       |
Click on the Month you’d like to review. Please note prices may have changed from the time these wonderful wines were released, so please check with us for current pricing and availability.
|
2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 |
|||
| 2011 Jan/Feb | 2011 March | 2011 April | 2011 May |
| 2011 June | 2011 July | 2011 August/Sept | 2011 October |
| 2011 November | 2011 December | ||
January/February 2011
Yeah but these go up to ‘11
Sineann Abondante Columbia Valley 2008
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
Long-time Sineann fans know the joys to be had while indulging in the
plush fruit-driven wines of Peter Rosback. While the dizzying array of
wines he produces can be daunting, this is an excellent portal into his
fantastical world. Abondante, a term that suits his penchant for
multiple single-vineyard bottlings, is best read as a reference to the
abundance of fruit contained in all his wines. A surprisingly classy yet
sultry blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel, this offers a
nice range of spicy woodsy secondary flavors to complement the luscious
fruit. Ye olde Wine Spectator summed it up nicely in their recent
92 point review: “Lithe, polished and distinctive for its tightly wound
tobacco-accented blackberry and plum flavors, hinting at black olive as
the finish lingers nicely. Shows refinement and depth.”
Artisanal Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Adams Vineyard 2006
$20.99/$16.75 by the case.
The stealth Oregon Pinot Noir hit of December, this small-production
bottling offered shoppers a triumvirate of temptations they couldn’t
resist: a complex and generous fruit profile, an opportunity to reach
back in time and nab a 2006 vintage, plus an “entry-level” price. The
generosity of fruit is courtesy of the warm 2006 vintage while bottle
age has added complexity. But why is a 2006 still available at this
price? Well, winemaker Tom Feller has a day job, leaving little time for
sales. Despite its quality, reasonable original price ($28), and a
90-point review in the Wine Spectator, the wine couldn’t sell
itself. When a small distributor suggested dropping the price to get the
name out there, Tom agreed and a deal was born. So here we are: a
90-point scoring single vineyard 2006 vintage Oregon Pinot Noir for
twenty-one bucks. Definitely worth a try.
Jean-Pierre Gaussen Bandol 2000
$29.99/$23.99 by the case.
It’s winter, the weather is miserable. You crave the warmth of a fire,
the company of friends, the reassurance of a hearty meal. You crave a
deep and soul-satisfying wine, a Bandol perhaps; better yet, an aged
Bandol. Ah, here is one. One recent sip of this and the meal began to
take shape: Daube Provençal (a regional take on beef stew), good
crusty bread and a bottle of this. Dominated by the powerful Mourvèdre
varietal, the wines of Bandol are typically tight and unyielding when
young yet become gloriously complex and mellow when aged. This bottling,
now entering its second decade, is drinking beautifully right now. The
aromatics and flavors offer an imagination-stirring vision of the
Provençal countryside where the smoky sanguine beef bouillon and porcini
mushroom notes are joined by mildly pungent herbs and cured black
olives. The dried cherry and black currant fruit is mellow while the
texture is inviting and flowing with a satisfying tannic chew embedded
within. Very compelling wine, limited availability.
El Corazon First Crush Cabernet Franc 2009
$28.99/$23 by the case
The new vintage of this Walla Walla favorite has arrived and as usual
won’t be here for long. Micro-producer Spencer Sievers made a mere 100
cases but the little he did produce is once again rock star quality. If
you have had it before, the consistency is remarkable. If you have not
had the pleasure, here’s what we are talking about: an exquisite balance
between a high-energy nervosity and opulent fruit, all wound together
and delivered in waves of flavor across the palate before landing in a
wash of gentle tannins on the finish. Rich and velvety yet bright,
lively and aromatic, this plays all sides and plays them very well.
Chateau Gautoul Cahors 2005
$11.99/$9.60 by the case.
Another surprise hit in December, this direct-import bargain offers
authentic southern French sauvage gaminess and a mouthful of
dense fruit for a yeah-let’s-try-it price. 100% Malbec from an
appellation famous for producing impenetrable wines, this “black wine of
Cahors” is rendered more user-friendly by oak aging and five years in
bottle. Gautoul is an old estate recently taken over by the next
generation and while the quality has increased, the prices have not
(yet). After some mild funk and brawny turned-earth aromatics, the
palate is a wash of smooth fine-grained blackberry sauce draped over an
iron frame. Wild blueberry and meaty minerally notes pop in and out
before heading into a woodsy monster of a finish. A classic winter red,
perfect for that cassoulet you’ve been planning.
Podere Capaccia Riserva di Famiglia 2001
$16.99/$13.60 by the case.
While waxing poetic about the joys of aged wine, we couldn’t pass this
one up. 100% Sangiovese from the terrific 2001 vintage, this (despite
the generic label) is normally a $50 Super Tuscan from a respected
Chianti producer. Looking to unload the last of it, they slapped a new
label on the bottles and sold it to a small local importer for a song.
Still powerful after almost a decade, this has a concentrated beam of
cherry fruit surrounded by typical Tuscan flavors of smoked meats,
earthy forest floor, and mild licorice cinnamon spice notes. Serve at
your next spaghetti and meatballs party and watch your friends swell up
with pride: “a 2001 for me? You shouldn’t have!”
top
March 2011
Hey, let's put an -ly on it!
Orin Swift Machete! 2009
$41.99/$33.50 by the case.
Cult Napa Valley producer Orin Swift has a new bounty for fans to lust
after, the menacingly titled Machete, a blowout of a wine comprised of
Petite Sirah, Grenache and Syrah. With a fruit-driven intensity and
expertly controlled power similar to other Orin Swift favorites (such as
Prisoner and Papillon), there's a delectable swirl of pastry spice
aromatics to complement the luscious fruit. Brown sugar, cinnamon and
vanilla notes ride high while the wash of warm blackberry coulis and
cherry kirsch flow abundantly about your palate. Despite its richness,
there's structure and a tautness that keeps the river from flowing over.
Not much made, not much for Portland, already not much left.
Rock Horse Ranch Stable 39 Columbia Valley 2008
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Under the radar and necessarily so (with only 130 cases made), this
popular second label delivers another great value with this
Cab-dominated blend. Declassified from Natalie's Estate single vineyard
wines, this was destined for $30+ bottlings before re-routing. Rigorous
in his barrel selection for the flagship wines, Boyd Teegarden produces
the Rock Horse Ranch wines as a "let's-be-friends" intro to his winery.
This newbottling makes excellent use of a new varietal and vineyard for
Natalie's: Sangiovese from the acclaimed Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima.
Adding a smoky cherry note to the dark cassis and berry Cabernet
flavors, this older-vine Italian varietal gives the wine added
structure, dimension and a slightly more exotic feel than many NW
blends. A splash of Merlot adds depth and softness while American oak
gives it a spicy cedary vanilla aromatic punch.
Heredad de Baroja Rioja Reserva 2004
$15.99/$12.80 by the case
Sometimes we taste a wine and immediately think "newsletter", other
times customers keep buying and buying something and then we think "duh,
newsletter!". This is one of those times. Originally $21, we liked it
and brought it in. When the price dropped, sales picked up but it took a
little while before we realized "hey, this is a great deal!". And so it
is. From the superb 2004 vintage, this offers a "best of both worlds"
scenario: with six years behind it, the wine has mellowed and is
starting to show those secondary flavors so prized in older wines, yet
still has an attractive youthful muscle-y quality. Elegantly styled with
pretty, dusty red fruit flavors and woodsy spice, it is classic Rioja
without any dried-out rough notes that the term "classic Rioja"
sometimes suggests. Richer in flavor and more playful than most
"serious" older Rioja yet much more complex and interesting than an
average $16 wine, this sits perfectly in the middle.
Cédrick Bardin Sancerre 2009
$19.99/$15.99 by the case
One of the best Sancerre we have tasted in a long time and definitely
the cheapest thanks to direct import access. A long-ago shop favorite,
this hasn't been seen in Portland for years. Both citrus-ly zesty and
succulently fleshy, its voluptuous charms are immediately evident to
even the most casual wine drinker. The December 15 Wine Spectator gave
it 90 thumbs up saying: "Fresh, ripe and mouthwatering, delivering
gorgeous citrus peel, grapefruit pulp, quince and gooseberry flavors
that are woven together, backed by salted butter and mineral notes that
let the finish sail on." March may not offer the best Sancerre-drinking
weather but plan ahead; less than fifty cases made it to Portland and by
the time the weather improves this will be gone.
2009 Rhône: South & North
Domaine Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2009
$13.99/$11.20 by the case.
For those looking to sink their teeth into the 2009 Rhone vintage (and
sink they will) we present this longtime favorite. There is lots of buzz
about 2009 and how the opulence of the vintage produced eye-popping
concentration across all price levels. Since most 2009s won't arrive
until later this summer or later, this offers an early snapshot of the
vintage, and what a snapshot it is. Baby Chateauneuf du Pape isn't too
much of an exaggeration as this packs a serious punch of flavor and
intensity. The fruit is brawny yet lush, a compote of roasted cherries,
ripe blackberries and strawberry jam, and the aromatics effusive: thyme,
lavender, iris, black pepper. A young powerful wine that over-delivers,
give it some time (either open in a decanter or unopened in your cellar)
to best appreciate its magic. Now the bad news; Portland received half
its typical allocation so it won't last long.
Domaine des Hauts Châssis Crozes-Hermitage "Esquisse" 2009
$21.99/$17.60 by the case.
Normally the thought of recommending a young Northern Rhône makes my
mouth pucker, which is often exactly what happens when drinking one of
these young 100% Syrah monsters. But not this one. Younger-vine fruit,
stainless steel élevage and the warm 2009 vintage make this otherwise
traditional red surprisingly accessible. Happily however, its sense of
place is not completely obliterated and the black earth meaty funk notes
and acid backbone place it squarely in northern Rhône territory. That
said, the mid-palate is softer, the berry fruit riper and the aromatics
prettier, making this a great introduction to hallowed yet
under-appreciated region.
top
April 2011
Taste Walla Walla Faves and More
Rasa Vineyards PB Red Mountain 2008
$28.99/$23.20 by the case
One of our most exciting discoveries at the recent Taste Walla Walla
event were the wines of Rasa Vineyards. Two days prior a customer who
seemed to have her pulse on all things Walla Walla confided in us:
“don’t miss the Rasa wines, they’re so good.” Of course we took her
advice and were glad we did. Winemaker Billo Naravane founded Rasa with
his brother Pinto in 2007 but talk about busy bees. In addition to
planting a vineyard in the Walla Walla AVA, producing small batches of
Syrah, Rhone-style blends, Riesling and more, Billo also runs the
viticulture program at Walla Walla Community College.
While their goal is to make Syrah their signature varietal, we couldn’t
help being awed by this Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, and clearly
we’re not alone. Already Rasa has impressed the critics; 93 points from
the Wine Spectator for a first release suggests great things to
come: “Smooth and expressive, glowing with blueberry, plum, fresh
currant and dusky spice notes that ride easily over beautifully
modulated tannins, lingering on the gorgeous finish. Yes, Red Mountain
tannins can be tamed.” (Also check out their QED 2007, a Syrah-dominant
Rhone blend, the quality of which is almost eerie for a first wine. 94
pts. from Spectator, great reviews from others. $49.99)
Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008
$44.99/$35.99 by the case (arriving mid-April)
A beautiful Cabernet and no surprise. Winemaker John Abbot’s consistent
quality since their first vintage in 2001 has made Abeja a reference
point for the region. At a late autumn tasting, we poured the Abeja
Reserve 2007, a limited-production bottling done only in the best
vintages, and it was off the charts. Response went well beyond the “wow,
this is good”; more like people were licking the inside of their glass
to get every last drop. This 2008 showed wonderfully at the March event.
Aromatic, open-knit and elegant, the red cassis and just-ripe blackberry
fruit is balanced and pure yet offers plenty of power and intensity. A
wine of finesse and subtlety, but not so subtle that it didn’t once
again stand out in the crowd.
GC Wine Co. RED 2008
$14.50/$11.60 by the case
As for that everyday drinking red that still delivers a satisfying
Washington fruit wallop, this brand new release from John Grochau is
hard to beat for the money. Grochau’s main pursuit is Pinot Noir, a
pursuit at which he excels, but almost from the start he played the
negociant as a side gig blending lots of finished wine and offering them
at a great price. While the label and price seem playful, the juice
inside is no overblown joke. The majority of the fruit is Walla Walla
AVA, the rest from Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain; clearly
well-made and high quality, it just needed a home. John’s goal was to
make a wine that is “hard not to like” and he has certainly succeeded.
Juicy and openly succulent (as a good $15 wine should be), the zesty red
berry fruit has accents of sexy vanilla oak and a persistent Cab Franc
spiciness. Despite being an easygoing quaffer, there’s enough depth and
complexity to keep all but the most cranky happy.
Larose de Gruaud Saint-Julien 2006
$25.99/$20.80 by the case
We were at a trade tasting last week and immediately after walking in,
two sommelier buddies in a row both raved about this Left Bank Bordeaux
- and they nailed it. A second label of well-known Second-Growth Chateau
Gruaud Larose, this is a classically-styled textbook Saint-Julien at a
“steal of a deal” price. Displaying the elegance and balance that is a
hallmark here, the silky mouthfeel and smooth tannins merge seamlessly
with the pencil-lead, mineral earthiness, spicy dark boysenberry fruit,
leather and herbal notes you expect. Then impressive structure and a
complex long finish emerges from the depths, signaling how good this
wine is now and how amazing it will be with some cellar time. 60%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot..
Cabanon Augurio 2009
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
From “ancient Piedmont” (which is now part of Lombardy) comes this
captivating red, an organic blend of Bonarda, Barbera, Pinot Noir,
Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot. Plenty complex thanks to the slew of
varietals, the real joy here is its all-around friendly deliciousness.
Pure and vibrant, the jazzy crushed berry fruit runs from floral
raspberry to tangy boysenberry and the texture is soft and slippery
smooth. Spring-like in weight and personality, with a satisfying spicy
country wine chew on the finish. This would fly off the shelf if it were
labeled something recognizable such as Barbera; once enough customers
taste it, it should fly as well.
Lageder Pinot Grigio Dolomiti 2008
$15.99/$12.80 by the case
If you haven’t tried a great Northern Italian Pinot Grigio, now’s the
time. It’s the same grape as our local Pinot Gris, but in a crisper more
mineral-driven style that’s not as opulently fruity. Alois Lageder turns
out this beauty featuring expressive floral aromas and flavors running
the gamut from lemon citrus to light peach and pear. The Dolomites (part
of the Alps) are known for their limestone-rich soils, providing a
lively lift and making this wine a perfect match with all sorts of
appetizers and entrees from seafood to chicken.
top
May 2011
Short but Not Sweet
Since spring's arrival in Portland gives most everyone the attention
span of a playful kitten, we decided to play along. Here's a quick
speed-dating-esque look at recent favorites.
San Giovanni Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
A recent chance encounter with an older Tuscan red reawakened my palate
to the joys of aged Sangiovese, with its nuanced secondary flavors that
are typically missing in younger wines. This 2005 is starting to show
some of that character, and due to my recent conversion, I wanted to
proselytize before this vintage is gone. At first glance, this is a
traditionally styled Vino Nobile, full of chewy black fruit and meaty
forest floor notes. At second glance, there's much more; the tannins
have softened and elasticized giving the wine snap and length, and while
the flavors have mellowed, the range is greatly expanded. Tobacco,
leather, spiced fruitcake, dried flowers... I think I'll take home a
bottle tonight.
Chateau D'Epiré Savennières 2009
$20.99/$16.80 by the case.
This spring-inspired pick coincides nicely with Eric Asimov's recent
paean to Loire Valley Chenin Blanc in The New York Times. While they
tasted specifically Vouvray, his excitement extends to the appellation
of Savennières and beyond. These wines offer great bang for the buck
since, as Asimov comments, "chenin blanc wines offer so much pleasure
and intrigue, yet are so underappreciated." That said, if enough people
try a bottle like this, that will change. Offering exquisite aromatics
of honeyed stone fruits and floral spice, the palate is appealingly
plush and deep before finishing crisp and minerally. Versatile,
interesting and full of character, pair with spring salmon or a simple
grilled chicken and see how good these wines can be.
Vaissière Minervois 2007
$15.50/$12.40 by the case.
A standout southern French red whose quality soars above the sea of
similar wines, this was a favorite at a recent Friday night tasting and
continues to impress. A blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, the deep Mourvèdre
bass notes give it a powerful foundation while the while the Syrah fills
in the high notes. While there is plenty of earthy garrigue spice and
mildly funky wild berry fruit, there's a refinement that belies its
humble origins, a taste of wildness tamed.
Reverdito Barolo 2006 (More! - due May 9)
$22.99/$18.40 by the case
This direct-import Barolo deal was quite the hit last November and sold
out quickly. Our March reload lasted about two weeks so it's time for
Round 3. If you missed it the first (or second) time, here's another
chance. Directly imported to Portland from a small family producer in La
Morra, this is like one of those delicious inexpensive wines that
returning travelers always crow about: "the wines in Italy were so good,
and so cheap!" Chewy and intense with fine tannins and classic Barolo
flavors of tobacco and smoky cherry, this is no lightweight vague
Nebbiolo; if you're a Piedmont fan, you gotta give this a try.
Clos de Caveau Vacqueyras Fruit Sauvage 2007
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
Can't get enough of these '07 southern Rhônes - Here's a late arrival at
a great price, an unexpectedly pretty flower growing among the brambly
wilds. Aromatic, elegant and maybe even - as the label says - wispy and
evocative, this is a class act; silky and long on the palate with layers
of spice and wild berry fruit that gives it a sense of sophistication
and polish without denying its countryside heritage.
Dominique Lafon Saint Veran 2009
$34.99/$27.99 by the case
For those who know Dominique Lafon as the undisputed master of
Meursault, writing up a white Burgundy from him feels a bit superfluous.
Known for impeccable winemaking and meticulous organic farming,
Dominique seeks and achieves purity in his wines. Case in point: this
basic Saint Veran that is catapulted high above your usual bottle. A
part of his own winemaking project separate from the Domaine des Comtes
Lafon wines, this hails from 40+ year old vines in clay & limestone soil
which provide the raw materials that Dominique gently spins into liquid
gold. Like all his whites, 100% indigenous yeasts kicks off
fermentation, while minimal batonnage (stirring of the lees) and
restrained use of new oak oak allows the wine to speak for itself. We
get to enjoy a glass of wine that is smooth yet vibrant, with fresh
acidity and lively minerality that underlie creamy lemon and spice, a
hint of nuttiness, and fragrant herbal notes that add complexity.
Northwest Shorts
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009
$49.99/$39.99 by the case.
A favorite of ours (and everyone else's it seems) since its rebirth in
2006, Antica Terra has generated some of the best buzz for an Oregon
Pinot Noir in a long time. Winemaker Maggie Harrison (formerly of cult
California producer Sine Qua Non) has that rare ability to create a
multi-faceted wine that offers different experiences to different
drinkers. Big fruity Pinot fans love it, but so do those who prefer the
nuance of Burgundy. Even those who don't buy much Oregon Pinot can't
seem to resist this. The dark cherry fruit is joined by black tea, rose,
wet earth and woodspice notes and the texture is phenomenal; silky,
toothsome, even stretchy before becoming waxy and creamy on the long
finish.
Lenore Syrah Columbia Valley 2008
$14.99/$11.99 by the case.
Corvidae is a popular sub-label of Owen Roe and the pedigree shows. This
new release offers the supple long-on-the-palate texture that is a
signature of the Owen Roe wines, in a juicy fruit-driven package.
Medium-bodied with spicy oaky notes and loads of cranberry-accented
blackberry, this people-pleaser flew out the door last vintage and is
ready to please once again.
J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2009
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
A brand-new release, this consistent favorite from Jay Sommers shows the
precociousness of the 2009 vintage and offers a roller coaster ride of
flavors. The aromatics are red and tangy with a pretty grapefruit-y
citrus note, then the fruit turns darker and blacker on the palate
providing a real mouthful of flavor. The entry is soft and broad then
picks up acidity and tannin mid-palate, ending with a bright raspberry
and tobacco-tinged finish.
J. Albin Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2009
$12.50/$9.99 by the case.
For a quick grab-and-go Oregon Gris, the J. Albin is one of our recent
best bets, offering lots of flavor for little money. Marked by the warm
2009 vintage, the texture is round and fleshy, the ripe pear and
honeydew melon fruit succulent and expressive, yet overall the wine is
dry and balanced. Partial barrel-aging sur lie (on the expired
yeast) gives it a creamy mouth-feel and a winningly zesty anise note
throughout.
top
June 2011
Wines of Rapture
July 2011
Wine for the Revolution
August/September
2011
It's almost summer!
October 2011
A Bountiful Harvest of Deals
November 2011
Drink like a One %-er
Pierre Usseglio Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
December 2011
Featured Sale Wines:
René Geoffroy Expression Premier Cru Brut NV
$17.99/$14.40 by the case.
After the resounding success of the 2008 vintage (featured in November,
it sold out completely in less than two months) we were nervous about
the 2009: could it be as good? Would it be totally different? Would they
jack the price? We're happy to report: yes, no and surprisingly no.
Aside from expected vintage variation, this is on par with the 2008, no
foolin'. Even though the 2008 released in November, it was a classic '08
in that it was still a little tight. This by contrast shows the
precociousness of the '09 vintage already, even being released five
months earlier. The aromatics are very pretty and appealing in a candy
shop kitchen sort of way with cinnamon, brown sugar and candied cherry
notes. A seesaw of flavors on the palate keeps it interesting yet
balanced, from blueberry to raspberry to marionberry and back, turning
lightly smoky on the sappy finish. Once again a heck of a lot of wine
for the money.
Gatinois Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV
$31.99/$25.50 by the case (limited) Regular price $48
Have a reason to celebrate? Graduation, wedding, anniversary, sun
finally shone? If so, look no further than this sparkly closeout deal.
Gatinois is a small grower in the Champagne village of Aÿ, a village
whose vineyards are all rated Grand Cru and which are considered one of
the best sources for Pinot Noir in all of Champagne. This bottling is
all estate fruit, 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, and is a great
example of the richer beefier style that made Aÿ famous. Relatively
opulent on the palate with clear Pinot flavors of cherry, tea, and light
spice, there's plenty of minerality and and citrus-y acidity to give it
lift and focus. A beautifully-crafted crowd pleaser at its regular
price, its sale price is reason enough to celebrate.
Catena Malbec Vista Flores 2008
$16.50/$13.20 by the case
One of the prettiest wines on the Malbec shelf and without a doubt the
best value, this former "restaurant-only" bottling brings the winemaking
magic of Catena to us at a fraction of the regular price. Consistently
lauded by the press and customers alike, Catena takes the bold richness
of Malbec, gives it a gorgeous personality and texture and conjures up
the complexity and nuance often hidden in this brawny varietal. This
version is silky and soft with pure fruit flavors of cassis, blackberry
and raspberry spiked with an array of spice, tobacco and mild toasty oak
notes. Named 2010 "Year's Best Argentine Malbec" by Wine and Spirits,
this is definitely one to try.
J. Scott Roussanne Columbia Valley 2009
$17.50/$14 by the case.
Tasting this two days in a row at two different tastings (Sunday's Indie
Wine Fest and a Monday trade event), this was a wine we kept coming back
to. Flavorful, refreshing, interesting, palate-cleansing and just simply
tasty, this was clearly a wine with which to while away the afternoon,
if there just wasn't all this "work" to do. While many new 2010 whites
are bracing and almost demanding with their acidity levels, this offers
the gentler contours of both Roussanne the varietal and the 2009
vintage. Round and peachy with hints of tropical fruit, there's a zesty
citrus seam up the middle that keeps it fresh and balanced.
Apolloni Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley '09
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
Another 2009 northwest white that is totally firing on all cylinders,
this is appropriately vivacious and refreshing yet offers a succulent
burst of fruit to sink your teeth into. Modeled on the whites of
northeastern Italy where winemaker Alfredo Apolloni learned to make wine
with his family, this has inviting floral aromatics, juicy ripe pear
fruit and something more. In general, the best dry crisp whites offer
that something extra which makes them stand out, namely texture, and
this has it. Alternately waxy, roundly fruity and even grippy on the
finish, it delivers a satisfying romp on the palate, finishing dry and
snappy.
Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum Vieilles Vignes 2007
$33.99 (Limited availability)
Think you don't like Gewurz? Pair this with spicy Asian food or a
bacon-onion tart and expand your mind. One of the more glorious Alsatian
wines, its pedigree is near peerless: biodynamically-farmed old vines
from one of the great Grand Cru vineyards in a vintage the Barthelme
brothers consider their best since 1988. Completely deserving of its
regular price, a distributor switch makes the price silly. 94 points
from Tanzer and 93 from the Wine Advocate who effuses: "litchi,
rose petal, caramelized peach, milk chocolate, tonka bean, mint, and
brown spices contribute to the complexity of this creamy, voluminous
beauty that buoyantly envelops the palate and clings like a silk gown.
Expect 15-20 years of seduction." Truly a wine of rapture.
top
Chateau Bourgneuf Pomerol 2003
$27.99/$22.40 By the case. Regularly $60!
Just in time for Bastille Day, here's a chance to attack the symbolic
wall of exclusivity and privilege by drinking the aristocratic wine of
Pomerol on the cheap (and nicely aged no less!). A lost-in-the-warehouse
closeout deal, this comes from the warm (and awesome) 2003 vintage, a
vintage that is drinking great now but will continue to age. A Wine
Spectator review from March 2006 gave this 90 points noting that it
would be "best after 2010". Guess what? It's after 2010 so dive on in!
Classic right bank Bordeaux in profile, the flavors are more dark red
than black with red plum and wild berry fruit shot through with notes of
savory herb, anise, well-integrated oak and a beefy iron minerality,
courtesy of the iron-rich clay subsoil. The texture and mouth-feel are
also typical right bank, helped by the ripeness of the vintage:
full-bodied and concentrated yet open-knit, softening and pliant with
enough structure and tannin to continue aging gracefully.
Va Piano Bruno's Blend VII Columbia Valley
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
A favorite from March's Taste Walla Walla event, we poured this last
week and were reminded just how good it is. Although labeled as Bruno's
Blend, this could be considered simply Cabernet Sauvignon; it's 80% Cab,
whereas only 75% of a given varietal is necessary to be labeled as that
varietal. Produced in honor of Father Bruno Segatta, a mentor of
winemaker Justin Wylie, a portion of the proceeds helps to fund Father
Bruno's charities. Labeled numerically, rather than vintage specific,
the varietal composition changes with each bottling and good ol' #7 may
be the best "blend" yet. Tasting every bit like Cab, this is dark and
concentrated, full of blackberry and black currant fruit with mild smoky
tobacco notes, firm yet smoothly textured with a satisfying chew on the
finish. With Va Piano's Columbia Valley Cabernet clocking in at nearly
$45, this continues to be a great Walla Walla bargain.
Belle Pente Pinot Noir Belle Pente Vineyard 2008
$34.99/$27.99 by the case.
One of our favorites from Memorial Day release weekend, this is a
gorgeous example of why 2008 is such a heralded vintage. Depth and
balance are the building blocks of a great wine whether red or white,
light or heavy - and the union here between Brian O'Donnell's elegant
winemaking and the power of 2008 has created a beautiful marriage. Belle
Pente won much-deserved praise in the New York Times for their basic
2008 Willamette Valley bottling; amazingly this takes the quality to a
whole new level. Such a lovely texture, velvety and caressing, and the
whole of the wine is both intense and demure at the same time.
Delicately spicy with a wash of red fruit with blue sneaking in, there's
clearly plenty more lurking below. I recently drank a 1999 Belle Pente
Murto and it was truly spectacular. I can't wait to drink one of these
in ten years.
Gabriel d'Ardhuy Bourgogne Rouge 2009
$17.99/$14.40 by the case
Here's a role reversal: a red Burgundy that clocks in at half the price
of our featured Oregon Pinot and is damn good to boot. Delivering early
on the 2009 vintage hype, this is the best under $20 red burg we have
had in a loooonng time. Marked by the vintage but also by the producer
(Ardhuy makes muscular Corton), this is surprisingly dark and rich, with
plenty of black cherry and boysenberry fruit and a spicy licorice-tinged
finish. Perfectly fleshed out and nicely balanced, this delivers much of
what Burgundy should at an unbelievable price.
Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Rosé 2010
$16.99/$13.60 by the case
While we're McLovin' plenty of 2010 Provençal rosé (Margui [in magnum
too!], Les Domaniers d'Ott, Mas Sainte Berthe), this favorite from years
past once again stands out. With Cabernet Sauvignon making up 45% of the
final blend, this has an added deep red cassis richness that brings
excitement to the swirl of otherwise traditional Provençal flavors. Pale
salmon in color with spicy red fruit aromatics, the flavors are fresh
and long, with limestone minerality and citrus rind on the dry finish.
Bargemone is considered a star of the appellation and not much typically
makes it to Portland. We're thrilled to have it.
Walter Scott Deux Blancs Willamette Valley 2010
$13.99/$11.20 by the case
A favorite the last two years and never enough of it, the 2010 goes 90%
pinot blanc and 10% gris on us and amps up the tang! Like biting into a
just-ripe Asian pear pulled from a bag of lemons, this is racy and
bright with spicy overtones and a grippy grapeskin finish. Sounds
refreshing, doesn't it?
Small Vineyards Italians
Poderi Elia Barbera d'Asti 2008
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
Playing to the tension between the so-called modern and traditional
styles, this offers characteristics of both without ever fully crossing
the line. Elia's wines are rich and luscious in texture with soft
rounded tannins (modern), yet the purity of the fruit is never
compromised with overt oakiness or over-ripe flavors (traditional).
These vines are 90 years old, a rarity for a $17 wine, and the intensity
of the fruit is beautifully showcased. From the bright cranberry and
cocoa spice aromatics to the deep dark cherry flavors on the palate to
the long long creamy finish, this is both a serious wine and seriously
delicious.
Palama Arcangelo Primitivo 2010
$13.50/$10.80 by the case
This was a huge hit last year and the 2010 seemed to me even better.
2009 vintage comments give a good sense of the wine except the 2010 has
brighter tangier red plum fruit that gives it an irresistible
lip-smacking quality. From last year: it has a lush blackberry headiness
that screams Mediterranean yet offers an elegant side, a delicate flower
in a rugged landscape. Floral perfume aromatics mix with notes of
tobacco, citrus, and wild herbs dried in the sun, and while the fruit is
ripe, it remains bright and fresh.
Marchetti "Later Harvest" Verdicchio 2010
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
The 2010 vintage of this cult favorite was startlingly good. Tasting
even more like an inspired Alsatian blend than the 2009, my adjective
cup runneth over. Richly textured and packed with flavor, the aromatics
and flavors are a dizzying blend of nutmeg-y baking spices, honeyed
pear, ripe melon and tangerine. With a taut structure and balancing
acidity, the flavors ricochet about the palate before heading into a
long creamy finish. Such a cool wine for the money.
Perezzeta Erio 2009
$16.99/$13.50 by the case
A big-bang-for-the-buck Super Tuscan from this SV stalwart, the 2009
Erio makes the 2008 look like Kool-Aid; and the 2008 was really good
wine. Denser, darker, and way more serious, this is a crazy lot of wine
for the money. Like all of Perezzeta's wines, it strikes an appealing
balance between the modern and the traditional Tuscan style, only with
more power and confidence. Very full-flavored with loads of ripe black
plum and dried cherry fruit, all shot through with meaty spice, briary
bramble notes and a swirl of refreshingly tangy acidity., Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.
top
El Corazon JV 2009 (Duct Tape Label)
$27.99/$22.40 by the case.
Spencer has done it again, sneaked in from seemingly nowhere another
tiny-production bottling of amazing wine. Not one to rest on his laurels
but not cocky enough to start producing ten different varietals all at
once, he is taking time to explore, experiment and basically play. We,
the lucky parents, get to enjoy what comes out of the romper room at the
end of the day. JV, or the Duct Tape label, is a blend of Malbec, Cab
Franc, and Carmenere, three varietals Spencer produces individually and
three varietals that actually work quite well together. Luscious and
evocative, he totally nailed the texture: super smooth and taffy-like,
it's a canvas stretched tight and long where the flavors explode in a
riot of color. Sweet red berry fruit collides with blue before sliding
into black, with layers of bramble, smoke and savory herb, all covered
in a dusting of cocoa powder. Inky dark, very aromatic, lots of fun. A
whopping 70 cases made.
Dom. Boisson Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2009
$20.99/ $16.80 by the case.
Offered on pre-arrival in the spring and finally here, this wonderfully
displays the power and depth of the 2009 vintage at a load-up-the-cellar
price. A big step up from their basic Côtes du Rhône and $10 less than
their special Exigence bottling, the Cairanne villages once again hits
the sweet spot by delivering excellent quality for a very reasonable
price. The ripe blackberry fruit is dark and deep yet inviting with an
appealing sideshow of baking spice, graham cracker and licorice lavender
aromatics. Decant for twenty minutes and let its creamy open-knit
texture provide immediate drinking pleasure now or load up on a few and
enjoy for years to come.
Matrot Bourgogne Blanc 2008
$17.50/$14 by the case.
While everyone is très excited about 2009 Burgundy, the open secret is
thus: 2008 is an awesome white vintage, the best in (blank) years,
depending who you ask. As noted before, typically the wines that show
the most improvement in the best vintages are also the least expensive,
something we were more than happy to note in this wine. Matrot is based
in Meursault and this offers shades of that famous village's personality
and richness without the Meursault price tag. Medium-bodied and ready to
go with hints of butterscotch, the fruit runs apple and pear, its bright
lively acidity coursing through the creamy texture, finishing with a dry
stony snap.
Sinnean Pinot Noir Oregon 2007
$17.99/$14.40 by the case (regularly $30)
They're running low and need the room so hello deal! Despite some
maligning of the 2007 vintage upon release, many are drinking
beautifully now, displaying a lithe and sensual style of Pinot Noir
-especially when compared with the structured 08s and fruit-driven 09s.
The crux of the biscuit here is nuance and this has plenty. It smells
like Pinot Noir and much more: sarsaparilla, cherry cola, black tea, a
potpourri of dried flowers and a persistent spiciness. Long and smooth
on the palate, the black plum fruit is delicate and open, finishing with
a mild raspberry tang. Heck of a nice wine for eighteen bucks.
Summertime Partying, Austrian Style!
Hugo Gruner Veltliner 2010
$12.50/$10 case
Hugo Rosé Sparkling 2010
$12.99/$10.40 case
"Fun" is a relative word, especially when used to describe wine, but
that's what comes to mind here, especially the pink bubbly. Made in a
jazzy, drink-now-because-tomorrow-may-never-come style, they're a great
high summer pick when many of us are on autopilot: interesting and off
the beaten path yet accessible, adorned with festive labels and most
importantly, tasty and cheap.
A side project of Markus Huber from Austria's Traisental region, Hugo is
described by the importer as quasi co-op estate bottled production; the
fruit comes from myriad individually owned vineyards where Huber has
complete control of farming and production, making the quality much
higher than many second labels. The Gruner is a noticeable step up from
your typical 1Liter version, delivering cascades of white fruit and mild
herb flavor in a lively yet roundly-textured package. The Rosé Sparkling
is a gas, a blend of Pinot Noir and Zweigelt offering seductive cherry
and strawberry fruit balanced by zippy acidity and of course, lots of
tiny bubbles.
Temperamento Bobal 2008
$13.50/$10.80 by the case
Now for a "fun" red. Bo-ball is a rarely seen Spanish varietal that can
offer the flavor intensity of Syrah or Mourvedre with a lighter-bodied
frame, perfect for warmer weather. Amazingly, the fruit for this
bottling comes from eighty year old vines giving the wine flavor
concentration despite its airiness. The aromatics are so dark, spicy and
smoky that the gossamer palate comes as a surprise, but the
mouthwatering flavors of a black cherry pie in a graham cracker crust
are hard to resist.
Big Scores,Limited Availability
Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006
$48.99/$44 by the 6-pack. 6 bottle limit, arrives September.
2006 is a tremendous vintage for Tuscany and Montalcino in particular.
While there are great reviews for many Brunello, this bottling received
a whopping 96 points from the Wine Spectator yet still clocks in
under $50, no small feat for such quality. "Licorice, sweet spices,
toast, smoke and sanguine aromas and flavors envelop a kernel of
raspberry in this intense, extroverted red, which is complex, focused
and structured, with an expansive finish. There's fine potential, but
needs time. Best from 2014 through 2027."
Dunham Syrah Columbia Valley 2007
$20.99/$18.90 by the 6-pack. 6 bottle limit.
Regularly $28 and worth it, the winery lowered the price to move the
last of the 2006 and kept it lower for the roll-out of 2007. As they
say, timing is everything: a week after the '07 released, the Wine
Spectator gave it 93 points and it evaporated. Gorgeous wine at $28,
a steal at $21. "Supple, inviting and seductive, with ripe plum, currant
and raspberry flavors mingling effectively against polished tannins,
getting a lift from refined acidity. This has depth and grace. Drink now
through 2017."
top
Instead of writing a September newsletter, we've been tasting, tasting,
tasting and have uncovered all kinds of crazy deals: a jaw-dropping
price for aged Châteauneuf du Pape, a luscious California red blend
bargain, lower prices on a favorite French sparkler, a Piedmont standby
and more. Hellooo Rocktober!
Reg. $42, while it lasts $26.99/$21.60 by the case.
A blast from the past at a stunningly low price, here's a chance to
drink like a Pope, treating yourself to the grandeur of southern Rhône's
most prestigious appellation at a price similar to some basic
Côtes-du-Rhône. From the highly-rated 2005 vintage and aged to near
perfection, the past five years of slumber have mostly peeled away the
curtain of primary fruit flavors, revealing a wealth of secondary
flavors: lots of exotic spice, roasted coffee, woodsy notes, cigar box,
white pepper and plum pie. After fifteen minutes, this opens up and gets
so pretty: a creamy silky mouthfeel with a vein of fine-grained tannins
coursing underneath. The magic of Châteauneuf resides in its marriage of
power and finesse, rustic flavors tamed into elegance. When drunk young,
it is usually the power that impresses, while elegance only comes with
age. This still has power but the page is turning, and the next one is
all about refined grace.
Sorcerer Cabernet Blend 2008
$18.99/$15.20 by the case. Regular price $30
You've sat at the Abbot's Table, you've been held captive by the
Prisoner, now its time to revel in the magic of the Sorcerer. A
sommelier-driven project from the California arm of Evening Land
Vineyards, this bottling was designed for some of the nation's best wine
lists. Project over, they're happy to blow out the remaining stock. A
lusty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah and Petit Verdot, it
has masses of black berry fruit and piercing red cassis surrounded by a
fog of smoky oaky notes, with plenty of structure to hold it all
together. Saturated with flavor and voluptuous in texture, this tastes
like an expensive Napa blend at a fraction of the cost.
Walter Scott Pinot Noir La Combe Verte Willamette Valley 2010
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
The first few releases of 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir are starting to roll
out and wow, there are going to be some beautiful wines: hopefully
plenty more like this one. Bright lively and pure with gorgeous
aromatics that go on and on, the cherry fruit starts red and high-toned
turning darker mid-palate and finishing lightly spicy and clean with
just a kiss of tannins. A classic Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (in our
minds anyway) and no surprise given its components: the fruit came from
five different vineyards (all of which are 25 years or older), four
different AVAs (Yamhill-Carlton, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity, and Chehalem
Mountains), and the yeast that got the ball rolling is 100% homegrown
(indigenous). Fresh, youthful and alluring, this is Pinot at its
prettiest.
Quenard Savoie Brut NV
$18.99/$15.20 by the case. Reg. $26
A Kermit Lynch import, this delicious and flavor-packed French sparkler
was the surprise hit at a Friday night tasting last year and became a
shop favorite. Now moving from one distributor to another, this
short-lived deal makes it without a doubt the most exciting under-$20
sparkler in the shop. The nose alone is worth the money, expressive and
inviting with lemon fennel floral notes while the palate takes off from
there: yeasty toasted brioche with a whiff of marzipan. The mousse is
nice and creamy, carrying all those flavors, yet turns clean and
minerally on the finish before coyly ending with a salted caramel kiss.
Vietti Barbera d'Asti 2009
$15.99/$12.75 by the case
A consistent Piedmont favorite, this 2009 is remarkable for its
chameleon-like mutability and 2-wines-in-1 personality. When we first
pulled the cork, it was burly dark and minerally. But when we came back
to it a few hours later, it had transformed into a beautiful princess of
a wine: pretty floral rosy aromatics lead to voluptuous pillow of red
cherry fruit and zesty spice. Once it settles down, it's long on the
palate and nicely balanced with a wonderfully lilting finish for such a
rich wine. If you like it dark and burly, open and drink. If you prefer
it prettier, decant for a while. Either way, you've got a great bottle
of Barbera.
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2010
$12.99/$10.40 by the case
We're thrilled that the wines of Louis/Dressner Selections are back in
town after a year-long hiatus. Mostly French, it's an inspired
collection of artisan producers- small production, non-interventionist,
mostly organic- whose wines offer a true representation of their
appellation for extremely reasonable prices. This old Loire favorite is
a perfect example of the portfolio and the 2010 vintage positively
sings. A big step up from the $10 zippy versions, this pops with a
biscuity bread dough richness (thanks to lees aging right until
bottling) sprinkled with a briny sea spray saline note, flavors that
hang on the palate before finishing dry and lip-smacking. Oyster season,
crab season, whatever the reason, this is compelling wine that tastes of
somewhere.
top
Regularly $52, while it lasts $26.99/21.60 by the case.
Another insane Châteauneuf deal? Really? Yes, the bargains from importer
Alain Junguenet rolled into October allowing us to land one more beauty.
One of the appellation's top producers (both 2007 reserve bottlings
merited 100-point scores from Parker), Usseglio's style captures the
finesse of Burgundy while retaining the full-throated lustiness of the
southern Rhône. 2004 was a classic vintage and we pulled a cork with
anticipation. The first ten minutes brought mellow dark fruit, bitter
chocolate, anise and a medium-bodied smooth texture. After taking the
bottle home, I poured another glass and wow, was this the same wine? It
had completely transformed and come alive: a stew of roasted red fruits,
peppery spice, citrus rind, cigar box aromas and more burst from the
glass. The texture was muscular yet silky before turning mildly chewy on
the finish. Each subsequent sip offered a different view but always
classic Châteauneuf flavors. It was a delicious reminder why the Pape is
king of the southern Rhône: powerful, heady and persistent yet complex,
regal and refined. I'll say it again, what an incredible bottle of
beautifully aged wine at this price.
Daou Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2006
$19.99/$15.99 by the case. Regular price $36
Another end-of-vintage deal to sink your teeth into, this is not your
typical $20 California Cab. Proudly displaying its Paso Robles
provenance it pours forth the red fruit flavors in waves of sappy tangy
goodness: crushed raspberries, cassis, spicy red licorice and cherry
cola dominate while darker fruit flavors and whiffs of pure maple syrup
surface the longer it is open. After the initial bum-rush of fruit,
there is plenty of structure and depth lurking below and its elastic
texture takes the palate from sappy to chewy to soft and back again -
always a fun ride.
Guild Red Lot #3 (Wa/Or)
$13.50/$10.80 by the case.
In a very Portland-spirit of cooperation, local winemakers John Grochau,
Vincent Fritzsche and Anne Hubatch have joined forces to great effect.
Collectively known as Guild Winemakers, they are breaking new ground
with creative varietal blends, mixed vintages, "bottling" in keg (for
restaurants) and actually offering cool Oregon wine for under $15. Their
Red #3 (FDA-approved, don't worry) is a Rhone blend with a hefty dose of
Counoise and it shows (Counoise typically appears in the single digit
percentages). Dark and plush there's a deep vein of blue/boysenberry
fruit that is a great counterpoint to the blacker Syrah notes.
Concentrated and chewy yet balanced by light vanilla oak notes and
rosemary spice, this is a hip Turkey Day crowd-pleaser: local,
inexpensive, cool label, and tasty!
Elk Cove Pinot Noir La Sirene 2009
$14.99/$11.99 by the case
The 2009 Oregon vintage was a gift that keeps on giving. A large crop of
healthy ripe grapes has already given much drinking pleasure but the
hits keep on coming. La Sirene is an occasional second label from Elk
Cove that isn't made every vintage, but when they do it tends to be
worth it. Although produced in a juicy easy-going style, there is an
elegance and quality factor here that belies its price tag. With a good
portion of the raw materials coming from younger vines in the Estate
vineyard, it actually tastes like an Elk Cove Pinot with a classic
northern Willamette personality: all bright fresh cherries, a silky
pretty mouth-feel and plenty of aromatic spice. $15 Willamette Valley
Pinot Noir is rare, a good one like this is rarer still.
Kees-Kiernen Riesling (Mosel) 2008
$18.99/$15 by the case
This captivating autumn white, whose surprising quality hides behind a
simple white label, is just plain delicious, like a lemonade on a hot
day. Sure there are many wonderful German Riesling but very few recently
as good as this under $20. During a recent Ewald visit we tasted a
handful of good Rieslings, but this... it somehow made the others seem
one-dimensional (except for the Kees-Kieren Spatlese 2006 which was
awesome but that's another story). Not sweet but with just enough soft
pear/citrus fruit to rile the palate, there's also an autumnal yeasty
spice note that adds depth and pairs wonderfully with curries or fall
dishes (squash, mushroom, onions). Full of flavor yet superbly balanced
and almost delicate, if you're Riesling-curious this is one to try.
Centzone Frappato Sicilia 2009
$13.50/$10.80 case. Was $18, reduced for holiday fun!
Not an Italian-inspired Muppet character but a native red varietal from
Sicily, and an extremely fine one at that. We fell in love with it this
summer and wanted to write it up but it sold out too quickly. Luckily
it's back just in time to be a jazzy, who-brought-the-coolest-wine
option for Thanksgiving (or forget the bragging rights and just drink
it). Despite coming from a generally hot climate, Frappato is almost
always light to medium-bodied, highly aromatic, and possesses amazingly
fresh acidity. Bursting with so much cranberry, candied orange, floral
spice and nutmeg notes that you'll wonder how you ever made it through
the holidays without it, here's your chance to not make that mistake
again. Buon appetito!
Score Alert
Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah 2009
$23.99/$19.20 by the case.
It's no secret that Owen Roe makes big-bang-for-the-buck wines but when
the Wine Spectator gives 93 points to their $24 Syrah that not-secret is
broadcast far and wide. Result? Although this wasn't released that long
ago, it will be sold out soon. Here's the Spectator's take:
"Supple and round, this red is layered with plum, currant, sassafras,
cream and spice flavors that keep sailing through the long, vivid
finish. This has style and grace to go with its undeniable power. Drink
now through 2018."
top
Retail: $60 December price: $44.99
"Sensually pleasurable" as importer Terry Theise sees it and we couldn't
agree more. A rich sumptuous style of Champagne from the pinot-dominated
village of Cumières, this completely won us over this summer when
Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy visited the shop on his way to IPNC. Captivated
by its combination of bass-note richness, lusciously creamy texture and
detailed complexity, we've been eagerly anticipating its return ever
since. Although dominated by red varietals (41% Pinot Noir, 36%
Meunier), this is surprisingly nimble and layered, with warm spiced
apple aromatics turning tangy and mouthwatering before finishing with a
chalky minerally pop. Long on the palate, the different flavors and
textures pull this way and that, offering a slightly different view with
each sip, every one as gorgeous as the next.
Paul Goerg Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
Retail: $49 December price: $41.99
An exquisitely filigreed Champagne from the chalky Cote des Blancs, this
is a spirited counterpoint to the heady style of Geoffroy, offering the
elegance and sophistication of a Blanc de Blancs while keeping a
hedonistic party-time vibe alive. There's a lot of fun to be had with
such a split personality - classy enough to sip at a fine Paris
three-star restaurant, but flat-out delicious enough to quaff sitting on
the banks of the Seine. A study in controlled intensity, the buttery pie
crust brioche and red apple flavors ride on a beam of lemony tangerine
raciness, while the soft delicate bubbles carry the wealth of flavors to
every corner of your mouth. Reputedly a favorite of famed Chef Alain
Ducasse and other Monaco glitterati, this should become one of yours as
well.
Domaine Carneros Brut 2006
Retail: $26 December price: $22.99
Sporting a 91 point review in the Wine Spectator, who described
it as "festive and vibrant", this California bubbly was as easy to pick
as it is to drink. Comprised of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown in the
vineyards surrounding the winery in Carneros, this showcases the jazzy
easy-going Cali style while retaining a sense of French elegance
bestowed by its owner, Taittinger. Tropical fruit aromatics lead to
buttered toast and lemon crème, with hints of red fruits rounding out
the finish. Sappy and flavorful, it's easy to taste why this is one of
California's leading sparkling producers.
Jaillance Cuvée de l'Abbaye Crémant de Bordeaux Brut NV
Retail: $18 December price: $14.50
Here's an excitingly uncommon sparkler to add to the holiday mix, a 100%
Semillon cuvée from all of places, Bordeaux. Reminiscent of some of our
favorite Loire Valley Chenin Blanc bubblies, this offers a similar
flavor profile and personality at a terrific price. Clean and bright
with an appealingly soft honeyed texture, the flavors are mellow and
well-integrated; like a good sauce, everything is complementary and no
one particular flavor dominates. The ripe apple fruitiness is balanced
by undertones of lemony acidity which keep the mouth-feel juicy yet
perky, while flashes of mild licorice and anise leave a scattered trail
from the first aromas to the lilting finish.
+ & + Cava Brut Seleccion NV
December price: $9.99
In our blind taste-off we were down to this: a zippy citrusy racehorse
of a sparkler and its stylistic opposite, a boisterous mouthful of
caramel and cognac. Both had its fans but as we re-tasted, Señor
Boisterous started to fall apart like a fancy-looking toy that breaks
the first time you play with it, while this one kept getting better and
better. From a family estate that specializes in Cava, you can tell that
care went into its making, even at this price. A blend of the
traditional Spanish varietals used for sparkling (Parellada, Xarello,
and Macabeo), this offers a refinement more often found in more
expensive bubblies without sacrificing flavor pizzazz. Creamy and
balanced, with fresh lime and nectarine notes and a sweet-tart
playfulness, this is classy fizz for the dough.
Holiday Gems
Reverdito Barolo 2007
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
The new vintage of last winter's popular Barolo deal has arrived just in
time for holiday gifting or hunkering down with a rich stew while
miserable weather rages outside. 2007 was another very successful
vintage in Piedmont, producing wines of structure and depth, which are
apparent in this wine's increased muscle and power. The black cherry
fruit is grippy and deep, studded with classic notes of red licorice,
tar, roses and leather. The Piedmontese like to say that Barolo is "the
king of wines, the wine of kings"; at this price you too can afford to
drink (or gift) like a king.
Januik Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008
$19.99/$15.99 by the case.
The wines of Mike Januik are under-the-radar favorites around here but
with a recent spate of high scores, the buzz is spreading. His simple
label reflects his unflashy philosophy: high-quality fruit and attention
to detail in the winery. The 2008s, collectively, are a spectacular lot
and this entry-level red is a great place to start; stylistically on par
with the others, it tastes more expensive than it really is. A recent
90-point review in the Wine Spectator sums it up nicely: "Dense
and chewy, with layers of raspberry, cherry, mineral and spice flavors,
finishing with pear peel tannins. Shows unexpected depth on the finish.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc."
Belle Pente Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2009
$24.99/$19.99 by the case.
We are fortunate to have many good Oregon Pinot to choose from but when
we re-tasted this recently we thought: wow, what a really nice Pinot for
the money. Classic Willamette Valley yet with a personality all its own,
it has so much going on but holds it all together beautifully. Intense
aromatics of smoky red fruit turn gentle on the palate and the texture
is teasingly al dente and taffy-like. Dried cranberry, strawberry jam, a
forest floor spiciness and lots more, it's full-flavored yet sprightly,
complex yet unassuming. Sounds like someone I'd like to get to know.
La Parde de Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2000
$49.99/$39.99 case. Limited availability.
A special bottle to grace your Christmas dinner table (or otherwise),
this world-class Bordeaux from the turn of the century is in the prime
of its life and drinking beautifully. The second wine of classified
growth Haut Bailly, this shows the sophistication and hyper-aromatic
complexity prized in aged Bordeaux and this gravelly appellation in
particular. Very elegant and detailed, the mellow black fruit heads to
red mid-palate with a mild orange zest lift on the finish. Still
powerful and deep with fine-grained tannins, this has "special occasion"
written all over it.
|
|
