008
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
One of the finest Sauvignon Blanc to come out of the Loire Valley each
vintage, this new arrival somehow seems to top even our high
expectations. Brimming with complexity yet seductively subtle, the
initial burst of lemon/lime intensity gently fades mid-palate to reveal
the treasures below. Nuances of white flowers and warm grass rippling in
the breeze bring a softness to the detailed core of flinty minerality.
Both delicately built and coursing with energy, it takes the classic
Loire Valley pastoral charm to a whole new level. A chilled bottle and a
dozen oysters is a match made in heaven or savor it on its own; a
beautiful way to start a lovely summer's eve.
Rosé
Focus
With June's lousy weather hopefully now just a memory, we suggest diving
into the rosé pool with abandon. A can't-fail reminder of the season,
consider it a delicious talisman against returning clouds. Here are
several of our favorites that haven't yet sold out but will soon enough
- the best ones always go quickly.
Chateau Margui 2009 Rosé
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
Pale in color, delicately flavored yet alive with refreshing acidity and
zesty spice, this rosé from Provence is one of the region's best and an
excellent buy. Picked recently by the New York Times tasting panel as
one of their favorites (along with Peyrassol and Miraval, favorites here
as well), this combines restraint and focused power in a beguiling
manner.
Penner Ash Roséo 2009
$15.99 ($12.75 by the case)
For those of you keeping tabs on the home front, there's a range of
tasty Oregon Pinot Noir rose available but the big hit lately has been
this tasty entry. Lushly textured, crisp, and overflowing with soft
strawberry and cherry fruit and spice, this is a style of rose
irresistible to all but the most strident anti-rosé drinkers. Plus it
delivers loads of Penner Ash Pinot Noir goodness for a low price.
Small Vineyards Direct Imports
Marchetti Later Harvest Verdicchio 2009
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
This unique micro-production Italian white has developed its own cult
following here in Portland. The grapes for this tiny bottling come from
Marchetti's oldest vines (hence the limited production) and spend an
extra month on the vine - just long enough to gain richness and more
concentration, but without making it anything close to a "sweet" wine. I
feel like a shill for saying this but the 2009 seems even better than
the super popular 2008. Tasting like an inspired Alsatian blend, this
wine challenges me not to write a run-on sentence. Lush yet structured,
it is a wine of body and power but remains balanced, with a raft of
flavors suggesting baking spices (nutmeg), honeyed peach, tangerine zest
and lemon custard in a buttery pie crust. Definitely our best-selling
Italian white of all last year, this is simply fantastic for the money.
Perezzeta Erio 2008 (Tuscany)
$16.99/$13.50 by the case.
The stealth favorite red of last year's offering, when it came to
all-around deliciousness, this Super Tuscan was the hands-down winner.
The 2008 is the same blend and again is rocking good, yet a bit more
serious (in a good way). Eschewing the all-out party style of the 2007,
this strikes an appealing balance between the fruity and the traditional
Tuscan style. Darker and more meaty, the fruit flavors are nuanced with
fresh boysenberry, dried cherry and spiced plum cake. Structured yet
supple there is a fine interplay between the dense dark cedary fruit and
bursts of tangy refreshing acidity, hallmarks of the best Tuscan reds.
Palama Primitivo 2009 (Puglia)
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
When the hankering hits for one of those lusty southern Italian reds,
you could do much much worse than this. We've tasted some uninspiring
mass-produced Primitivo lately that offered little more than
one-dimensional sugary jam flavors. This is a whole different animal, a
welcome surprise considering its price is similar to the industrial
stuff. It has a lush blackberry headiness that screams Mediterranean yet
offers an elegant side, a delicate flower in a rugged landscape. Floral
perfume aromatics mix with notes of tobacco, citrus, and wild herbs
dried in the sun, and while the fruit is ripe, it remains bright and
fresh. It reminds me of those incredible (and incredibly cheap) table
wines you drink while in Italy but can never seem to get in the US.
Except this one you can.
Marchetti Montepulciano 2007 (Marche)
$11.50/$9.20 by the case.
While most Americans are familiar with the Abruzzo region, this comes
from the lesser-known Rosso Conero DOC. Past vintages have been
available but priced at around $17, they didn't fly off the shelf due to
the region's relative anonymity. Marchetti simplified the label to refer
to the widely-recognized grape varietal (Montepulciano), lowered the
price to goose it a bit and voilà: a seriously powerful wine for just
over ten bucks. Darker denser and meatier than your average
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, this offers a chewy mouthful of dark ripe plum
balanced by elegant high-toned cranberry, smoky spicy salami, and a
graham cracker note.
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August/September
2010
Owen Roe Abbot's Table 2009
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
Nine years of tickling taste buds, nine years of well-worn phrases, what
more can one say? During its ascent to become our best-selling wine year
after year, the magicians at Owen Roe have perfected the Abbot's style,
an inimitable mélange of almost a dozen grapes that dazzle the palate
and the mind. If most people threw this many varietals together it would
taste like a mess, but year after year these guys produce a paean to the
art of blending, a riot of flavors and charm that few can resist. So,
yes, this new vintage is as all should be: exactly what you hope it to
be (assuming you are a fan). The aromatics are engulfing (lavender,
violets, peppery spice), the texture sublime; again the pretty
high-toned marion- and raspberry fruit is grounded in a lake of darker
black currant with eddies of graham cracker, vanilla, and caramel. And
yes, as always upon release, it's young and shows a chewy wild side when
first opened but give it an hour (or even a day) and it becomes, yet
again, a beautiful thing.
Lorelle Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 2009
$14.50/$11.60 by the case.
We're always thrilled to offer a Pinot Noir like this: a bona fide
Willamette Valley bottling that tastes great and is under $15. If so
good, why so cheap? Lorelle is a new label from J. Albin, who after a
frustrating legal battle with a California winery over their name
decided to introduce a friend-making, let's-move-on quaffer destined
only for the Oregon market. Made from 100% estate (Laurel Vineyard)
fruit that used to go to Ponzi, it delivers all the goods we look for in
a quaffable Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: a silky pretty texture, juicy
black fruit flavors, a little spice and tangy cherry finish, all in an
elegant medium-bodied package. Great everyday Pinot, great party Pinot,
great Pinot.
Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay 2008
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
While we are certainly partial to Chardonnay from Burgundy we must
admit, this tastes amazingly not too far off. Richer than most, yes, but
would you turn down a Meursault with a few years of age on it?
This high quality however has been part of the problem; with very
limited amounts for retail, the majority of it is set aside for the
coveted yet dreadful "restaurant only" category. That said, we just
received a shipment and it is a stunning value. With mouthwatering
aromatics of lemon crème, mild butterscotch and toasted nuts, the palate
is creamy yet wonderfully restrained, and the just-ripe apple and pear
fruit leads to a dry crisp finish. A pleasant surprise, this '08 is even
better than I remember: classier, more elegant, more Burgundian, yet
with just enough of that Russian River succulence to immediately
captivate the taste buds. Limited availability.
Couroulu Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes 2007
$26.99/$21.50 by the case.
If you know the Couroulu Cuvee Classique then you can imagine how good
this is. (If you don't, you should try both.) Everything the Classique
is and more, this is denser, darker and more layered with a purity of
fruit and exquisite spiciness found in the most compelling Rhone reds.
Produced from Grenache vines planted in 1932 (!) and Syrah vines planted
in 1960 and tasting more like a $40+ Chateauneuf du Pape, this has the
stuffing to last. We drank a 2001 recently and wow! - as soon as this
arrived we all bought some. 93 points from Parker who calls it "an
absolute whopper". Only 30 cases come to Portland so get some while you
can.
Michel Juillot Mercurey Rouge 2006
$20.99/$16.80 by the case (Regularly $31)
A limited end-of-vintage red Burgundy deal, this puts a classically
styled, age-worthy Pinot in your cellar for an uncommonly low price.
Mercurey is the most serious appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise, and
the Juillot family one of the most highly respected. Like many
traditional family-run domaines, they strive for purity in their wines:
high-toned red flavors and a transparency that allows the terroir to
come through. This is drinking great now: a warmer vintage, few years in
bottle, délicieux!
The Italian Gang
Introducing four bang-for-the-buck Italians that we sniffed out at a big
July trade tasting. The two Tuscans are already aged for you and reduced
in price to boot, courtesy of a local importer's warehouse clean-up. The
white was the stand-out value, at once quintessentially Italian but
better. Finally a hearty southern Italian red that will work equally
well with summer's last grilled meats or autumn's first stews.
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2003
$38.99/$31.20 by the case.
A Portland direct-import favorite, its already low price just got lower
as the local importer pushes out the last few cases. 2003 was a warm
vintage and initially high tannins were a potential mar to the heady
fruit. Six years later, the proof is in the bottle. With tannins well
under control, this is full-bodied and intense, a voluptuous modern
style Brunello whose spicy dark fruit and underlying power show why
Montalcino is known as the king of Tuscany. Aged Brunello for under $40?
Come on down!
Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
A beautiful direct-import Chianti that got rave reviews upon release,
and what's still available is on sale and worth loading up on. Pretty
and elegant in style with pitch-perfect balance, it's irresistibly
delicious and versatile enough to drink frequently with a range of
dishes: pasta and red sauce, roast chicken, pork tenderloin, even
lighter late summer veggie dishes. Silky in texture, the crushed
raspberry and sweet black cherry fruit is joined by notes of minty spice
and chocolate, ending in a long, lingering and juicy finish. The Wine
Spectator's 90-point review lists this at $41; at $24, it's a steal.
Pieropan Soave 2008
$14.50/$11.60 by the case.
A wine that habitually soars above the sea of Italian white wine out
there, this is classic and comforting yet goes well beyond the standard
grigio. With a wiry medium-bodied frame, it shoots out notes of flowers,
pear, mild apricot and wet stone while the zesty acidity keeps this
carnival of flavors popping all over your palate. Soave is a zone that
"don't get no respect", but top producer Pieropan soldiers on. And for
that we can be thankful.
Tormaresca Neprica 2008
$9.99/$7.99 by the case.
NEro d'avola, PRimitivo and CAbernet Sauvignon add up to...this, a red
from the wilds of Puglia in southern Italy. One might guess that the sun
never actually shines here as the wine is all about the dark: black
plum, ripe blackberry, and a deep dark loamy soil note full of warm
spices. One needs the light to become the dark, and the more the light,
the more the dark; a maxim best pondered over a glass of this heady
beast.
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October 2010
Back to Basics
Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
One of the most anticipated Pinot Noir releases each year, this
remains one of the absolute best values in Oregon wine. This year's
release is bittersweet, however, as Russ Raney is moving on, having sold
the winery this past summer to his trusted "second" Erin Nuccio. So how
is this last vintage from the ancien régime? A beautiful swan
song: the plumpness of the 2009 vintage is a perfect foil for Evesham's
elegant style, and the pretty silky aspects are joined by a round,
almost plush quality. With an appealingly toothsome texture and peppy
acidity that pulls you along, this is a Pinot to be enjoyed again and
again. And at this price, that's the idea.
El Corazon Malbec Phinney Hills 2009
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
This Walla Walla micro-producer has done it again, this time with the
current local darling, Malbec. With a new better fruit source, this
second release is a big step up from the 2008. Hyper-saturated in color,
vibrant and "alive", there's lots of everything, yet all is in balance.
The lush mouthful of marionberry fruit is held together by tangy acidity
and ripe tannins as a riot of flavors ricochet across the palate on the
long finish: boysenberry, vanilla, hints of tobacco and black tea.
Murray's summation, while not printable here, speaks to the creative
energy that flows from this wine. Grab a bottle and let your mind go.
Only 90 cases produced.
Stags' Leap Winery Petite Syrah Napa Valley 2006
Regularly $40, while it lasts $23.99/$19.20 case.
Again! Yes, that's right, to help celebrate another great year, we're
reprising one of the most popular deals of the past year, this powerful
yet lascivious red from one of the grand old estates of Napa. 2006 was a
superb vintage there as a late harvest gave the wines concentration and
complexity. This bottling is among Napa's best, some would say the
definitive example of Napa Petite and typically is not widely available.
Dense and dark with ripe blackberry and deep raspberry fruit, there's
shades of cocoa, vanilla oak, and leathery spice notes embedded in the
concentrated core of fruit. We sold out quickly last time so if you
missed it, here's a second chance. Limited Availability.
Cameron Pinot Noir Gehrts Vineyard 2008
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
We tried it, we liked it, we knew it was good. We put it in a blind
tasting and it blew the doors off. Super floral with gorgeous cedary
woodsy aromatics and spicy brambly notes, this is clean and pure, with a
focused beam of tangy red cherry fruit mainlining it through a haze of
dense blacker fruit. Overall dark and structured but accessible, this
just got better and better as it opened developing a creamy texture and
layers of lovely flavors. Arguably the best example from this vineyard
yet, no fooling. Only 100 cases produced.
Owen Roe Sinister Hand 2009
$23.99/$19.20 by the case
The Hand is back and creepily sexy as usual. The '09 is 70% Grenache and
it shows: soft and voluptuous with the warm generous profile associated
with this varietal, the fruit leans to strawberry and cherry, and the
spices more baking (cinnamon, nutmeg) than savory. Notes of vanilla and
graham add to the pie/pastry vibe culminating in a lip-smacking finish.
No big surprise, this is once again decadently delicious, a wine to
swoon by.
Chave Côtes du Rhône Mon Coeur 2007
$20.99/$16.75 by the case
A side-project of the undisputed king of Hermitage in the northern
Rhône, Jean-Louis Chave, this Grenache-Syrah blend is sourced from two
top southern Rhône villages, Cairanne and Rasteau. With a master like
Chave at the wheel and a vintage like 2007 to work with, the
anticipation should already be coursing through your veins. Offering a
seriousness typical of Chave, this marries exuberant black and blue
fruit with a wealth of secondary flavors from dried flowers and orange
rind to a peppery anise-tinged mash-up of herbs and minerals.
Chateau Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Baron 2008
$36.99/$29.60 by the case
Speaking of the Rhône, one of our favorite CDP reds just landed and once
again is a beautiful wine for the money. 2008 is a more transparent
vintage than the fruit-driven 2007, a characteristic that dovetails
perfectly with the "Baron's" style. The nose offers spicy high-toned
sweet red fruit and a creamy toasty note which follows through on the
palate. Elegantly sultry, the piercing raspberry flavors turn dark and
garrigue-y mid-palate finishing with a satisfying chew. Through it all,
the bass note black fruit is set off by a fresh acid lift resulting in a
complex wine that changes remarkably as it opens.
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November 2010
Tallying the Votes for Holiday Goodness
Reverdito Barolo 2006
$20.99/$16.80 by the case.
Yes, we too laughed and said "what?" in a high-pitched voice when
presented with this unbelievable Barolo deal but happily, it's no joke.
Poured in last month's Friday night Piedmont tasting, everyone agreed,
this is the real thing. Directly imported to Portland from a small
family producer in La Morra, this is like one of those delicious
inexpensive wines that returning travelers always crow about: "the wines
in Italy were so good, and so cheap!" With classic Barolo flavors of
tobacco and smoky cherry, this is no lightweight vague Nebbiolo; chewy
and intense with fine tannins on the finish, this cries out for hearty
autumn dishes. If you're a Piedmont fan, you gotta give this a try.
Abacela Tempranillo Cuvée 2008
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
We just tasted the new vintage of this consistently popular southern
Oregon red and wow, what a big step up from what we remembered. Creamy
and lush with loads of spicy dark fruit and dusty loamy soil notes, it
seems both more deeply serious and more accessibly delicious than
before, just the kind of gustatory contradiction we like. Abacela
pioneered this varietal in the northwest, planting the first Tempranillo
vineyard in 1995. Clearly they haven't lost their touch or passion.
Lemelson Six Vineyards Pinot Noir 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
A consistently great value, this just switched to the heralded 2008
vintage (just rated a 100-point perfect vintage by the Wine Spectator)
and no big surprise, it's fantastic. Offering quintessential Oregon
Pinot Noir flavors, one of the most descriptive words to come out of our
tasting notes was "complete", not an unimportant comment given the price
range. With an extra year in bottle compared with all the 2009s in this
price range, this drinks great as soon as the cork is pulled. After the
lightly spiced floral cherry aromatics draw you in, the flavors
alternate between sweet raspberry and almost blueberry with a hint of
cocoa on the finish. Ample in body and soft yet with just enough grip,
this is a great crowd-pleasing bet for the holidays.
Wine Guerilla Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley '08
$18.99/$15 by the case
Jazz up your Thanksgiving table with a colorful label while steering the
conversation toward politics (always fun after a few drinks with family
you haven't seen lately, especially this election year) with the Wine
Guerilla. Kidding aside, the Guerilla aims to produce limited amounts of
high quality wine at great prices, like this Dry Creek bottling. Deeply
flavored with dark red fruits and dusty peppery brambly notes, it more
than delivers on its, er, campaign promises. A Tea Party favorite.
Philippe Colin Bourgogne Blanc 2007
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
After months of beta testing to great success it's time to spread the
word: this is terrific white Burgundy for the money. Philippe Colin
hails from a long lineage of white Burg makers and quality evidently
comes naturally to him since he makes it seem so effortless.
Declassified from Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet vineyards, this
tastes like an archetypal Côtes de Beaune Chardonnay. Subtle and
graceful yet confident and poised, the little pops of complexity are
deftly woven into the creamy-textured frame. A little lemon and mineral,
a hint of toast and nuttiness, a little apple; it all adds up to a lot
of wine for a little money.
30-second Alsace Recommendations
Autumn and Alsatian whites make a lovely couple. Fuller in flavor than
most whites yet still dry and "serious", the mild earth and mineral
notes they offer pair well with the season's dishes: squash soup, wild
mushrooms, bacon onion tart, roast pork and fowl (like turkey!) and
more. Under-appreciated in the States, they're often under-priced as
well. Here are two recent favorites:
Jean Sipp Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2007
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
A longtime favorite producer, this is the best Sipp Riesling we've had
in years. So lovely, so complex (dare I say cerebral), a perfect example
of how Alsatian Riesling is different from German. Dry and minerally yet
richly-textured and flavor-packed, with a long long finish.
Albert Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes '09
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
Another favorite producer whose old-vine Auxerrois is a great Alsatian
value. A mild stony earthiness mingles with surprising yet entirely
appealing caramel aromatics, while spiced poached pear and creamy lemon
dominate the palate. Medium weight, grippy, even a bit waxy, this is a
worthwhile detour off the beaten white wine path.
These 2008s just in...and soon to be gone
Some of the most highly-anticipated NW releases are happening now! With
limited production and availability, these are wines many customers
pre-order year after year, sure of their consistent high quality.
Release dates scattered throughout November. Call for details.
Thomas Pinot Noir - $49.99
Gorgeous. Very limited.
Cameron Clos Electrique and Abbey Ridge - $54.99
John Paul's best stuff, ages incredibly well. Tiny production.
Evesham Wood Cuvée J - $44.99
Russ Raney's penultimate offering from the estate vineyard.
Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon Red Willow - $69.99
A legend in the making, one to rival their DuBrul Vineyard.
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December 2010
Holiday Champagne Sale Features
H. Goutorbe Cuvée Prestige 1er Cru NV
Retail: $50 December price: $42.99
Extravagant and generous beyond expectation, importer Terry Theise
describes Goutorbe's wonderfully come-hither style succinctly: 'what is
striking is their old-fashioned generosity, they are sumptuous and full
of fruit', something that comes as a delicious surprise to many
modern-style Champagne drinkers. Both times we poured Goutorbe in the
last year it was an immediate hit. The 2002 Special Club stole the show
at last year's "high-end" tasting and this cuvée wowed in October.
Mostly Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, there's power and
muscle behind all the opulent fruit and a well-defined core of racy
acidity that keeps it vibrant and nervy. Malt and brioche, hay and
honeyed baking spice, the range of surprising flavors is a Champagne
turn-on like no other.
Claude Genet Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
Retail: $47 December price: $40.99
A shop and customer grower favorite these last few years, Genet simply
rocks. A beautiful 100% Chardonnay bottling from the chalk-laden Grand
Cru vineyards surrounding Chouilly, this strikes an irresistible balance
between minerally flinty precision and creamy buttered toast goodness.
Aromatically captivating, the chalky spice and lemon crème notes prime
the palate for the joys ahead. Tiny bubbles dance and make merry, and a
laser beam of mineral and focused acidity race through waves of richly
textured Chardonnay flavors. This captures perfectly the essence of the
Blanc de Blancs style and offers a mouthwatering lesson on the
uniqueness of Champagne's chalky soil.
Champalou Vouvray Brut NV
Retail: $28 Dec. price: $23.99
One whiff, one sip, done. That's how long we took to pull the trigger on
this Loire Valley beauty. The floral smoky peach aromatics are so
inviting and the fruit on the palate, yum! Bottled with slightly less
pressure than traditional Champagne, this offers a lush velvety pillow
of tiny bubbles and mass flavor excitement. From honeyed brioche and
tangerine flavors to the long mouthwateringly tangy finish, this has
finesse and sex appeal. 100% Chenin Blanc and 100% delicious.
Ferrari Brut Trento NV
Retail: $24 Dec. price: $18.99
A tiny sliver of Champagne's soul transplanted to the northernmost
reaches of Italy, Ferrari was founded over a century ago by a Trentino
native after studying viticulture in France. Inspired by what he learned
and drank (aren't we all?), he became the first in his high-elevation
region to plant Chardonnay and produce sparkling wine using the
Champagne method. 100 years later, Ferrari is one of Italy's most
celebrated sparklers, collecting Tre Biccheri and Best Buy awards year
after year. One glass and you will see why: comprised of 100%
Chardonnay, this has personality and pizzazz. Smooth and buttery, the
mild yeast and smoky bread dough notes form the backdrop for crisp apple
and honeyed lemon flavors before heading into a classic
Chardonnay-flavored toasty finish. Slightly brash and instantly
accessible, this stood out as an easy crowd favorite.
Delmas
Blanquette de Limoux Brut 2007
December price: $11.99
We tried to pick a new inexpensive sparkling favorite, we really tried.
But we have to be honest: tasted blind this once again completely
out-classed the competition. We wanted to mix it up a bit, trumpet some
exciting new discovery, but ultimately we want to offer you the best for
the money and this is it. With its delicate mousse and subtle precise
flavors of green apples and lemon, this seems so classy and refined, the
others in comparison seemed clunky and coarse. Although Limoux is a
stone's throw from hearty-red territory (Corbières, Minervois) in
southern France, its vineyards are a bit higher and consequently cooler,
allowing them to produce fresh and vibrant sparkling wine which has been
done here since 1531 (the locals claim Blanquette was being crafted here
long before Dom Pérignon arrived in Champagne). Made mostly from the
local favored varietal Mauzac with a bit of Chardonnay and certified
organic.
Holiday Gems
Evening Land Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
These guys are on fire. Their 2008 La Source bottling just got 96 points
in the Wine Spectator (highest Oregon Pinot Noir rating ever), the
Estate Pinot is doing brisk repeat business (the ultimate test of
customer satisfaction), and this "blue label" uncorks some of the same
magic at a very friendly price. Comprised of 100% Seven Springs Vineyard
fruit, this is serious wine for the money. The aromatics are a beautiful
mix of sweet wild green herb, orange zest and deep red bing cherry. The
flavors are textured and layered, shifting between bright black
raspberry, red plum and brambly spice. Taut in texture yet generous of
fruit, the tightrope tension and flavor-shifting keeps it interesting
glass after glass.
Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red Columbia Valley 2008
$17.50/$14 by the case.
Svelte juicy and plush, this NW blend has "holiday hit" written all over
it. Built of Cab Sauv, Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and four other varietals,
there's lots going on but it's so flipping seductive and downright sexy
you probably won't notice. #49 in this year's Wine Spectator Top 100 who
says: "Supple and open-textured, brimming with gorgeous plum and currant
character that lingers enticingly on the deftly balanced finish."
Monte Tondo Valpolicella 2008
$18.99/$15 by the case.
Small Vineyards has once again unearthed a never-been-exported gem that
tastes classically Italian and offers a wealth of fruit and interest.
Not technically Amarone or Ripasso but similar, the grapes for this
bottling are dried for one month before pressing, resulting in some of
the same heady fruit notes and chocolately dried cherry flavors that
make those styles so popular. Velvety and full-flavored with dark red
fruit, rosy aromatics and violet spice, this is superb winter wine,
hearty yet approachable, warming both body and mind. With only 150 cases
for the entire US, this probably won't be around for long.
Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon DuBrul Vineyard 2008
$69.99/$55.99 by the case.
Always a cherished bottle to find under the tree, for the big Cab lover
few wines will light up a face as quickly as DuBrul. From the iconic
photograph on the label to the last bittersweet sip it's a class act all
the way - and this brilliant new release will only burnish the legendary
reputation. With an unparalleled depth of flavor and the silkiest of
textures, the red cassis and black plum fruit is lithe and elegant, so
subtle yet so complex. And again that gossamer mouth-feel: soft yet
perfectly shaped, whispery yet commanding your attention, while the
myriad flavors sail on and on. Only 404 cases produced.
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